My continuing series of great places to surf on the west coast.
Extremely crowded, absolutely no ettiquette. Be prepared to be dropped in on 10 million times. You can bring any board here… although the 1st point is the most forgiving of the breaks and I prefer to call it the “kiddie pool.” The real breaks here are 3rd point and 2nd point. It’s a faster take off, and can get sectiony. Best if you know how to pump your board.
Here you might actually roll up with five dudes and techno. Not a secret spot, nor an intensely-regulated locals spot, but there are a variety of ways in which to take one for the team at Malibu. It gets extremely crowded and with sometimes long lulls between waves. There’s certainly a local pecking order in the lineup, and a lot of testosterone as well. Set waves invariably catch the kooks on the inside, with multiple boards tombstoning and otherwise just obstacles bobbing about as you catch your wave. Collisions, heated exchanges, and the occasional fist does let fly. Desperation, frustration, darkness… but then that rare set outside and you’re in position! Keeps us all coming back