The Ocean Was My Temple

I lived to dive into your waters
To damage your canvas with my fins
To paint around your edges
To feel you push me around playfully,
trying to wrestle me with force
To ride the energy that emanates from your hands
To dissect your sections

Chasing you as you unfurled another amazing wave that comes just once to crash onto your shores
Sometimes you wrapped me in a watery cocoon and then spat me out and said ”come and play upon my shoulders“

”Look at my lip, then go and slice through it and I will re-make it again with only water. What else do I need?”
The Ocean Was My Temple
And I worshiped at her feet, in awe and reverence

I lived to feel the Rush
The Speed
The Power
The Awe
The Ocean Was My Temple
And my God

The Ocean Was My Temple

reflector

Joined January 2008

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Artist's Description

Memories of a lifestyle and an obsession that I had years ago. Times change and I can’t believe that I moved on, but I did. This poem is written & delivered in a way that will hopefully enable a non-surfer to understand the act and thrill of riding a surfboard. When I was a mad keen surfer (from the late 1970’s to the early 1990’s) I would never have used some of the terminology or expressions that I’ve chosen in writing this poem. Surfing isn’t about being formal. It’s about being free….

However, in the last month or so my addiction to surfing and the beach lifestyle is taking hold of me again. I’m starting to get keen & very determined to surf more and regain my previous skills. Then I want go beyond that level of surfing using all of the motivation that comes from seeing how far the sport has evolved since the early 1990’s and wanting to emulate the surfing of the younger crew who have pushed the outer limits of surfing performance.

I traveled to many parts of New South Wales and Queensland to surf some incredible surf breaks/spots that all had their own unique set-ups and types of waves. But Newcastle is my home town and the place where I surfed most of the time.

There is a photo that accompanies this poem called Carving It Up

Featured in –
All Things Poetic, Artistic, Philosophical – Saturday 12/09/2009. Thanks to Suzanne German for choosing to feature my work.
You’re Accepted – Sunday 13/09/2009. Thanks to Nancy and Lisa for the feature
Nautical – Waves Of Joy – Wednesday 19/03/2014

Comments are very welcome ! Feedback is a great teacher for all of us.

Artwork Comments

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