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495 creative works found
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ISO200 / f/8 / 5.0sec exposure / R72 Filter / Shutter Release / Broken Tripod / / Processed in The Lightroom and Photoshop Elements 0.4 / Location: Tumut, NSW, Australia. / My Husband’s Great Grandparents Homestead / / I wanted this one to have an “old’ feel to it, considering the home was built in the 1920’s.
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Fine Art photography. / Photo manipulation. / By Gina Signore / Dahlia House Studios. / Michigan Autumn Road.
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I used to Live in a World where...
by Brett FosterI used to live in a world that / Prized courtship / And romance. / Now dating is on speed.
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No time ? no problem ! this shirt is for you
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I know this is a little different for me but flowers were my first love… ..::Stock Photo Credit::.. / Flower – my own / Butteflies If you like this, please check out: / / /
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May I use your image
by Cliff vestergaardThere are times when I ask people if I can use their images for my art work. How it works for me and the person I am collaborating with …
There are times when I ask people if I can use their images for my art work. How it works for me and the person I am collaborating with is that once I have finished my work with their image I email it back to them in high res and ask them to post it on RedBubbe for 50% mark up as well as I do the same, so that myself or the other person own the art equally and we both have a chance to make a profit of the finished piece. If you were someone who is willing to let me use any of your images , feel free to comment here and let me know.
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TIP: A very useful colour adjustment tip
by Alan RodmellI am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to s…
I am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to share this one with you. Regarding Hue/Saturation. When you overdo this on an adjustment layer in your photos your detail is lost and it looks really blocky. Sometimes you just can’t get the saturation adjustments you need. Here’s how its done – Thank you to Chris Orwig for this one. 1) Open you image and convert it to LAB colour using: Image – Mode – Lab Colour 2) Create a curves adjustment layer 3) In the Curves dialog box ALT-click the grid to get a more detailed display 4) Go to the a – channel 5) Pull the black slider on the bottom of the grid into the right just one grid line (in this example although you can play!) 6) Pull the white slider opposite into the left by the same one grid line 7) Switch to the b channel and repeat. 8) Check out your image. This method actually increases saturation in tones you couldn’t even see that you had. Its excellent for autumn leaves or rivers and waterfalls. 9) When your done exit Curves dialog and convert your image back to RGB (select to Flatten in the pop up prompt) 10) Your all done. This is by far the best tip I’ve discovered so far. I tried it out of interest on a shot from this afternoon and it brought out lovely greens in Autumn leaves and a lovely hazy blue on water and waterfalls. Try it – I think you will like it! :D
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Title invented by Ms Vowell.
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When our mind becomes alight.
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Recently killed off by climate change, the Howardsaurus once roamed the earth for millions of years. See more and buy the book at 101 Uses for a John Howard. Would make a mighty fine Christmas card for those cheered by recent electoral results.
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The Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. This image is not edited. / Yosemite
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loved the reflections from these, it was so still and i thought this looked good, i think i’m having a river day !!!!!!
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As a once psychology major, I was intrigued by Freud’s theory on the id and ego of the human psyche. It has been many years since those classes so my words may be somewhat off. But this piece is a self representation (aren’t they all?) of myself and how the “id” and “ego” play in our life decisions. We all seek pleasure and that constant feeling of euphoria, and our “id”’s only goal is to achieve those feelings without worry or care about the consequences of such actions. It is our “ego” that keeps the “id” in line, allowing us to think before we act, and to be able to foresee what may come of this pleasure seeking. It is a constant battle that wages on beneath our skin and sometimes the “id” overcomes. Some choose to live only by the “id”s bidding and never realize the destruction they leave behind when seeking their pleasures. I have been through that lifestyle once, and as much as I enjoyed such pleasures in bountiful amounts….the aftershock of those actions can still be felt today.
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Gimp, fonts, T-shirts - finally, we all seem happy together.
by Gregoryno6I posted a piece on how to do t-shirts a while ago. I deleted it when I realised that a lot of my ideas were wrong, but I think that I ca…
I posted a piece on how to do t-shirts a while ago. I deleted it when I realised that a lot of my ideas were wrong, but I think that I can offer some useful advice this time. The template posted here at RB is what I’m using now. If you haven’t worked with it before the simple way to eliminate the white rectangle and red lines is to click on Select – top left – then All, then go to Edit and Cut. That wipes everything off. I have saved the template in that fashion now. I had a lot of trouble with fonts. Everywhere I looked on the net I found instructions on how fonts could be added to the Gimp menu and I couldn’t make any of them work. My final solution was: a – make sure every font I wanted was loaded into my Windows font folder; / b – uninstall Gimp and the GTK Runtime Environment which it requires; / c – reload the latest versions of each, available here. Maybe I just got lucky, but it worked. All fonts now available. I had created another problem for myself by creating my own template, but this wasn’t an issue until recently when RB changed the production method for the T’s. Effectively I had put all my messages on a white background rather than a clear background. / I found the answer on this page, which gives instructions on how to make any colour transparent in Gimp. If you’re starting from scratch in Gimp and want to do a text T, it’s very simple (he said, having banged his head long and hard over this problem). Once you have the template open and prepared as I described earlier, click the bold T (for Text) on the control panel. This will open a box which will show options like fonts, colour – click on each to display the full range – size of text, and alignment. Click on the point of the template where you want the words to appear. This will open a small window – as you type, the words will appear here and also on the template. The template display will create a yellow boundary around your words. I find it easiest to start in the top left corner and then move the text to where I want it by clicking on the four-arrow icon. This should turn your yellow boundary to white, and the text will move as you desire. Hope this helps. PS: I’ve just used the colour to clear technique to create a negative version of my Amaze T shirt, Amaze T2. ADDENDUM: I posted this piece, Programs I Use, in the forums some time ago. I’ll link to it here for your further consideration.
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the blacker more cuntish version
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this is an old train bridge All The Materials Contained May Not Be Reproduced, Copied, Edited, Published, Transmitted Or Uploaded In Any Way Without My Permission. My Images Do Not Belong To The Public Domain. / © melynda galbraith (mlgkats) 2007: using this image for any purpose and in any way, without prior permission, may lead to legal action. /
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Making a selection using the colour channels in Photoshop.
by Alison JohnstonI haven’t done a tutorial in a while and thought this might be something you find handy for replacing a sky, or perhaps selecting fly awa…
I haven’t done a tutorial in a while and thought this might be something you find handy for replacing a sky, or perhaps selecting fly away hair etc., Photoshop has lots of tools for making selections, the magic wand, the highly under / rated quick selection tool in PS3, the lasso, the magnetic lasso, the polygonal, / the pen tool, the extract tool etc., but for some reason when making a selection in / channels is mentioned, folks become a little more nervous. Probably one of the better ways to make accurate selections is in the colour channels, but be warned that it doesn’t always work, so checking the colour channels is one thing that is worth doing straight off the bat. What we will be looking for is the channel with the most contrast, in this case between the sky and the trees. As it happens, the blue channel is the one we will be using, but do check through them on other images you try this on. We’ll be using the paint brush tool and the dodge and burn tools for this exercise, so as long as the program you use has channels, a paint brush, dodge and burn tools you should be able to complete this in programs other than Photoshop. I have uploaded 2 large images to my flickr account, so you can see what you are doing :-) MAIN IMAGE and SKY IMAGE The copyright is mine .. yada, yada … Start Image. Completed Image. I have been building a library of sky images for quite a while, and it is a useful thing / to do. If you find yourself lost for something to take a photo of, start building yourself / a library of skies, textures etc., they can come in very handy. So, we’re going to replace the sky in the first image, with the sky in the 2nd image / because, people often change reasonable blue skies with other blue skies :) Here we go … open the main image and duplicate the layer by dragging it the new layer icon, pressing Ctrl J, or going to Layer>Duplicate Layer in the top toolbar. Next, I want you to click on the channels tab, which should be next to your layers tab. Next, click on the blue channel … you should now see something similar to the image below. I want you to duplicate the blue channel by dragging it to the create new layer icon at the bottom of the palette, and you can go ahead and name this if you like .. I left it as blue copy. You’ll notice that we don’t have access to our adjustment layers from the bottom toolbar like we do in the layers palette, we have to select from the top toolbar. So go to the top toolbar and select Image>Adjustment>Levels and making sure that you are working on the duplicate blue layer (blue layer copy) you can punch in the same settings as I have on the image below. I’ve tried to hide the sand with the dialogue box because we aren’t really interested in that just yet, What you’re looking at is the sky area and the trees and that they are pretty much black and white. You can go and grab your paintbrush now, and with the foreground set to black, paint over the sand at the bottom of the image. Don’t be afraid to zoom in to make sure that it is completely covered. Paint over the bush on the right of the image as well, just be a bit careful as you get nearer the top, remember that we can burn any stray areas with the burn tool. With the foreground set to white, go over the white areas in the sky top left. Stay away from the tree line with the brush tool, we are going to get closer to the trees with the dodge tool in just a second. Don’t forget to zoom in for the sky area as well. You can see in the image below that we are trying to achieve a black and white version of the image for the mask Shall we dodge or burn first ? Lets dodge :-) Select your dodge tool, select highlights from the top menu bar and keep your opacity down to 10%, or perhaps even less. Go along the top tree line .. zoom in for this … and see if there are any stray black pixels, if there is just dodge over them. You can also check around the other white areas, inside the trees for example. When you’re happy with what you have, switch to the burn tool, and choose shadows from the top menu and leave that at about 10% as well. Do the same as you did with the dodge tool, except to the darker areas i.e. burn out any remaining white areas that shouldn’t be there. To Toggle back and forth between your original image click on the RGB channel to check that you have all the areas you want dodged or burned. Like the image below. I went to filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and gave this a blur of 1 – that would obviously be different if you had a higher res image. Before going back to your layers palette by clicking on the layers tab make sure that you click on the RGB layer in the channels palette and then bring in the sky image. Sandwich that between the background and duplicated background layer. Click on the background copy and switch back to the channels palette. Select the blue copy layer (or whatever you called it) and then you can do a couple of things – you can either press the first icon at the bottom of the channels palette which will load the channel as a selection, or you can press Ctrl and then click on the blue copy layer, / and that will load the selection. Click on the RGB channel and then return to the layers palette. Your selection should now show up on your image in the layers palette. Go to Edit>Cut and the new sky image should show through. To further refine the selection, add a mask to the layer and proceed as you normally would to mask away any stray bits that may be left. Select the new sky layer, and use the move tool to position it wherever you want in the image. I know that probably sounds like a lot of messing around, but once you have done it a couple of times you will get the hand of it. And this is one of the easiest ways to select stray hair,fly away hair etc., Taking the time to get a mask as accurate as possible in the colour channels will save you loads of time later on. Hope this has been helpful to you. If you don’t understand any of my ramblings, feel free to ask questions, or BM me.
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On a friends farm. She has removed the fence but has still kept the the gate.
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