Tool
1 member found
-
Mark O'Toole
Ireland
403 creative works found
-
In the moment his hand closed around his weapon, / His mind readied itself for the battle. / Man against the machine.
-
from i book im working on,i likes it!
-
Wear the grudge like a crown / Desperate to control / Unable to forgive / And sinking / Deeper
-
Just a few of my favorite things. / MCN:C86-P3EE-3651 © 2007 All Rights Reserved
-
Can anything represent diversity better?
-
The word Tube has got a new meaning because of the video channel on the internet. Still artists depend much on the regular tubes… / This tube is a detail taken from one of my desktop paintings. I consider this tee as a perfect contribution to the masterpiece clothing group, its fusion related to making art/images/messages nowadays and during centuries. In my zazzle shop you can find the same design showed on different models, colours and the backside printed with logo and instruction. Plus they print larger and their quality of printing is very good! And some others…
-
My wonderful model – Jasmine Makeup, hair, wardrobe – Melissa Vowell Small Black Box Frame on Bright White Matte
-
This door detail was photographed in Avanos, a small town in the Cappadocia region of central Turkey. The bright colors and old wood of houses and doors in these small towns are often beautiful and always intriguing. The splintered wood, tooled brass lock and handle, and encroaching shadow give this piece a sense of mystery for me.
-
HOW I WORK MY IMAGES?
by SylviaHardyIt all depends on the photograph that I am taking as to how I will work it to a finish. This may sound a bit long-winded, but to really …
It all depends on the photograph that I am taking as to how I will work it to a finish. This may sound a bit long-winded, but to really understand how my photograph is being worked, it all comes together in a picture that you see in my portfolio on Redbubble! Most of my photographs have been taken in RAW, with my digital camera, Canon EOS 350D and EOS 20D. Not that this should make any difference to the image. Sometimes I will create an image with Sophia’s camera which is a compact zoom 8. Megapix. “Trapped in the light” was taken with that camera and was taken in JPG for ease of use. As for “Searching for Spring” , this image was HDR processed. To do this I have taken three images of the same, making sure that the camera is solid on a tripod, to avoid moving it from position. I then take three exposures of the same image. / 1 photograph is taken two stop over exposed, 1 photograph is taken two stops under exposed and the other 1 is correctly exposed. The subject, in Sophia’s case had to remain absolutely still down to her eyes, which is hard for a five year old to do! But she was a very good girl and it has taken her all the concentration to do it, and it is that what has given her this serious look bless her. I had no intention to portray her as an evil child, so that is something to watch out for when using HDR on youngsters! I always prefer to use natural surroundings and available light from that surrounding. I don’t like using flash, because I feel it can destroy the mood that natural light can create for me. For instance, the HDR method that I have used on Sophia in the mentioned image, the sun is behind her. To use flash would have completely changed the feel and the mood of the photography. Try this for yourself and look at the difference in your pictures and see what I mean? The type of light you use determines the mood that you want to create! This is true for any kind of photography. To create HDR images, I have downloaded Photomatix basic from Google search, and this is FREE! Any one who is interested in HDR? There is a group in RB that may be very useful and helpful to learn. Enhance Photo > Photo Fix / After I’ve HDR’d “Searching for Spring” in Photomatix basic, I opened this picture in Corel paintshop pro XI. In this software, I have “Enhance Photo” and open to “Smart Photo Fix”. This tool has several applications to darken or lighten the shadow area without affecting the over all photograph. The Overall slider affects the whole of the image by darkening or lighting it. A little bit like fill in light. The Highlight slider only affects the highlights of your picture. Then there is the Saturation slider and Focus slider, when you’ve finished, you click OK! I use this on most of my photographs to improve the overall appearance. Selection tool/Lasso tool / Now, I want to isolate and section areas that I feel needs working on without affecting the rest of my photograph! To do this I love the lasso tool or the selection tool that looks like a lasso. I zoom right into the picture for maximum control but leave enough room so that I can still recognise the edges that I need to go around with my selection tool. To select the horizon or the sky, I try to avoid the trees and bushes if I can, for they can get to dark or even black and will ruin the picture. Feather / Before I lasso, I decide what effect I want with the Feather tool from the select tool. This will determine if the edges are going to be smooth and straight, which would be 0! Or if I want a layering or vignette effect around the subject? This would be from 1 – 200! I suggest you should experiment to get to know how the feather effect looks on your work. This is all down to personal preferences. It is a bit like, how much salt do you like on your food? Adjust > Brightness and Contrast > Curves / Once the portion has been selected and I have lassoed around the sky, I will go into Adjust > Brightness and Contrast > Curves, select curves! A box comes up and you see your selected part of the image in a window. This is the part that is going to be worked on. In my case, I want to darken the sky and bring out the drama of the clouds. In the box there is a diagonal line. Grab the middle of the line and move it about. You will see how the selected part is changing in contrast. I drag the middle of the line slightly down until I am happy with the result, and then click ok! Get familiar with the different tools and experiment with them! This is what I do and am still learning. I build up my experience through experimenting. The result is seen in my portfolio in Redbubble for all to see! Invert selection / If I want to save time and work on the foreground of the picture, while the sky is still selected. I go into Selection and click on Invert. Or you tap on “Alt + Shift + I” to invert my selection. Now my foreground is selected and the sky deselected. Experiment / In the case of “Searching for Spring” I only selected Sophia by lassoing all around her and the Feather on 0. I needed to bring out detail that would otherwise be lost. / I have tried several applications, like Levels, Curves and even Histogram Adjustment. / These can all be found in, Adjust > Brightness and Contrast. Trying very hard to keep her in harmony with her surrounding. The same was also done with the table that Sophia stood on. Finally to the black and white effect! Adjust > Color > Channel Mixer / This method applies to most of my black and white images, whether they are a straight shot or have been enhanced first. I go into Adjust > Color > Channel Mixer, tick the Monochrome box. Red will default to 100, while green and blue to 0. This usually turns the blue sky very dark, and the skin or anything that has red in it very pale to white. A good guidance that I have learned from someone was, to make sure that, which ever way you choose to move the slider to maintain a total of 100%. As an example only; / Red% -40, Green% 28, Blue% 112, and it adds up 100%! Play about with that to get a feel for how this makes your black and white photograph look. / If the red lightens red, the green slider should lighten anything green and the blue, blue! / Use your judgement and then click ok. But make sure you don’t burn out any highlights in your photograph. This can look ugly if it is overdone. Once I am satisfied, I click ok and move on to the next treatment. Adjust > Brightness and Contrast > Histogram Adjustment. / To finish of my picture I will go into Adjust > Brightness and Contrast > Histogram Adjustment. There is a slider on the side that will affect the contrast of the image. Slide it down, the contrast increases. Slide it up and it will decrease. I like to increase the contrast, trying not to burn out highlights in Sophia’s face. On the bottom of the box of the histogram there are little triangles, / Low Gamma High / Move the middle triangle Gamma towards the high, and will bring out details in the shadow area. While moving towards the Low, it will bring out details in the highlights. / That is where the selection tool will also be useful if you don’t want to affect the rest of the picture but only one aspect. Click ok and I am almost done! Final finishing touches! Learning centre > Home > Effects > film and filter / Corel Paintshop XI have this extra facility that I love t use for effects. It has a learning centre > home > effects > film and filter. I love the Glamour and Warming, which I have been using with “Trapped in the light”. And finally save the finished work which you get to see on Redbubble if I am happy with it! Thank you all who have shown so much interest in my work and wanted to know about how I did them? I hope it makes sense and is easy enough to follow? My best regards Sylvia!
-
Weird Creatures and Photoshop Transform Tools
by Julie LangfordOk, so here is how I used the Edit transform tools in Photoshop to create / / Wiseman / !http://images-2.redbubble.com/img/art/cropped/...
Ok, so here is how I used the Edit transform tools in Photoshop to create / / Wiseman / and Fish Monster / / / Have loads of fun and be creative – things just appear right before your eyes using this method. / / 1. Open Photoshop and create a new transparent document 3200 high by 2400 wide [you can post a Tshirt with these dimensions as well as an art piece]. / / 2. Create a new layer and fill the bottom layer with solid black [you will need this dark background to see what you are doing later]. / / / / 3. Working on the top, tranparent layer – draw a random shape using the pen tool [create smooth curves by clicking and dragging, until you get back to your first point to close the path]. / / / / 4. Down on the bottom right click on the Paths tab on the layers palette. At the bottom of the palette, click on the convert to selection icon [shown in red below] – this will convert your path to a selection. / / / / 5. Fill this selection with a multicoloured gradient [or two colours of your choice]. / / / / 6. Click on Edit [up the top], then on Free Transform. This puts a border around your selection so that you can resize it. hit enter when you are happy with the resize to apply it. Then use the move tool in the toolbar on the left to move it to the centre of your canvas. / / / / 7. Back in the bottom right Layers palette, click back onto the layer tab. Duplicate the top layer [right click it and click duplicate]. / / 8. Working on the top layer again, click Edit, Transform, rotate. This puts a border around your image and allows you to drag the corners to rotaate the layer. Rotate it enough so that it moves slightly away from the layer beneath [see below]. Hit enter to apply the rotation. / / / / 9. Repeat the layer duplication and rotate until you have about 6 layers – keep the rotation reasonably uniform. / / / / 10. In the layers palette, click the top layer, hold ctrl on the keyboard and click all the other layers – except the bottom, black layer. This will highlight [select] them all. Once selected, righ click them, and click on merge layers. You will now have two layers in the layers palette again. A black layer [at the bottom], and a new layer with your rotation work above it. / / 11. Working on the top layer, click on Edit, transform and warp. this puts a grid over the image, which you can drag in multiple places and directions to completely change the appearance of your image. Work with this until you have a long warped shape like below. hit enter to aply the warp efect. / / / / 12. Repeat the whole process again, duplicating and rotating the layers until you have something like the image below. / / / / 13. Select all the layers except the black layer again and merge them. [youre now back to two layers again]. / / 14. Duplicate the top layer again, move it away from the other layer on your canvas. Warp it so that it is longer and thinner than the original layer that you duplicated [see below] / / / / 15. Click Edit, Free Transform to resize it. / / / / 16, Rotate it and place it over the other layer on your canvas. In the layer palette, drag the long thin layer to underneath the other layer, so that it appears underneath it in the platte [and on your canvas]. / / / / 17. Select both layers [but not the black layer] and merge them. / / 18. Click on image [up the top], and then on rotate canvas, then on 90 degrees CW. Duplicate the top layer, then click on Edit, Transform, then flip horozontally. Now move this new layer over until it lies side by side to the other layer. Select both layers [but not the black layer], and merge them. / / 19. Working on the top layer, click layer up the top, and then New, and then Layer. Draw an oval selection using the circular marquee tool in the eye area, and fill it with white. / / / / 20. Duplicate this layer and drag it over using the move tool to cover the other eye with a white oval. / / 21. Create another new layer, and use the paintbrush and black, and click once on each eye white to create pupils. Ctrl click all the eye layers in the layer pallette and merge them. / / 22. Working on this eye layer, click the word Layer [up the top], then Layer style, then Inner shadow. Apply the settings below to give your eyes life. / / / / 23. Click on the black layer in the layer palette, then click on Layer, new layer up the top to create a new layer above the black layer. / / 24. Use the Polygonal Lasso tool and draw a shape within your image for a beak [see below]. / / / / 25. Fill this selection shape with a dark grey to yellow gradient [top to bottom]. / / 26. Still working on this beak layer, click on Layer [up the top], layer style, Inner Shadow, and use similar settings to when you did the eyes to give depth the the beak. / / 27. Crtl click all the layers except the black layer and merge layers. You are now back to two layers – one black, and one with your image above it. It will look something like the image below. / / / / To save your image to post as art on a black background, go to file, save as, and save as a jpeg. This will merge and flatten the work. / / To save your work to post as a Tshirt, first, click the eye icon next to the black layer in the layer palette to make it disappear – your black background will become invisible. Now go to file, save as, and save as a png file. / / Voila – you have created a critter using transform tools in Photoshop. / / You can also use this method with parts of photographs, like I did with Fish monster. Try all sorts of things to get neat effects – a spoon, as nail, a scewdriver even. / / Most importantly, transform, transform, duplicate and transform some more – the more you use, the better your results will be. / / Have fun! /
-
The Patch Tool, a major time saver.
by Deri DorityThe patch tool is often a very underutilized tool in Photoshop. Hidden under the Spot healing brush and 2 other tools, the Patch tool i…
The patch tool is often a very underutilized tool in Photoshop. Hidden under the Spot healing brush and 2 other tools, the Patch tool is similar to a combination of the lasso tool and the healing tool. You select an area, click the appropriate button (source or destination- mine is usually on source) and then drag the selection to another area that has characteristics that fit your needs. For example, in one of my photos, “Fall in the Hills”, the photo was dotted with houses and roads that didn’t add to the composition. I simply drew around the houses and roads with the patch tool and drug them into an area with trees. The result is no more houses/roads, that simple. The patch tool is often superior and easier to use than the clone tool, especially for large areas, achieving better results. Another example, if someone has black rings under the eyes, you trace around the area that needs work on, select “source” in the Tools Option Bar right above the Tools Palette), and drag it to an another area of skin that has a more likely color. Make sure that the area you are dragging to is blemish free, as you will pick up any blemishes that are in the destination area. The best way to see how this tool works is to practice with it. Easy to use, you can cut your work time way down by using this over the clone tool. I rarely use the spot healing tools any more as well, finding this faster and easier. For most general use, it is easy to use. It takes a little more practice to use when there are lines in the area that needs to be fixed. You must drag it to a destination that has the lines at the exact same angle. / The patch tool goes all the way back to Photoshop 7, and has been improved on in the newer versions of Photoshop.
-
this is a fairy i finished the other day,or at least finished for now,i will probably update it next time i work on it.
-
As a once psychology major, I was intrigued by Freud’s theory on the id and ego of the human psyche. It has been many years since those classes so my words may be somewhat off. But this piece is a self representation (aren’t they all?) of myself and how the “id” and “ego” play in our life decisions. We all seek pleasure and that constant feeling of euphoria, and our “id”’s only goal is to achieve those feelings without worry or care about the consequences of such actions. It is our “ego” that keeps the “id” in line, allowing us to think before we act, and to be able to foresee what may come of this pleasure seeking. It is a constant battle that wages on beneath our skin and sometimes the “id” overcomes. Some choose to live only by the “id”s bidding and never realize the destruction they leave behind when seeking their pleasures. I have been through that lifestyle once, and as much as I enjoyed such pleasures in bountiful amounts….the aftershock of those actions can still be felt today.
-
PhotoShop: Less is More
by Paul HamiltonPhotoshop: Less Is More When I bought PhotoShop for the first time some years ago I was blown away by its power and potential. I’d he…
Photoshop: Less Is More When I bought PhotoShop for the first time some years ago I was blown away by its power and potential. I’d heard about this magic software but didn’t realise that with such power comes much responsibility. The first images I used with PhotoShop looked terrible. Clumsy lighting effects splashed with a pinch or wind effect. / As I experimented with the software I realised that to enhance my macro shots I needed a greater knowledge of Photoshop and some simple techniques that would allow my images to shine not become mutilated. These are some simple tools I have found extremely effective. / 1. Use Curves to illuminate your image without putting that haze over the image. Originally I played around with the lighting tool but found the Curves tool so much more effective. You can find Curves but going to IMAGE>ADJUSTMENTS>CURVES / 2. Make subtle changes to the colour of your image using the colour balance tool. Experiment with the Shadows, Midtones and Highlight. Be careful not to go to extremes. Over colouring can make the water red in a beach landscape shot. You can find the colour balance tool by going to IMAGE>ADJUSTMENTS>COLOUR BALANCE / 3. Experiment with the Crop tool. Look to erase meaningless space and colour that takes away from the focus of the photograph. Once again don’t go overboard. Some space around the main focal point of the photo will frame it beautifully. The Crop tool is found on the tool bar. / With these 3 tools do everything in moderation. These 3 tools work best with a great photo to start with. Whatever you’ve heard Photoshop will not create a great photo all by itself but can be used to great effect to make a good photo a great one. Kind Regards Paul
-
yup,its a bunny! thanks a lot for dropping by! no go watch the lifetime channel.
-
The inventor’s workshop / / Click to view by category / / Fractal Images Images from Nature HDR Images Flower Portraits Night/Low Light Images Architectural Images Landscape Images Infrared Images / / / Random Images / /
-
Taken at Captains Cottage Museum in Murray Bridge. I thought their grouping altogether was just marvelous.
-
The Smudge Tool
by Alison JohnstonThe smudge tool doesn’t sound like a terribly exciting tool, something that you could have some fun with – but it can be and we’re going …
The smudge tool doesn’t sound like a terribly exciting tool, something that you could have some fun with – but it can be and we’re going to look at one way in this tutorial. This tutorial is going to involve the use of the pen tool, but it will be painless :-) The first thing that you will need to do is create a new document, I have used 800×600 with a black background. Next you will need to create a new layer above the background layer by clicking on the new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette and then select your elliptical marquee tool and draw out a small circle similar to the one below, holding down the alt + shift keys. Before deselecting the marching ants, go to the gradient tool and pick a gradient from the drop down menu, I’ve used the ‘copper’ gradient. Make sure you are using a linear gradient, and hold down your shift key while dragging from the top to the bottom of the circle – you can deselect the marching ants. You can go ahead and duplicate the small circle by selecting your move tool then holding down the Alt + Ctrl keys (this will copy and drop the copy onto a new layer), drag a little way then hold down your shift key as well and this will constrain the down movement. Next you’re going to grab the pen tool, and, starting from the centre of the top most circle, click a point then move across and click and drag another point. You will have to reduce the size of your image for this, but keep the canvas larger because you will have to click the final part of the path outside of the image. Go to your paths palette, which should be default with your layers and channels palette, if it isn’t go to Window>Paths – and at the bottom on that palette click on the ‘create new path’ icon. Go back to your tools palette and choose your pen tool again, click on the centre of the next circle and do something similar to the above, but change the direction a little. Repeat this for the other 2 remaining circles. The original path will be called ‘work path’ and then the rest will be called ‘1, 2, 3’ – you will need to line up the corresponding layer in the layers palette in one of the future steps, but first we have to go and choose a hard edge tip for the smudge tool. Click on the smudge tool and get a size similar to the one in the image below. I’ve made the circles and brush size bigger than I normally would for the sake of visibility. Depending on what you were going to do with this technique, all things can be changed. With the smudge tool selected, click on the first layer in the layers palette, then go to the paths palette and click on the ‘work path’ layer, then right click on this choose ‘stroke path’ from the fly out menu – a small dialogue will appear and ‘smudge’ should already be selected, but if it isn’t choose ‘smudge’ from the drop down menu. Click OK and you should have something similar to the next image. You can go to your paths palette now and drag the path you just stroked to the little bin icon at the bottom of the palette. Go to the next layer up the stack in your layers palette, make sure the smudge tool is still selected (it should be), go to your paths palette and click on the corresponding path in there, then at the bottom of the paths palette click on the small ‘stroke path with brush’ icon (second from the left) Continue to do this until the remaining paths are completed. Depending on the gradient you used and the size of the circles and brush size, your image might look something similar to the one below. Go ahead now and merge the 4 stroked layers in your layers palette to 1 layer. Next, press Ctrl + T on your keyboard to bring up the Transform tool, right click inside this and select ‘distort’. You can do something similar to the image below if you like, but I would suggest that you go to Layer>Matting>Defringe after you distort the selection – I used a 10 pixel radius on this particular image. From here you can go ahead and do a multitude of different things. Change the background and experiment with blend modes. Use the plastic wrap filter, or give the image a drop shadow then place the drop shadow on its own layer and blur it. You don’t even have to use 4 of these pipe effects. On the image below I changed the b/ground to blue with a radial gradient, and changed the blend mode to overlay. I then used the FX to give the pipes an outer glow by changing the glow colour to white, a blend mode of ‘Linear Dodge (Add) with an opacity of 50% Technique set to softer and a spread of 90%. Try out different things and see what you can come up with, but most of all – have fun!
RedBubble is a great place to find art, design, photos and writing from over 50,000 talented people.
You can buy their stuff
On stunning greeting cards, awesome t-shirts or beautiful prints to hang on your walls.
Risk Free Returns
It’s really simple. If you’re not happy with your purchase for any reason, we’ll fix it.
About RedBubble
Since February 2007 we’ve shipped over 96,500 items to more than 70 countries around the world.
Join In
Sign up for your free account, upload your work, join some groups and share your creative genius with the world.