Sensor 

38 creative works found

  • Psychedelic colors. Looks like the display from an infra red heat sensor.

  • Product review - warning.....may be confused with advertising
    by Mel Brackstone

    I have been lucky enough to win a few prizes around the traps, and the last one arrived on my doorstep a couple of days ago from the love…

    I have been lucky enough to win a few prizes around the traps, and the last one arrived on my doorstep a couple of days ago from the lovely people at Visible Dust, compliments of the Digital Image Cafe Cathy MacMillan – a co-owner with her husband Todd, asked me to write a small review of the product, so here it is, warts and all. I’m not all that good with words. I unpacked my Arctic Butterfly 724 Total Care Bundle with glee, knowing my trip to New Zealand had left my sensor with more dust bunnies than I cared to mention. What fabulous care this company takes with it’s accessories. Zippered tailor-made PVC bag for the Arctic Butterfly, with a solid case inside that, with the Arctic Butterfly nestling into a cut-out foam bed. The Sensor Loupe also has a wonderful tailor-made PVC container, and inside there are extras too! The Loupe itself is encased in a microfibre bag with a looped closure, there’s a separate microfibre cloth to clean the screen, and in a pocket on the other side is a cord to attach to the Loupe so you can wear it around your neck, I guess to stop it being dropped. (These people must know me too well!!) Each of the PVC bags also has a large clip so that you can hang your accessories from a convenient place, you could be a travelling sensor cleaner with a tool belt of Visible Dust tools. The focusing screen swab was my first test, so I opened up the camera by removing the lens, then used 2 drops of liquid on the swab, wiped it gently across both focusing screen and mirror, then checked the view with the lens back on. This made quite a huge difference to start with! I then tested the Arctic Butterfly. I loaded up the supplied batteries, took off the clear perspex lid, and turned it on. The whirling brush apparently picks up static so that it can clean off any contaminants. My sensor is a contaminant attractor, so I was hoping that we’d see a huge difference! The 20D has a very small sensor, and therefore the opening seems quite cramped. It’s easy though, and needless to say a single sweep of the brush was all that was necessary. It looks quite clean to me! Time to get out the Sensor Loupe! Whoa! What a fabulous accessory! You can see every millimetre of sensor, in bright clear light. What an innovation! Everyone who uses a DSLR needs one of these! Ok, the 20D sensor still appears to have a couple of smears, which is obvious from the use of the Sensor Loupe. It’s time to check out the sensor swabs. The supplied swabs are the 1.6X size, to suit the Canon 20D. It’s important to use the correct sized swabs. Three drops of sensor cleaning fluid – and leave it for a few seconds. Swab the sensor by using a single pass across it. Check with the Sensor Loupe, and voila! It’s clean, shiny and ready to go. It’s a complete and easy to use product, and I can highly recommend it! Documentation is attached to the boxes that contain the swabs, the liquid is supplied with a flyer to give the entire directions as well, and if in doubt, there’s a wealth of information on the webpage Great Christmas present, people!

  • Sensor Memorial

  • Nikon D80 Help..
    by Basia McAuley

    I think I have some dust on my D80 sensor / lens.. what ever you call it (not good at technical stuff as you can see!). Can anyone pleas…

    I think I have some dust on my D80 sensor / lens.. what ever you call it (not good at technical stuff as you can see!). Can anyone please tell me how to clean it?! Thanks in advance! Basia

  • Sensor Cleaning Advice Site
    by NATURELENS

    Dear All If you clean your own sensor, or are thinking of cleaning it, then its worth giving this site a look, its the best one I have…

    Dear All If you clean your own sensor, or are thinking of cleaning it, then its worth giving this site a look, its the best one I have found to date. Sensor Cleaning Hope you find it useful Regards Neil

  • From the PX3 awarded series – ORDER:SQUAMATA / / Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • From the PX3 awarded series – ORDER:SQUAMATA / / Rough Scaled Python (Morelia carinata) is possibly the rarest snake in Australia. Only discovered in 1976, this is the only python species to have keeled or ‘rough’ scales, hence its common name. Endemic to northern Western Australia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Rough Scaled Python (Morelia carinata) is possibly the rarest snake in Australia. Only discovered in 1976, this is the only python species to have keeled or ‘rough’ scales, hence its common name. Endemic to northern Western Australia. / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • From the PX3 awarded series – ORDER:SQUAMATA / / Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Green Tree Python (Morelia viridis) is a non-venomous python species found in the Cape York Peninsula in Australia, New Guinea and various islands in Indonesia. / / ©2008 Shannon Plummer. All Rights Reserved. / www.shannonplummerphotography.com / www.centralnetteddragon.com

  • Jusa trying to capture mother nature at her best..

  • Additions To My Main Website Learning Curve Section
    by NATURELENS

    Dear All For those who may be interested. I have had some time free lately and so completed 3 new sections detailing my own learing…

    Dear All For those who may be interested. I have had some time free lately and so completed 3 new sections detailing my own learing, thoughts and research on the following subjects: Use of Canon’s IS function and a tripod Cropped sensor or full sensor for long lens work Photographing birds in flight THIS LINK will take you directly to the sections I hope they prove to be of some use to others. Regards Neil

  • Digital camera sensor cleaning and those rascally rabbits
    by Darren Stones

    Camera maintenance is an important habit to get into, but of course no one has to be too meticulous about it. Hell, housework is certainl…

    Camera maintenance is an important habit to get into, but of course no one has to be too meticulous about it. Hell, housework is certainly not my strong point. This morning I gave my baby (Canon 20D) a spruce up. I thought it was perfect timing with the sun shining and a stunning blue sky – just as you’d expect in Melbourne. Of course at time of writing the clouds have rolled in to provide a diffusing effect to the scenery. :) The camera sensor was due for a little dust removal. So, off I toddled with the 50mm prime lens attached and I set the camera to manual mode and proceeded to take exposures at F/22. F/22 is perfect for revealing those dust bunnies. You know the one’s, those darn spots we remove in photoshop and are a right pain in the ass. What fun – not. Anyway, I soon found a big dust bunny had come to the party. The bloody thing was bigger than Bugs Bunny. Huh, that big bugger was in fact on the rear lens element, so after a few exposures rocket science (a brain wave) soon dictated that he/she had to be exterminated with a quick wipe with a soft lens cloth. Done. Onwards we go to a little fiddling in photoshop and a play with the auto levels option. That was interesting to say the least and clearly revealed those dastardly bunnies at their worst. After a few goes at exterminating them I have a relatively clean baby all ready to take for a spin. Above – Sensor before cleaning Above – Sensor after cleaning Above – Sensor before cleaning with auto levels adjustment in Photoshop Above – Sensor after cleaning with auto levels adjustment in Photoshop I use the Copper Hill kit products as supplied by Quality Cameras in Perth. I have no affiliation with them, but can recommend their prompt and courteous service and cleaning kit products. Of course I couldn’t get rid of all the bunnies, so I suspect the mummy and daddy bunny will make more little bunnies for me to exterminate in the future. Those rascally rabbits. Some great info here to assist. / http://www.pbase.com/copperhill/ccd_cleaning And this is the way I do it. / http://www.pbase.com/copperhill/image/71784128 Advice articles can be found on my site here

  • my son adding a bit of roost to the mix. this is how the / sensor ends up with little black spots on the canon40D / at f8 and smaller.penguin mx track tasmania. / motocross come and try day. / canon 40D / f3.5 / 1/2000 / iso 400 / ap

  • Also? My camera needs cleaning.

  • Diffraction Dose it Matter
    by Rich Gale

    I’m no expert on Diffraction and don’t really understand the physics of it, I believe its like a hosepipe when you force water through a …

    I’m no expert on Diffraction and don’t really understand the physics of it, I believe its like a hosepipe when you force water through a small hole it tends to spread out. When light rays travel through our lens using a small aperture it has a similar effect. This reduces the quality of the image, apparently the bigger the pixel size the less effect diffraction has on your image quality, so on your APS-C (400D)10mpix sensor will suffer more than your (5D)full frame 12mpix. / I tend to avoid very small apertures unless I really need that massive depth of field generally when shooting with wide lens your apparent DOF is greater at fairly modest apertures with longer focal lengths the need to stop down is greater but I personally tend not to need to be so close to my foreground when compressing the landscape. My main reason for trying to stick to above F16 is to avoid having to clean dust spots of my images(not such a problem since I got sensor brush), I know I see a lot of landscape images were the photographers seems to use F22 as there standard setting but dose diffraction actually make that much difference. / I tested using 3 different lenses a sigma 28mm F1.8 prime, canon 17-40 F4L and canon 24-104F4L. I shot a serious of images F22,F18,F14,F10,F4. The camera (400D) was mounted on a tripod with mirror lock up cable release and manual focus. I viewed these at a rather extreme 200% in DFP it was quite obvious that the quality suffered at the extremes of aperture as you would expect wide open F4 on the canons there was an obvious difference from F10 also the difference in all cases between F10 and F18 was noticeable becoming more pronounced by F22. The deterioration at the large apertures(F4) is obviously to do with the optics. / F22 / F18 / F10 / I don’t know if the deterioration at F22 is optics or diffraction but it is there in all 3 lenses the fact that I know this is all that matters, / I suppose for us as photographers dose it matter, for my landscape work who knows when a gallery/customer may want a very large print I always try and get the best quality out of my equipment I’m sure at A3 you would not be able to tell the difference, but at A1 or A0 it might be a different story. / It would have been very interesting to do the same test with a 5D and see if there was much difference I suppose this would have proved to an extent if the deterioration was optics or diffraction unfortunately I don’t have access to one so maybe somebody else could take up the challenge. / At the end of the day I will use what ever aperture I need to keep the important elements of the image in sharp focus but I think its worth thinking about do I really need to use F18/F22 for the image to work. / An interesting site with a technical explanation

  • An illustration of the classic LazerTag chest sensor.

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