I am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to s…
I am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to share this one with you. Regarding Hue/Saturation. When you overdo this on an adjustment layer in your photos your detail is lost and it looks really blocky. Sometimes you just can’t get the saturation adjustments you need. Here’s how its done – Thank you to Chris Orwig for this one. 1) Open you image and convert it to LAB colour using: Image – Mode – Lab Colour 2) Create a curves adjustment layer 3) In the Curves dialog box ALT-click the grid to get a more detailed display 4) Go to the a – channel 5) Pull the black slider on the bottom of the grid into the right just one grid line (in this example although you can play!) 6) Pull the white slider opposite into the left by the same one grid line 7) Switch to the b channel and repeat. 8) Check out your image. This method actually increases saturation in tones you couldn’t even see that you had. Its excellent for autumn leaves or rivers and waterfalls. 9) When your done exit Curves dialog and convert your image back to RGB (select to Flatten in the pop up prompt) 10) Your all done. This is by far the best tip I’ve discovered so far. I tried it out of interest on a shot from this afternoon and it brought out lovely greens in Autumn leaves and a lovely hazy blue on water and waterfalls. Try it – I think you will like it! :D
I had a few images printed a couple of days ago, and they came out looking awful! Deep, dark shadows that prevented any detail from being…
I had a few images printed a couple of days ago, and they came out looking awful! Deep, dark shadows that prevented any detail from being seen and horribly over saturated…. ugh… I have a question – do they look like that one here? I’m trying to figure out if the problem is with the screen settings on my computer or with the place that printed them (must be thier fault – When in doubt, blame your equipment or someone else), because they look completely different on my screen! So if they’re oversaturated and ridicolousely dark to you, I have some tweaking to do… / Thanks, I appreciate any input. / Jess Oh, and yay! First journal entry!
I edited and reuploaded Petra (http://www.redbubble.com/people/expansion/clothing/491965-5-petra) however it is reallly dark and saturate…
I edited and reuploaded Petra (http://www.redbubble.com/people/expansion/clothing/491965-5-petra) however it is reallly dark and saturated compared to how it should be. Anyone else experienced this before? / Cheers
By Nikki Trexel I was in North Carolina’s Outer Banks for ten days, a summer paradise …
By Nikki Trexel I was in North Carolina’s Outer Banks for ten days, a summer paradise for one Midwestern girl who’s never been to the ocean. Many photos were captured, such as A Sandy Stairway to Heaven, and the ocean was lapping at our ankles and The Shadows Ascend. But this, one of the first taken at the beach, immediately stuck out to me as having potential: And so you can compare them side by side, here’s the final product. / / The first thing I did when I opened the photo was crop a little extra space off the bottom and left-hand side. This gives the photo a more balanced composition. The sand shouldn’t be the first thing the eye lands on. I also rotated it one or two degrees counter-clockwise to even out the horizon line (Image>Rotate Canvas>Arbitrary). These are very important steps and I recommend doing them first. (And if I hadn’t been trying to keep up polite conversation with the person showing me around, I might have even gotten it right when I took the photo.) Then I had a play in Curves (Ctrl+M or Image>Adjustments>Curves). This is a very powerful tool which, used appropriately and subtly, can create more “pop” and intensity in a bland photo. It can take a while to get the hang of, but for me, the best results are often obtained by creating two or three “pins” and dragging the line so it creates a kind of subtle S-curve like this: / / Here’s roughly how Curves works: the line represents darker tones towards the bottom and left, and lighter ones towards the top and right. So, for example, if you drag the top part of the line down, it’ll make the highlights darker; and if you drag it upwards, your bright spots will be ever brighter. Be very careful, though, not to blow out any highlights or over-darken the dark spaces. It’s easy to get carried away with the Curves tool and make your photo look pretty ridiculous. Next, I used the Replace Color tool (Image>Adjustments>Replace Color) to make my chairs a little brighter without oversaturating the blue sky. Here, you just use the dropper to select which color you’d like to alter, and make sure the “Fuzziness” slider on the Replace Color window is increased as much as possible without starting to apply to stuff you don’t want it to. Here it’s simple because there is only one pink and one green area in my photo. All I did was “grab” each color with the dropper, and slightly increase the saturation. (It might be a bug in my version of Photoshop, but you might have to close out the window, then open it again to start working on a new color.) Again, this is something you have to get the hang of, but after a while it becomes second nature. I also cloned out one or two swimmers in the distant water. Not much more than a dot or two of cloning was necessary – they were only large enough to be spots in my lovely blue water. The last, and most important thing, I did with this image was – I guess it’s pretty obvious – give it a nice sky. I kind of liked the simplicity of the plain blue sky in the original, but I wanted the image to be special. I was lucky enough to have a similar photo of the clouds, taken on the same beach but on another day. I chose it because the size, depth and lighting were mostly correct already. I had to slightly alter the color to make it match the “feel” of the original photo. Here is my new sky in its primitive form. My original sky is also a very simple one to replace. The only thing sticking into the sky area is my duo of beach chairs. (If it had been a more complicated horizon, I would have probably opted for a smooth blue sky.) My chosen method for this simple replacement was simply to Clone the new sky overtop of the other old one. (There are more complex and useful ways utilizing Layers but there is really no need for that now. Plus, I don’t know how to use those ways.) This method won’t work every time, so you’ll need to size up your options to see how you’re going to create your masterpiece. If the sky to be replaced is very simple, with not a lot of complications like trees or people or other things in front of it, then you are golden. Lastly, I did a little bit of final tweaking to the entire image to make everything feel right. That included a bit of dodging and burning in my clouds, a slight saturation increase overall, and a couple of tiny clone jobs to get rid of a few blades of grass apparently growing out of the ocean (courtesy of the foreground of my new sky). You’ll have to work with this on your own photo and see what looks best. Every photo is different, and every path from good to great is totally unique. Here is my final product again, which took me a little less than a half-hour from start to finish. / Rhapsody in Blue Thanks so much for reading!
Here’s a cool way to boost the Saturation of your photo. Open your photo in photoshop and convert it to LAB color mode. IMAGE/MODE/LAB CO…
Here’s a cool way to boost the Saturation of your photo. Open your photo in photoshop and convert it to LAB color mode. IMAGE/MODE/LAB COLOR. In the layers pallette click on “channels” and you will see : LAB-LIGHTNESS-A-B. Highlight the A channel only, LAB, LIGHTNESS & B are all turned off. Now navigate to IMAGE/APPLY IMAGE and set the blending to “soft light”. Click ok. Now do the same thing to the B channel. Click OK. adjust the LIGHTNESS only channel to your liking using levels or curves image adjustment. Now return your photo to RGB color mode : IMAGE/MODE/RGB COLOR. You’re done David Akers
I would be grateful for help or advice re my camera and my lens: EF Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 IS L series They got wet on a shoot, due…
I would be grateful for help or advice re my camera and my lens: EF Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 IS L series They got wet on a shoot, due to heavy rain (according to Canon`s description they are both suited for the toughest weather conditions on a daily basis) the camera stopped working, the lens glass covered in condensation so I could not use them for the shoot The following day the camera still wouldn`t work and the error code 01 continued to display, even when I applied other L series lenses, and the lens was saturated on the inside I managed to remove some excess water but most of the glass elements are stained and the aperture blades make a loud friction-type sound whenever I use pretty much any camera function including On Off and also when mounted on my Canon D40 The camera and lens are still in this state (approx 36 hours later) I have tried to let them dry out at room temperature If anyone has any advice or suggestions or has experienced a similar problem I would love to hear from you and am grateful for any help BTW Happy Easter! Thanks / Franco
I’ve taken a set of about 100 snaps or so in Morpeth, Northumberland last week. I’m still in my hyperexcited HDR state at present and I’m…
I’ve taken a set of about 100 snaps or so in Morpeth, Northumberland last week. I’m still in my hyperexcited HDR state at present and I’m still experimenting with Photomatix, so these 100 shots are really over 300 exposures. Because I have been at work all week and even in my free time I don’t really have much time to spend on processing pics sometimes it seems they’re really taking long. Thank God I have now finished tweaking saturations and smoothings and I am now just in the process of cropping them and saving them to a decent size for the web (so far half of them are still 58 Mb tiffs). So hopefully in the next few days I can add some more work and slowly inject them into my favourite groups on redbubble. i’m quite happy with my work although I am a bit tired of how emphatic lens glare becomes when tone mapped, even if you’re subtle. I bought a new hood for my lens to minimize it from now on but we’ll see… Sometimes the effect is quite funky but other times it can be quite distracting, especially when the colours are very bright and you don’t want to reduce the saturation of that colour because it takes away from nearby details… RUBBISH!!! We’ll see what the future brings anyway. I hope that when i post them they will be liked. See you all soon. Back to work now… Jeremy
*Hey guys several people on Red Bubble have asked me what do I do to a shot to improve on it. So this is what I do and it is surprising …
Hey guys several people on Red Bubble have asked me what do I do to a shot to improve on it. So this is what I do and it is surprising how much it helps the shot and it is only basic editing. With the shot open in Photoshop Elements 7 I will increase the; Contrast, Hugh/saturation, burn / Dodge, sharpness, sometimes a crop, Resize. / A lot of the time a shot can look dull or flat and it may only need the contrast to be slightly boosted and this can be easily altered in Photoshop just by increasing the contrast slider a little. Go to Levels Move the middle slider to the left will increase the contrast. To improve on the colour in my shots; Go to Hugh/saturation and individually alter the colours a bit by bit. Sometimes my skies may need a little darkening so I; *Go to the burn tool making the sky darker. Anytime I work on a shot which needs a little tweak here or there I do this: I open the shot I want in FULL EDIT Go to LAYER then DUPLICATE LAYER Most of the time I may have to alter the contrast in LEVELS or darken the shot or brighten it slightly. Then go to HUE / SATUATRATION and move the individual sliders to alter the colours. Then I go to LAYERS and FLATTEN IMAGE Then go back to LAYER then DUPLICATE LAYER Then I will go to ENHANCE and UNSHARPE MASK Now depending on the shot I may use a lot of sharpness but I have the AMOUNT SET FOR AROUND 150 TO 200% The RADIUS set to 1.0 pixels And the THRESHOLD set to 0 levels. Then I will go to IMAGE – RESIZE – IMAGE SIZE. Pixel Dimensions: Width I always set to 4000 – 5500 pixels And Resolution 300 pixels / inch This will make the shot bigger. Just go to FIT SCREEN to make it look better for more work if needed. Then I go to LAYERS and FLATTEN IMAGE FILE and CLOSE SAVE CHANGES – YES SAVE AS COPY – YES IMAGE OPTIONS QUALITY: 12 MAXIMUM which is a large file. OK Now I copy the shot with a right click of the mouse and store the shot in another file on the desktop to make it easy to find when I want to upload it to Bubble. I will rename it leaving .jpeg at the end of the file name and that’s it. So this is what I normally will do to each and every shot I upload to bubble or anywhere else. These places ask for our best work so I give them my best work. Sometimes you will have to play around with the things I have mentioned above to get it right but that is only because EVERY shot can be different so need different work done on it. Sometimes I will leave the ENHANCE and UNSHARPE MASK out it just depends on your shot but try to add a little contrast and colour each time for a better shot. Just remember, this is what I do – other things may work better for you but the thing to do is have fun experimenting.
Congrats to the artists that were featured on today’s homepage. I had a wonderful time browsing through the awesome high key images here …
Congrats to the artists that were featured on today’s homepage. I had a wonderful time browsing through the awesome high key images here on the bubble. So many to choose from, was hard to narrow it down. Thanks to RED for selecting the group.
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