Photography photoshopped
1665 creative works found
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Photographic based digital montage, 2007 (no 2 from series of 3 re-worked). Shot two seperate models & combined them. Draw in & enhanced part of the headpeice, body, dress, added fringe to face, made the features more angular, blew up lips, created cheekbones, reworked branches, filtered wallpaper effects, extended chandelier, added lacework/flower elements, desaturated & added a sepia tone. Approximately 50 Photoshop layers.
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Photographic based digital montage, 2007 (1 from series of 6 – redesigned from 2004/5 Japanese Series) Shot the tree, flowers, roses, birds, combined with drawn elements & filtered the lot. Approximately 50 Photoshop layers.
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P/S Retouched by Ange in collaboration with Ingrid Sjodahl. Digital photograph shot by Greg Parsons in collaboration with Ingrid Sjodahl, 2007. Models: Liz, Greg Parsons. Retouched face, hair & recreated arched eyebrows for further definition – left eye was opened up to match right eye. Ingrid added b/w desaturated tone, painted lips, corset bodice lace & sheet in red tone. Original shot below.
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Photographic based digital montage, 2007 (1 from series of 6 – redesigned from 2004/5 Japanese Series). Re-worked combining two from the series. Shot the tree, flowers & combined them in P/S with drawn elements & filtered the lot. Approximately 50 Photoshop layers. Generally I tire of my artwork yet still love this series to this day.
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In the summer, my backyard is full of butterflies Background blurred in Photoshop 7 © Cadence Gamache
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/ ...................................................................................................... / / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-- A little photoshop fun to an old Infrared Shot / Northfiled Ohio Infrared Shot / Canon Powershot S3 IS / IR Filter / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—- / Click to View By Category: / -—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-— / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Downtown Cleveland ............................................................................................................... / ................................................................................................................
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/ ................................................................................ / An Infrared shot I took in black and white and it gave it a look like there is a storm coming. It was a bit windy at the time as well. / Enjoy. / Canon Powershot S3 with Hoya IR Filter / f/4 / 6 seconds / 14mm / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—- / Click to View By Category: / -—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-— / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Downtown Cleveland ...............................................................................................................
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So I’m afraid that a close-up of an eye with various work in photoshop may be a bit cliché- but enough people have done it that I don’t have a particular example to credit as my inspiration. Created in photoshop with a picture I took of my eye (next to the sink :) ) and a picture of a campfire from this summer. I now also have a second in a series of element eye images Awash – let me know what you think, I think I like Ablaze better but it will be cool when I have all of them… /
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Photo Manipulation (Mirrored Symmetry). Original image taken at Adelaide Zoo, South Australia. /
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The flower and the wall. Took picture of both and mixed it up somehow. Photoshop, layers, textures, filters.
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When the mood takes you, and she looks and smells good enough to eat… feast in the lap of the lover that stole your soul, feast at the feet of the Goddess.
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All photographs and artworks in this portfolio are copyrighted and owned by the artist, Anne Staub. Any reproduction, modification, publication, transmission, transfer, or exploitation of any of the content, for personal or commercial use, whether in whole or in part, without written permission from myself is prohibited. All rights reserved.
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Beautiful Eye Tutorial
by Sue NueckelThis is an older Tutorial I created while I was on Deviant Art…It proved to be very popular so I thought Id share it here with my favou…
This is an older Tutorial I created while I was on Deviant Art…It proved to be very popular so I thought Id share it here with my favourite Redbubblers :D / If you have any questions please feel free to post them here :) Below are some of my works in which Ive used this effect / Click images to go to full view
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a little fun in photoshop and a big hooray for 2am galavanting with MissMiller
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our lovely little miss milly doesn’t like to miss out on much, i think she would jump in if she was a bit bigger… taken with a nikon D80 + 50 mm 1.4 nikkor lens – hand held single image shutter speed: 1/60 / ISO: 100 / f/stop: f/4 / processed in photoshop cs3 using topaz (hdr filter) layer with opacity dropped back sold a large framed print – thanks to the lovely buyer :-) and here she is after her bath… Featured in: / Family Unlimited / Childhood / Freedom to Shine / Paw’s n claws / jpg cast offs / Capturing emotions / Kairos / People and portraiture / HDR photography / Queensland / Graphic Editing 101 / 4 Winners Only / Brisbane Sout-East Queensland / Good News Group / Canon v’s Nikon
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BEST VIEWED LARGE (you can left-click once on the image) Photo composite / Images taken with Motorazr V9 mobile phone / -2 exposure / Post-processed in Photoshop CS4 / Group Features: ‘All In Editing’ – July 2009 ‘Retro Conglomerate’ – July 2009 ‘Mobile Phone Capture for a Mobile Life’ – July 2009 ‘Domestic Art’ – August 2009 / ... Top Ten Winner in the ‘A Single Seat’ Challenge in the ‘Tables & Chairs’ group – September 2009 Top Ten Winner in the ‘Avatar’ Challenge in the ‘Domestic Art’ group – October 2009 Top Ten Winner in the ‘Staged’ Challenge in ‘The Woman Photographer’ group – October 2009
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This is my beautiful friend Nathalie, in a Tara-style portrait….all photos and textures used my own, with the exception of the original photo of Nat. :) The brightly coloured background image is a pastel drawing my girls and I did together a few weeks ago. All images combined using Photoshop Elements 2.0. Canon Powershot A480 point and shoot for butterfly and textures. Proudly New Zealand-made. :) Uploaded July 27, 2009. SOLD – Four greeting cards of this image, July 2009. Featured in The Patchwork July 27, 2009. / Featured in All The Colours Of The Rainbow July 27, 2009. / Featured in #1 Artists of RedBubble July 27, 2009. / Featured in Eye Macros July 29, 2009. / Featured in Accentuate the Eyes Aug 4, 2009. / Featured in The Scavenger Hunt Aug 16, 2009. / Featured in The Divine Feminine Aug 25, 2009. / Featured in The Dutch Connection Nov 11, 2009. / Featured in All Original Blends Nov 14, 2009.
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Working with layers - The Basics
by Rosemary ScottI was recently asked to explain how I use layers. So while trying to put my thoughts together, I decided I might as well share it with ev…
I was recently asked to explain how I use layers. So while trying to put my thoughts together, I decided I might as well share it with everyone who’s interested. I’ll show how to do very basic adjustments so you get a feel for how layers work. Once you’re comfortable with that you can move on to using layers to create art effects. Please keep in mind that I’m a Photoshop user... I’m in no way an expert! / This is just my way of working with layers. There are many different ways, & they all work. Why use layers ? : / Our reasons for using layers are many & varied. We might be doing vector-like illustrations, Or composing an intricate fantasy photomanipulation. / It may be a simple matter of applying text over an image. / You may just want to do basic tone & colour adjustments of your photographs. / Whatever your reason, using layers is almost essential. / I say this for one very important reason. If you apply adjustments of any type to your original image, you will be altering it permanently. There’s no going back. Pixels get moved around & destroyed, every brush or keystroke seriously alters the quality of your image. / However, working in layers is non-destructive. The original image sits at the bottom of your stack, untouched, unaltered, safe from damage. / All of your edits are stacked on top of the original, & then “flattened”, usually upon completion, or when you’re ready to move on to the next stage of editing. I’ll use this image of a bunch of people looking a Trojan warplane, to demonstrate the basics of using layers. / I’m using PS CS3, & I’m not sure how similar the layout of PS Elements is, so this will either be helpful to you, or just confusing…. it should be fairly similar though. Let’s get started : 1) Open your image in Photoshop, & save it straight away as a psd (Photoshop file format) I’ve decided to call this one “enter the trojan”. / 2) Now have a good look at the image & decide what needs doing. / Does it needs cropping? Some people choose to crop at the start, but for some strange reason I’ll often wait until I’m somewhere through my editing process. I like to wait to see how the image is evolving…. Does anything need cloning out? / This image has a rather annoying person disappearing out of the left side of the frame, so Ill be getting rid of him, as well as cleaning up a few distracting white spots on the airfield in the background. 3) Look to the right of your screen & you’ll see your layers palette. / At the top right of that you’ll see 3 little horizontal lines stacked on top of each other with an arrow next to them. Left click on this & you’ll get a drop-down box. this is your most important box for using layers. Click on duplicate layer, & rename it as you wish. / I’m calling it “clone”. / / You’ll see the duplicate layer appear above the background layer in your layers palette. / / Make sure the clone layer is selected (it’ll be highlighted in grey), & you’re ready to work on that layer. / Now select your clone tool & go to work. All done? If you’re happy with your work make sure you save. Now, remembering what I said about your background (original) layer remaining untouched, here’s a little demo. / Do you see that little eye beside your “clone” layer? / Click on it…. Hello!! Your cloning has gone! Click on it again….. it’s back!!! / OK, we could have fun with this all day, but do you see how the background image is unchanged? Cool huh? Let’s move on…. I’ve got blown out highlights in my clouds which are a problem & the mid-tones are a bit too dark. / I’ll deal with the clouds first by using a curves adjustment layer. 4) All the way down at the bottom of your layers palette, you’ll see a toolbar. look for the circle that’s half black & half white. / This is the “create new fill or adjustment layer” button. / Click on it & select “curves”. / 5) Grab the little white dot on the line in the top right corner. Now drag it a smidgen down to the right. That should take care of the blown out clouds. / Click OK. / / Do you see you now have a curves layer? / (Because I use CS3, it automatically gives me a layer mask box on this layer. It’s that white box in your curves layer. But we’re not going to get into masks today) Now to fix the mid-tones. For this I’m going to add a Levels layer. / 6) Just like in step 4), click on the “create new fill or adjustment layer” button & this time select “Levels”. / 7) This will open a box with a levels histogram in it. / To lighten your mid-tones slide the grey arrow in the middle of the histogram to the left until you’re happy. / Click OK, & you’ll see your levels layer sitting above the curves layer. Now, what if you wanted to do some dodge & burn? / There’s a number of ways to dodge & burn, so I’ll show you one that I use quite often. 8) Remember those 3 little horizontal lines that you clicked on to duplicate the layer? (step 3) / Click on that again, & this time select “New Layer”. / 9) In the dialogue box, change the name to “dodge & burn”, / click on the “mode” dropdown box, & select “overlay”, / then check the box “Fill with overlay-neutral color (50% gray) / it should look something like this : / / Then click OK. You’ll now see a layer called “dodge & burn” in your layers palette. It should be on the top of the pile. If it isn’t, simply drag it to the top. / Any work you do to the top layer will be carried over to all the layers below. 10) Select your burn tool, set your range to Shadows, & Exposure around 20 (this will depend completely upon the type of image you’re working on), then get to work burning out the areas that you feel need deepening. 11) Then take your dodge tool, set your Exposure to around 20 & work over the areas that you think need a little more highlighting. I’ve decided this image needs a bit more saturation. 12) Go back to the black/white circle (as mentioned in step 4), & this time look for Hue/Saturation. / / Adjust your sliders as you see fit, then click OK. / At this stage I’m happy with my basic adjustments. It’s now at the stage where it’s ready for me to use it as a background image for something a little more creative. 13) If you haven’t been saving until now, you really must do it now. 14) Now we’re going to Flatten the file. / Go to those 3 little horizontal lines with the arrow again (step 3), & this time look for “Flatten Image”. / / Click on it. You’ll see that all your layers have been “flattened into just one layer, & it’s now become your new background layer. If you’re planning to print this, you’ll need to give it some sharpening. / There are so many ways to sharpen, but at the moment I’m a bit partial to using the “high pass” filter. 15) To do this you’ll need to use a duplicate layer (remember step 3?) / I’m re-naming it “High Pass Sharpening”. / 16) Go to your “filter” drop down box on your top tool bar, & select, “other”, “high pass”. / 17) Adjust your radius slider until you see a good amount of line detail while keeping the tones in gray. Click OK. / You’re probably wondering what’s happened to your image. We’ll fix that right now. 18) Look above your “high pass” layer, & you’ll see Opacity set at 100%, to the left of that the word “normal” in a drop-down box. / Click on that drop-down box & select “overlay”. / / Presto! You’ve got your image back, & it’s been sharpened. / Toggle the “eye” off & on to see the effect. 19) If it’s too sharpened for your taste, you can adjust the opacity of that layer. / Find the “opacity” slider above the layer, & adjust it as you like. / I’m setting this one to 50%. / 20) Save this as a new psd file ( I’m calling this one “enter the trojan HP sharp”), & flatten it as before. / 21) Now all you need to do is save it in the Format of choice. / I routinely save all my images as TIFF files, & then save again as JPEG. / Remember to do all you backups now so you don’t forget later. All finished! Now you have an image that is fine as is, or ready for you to get a little creative & do further editing. / The final image : / You might also want to look at Texturing an Image in Photoshop for Absolute Beginners for further editing ideas. [ One last point : I put a lot of time & effort into creating these tutorials. Please don’t disrespect me by claiming them as your own.]
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Photography Campus tutorial: How to use layer blend modes in Photoshop
by Melinda KerrHi Guys. / Some of you may know I’ve recently started writing for DESKTOP magazine about all things photography and photography post produ…
Hi Guys. / Some of you may know I’ve recently started writing for DESKTOP magazine about all things photography and photography post production. I am ‘soon’ going to launch an on line learning portal (subscription based) called the Photography Campus which will have video tutorials about photography & videography by real live working professionals. Anyway, I promised a few people that I’d put the articles up here once they’d gone to print. So here’s the November issues article: How to use layer blend modes in Photoshop. As creative folk, we have a wonderful knack of ignoring things when they get too technical. / For most of us, our left brain left years ago, tired of the lack of love and relentless mocking from its hyperactive sibling, the right brain. / It’s little wonder then, so many software functions are overlooked due to their, eeky – geeky – speakiness. / Take the layer blending modes in Photoshop. They promise so much with fancy names like multiply, hard light, dissolve and luminosity. Yet a quick look in many Photoshop help files reveal evil words like algorithms, percentages and the arch rival of all creatives..Maths. Urgh. / In fact the layer blend modes are little rippers when it comes to fixing images and creating interesting effects. They’re non destructive, versatile and quite frankly everywhere. (Seriously they breed like rabbits in Photoshop). / And here’s the thing. You don’t actually have to understand all of them to use them. / By in large understanding the theory of only a handful will have you speaking fluent blending modes and impressing your arty-farty-party friends in no time. Now for some maths you’ll really like. Sure there’s 25 layer blend modes listed in the drop down menu of PS CS4, but in reality they fit into 6 sections and truth be told there’s only 3 you really need to understand. Check out this diagram. The three sections you’ll use the most are the darken section, lighten section and the contrast section. In these groups if you understand one mode, you pretty much understand them all. Here’s how do they work. In short blending modes effect the way the top layer blends with the layer below it. Depending on which blend mode you choose, you can make images look lighter, darker, more contrasty, a different colour or a handful of other styles. / The first group in our layer blends diagram we’ve called ‘whatever’ because it’s not really all that interesting. / Normal is well, normal – as in default, as in 100% opaque, as in nothing exciting to see here…move on. / Dissolve is kind of like the annoying guy at the party. He has one trick (reproduces pixels randomly so things look a little pointilized) and pretty much that’s it. It’s probably not something you’ll use much if ever unless you are that annoying guy, in which case, go away. / The ‘dark’ section modes you will use a lot. They ignore white but blend the dark and black pixels, thereby making an image look darker. The Lighten modes ignore black but blend the lighter colours thus the making an image lighter. The contrast modes ignore mid grey but still blend the light and dark pixels and as such / create contrast. / To see it work in practice, here’s an experiment you can do yourself. 1. Create a Photoshop file. / Make sure it has 2 layers. The top layer has a 100% black object, a 50% grey object and a 100% white object. / The bottom layer is green. Your layers should look like this: 2. Choose the top layer and go to the layer blend mode. Choose Multiply…but wait before you do, ask yourself…if multiply comes from the ‘dark’ layer group what will the result be? Yup you guessed it, it will ignore white pixels, so as you see the white object disappears, the 100% black remains the same because you can’t get darker than that and the 50% grey object makes / the pixels below it darker. Therefore the entire image becomes darker. It will look like this: 3. Now choose Lighten. It ignores black so the 100% black disappears, the 100% white remains because you can’t get lighter than that and the everything below the 50% grey goes lighter. As such the entire image gets lighter. The image should look like this: 4. Finally, choose overlay. It ignores 50% grey, so the grey object disappears and the white and black objects remain. Thus the image will show greater contrast. See: By understanding these three modes you effectively have a good idea of how others in their sections work (give or take a few discrepancies…) If you include normal and annoying dissolve that’s 19 out of 25 sorted before you’ve even ordered your second chai latte. / As for the other blends, rather than us explain them, here’s a way to see their effect with a nifty little keyboard shortcut. / Choose your move tool (V). Make sure the top layer is chosen in the layers box. Hold down the shift key and press the – and + tools. This will scroll through every layer blend style and give you an instant preview of what happens with each one. / So now you know the theory how can you use it in practice? / The most obvious use is to fix exposure. / Here we have Jessie the wonder dog posing in an overexposed shot. Because she’s black and white she provides a good test case. / Firstly we create a new layer above our background layer. We can either just press cmd or ctrl j to duplicate the original layer, or if you wish to keep file size down, you can just choose a Levels adjustment layer and leave it untouched. It will ‘inherit’ the information on the bottom layer and allow you to work the blend modes just as effectively. / We want to blend the darker pixels whilst leaving the whites alone. So we activate the top layer and choose multiply. Shazam instant gratification. You can also try out the other modes in the Darken section to see the variations you can achieve. Here’s the before and after: Jess before multiply: Jess after multiply: Ok let’s try an underexposed shot. And this time we’ll use the Linear Dodge mode form out ‘Lighten’ section. Jess before Linear Dodge: After: Finally in the following shot Jess is exposed OK but looks awfully flat. She needs contrast and that means a mode from the contrast section. Try Overlay. Much better. Before Overlay: After Overlay: Once you’ve used a blend mode you can use it immediately again to ‘multiply’ the effect of it. You can also use the most well known blend mode of all – the opacity slider. Say I wanted to lighten the underexposed shot even more, I could go blend > lighten. Then create duplicate layer of that new layer and choose blend > lighten again. If two blends were too much, I could simply dull down the second blend my decreasing its opacity, effectively creating a ‘blend and a half’. / As an example of using multiple blend modes in the same file check out the following shot. The shot on the left (of a hot rock pool at Yellowstone National Park) is the original shot straight out of the camera. The shot on the right was achieved by combining a mix of layer blends just from the 3 main sections we’ve talked / about; darken, lighten and contrast along with the opacity slider. Some blends were used more than once. / In fifteen minutes we had the shot on the right. It could do with more work but it does show you what’s possible in a short period of time. BEFORE (straight out of the camera): AFTER: I did use a couple of quick layer masks in there as well to determine which part of the image the blend mode affected. What are layer masks you ask? Well, that’s for the December issue of DESKTOP. / In the meantime happy shooting and remember, with any program fear not the names of the processes, just experiment with them until you find what works for you. Then gloat. Some keyboard shortcuts relevant to this article: Use the corresponding number on your keyboard to set the opacity level, eg want 80% opacity? Press 8. / 50% press 5 etc. You get the picture (and yes you can have that pun for free). / To duplicate a layer press CTRL + J (WIN) CMD + J (Mac) / To cycle through blend modes: Press the move tool (V). Holding down the shift key and pressing the plus or minus key lets you toggle through the blend modes. If you’ve made it this far congrats! They key is just muck around and have fun :) / Follow my photo tips & news on Twitter @photocampus
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