P/S Retouched by Ange. Digital photograph shot by Jerry Kang in Surry Hills, Sydney, 2007. Model: J.Y. Retouched eyes (creating cat eyed effect), enhanced lips, defined eyebrows, enhanced cheekbones, airbrushed face & lengthened body. Extended foreground of shot. Added desaturated tone & curve adjustment. Original shot below.
Taken with an infrared filter without setting camera to B&W. / I really like the color of this picture / ................................................................................................................. / Click to View By Category: / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Christmas Cards / ............................................................................................................... /
Infrared picture taken near sunset / Picture taken in color through IR filter / Canon Powershot Click to View By Category: / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Halloween Cards / - Amazing Thunderbird Photos
Rain Drops Image Details: / Camera – Canon EOS33 / Lens – 100mm Macro USM (1x) / Film – Fuji Velvia 100 Professional / Focal length – 100mm / Exposure – Apeture Priority / Aperture – Not recorded / Shutter – Not recorded / ISO – 100 / Transperancy scanned using CanoScan 5000F scanner / Photoshop modified / / © Andrew Brown Cards / Urban and Architecture / Panorama / Landscape / Portraiture / Macro / / / /
Canon Powershot with IR filter “As Is” / Brandywine Falls Ohio / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-— / I have been waiting for this kind of shot for a long time. The storms were fierce with a ton of rain last night. I decided to take of work and spend the day at the falls near my house. I must have snapped 200 pictures today. What a great day!! I found a new toy its my infrared lens. Of course I have many different shots just like this :-) I posted a photo in color as well at a different time called – Approaching / Autumn / ....................................................................................................................... / / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—- / Click to View By Category: / -—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-— / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Downtown Cleveland ............................................................................................................... / ................................................................................................................ /
/ —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—- / Click to View By Category: / -—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-— / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Downtown Cleveland ...............................................................................................................
Shot With Canon 400D – “AS IS” / Chagrin Falls Ohio / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-- / Click to View By Category: / Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Christmas Cards / - Halloween Cards / ............................................................................................................... /
Click to View By Category: / - Waterfall Photos / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Halloween Cards / - Christmas Cards
/ Evening
/ ...................................................................................................... / / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-- A little photoshop fun to an old Infrared Shot / Northfiled Ohio Infrared Shot / Canon Powershot S3 IS / IR Filter / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—- / Click to View By Category: / -—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-— / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Downtown Cleveland ............................................................................................................... / ................................................................................................................
/ ................................................................................ / Canon 400D / A photo of a flower taken at the Franklin Observatory in Columbus Ohio Click to View By Category: / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / ............................................................................................................... / / ...............................................................................................................
/ ................................................................................ / An Infrared shot I took in black and white and it gave it a look like there is a storm coming. It was a bit windy at the time as well. / Enjoy. / Canon Powershot S3 with Hoya IR Filter / f/4 / 6 seconds / 14mm / —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—- / Click to View By Category: / -—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-— / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / - Downtown Cleveland ...............................................................................................................
/ ...................................................................................................... / The Heartbeat of America. / The New Chevy Camaro I believe due out in 2009 / The Camaro was seen in the Transformers Movie / Canon Digital 400D / Taken at Cleveland Autoshow / ......................................................................................................... / Click to View By Category: / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / ............................................................................................................... /
/ ............................................................................. / This is one of those shots, at least for me, when you get it home and see it on the computer screen you are just interested in why you shot it this way, and it is a totally different perspective. / .............................................................................. / Mode = Shutter Priority / TV = 1/6 / AV = 20 / 115 MM / ................................................................................ / Shot using a Canon Digital Rebel XTI 400D / ................................................................................ / Click to View By Category: / - Waterfall Photos / - Selective Coloring / - Infrared Photos / - Black and White Photos / - Animal Photos / ............................................................................................................... / / ............................................................................................................... /
Friday August 3rd It happened again tonight. The old fool had left the door unlocked; and there, above the cages, some apparently empty and some housing pink-eyed rodents; stood the vessel containing the precious green liquid and marked with the words: “NOT FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION” once more, at my disposal. Thanks to yesterday’s acquisition of a rather splendid pocketwatch, I have been able to establish that administration of about 2floz of the serum is sufficient to remain effective for approximately two hours. I have thus resolved that, weather permitting, tomorrow’s edification will begin with the short trip into town whereupon I will partake in what will no doubt be another fruitful bout of “shopping”, after which with any luck, there will be ample time for a spot of inexpensive dining followed by a close inspection of the ample figures belonging to those delightful ladies up there at Pedlar’s Lane bathhouse, whom I understand,usually prefer to keep themselves hidden away from prying eyes. Dash it… Awfully sorry ladies!
Hosier Lane in Melbourne, Australia. A result of 9 images (3 HDR’s) done in Photomatix. Merged the HDR’s in photoshop using automate > Photomerge. Took the photos quick as it was around midnight in a dark alley… Sales 1 Greeting Card 1 Framed Print 2 Canvas Prints 1 Greeting Card 1 Mounted Print 1 Laminated Print 1 Poster This work has had over 6000 views :) Click here for my other images of laneways and graffiti Click here for my other images of Melbourne !
Quite a few people have asked me how I do my textured work. / To be honest, everyone does it their own way, but it helps to have someone s…
Quite a few people have asked me how I do my textured work. / To be honest, everyone does it their own way, but it helps to have someone show you how to get started. / Nicole Goggins taught me, & I believe Mel Brackstone taught her. (apologies if I got that wrong) / Of course there’s always an alternative way of doing the steps, I’ve certainly changed my technique quite a bit since I wrote this, but this is as good a place to start as any. / So here’s the walkthrough that I’ve passed on to those who’ve asked. LETS GET STARTED : I use PhotoShop CS3, but this’ll work with any version. / If you’re not using PS, I’m confident you’ll be able to find your way through it in whatever program you’re using. I’d suggest printing this so you can follow it step by step. 1) Start by opening the image that you want to add a texture to. 2) In the layers palette on the right, (R) click on the background layer & select “Duplicate layer”. This layer will be called “Background copy”, & will sit immediately above the “background” layer. (This is to preserve your original copy) 3) Do whatever adjustments you would usually do until you’re happy with the image as it is. ( ie – levels, curves, hue/sat, curves etc ) 4) Flatten the image - / To do this, go to the Layers palette® click on a layer, & select “Flatten image”. 5)Now it’s time to apply the texture image. / First, you need to make sure that your texture image is the same size as your background image. / To do this :- / Go to your top toolbar & look for the “Image” tab, & click on it. / Then click on “Image Size”. / You’ll need to write down the following details : Pixel dimensions – Width & Height , & Resolution. / Click OK or Cancel to close that window. 6) Now go to your top tool bar, click on “File” & “Open” your texture image. 7)Now that you’re in your texture image, go to “Image”, “Image Size” again, & make sure “Resample Image” is checked, & “Constrain Proportions” is unchecked.. / In that same window, change the resolution & Pixel dimensions – Width & Height to the same details that you wrote down earlier. / Click “OK”. / Now your texture image is the same as your background image. 8) Minimize the texture image. Do not close it, just minimize it. / Now you should see your background image workspace again. 9) In your background again, go to your layers palette & create a “Background copy” like we did in step (2). 10) Go to the little toolbar on the bottom of the “Layers Palette” & look for the little icon that looks like a square with the bottom left corner turning up. / This is the “Create new layer” button. / Click on this & create a new layer, which you can rename to “texture”. / Make sure this layer is active. ( it’ll be highlighted in grey) 11) Go to “Image”, then “Apply Image”. / Now you’ll see a window with a dropdown box named “Source” at the top. / Look for your texture image in the dropdown box , select it, & click “OK”. / You’ll see the texture appear in the “texture” layer that you created in step (10). Now it’s time to get creative….. 12) In the layers palette double click on the little thumbnail image of your texture. / You’ll get a window called “Layer Style”. / Under “Blending Options”, “General blending” you’ll see that the current blend mode is “normal”. / Click on this dropbox & start experimenting with the different blend modes. / I usually use “overlay”, “soft light”, or “hard light”. / This whole “Layer style” window is one you can experiment with as much as you like until you come up with the look you want. / Click “OK” when you’re done. 13) You can change the blend mode of your background copy also. / At this stage you just need to be doing whatever you want to achieve the look you like. 14) For a bit more depth to your texturing, you can try duplicating each layer, & then alternate their order on the palette by dragging them up & down. / eg :- texture copy / background copy 2 / texture / background copy / background (this one is locked, so will always remain on the bottom) 15) In the Layers palette you can adjust the “opacity” of each layer for more or less of the effect. 16) Don’t forget to save as you go. / I like to save all my layers as a psd (Photoshop document) so that I can make changes to it at any time in the future. / When you have a final image that you like, flatten the image ( as in step 4), & “save as” a jpeg. (or your preferred format) 17) Upload to redbubble so that we can all see how well you’ve done!!!! And that’s it! Just remember that there’s no “rules” for this….. a lot of it is just experimenting as you go. What works for one image might look horrid on another, so trust your instincts! [ One last point : I put a lot of time & effort into creating these tutorials. Please don’t disrespect me by claiming them as your own.]
This is a digital matte painting created 100% with photographic origin. No computer generated graphics were used and I am in possession of all the original photos used to create this image. All photos taken in and around Sydney, Australia with a Canon 1D. Tanya Rochat 2008 NSW Professional Photographer of the Year Please view my profile and visit my blog or join my newsletter as I post about my journey and thoughts as an artist.
This is a digital matte painting created 100% with photographic origin. No computer generated graphics were used and I am in possession of all the original photos used to create this image. All photos taken in and around Sydney, Australia with a Canon 1D. The composite consists of 10’s to 100’s of photos to get the right angles and mood. Water from the ocean on a calm morning with no waves around the rock pools. Domes and architecture from buildings around Sydney. (QVB, University) Rock formations from beaches and old quarries such as found in Kiama. The main ingredient : TIME and then some! Tanya Rochat 2008 NSW Professional Photographer of the Year Please view my profile and visit my blog or join my newsletter as I post about my journey and thoughts as an artist.
this is how i see your mind, dear friend. i wish i could have spent more time on this, but even if i had, i would still not have been able to capture the splendour of your thoughts. / 29 august 2009.
FAVOURED BY 44 PEOPLE AWARDED:HIGHLY COMMENDED and BEST EDI of month at MELBOURNE CAMERA CLUB/AUSTRALIA. HERE JUDGE: Bronwen Casey from the Southern Suburbs Photographic Society !! FEATURED in LIVE LOVE and DREAM / FEATURED in BITS and PIECES / FEATURED in ALL In / EDITING / FEATURED in ART of INTRIGUE / FEATURED ABSTRACT DIGITAL ART & WRITING GROUP CREATIVE SOULS/by invitation only FEATURED BEIGE is DEATH Publlshed in a photographic journal/EXPOSURE/OCT ‘09 To be viewed on the APS website SOON as part of an on-line magazine. This is a one off image and no longer available for print. I have not felt such excitement about photography since I was in SHANGHAI and saw my 1st serious FUSED IMAGES on the cover of the very famous CHINESE magazine ” that’s shanghai” ........well only famous in China and Shanghai! BALLARAT INTERNATIONAL PHOTO BIENNALE /SEPT. ‘09 The 11th Image…...”Bi-Polar / . FUSIONartPHOTOGRAPHY.com / FOTO PLEASE ENTER for just a moment…..I know that the face behind the mask flew out and seemed to grasp me by the throat with their unexpected behaviour .
I was recently asked to explain how I use layers. So while trying to put my thoughts together, I decided I might as well share it with ev…
I was recently asked to explain how I use layers. So while trying to put my thoughts together, I decided I might as well share it with everyone who’s interested. I’ll show how to do very basic adjustments so you get a feel for how layers work. Once you’re comfortable with that you can move on to using layers to create art effects. Please keep in mind that I’m a Photoshop user... I’m in no way an expert! / This is just my way of working with layers. There are many different ways, & they all work. Why use layers ? : / Our reasons for using layers are many & varied. We might be doing vector-like illustrations, Or composing an intricate fantasy photomanipulation. / It may be a simple matter of applying text over an image. / You may just want to do basic tone & colour adjustments of your photographs. / Whatever your reason, using layers is almost essential. / I say this for one very important reason. If you apply adjustments of any type to your original image, you will be altering it permanently. There’s no going back. Pixels get moved around & destroyed, every brush or keystroke seriously alters the quality of your image. / However, working in layers is non-destructive. The original image sits at the bottom of your stack, untouched, unaltered, safe from damage. / All of your edits are stacked on top of the original, & then “flattened”, usually upon completion, or when you’re ready to move on to the next stage of editing. I’ll use this image of a bunch of people looking a Trojan warplane, to demonstrate the basics of using layers. / I’m using PS CS3, & I’m not sure how similar the layout of PS Elements is, so this will either be helpful to you, or just confusing…. it should be fairly similar though. Let’s get started : 1) Open your image in Photoshop, & save it straight away as a psd (Photoshop file format) I’ve decided to call this one “enter the trojan”. / 2) Now have a good look at the image & decide what needs doing. / Does it needs cropping? Some people choose to crop at the start, but for some strange reason I’ll often wait until I’m somewhere through my editing process. I like to wait to see how the image is evolving…. Does anything need cloning out? / This image has a rather annoying person disappearing out of the left side of the frame, so Ill be getting rid of him, as well as cleaning up a few distracting white spots on the airfield in the background. 3) Look to the right of your screen & you’ll see your layers palette. / At the top right of that you’ll see 3 little horizontal lines stacked on top of each other with an arrow next to them. Left click on this & you’ll get a drop-down box. this is your most important box for using layers. Click on duplicate layer, & rename it as you wish. / I’m calling it “clone”. / / You’ll see the duplicate layer appear above the background layer in your layers palette. / / Make sure the clone layer is selected (it’ll be highlighted in grey), & you’re ready to work on that layer. / Now select your clone tool & go to work. All done? If you’re happy with your work make sure you save. Now, remembering what I said about your background (original) layer remaining untouched, here’s a little demo. / Do you see that little eye beside your “clone” layer? / Click on it…. Hello!! Your cloning has gone! Click on it again….. it’s back!!! / OK, we could have fun with this all day, but do you see how the background image is unchanged? Cool huh? Let’s move on…. I’ve got blown out highlights in my clouds which are a problem & the mid-tones are a bit too dark. / I’ll deal with the clouds first by using a curves adjustment layer. 4) All the way down at the bottom of your layers palette, you’ll see a toolbar. look for the circle that’s half black & half white. / This is the “create new fill or adjustment layer” button. / Click on it & select “curves”. / 5) Grab the little white dot on the line in the top right corner. Now drag it a smidgen down to the right. That should take care of the blown out clouds. / Click OK. / / Do you see you now have a curves layer? / (Because I use CS3, it automatically gives me a layer mask box on this layer. It’s that white box in your curves layer. But we’re not going to get into masks today) Now to fix the mid-tones. For this I’m going to add a Levels layer. / 6) Just like in step 4), click on the “create new fill or adjustment layer” button & this time select “Levels”. / 7) This will open a box with a levels histogram in it. / To lighten your mid-tones slide the grey arrow in the middle of the histogram to the left until you’re happy. / Click OK, & you’ll see your levels layer sitting above the curves layer. Now, what if you wanted to do some dodge & burn? / There’s a number of ways to dodge & burn, so I’ll show you one that I use quite often. 8) Remember those 3 little horizontal lines that you clicked on to duplicate the layer? (step 3) / Click on that again, & this time select “New Layer”. / 9) In the dialogue box, change the name to “dodge & burn”, / click on the “mode” dropdown box, & select “overlay”, / then check the box “Fill with overlay-neutral color (50% gray) / it should look something like this : / / Then click OK. You’ll now see a layer called “dodge & burn” in your layers palette. It should be on the top of the pile. If it isn’t, simply drag it to the top. / Any work you do to the top layer will be carried over to all the layers below. 10) Select your burn tool, set your range to Shadows, & Exposure around 20 (this will depend completely upon the type of image you’re working on), then get to work burning out the areas that you feel need deepening. 11) Then take your dodge tool, set your Exposure to around 20 & work over the areas that you think need a little more highlighting. I’ve decided this image needs a bit more saturation. 12) Go back to the black/white circle (as mentioned in step 4), & this time look for Hue/Saturation. / / Adjust your sliders as you see fit, then click OK. / At this stage I’m happy with my basic adjustments. It’s now at the stage where it’s ready for me to use it as a background image for something a little more creative. 13) If you haven’t been saving until now, you really must do it now. 14) Now we’re going to Flatten the file. / Go to those 3 little horizontal lines with the arrow again (step 3), & this time look for “Flatten Image”. / / Click on it. You’ll see that all your layers have been “flattened into just one layer, & it’s now become your new background layer. If you’re planning to print this, you’ll need to give it some sharpening. / There are so many ways to sharpen, but at the moment I’m a bit partial to using the “high pass” filter. 15) To do this you’ll need to use a duplicate layer (remember step 3?) / I’m re-naming it “High Pass Sharpening”. / 16) Go to your “filter” drop down box on your top tool bar, & select, “other”, “high pass”. / 17) Adjust your radius slider until you see a good amount of line detail while keeping the tones in gray. Click OK. / You’re probably wondering what’s happened to your image. We’ll fix that right now. 18) Look above your “high pass” layer, & you’ll see Opacity set at 100%, to the left of that the word “normal” in a drop-down box. / Click on that drop-down box & select “overlay”. / / Presto! You’ve got your image back, & it’s been sharpened. / Toggle the “eye” off & on to see the effect. 19) If it’s too sharpened for your taste, you can adjust the opacity of that layer. / Find the “opacity” slider above the layer, & adjust it as you like. / I’m setting this one to 50%. / 20) Save this as a new psd file ( I’m calling this one “enter the trojan HP sharp”), & flatten it as before. / 21) Now all you need to do is save it in the Format of choice. / I routinely save all my images as TIFF files, & then save again as JPEG. / Remember to do all you backups now so you don’t forget later. All finished! Now you have an image that is fine as is, or ready for you to get a little creative & do further editing. / The final image : / You might also want to look at Texturing an Image in Photoshop for Absolute Beginners for further editing ideas. [ One last point : I put a lot of time & effort into creating these tutorials. Please don’t disrespect me by claiming them as your own.]
A re-working of think / / Why? because I don’t have a lensbaby! Featured – Textures Unlimited – November 2009
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