Okay … so Xavier has implemented an awesome random banner generator (which shows three works fr…
Okay … so Xavier has implemented an awesome random banner generator (which shows three works from our portfolios) which can be used as an email signature. Read about it in the Forum If you wanna use the code for placing a clickable link in your Email Sig file (Or on a web page somewhere that uses HTML code) use your own Promote page to get the code for your banner. If you have any problems getting the Email Sig to work … please post your questions in the Forum topic about that. Now, for the profile bit you don’t need all this code you only need one part and you don’t even need to use the Widgetinator to get it …. I am going to make it easy for you ;) First you need your Username. That is the text you type to LOG ON to RedBubble, not nessecarily your Name as shown in RedBubble to others. My Username is crackers1967. My name in here is Craig Shillington. So we can’t get those confused. The easiest way to see what your username is, is to open up RedBubble and click on View your public Profile. Look in the address bar of your browser and it will show you your username at the end of the address: http://redbubble.com/people/username To get the link to the three thumbnails randomly pulled out of you portfolio, you use the following link {just put your username in place of where I have typed username http://redbubble.com/people/username/recipe:banner/username_banner.jpg If you want to test the link, simply type (or copy and paste it) in your browser address bar and if all is working you should open up a small jpg of three of your own works. If that doesn’t work, try making the second username with Caps. Try again. Hopefully then it works. When it works, THAT is the code to put in your Profile. Okay …. now that you have the address, edit your profile and where you want to show the three random photos (in the About You box) type an exclamation mark ! , then right after that (without a space) copy that address, then put another ! again without any spaces. Save your profile then view it and see if it works :) :) To turn the banner into a clickthru link … simply add a colon {:} and the link you want it to click to; after the colon (no spaces) Then if anyone clicks the banner, they will be taken to the url you put in there. :) Good luck :) View all my HOW TO’S
I thought I would do a separate and hopefully less complicated How To in regards to making links and showing Jpg files in RB. There s…
I thought I would do a separate and hopefully less complicated How To in regards to making links and showing Jpg files in RB. There seems to be a lot of confusion as to how these things work. So find the part you are interested in learning, maybe open up and edit an old Journal Entry and practice. VBS A URL is simply the text that shows up in your Browser Window Address Bar (up the very top), the line that starts with http:// If I refer to the URL, that is what I am talking about. ALL CODE IS WRITTEN WITHOUT SPACES Some wrapping of longer lines of code will occur within this Journal Entry, regardless of what the lines look like, code is always one continuous line WITHOUT spaces TEXT LINKS Sometimes it’s nice to have a text link when we are conversing to others in Red Bubble to help people share information, or to allow them to see another web page that has something to do with the convo. Maybe you like to include songs from YouTube with your work and want to share those Videos and music with others. Anytime you want someone to be able to link to another webpage somewhere, you can make a line of text (or one word) clickable to that link and it’s really easy to do. :) All you do is wrap the text you want people to see as a link, in qoutes {“} then add a colon {:} and then the URL. So let’s say you wanted to link to my Porfolio so people can have a look at buying something off me HEHEHE ... all you need to do is open up my portfolio page in your browser to get the URL from your browsers address bar and just type the name of the link text wrapped in quotes, followed by a colon, then the url so it would look like this (with no spaces) : ” Craig Shillington’s Portfolio ” : http://www.redbubble.com/people/crackers1967/portfolio Craig Shillington’s Portfolio is wrapped in quotes, so that is the text people will see. http://www.redbubble.com/people/crackers1967/portfolio is the link we want the text to click too When you type that within Red Bubble without the spaces you get this : Craig Shillington’s Portfolio So, abbreviated – to make a text link in Red Bubble you would type this in as code: ” text ” : link Replacing the text and link for yours and no spaces. DISPLAYING JPG’S GIF’S PNG’S ETC Please try to keep the size of these files small, both in dimensions and in download size, as if you use a lot of bigger files, the pages you put them on will load more slowly and that might piss people off!! Okay, you look around and you notice somehow people are actually making it so that you can see the thumbnail photos of thier works, or others have cool little animated gifs showing. Well … if you can bring up a photo by itself in your browser, you can show it in Red Bubble!! And again, it’s really really easy. If you want to know the link to any photo you can see in your browser window, right click on the image itself (PC Users … sorry Mac users, maybe someone can help me here) and go down to properties. In the window that opens up you will see a section that has the image properties and the location (or URL). That is the link we need to show that image. I use a little rotating Note near all the links to Videos throughout my Portfolio, so I will be using that as an example here. This applies to ANY image you want to display though. First, right click on this LINK and open in a new Window or Tab. That way you can still read this and flick back to the link to practice. :) You will notice at the top of my description for the photo, I have used the Text Link method described above to link to the Video of that Song in YouTube. And right next to that link, to draw attention to the link, I have my little rotating Note :) Right Click on the little rotating Note and go to Properties. In the box that opens you will see the Image Properties and A URL to the Image. It should be this: http://home.people.net.au/ ~ casphotography/notes-15.gif That is the link to where I have the Note.gif Stored. And that is all you need to know for any image, the URL that will show just that image in your Browser. If you copy that link to your browser Address Bar (with no spaces) and hit Enter … all you should see is an empty page with the little note rotating in the top left corner. PERFECT!! If you can open any image in this way, you have the URL in the Address Bar. If you copy a link to your Address Bar and it doesn’t just show the image, something is wrong. Most Image URL will end in JPG, GIF or PNG. There are some exceptions, but there should be one of those somewhere in the URL. Okay, so we have the URL, how do we make the image show in Red Bubble. Where you want the image to be shown, paste or type the URL. Then at the very start and the very end of the URL (with no spaces) put EXCLAMATION MARKS {!} So my note would then be (without spaces): ! http://home.people.net.au/ ~ casphotography/notes-15.gif ! And in Red Bubble will look like this: So, abbreviated – to make an image show in Red Bubble you would type this in as code: ! URL ! Replacing the URL with the URL for the image and no spaces. IMAGE LINKS Okay, so we know and understand now how to make links and also how to display images in Red Bubble. If you don’t, go back and understand it because this next bit could be very confusing if you don’t ;) We know we can show an image, and we know we can make links to text. So can we make an image work as a link? YES!! VBS And it’s sorta easy if you understand what the code is doing and how it works. I will be using my Message Me button link in my profile for this example. Because that is an Image that links to my message board and so you can leave me a message ;) Here is the link to my Profile The very first button I have in there is the Message me Button. When you click on it, it takes you to my Journal Entry I set up for people to message me in. So I know the link … all I need to get now is the URL of the button. Easy, again, right click the Message Me Button and goto Properties, look at the Image Properties and the URL there … It should be this: http://home.people.net.au/ ~ casphotography/m.gif We know from above, to display an image we wrap it in Exclamation Marks, so to show that in Red Bubble we’d type (no spaces): ! http://home.people.net.au/ ~ casphotography/m.gif ! Which will show as: Okay, we have the image up and working, how do we link to it? Exactly the same way we link to text from above. Simply follow the code with a colon {:} and the link you want people to goto when they click the image. In this case my Message Board: http://www.redbubble.com/people/crackers1967/journal/show/30445 So the whole line of code would look like this (no spaces .. and ignore the word wrap, this is all one single line): ! http://home.people.net.au/ ~ casphotography/m.gif ! : http://www.redbubble.com/people/crackers1967/journal/show/30445 When typed with no spaces and on one line it looks like this: So, abbreviated – to make an image show in Red Bubble that links to a URL you would type this in as code: ! URL ! : link Replacing the URL with the URL for the image, and link for the URL of the link to click to and no spaces. View all my HOW TO’S
Now, before all you real photographers come lunging at me with pitchforks and fiery torches, I want you to take note of the asterisks on …
Now, before all you real photographers come lunging at me with pitchforks and fiery torches, I want you to take note of the asterisks on the title. My beef is with the shutterbugs who flood these sites with everything they think qualifies as photography. I’m talking about the one’s who take pics at their kids birthday party, their dog or cat rolling around on the grass, the rustic old shack down the road, their wife or girlfriend stepping out of the shower(or some other equally unerotic pose), their vacation photos, etc. These are the one’s who take a picture of a bird on a wire, 10 different ways, and post them all. One shot of the old barn isn’t good enough. Why not take 20 more, get it from every damn angle. And post them all. How about the macro shot of the flower, always a banal treat. Oh, and don’t bother with that pesky focusing. Don’t want you to get slowed down. Now, I’m sure I’ll get replies like “Well, there’s just as many bad “artists”. This may be true, but it takes a lot longer to make a bad painting or drawing than it does a bad photograph. And you only can post one version of bad art. It matters not, because the bad art will never be seen, getting pushed out by 50 more bad photos. True, there are some serious photographers on these sights, one’s with knowledge of lighting, composition and color. One’s who have their own darkroom and equipment. One’s with serious commitment to their craft, and a discerning eye for what worked and what didn’t. But even their work gets buried under the schlock. If some of these digi-dummy’s would use more restraint and discrimination with their choices, maybe it wouldn’t be so hard to see the forest for the trees. If they thought to themselves “How can I put a fresh spin on this subject?” or “Should I bother, it’s been done to death?” , these sites would be a tad roomier. I made the mistake, when I first joined, of putting a few of these members on my watchlist. Now, I’m inundated every morning, with a new barrage of photographic excrement. I even tried taking them off the list, to no avail. It just keeps coming, like some Twilight Zone episode starring Pauly Shore. Moral of this story, is that I pick and chose after I see the work, now, and that the best place to show these pics, is at your next Christmas party. Digital cameras, the slide projectors of the new millenia.
I’m getting really sick of people using the line “all those pet dog, pets and baby photos” as an indicator of the “rubbish” on RB. The…
I’m getting really sick of people using the line “all those pet dog, pets and baby photos” as an indicator of the “rubbish” on RB. The content is irrelevant. There are some damn good “pet” portraits on RB (and yes, some really bad ones) I’m actually quite sick of a photo being considered good because of the content. Taking a photo of an exotic looking person doesn’t make you a genius photographer by default. It just means the person isn’t from your country and so is ‘interesting’. Good for you. It can be much harder to get a GREAT photo of a common subject. You have to work to make it stand out. Blurring the water in a photo doesn’t mean it’s a great photo, having a pretty sunset doesn’t make it a great photo, photographing someone who has a character lined face doesn’t make it a great photo, being naked in it doesn’t make a great photo, taking a photo of an exotic animal doesn’t make it a great photo….on and on I can go. So really, enough with the idea that pets = bad photos. Nothing is great or bad by default, it’s how you take it, YOU make it a great photo, if you can.
Ideally you will be… / prepared to give it a go and try something different or even a bit unflattering based in Melbourne, Aust…
Ideally you will be… / prepared to give it a go and try something different or even a bit unflattering based in Melbourne, Australia look completely normal or utterly unusual or anything in between accept red wine, love and photos as currency I take my responsibility as a photographer seriously. Prior to a shoot I will talk to you about my ideas, what I want you to do, how I want you and the whole image to look and discuss different options. I aim to create an art piece that best utilizes your particular look and attitude whatever that may be. If you don’t look like a typical model, brilliant. I do not shoot underage models without a parent in attendance and encourage all models to bring a chaperon or friend to shoots. I always encourage models to leave their mobile phones switched on, take regular breaks, tell someone where we will be shooting and when they can be expected home. I provide examples of my work, and models I have worked with previously will happily attest to my not being a scam artist or psycho. joobrien.com@gmail.com EDIT>> Yes, this post was made last year but I am still keen to hear from prospective models :)
There is a lot of info around about how to do this, but tracking it down can be hard. So, as I’ve been asked quite a few times in the la…
There is a lot of info around about how to do this, but tracking it down can be hard. So, as I’ve been asked quite a few times in the last few days about how to do this, I thought I would try and gather mine, and others’ info together. / / The idea of featuring other Bubblers was kicked off as an idea by Paul Louis Villani respect to Paul. the way to do it is as follows: There are some little bits of ‘code’ that you need to use and put into the description box. I’ll use THE PALM HOUSE PAGE as an example. Part 1a – the bit of text – Do check out Kara Rasmanis’ great portfolio / NOTE: this text can be whatever you want it to be. Part 2a – the web address of the page you want to link to using this text – http://www.redbubble.com/people/kvalle / NOTE: this is the public view web address of the person Part 3a – web address of the person’s I.D. picture – http://images-0.redbubble.com/rbimages/overview_bio_pic/KV.jpg / NOTE: to get this, go to the public page of the person, right-click their I.D. photo, left-click properties, and then you can left-click-hold and highlight the actual web address of their I.D. photo and COPY it and the PASTE it. Part 4a – and finally, if you want to make the picture a clickable link as well, which is nice, you repeat the web address of the page you want to link to – http://www.redbubble.com/people/kvalle joining it all together You don’t use conventional HTML tags to make it all work. Instead you use DOUBLE SPEECH MARKS, COLONS and EXCLAMATION MARKS and – importantly – NO SPACES anywhere. important: I have to use spaces to let you see what is going on Part 1b – DOUBLE SPEECH MARKS Do check out Kara Rasmanis’ great portfolio DOUBLE SPEECH MARKS COLON Part 2b – right after the COLON – http://www.redbubble.com/people/kvalle / NOTE: this turns the text into a clickable link (if you only want a text link, you need do no more) / NOTE: for the adventurous, you can press ENTER-SPACE-ENTER at this point and it will make a blank line between the test link and the picture, which looks nicer. If you are not adventurous, don’t worry. Part 3b – EXCLAMATION MARK http://images-0.redbubble.com/rbimages/overview_bio_pic/KV.jpg EXCLAMATION MARK / NOTE: this puts the picture in place on the page. Part 4b – and finally, add another COLON to make the picture clickable – COLON http://www.redbubble.com/people/kvalle Voila – it all looks like this and it is this that you put into the description box / / It should result in something like this Do check out Kara Rasmanis’ great portfolio / And the adventurous version….. Do check out Kara Rasmanis’ great portfolio / / You do it exactly the same, using 1b & 2b, for a clickable link, in comment boxes, or in Bubblemails. You can just use 3b on its own for inserting a picture Use 3b + 4b to make that picture clickable There is more information on all this here and more here and a CheatSheet here and StacyLee’s here and it’s worth going to The Learning Centre as well hope this helps. Any questions, do ask. dave
Announcing a new Photo Competition. The theme is “Once in a Blue Moon” / Deadline February 28, 2008 You don’t need to have a blue moon i…
Announcing a new Photo Competition. The theme is “Once in a Blue Moon” / Deadline February 28, 2008 You don’t need to have a blue moon in your entry. I am looking more at the phrase “Once in a Blue Moon”, meaning something that doesn’t happen very often (if ever). For example, pigs flying, snow in Los Angeles etc. This is wide open for your imagination. / Requirements: The entries must have been worked on in Photoshop only. No other editing or specialty programs are allowed. See the rules below. / The artwork must be brand new artwork. The purpose of this competition is to encourage people to go out and create something new and different in Photoshop. / Snowdog (winner of last years Blue Moon Photo Comp) and Deon de Waal have graciously volunteered to help me judge this contest. Thanks guys. / Prizes are: / 1st: Red Bubble Gift certificate for $100.00 USD / 2nd: Red Bubble Gift certificate for $ 50.00 USD / 3rd: Red Bubble Gift certificate for $ 25.00 USD / I am working on some additional goodies for the winners (TBA) 2 Honorary awards will each receive a $10.00 Red Bubble Gift certificate (USD) The rules must be strictly adhered to. Failure to do so will mean elimination from the contest. 1. One entry per person. More than one entry means disqualification. 2. Put “oncebluecomp” in your tag line. If you don’t have it in your tagline, you are not entered. 3. Artwork must be completed in 2008 (brand new artwork). 4. Photoshop only. No other editing or specialty program can be used. Photoshop plug-ins from different vendors are allowed. 5. If you use any stock photos in your artwork, you must give the photographer or stock photo company, credit. 6. Collaborations are allowed. I can split the gift certificates if need be. 7. You can change or alter your entry up until Feb. 28, 2008 as long as you stick to the 1 entry per person rule. Here is a link to last years winners. 2007 Winners
I PRODUCE & DIRECT PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES FOR STILL CAPTURE TO PROMOTE AND MARKET EMERGING TALENT / for Amateur & Professionals alike *PRI…
I PRODUCE & DIRECT PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES FOR STILL CAPTURE TO PROMOTE AND MARKET EMERGING TALENT / for Amateur & Professionals alike PRIVATE ENQUIRIES ALSO WELCOME / I work out of Europe & Australia. I source, manage and market emerging talent from both continents. / I engage photographers, models, actors, performers, stylists and artists alike. I create opportunites that merge a miriad of creative talent into marketing events for the International marketplace. / Je travaille à la fois en Europe et en Australie. / Je cherche, dirige et lance de nouveaux talents. / J’engage photographes, modèles, acteurs et stylistes. / Si vous désirez en savoir plus sur les diférentes / opportunités que je peux vous offrir, veuillez me contacter à / director@arthouseproductions.com.au / to register email me your areas of interest with your location subject MAILING LIST + LOCATION in captials please / 3 Faces: Courtesy of Maree Toogood / photo courtesy of MAREE TOOGOOD / / photo courtesy of Jodie Johnson / / courtesy of Phil Wright / / courtesy of dominic o’brien / / / / courtesy of photoeclipse / AERIAL ACROBATS ARTHOUSE PRODUCTION / If you are interested in attending any of the PHOTOGRAPHIC SESSIONS that i stage and stepping off the virtual platform for a shoot, meeting other bubblers, working with excellent models, picking up tips on the job, let me know! and i will add you to our mailing list and keep you in the loop. I organise, models, drops & props, venues, equipment etc. for on location and studio shoots. So jump on the mailing and stay informed. / These are some of the ways YOU & YOUR WORK gets promoted. / ARTHOUSE PRODUCTIONS VIDEO MONTAGES / Some of the sessions are by invitation only as location can restrict numbers so let me know what areas interest you ie, dance, portraiture, black and white, cityscape, sports, nudes, fashion, catwalk, landscape, storms, seascape, animals, babies, night , long exposure, photo journalsim, macro, etc. etc / ARTHOUSE PHOTOGRAPHIC EXHIBITION MELBOURNE / & / EUROPEAN EXHIBITION Look forward to seeing you at the next ART HOUSE PRODUCTION !! / A SNAPSHOT OF THE WORK BEHIND THE SCENES
I recommend printing these instructions so that you have them handy for reference. It is easier than switching back and forth to this sc…
I recommend printing these instructions so that you have them handy for reference. It is easier than switching back and forth to this screen. HOW TO ADD PHOTOS TO YOUR PROFILE DESCRIPTION (About Me) These instructions will also work to add a photo to a bubblemail or comment. Choose a photo you have in your profile. Right click on the photo. In the pop-up box, click on “properties” (at the bottom). The “Properties” box will pop up – highlight the address (URL) . {Click & drag will highlight the entire address} IMPORTANT: Be sure to highlight the entire address – only two lines will be visible, but if a third line of the address hidden, be sure you drag down to highlight all lines of the address. To copy the URL address, press Ctrl-C (press the control key and the “C” key at the same time). You won’t see anything happen on the screen, but that is fine. Click OK to close the “Properties” box. Open “edit your profile” (or any other location where you want your pic to be visible). Press Ctrl-V (press control key and the “V” key at the same time). You should see the URL address. Put an exclamation point ( ! ) in front of the URL address and another one at the end of the URL address. It should look like this, but without the spaces: ! http://images-0.redbubble.com/img/art/cropped/size:xsmall/view:main/993259-1-yellowstone-in-winter.jpg ! Remember, NO SPACES before or after the exclamation point (!) – the beginning of the URL should look like this: !http:// The end of the URL address should look like this: winter.jpg! I hope this is helpful. I would be remiss if I did not give credit to Sharon Henson as she is the one who was generous enough to share this information with me. Have a blessed day! / Patricia CLICK HERE FOR ALL TUTORIALS BY PATRICIA / Add Buttons To Your Profile Page / How to make a calendar / Downsizing those example images on your profile page / Adding Examples (Card, Laminated, Matted, etc) To Your Profile / Add photos to your profile description / Adding emphasis to your text / Plus more tutorials!
Be open minded about your camera gear You can make a tripod for only a few dollars...
Be open minded about your camera gear You can make a tripod for only a few dollars, tracing paper makes a great diffuser and a trip to a hardware store will give you very bright lights. Yes, there are downsides, and for the technically perfect photographer, these suggestions will be a very funny joke. The point here is keep and open mind and try new things before forking out $100 for a piece of shiny material that resembles a $5 dash board cover. Unless you use a biscuit tin to take photos, eventually you will want to buy a new camera. Shop around, get advice, try out a friend’s and when you walk into the shop, don’t spend hundreds of dollars on accessories that you wont’ use. It doesn’t hurt to haggle a bit either. When the salesman tries to close the deal, my typical response is “what else are you throwing in?” Studio Hire So the first question you ask yourself is “Do I know anyone who already has a studio set up?” If the answer is yes. Skip the rest of this section, suck up your pride and ask them if you can visit and have a play. The rest of you, ask yourself what you are paying for. Is it the chance to get a professionally lit shot? Maybe you could try a lighting course that will not only give you many opportunities to work with professional lights, but will teach you the theory and science of lighting. Often these courses are much cheaper than a similar amount of time in a rented studio. Do you want to try shooting in more controlled conditions? Try clearing out a room of your house and setting up a few scenes. The results may not be brilliant but it will give you a sense of how much time you can spend setting a shot up before you get to click the button. If you are certain that a proper studio is for you, consider hiring it out through a camera club for a discounted rate, or hiring it out with a couple of other photographers to minimise your expense. Models and TFP Models and photographers have one thing in common – they both need a portfolio of photos to proceed in their career. This is why Time For Photo shoots have become so popular. But before you jump up and down about using a free model take a second think about what is fair and ethical. At the end of the day, both you and the model should be happy with your arrangement. If someone feels short changed, you should consider modifying your approach. This is my rule of thumb. If a model approaches me to take shots for her portfolio, and I am working to her brief, she should pay me. If we have put our heads together to come up with a project and proceed on equal footing where we both use the images, then neither should pay. And if I conceive and art direct the shoot and have priority over the image rights, I should pay the model. Basically whoever comes out on top should be paying the person who is doing them a favor. Then there are test shoots, these are almost always done on a time for photos basis. These shoots are a bit like ‘warm up’ shoots for the model and photographer to see if they want to work together properly. They are also a chance to test new ideas or equipment. Often the images taken in test shoots are less than great, and if they do turn out, they are most commonly shared equally between all parties. If you are requesting a model release form because you intend to profit from the images, in my opinion, the model should be paid or you should have an arrangement to split any profits. My plan of attack is to put out a call for models. Then I will do a test shoot with the model who has contacted me and we either have equal rights to the shots or split them down the middle. If the test shoot goes well we may arrange to work together again. This might mean doing an even split of “her ideas” and “my ideas” for no payment, or it may be paid work if I am contracted to produce shots for a commercial job. Photographers – What are you paying for? (Part One).
!http://images-2.redbubble.net/img/art/size:ularge/v…
ABOUT MY EXHIBITION The woks exhibited represent the linkup of two artists, a photographer and a sculptor. Such an attempt to blend two spheres of art is really innovative and a bit unexpected. There had been few who were successful in such an attempt. Both authors, blending their art by the means of the photo art, are the winners. Sculpture, as such, is rather a static art, sometimes “performing” in a specific, sometimes artificial, environment. However, the means of the plastic photography, seemingly, make the sculptures movable, dynamic; they make you feel the sculptures are moving. They become alive, start moving and react both to the environment and the views captured by the photographer. I would like the viewers also note the colour solutions of the photos, aimed at the strengthening of the overall impression of the imagery. The original blend and overlapping of two arts let see the impressive plastic metaphors, giving birth to various associations. CLICK PHOTO IF YOU WANT VIEW / /
_I recommend printing these instructions so that you have them handy for reference. It is easier than switching back and forth to this s…
I recommend printing these instructions so that you have them handy for reference. It is easier than switching back and forth to this screen. Click on “my bubble”. Click on “art” (on the 2nd row of links – not the top one). You should see “My Art” page – this is the page where you can edit your pics. Choose your photo and click on “Show Public View”. Click “Buy/Preview”. (Note: You won’t actually be buying, only previewing) Choose the card or frame of your choice. Make your mat or color selections, etc. When the image of your framed photo appears on the screen, right click on the photo. A pop-up box will appear. Right click on the photo. In the pop-up box, click on “properties” (at the bottom). The “Properties” box will pop up – highlight the address (URL) . {Click & drag will highlight the entire address} IMPORTANT: Be sure to highlight the entire address – only two lines will be visible, but if a third line of the address hidden, be sure you drag down to highlight all lines of the address. Next copy the URL address. Press Ctrl-C (press the control key and the “C” key at the same time). You won’t see anything happen on the screen, but that is fine. Click OK to close the “Properties” box. Go to “Edit Your Profile” and scroll down to the “About You” box. Click in the box where you want this example to be shown. Now press Ctrl-V (press control key and the “V” key at the same time). You should see the URL address. Put an exclamation point ( ! ) in front of the URL address and another one at the end of the URL address. It should be similar to this example, but without the spaces: ! http://images-0.redbubble.com/img/art/cropped/size:xsmall/view:main/993259-1-yellowstone-in-winter.jpg ! Remember, NO SPACES before or after the exclamation point (!) – the beginning of the URL should look like this: !http:// The end of the URL address should look like this: winter.jpg! NOTE: These will be full-size copies of the images. If you would like to have smaller images (see my profile for examples) that don’t take up so much room, see my other tutorial on how to resize the images. Have a blessed day! / Patricia CLICK HERE FOR ALL TUTORIALS BY PATRICIA
_I recommend printing these instructions so that you have them handy for reference. It is easier than switching back and forth to this s…
I recommend printing these instructions so that you have them handy for reference. It is easier than switching back and forth to this screen. Sometimes the examples of framed photos can take up quite a bit of room on our profile pages. Here’s how you can make them smaller to take up less room. SHORT VERSION: Save the framed image to your computer and re-size it in a photo editing program. Then upload the smaller version back to RB using the “hide” feature. Once uploaded then you can right-click on the image to get the URL address in order to post the smaller version on your profile page. That was a quick-and-easy version for the more computer saavy. STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS: Below are more detailed instructions that explain how to add smaller examples (card, laminated, matted, etc.) to your profile. You can view my profile to see an example of the size I used. Click on “my bubble”. Click on “art” (on the 2nd row of links – not the top one). You should see “My Art” page – this is the page where you can edit your pics. Choose your photo and click on “Show Public View”. Click “Buy/Preview”. (Note: You won’t actually be buying, only previewing) Choose the frame of your choice, mat, color, etc. When the image of your framed photo appears on the screen, right click on the photo. A pop-up box will appear. Click on “Save Photo As”. Be sure to save as a jpeg (.jpg) file. A dialog box will appear. Choose a folder or location on your computer to save the framed pic. Remember where you save it. You are done with RedBubble for now. You can close your browser window or leave it open for later. Resize the Photo: You now will need to open the saved, framed image on your computer using a program such as Photoshop or Irfanview. You can use any software that will allow you to resize the image. For this example, I will use Irfanview. You can download this free software by going to www.irfanview.com If you are using another program, you will need to use the resize/resample feature. Open Irfanview. Open the framed image that you saved to your computer. Go to “Image” (top menu bar) – in the drop-down menu, choose “Resize/Resample” In the dialog box, you will need to change to a new size. For my own profile page, I chose approximately 175×141 pixels so that I could fit two images side-by-side. See my “profile page”: http://www.redbubble.com/people/patmonty/ for an example. These numbers are not set in stone. You may need to tweak the numbers to suit your own needs. Save your resized image in Irfanview, but be sure to remember where you have saved it. Close Irfanview and open RedBubble in your browser window. Add Smaller Image to Redbubble: Now you are going to upload the resized pic to RedBubble. IMPORTANT: Be sure to “Hide this work from others” When you upload, the resized image will be private and only can be viewed by you. Once uploaded, then right click on the private, resized image. A pop-up box will appear. Right click on the photo. In the pop-up box, click on “properties” (at the bottom of the list). The “Properties” box will pop up – highlight the address (URL) . {Click & drag will highlight the entire address} IMPORTANT: Be sure to highlight the entire address – only two lines will be visible, but if a third line of the address hidden, be sure you drag down to highlight all lines of the address. Next copy the URL address. Press Ctrl-C (press the control key and the “C” key at the same time). You won’t see anything happen on the screen, but that is fine. Click OK to close the “Properties” box. Go to “edit your profile”. Press Ctrl-V (press control key and the “V” key at the same time). You should see the URL address. Put an exclamation point ( ! ) in front of the URL address and another one at the end of the URL address. It should be similar to this example, but without the spaces: ! http://images-0.redbubble.com/img/art/cropped/size:xsmall/view:main/993259-1-yellowstone-in-winter.jpg ! Remember, NO SPACES before or after the exclamation point (!) – the beginning of the URL should look like this: !http:// The end of the URL address should look like this: winter.jpg! Now check the public view of your profile to see if the smaller-sized image appears. Now you can add the html code for your next image. Keep the html code for each image separated by one space. If you have problems or questions, please don’t hesitate to let me know. Have a blessed day, / Patricia CLICK HERE FOR ALL TUTORIALS BY PATRICIA
_I am certainly no expert at making tee shirts. I know there are others out there who are the real experts. So I’m just going to share…
I am certainly no expert at making tee shirts. I know there are others out there who are the real experts. So I’m just going to share a few helpful hints that came out of my struggles to get two tee designs uploaded on RB. Here’s what I did: Opened Photoshop Elements (or any other image editing program) and set up a new empty page. Set the dimensions to 2400 width x 3200 height with a transparent background. IMPORTANT NOTE: If the background is not transparent, it will not work! If you are one pixel off on the dimensions, it will not work! You cannot transpose the pixels either (NOT 3200 width x 2400 height) as it will not work! Transferred (copied) an image to the blank/transparent background. Added text to complete my design. Saved image as a .png file. NOTE: Other file extensions (such as .jpg) will not work! It must be a .png file! Uploaded to Redbubble with a default color and a default style. This will be the color and style (short-sleeve, long sleeve, etc.) you want to display on the page to showcase your design. NOTE: If you forget to choose the defaults, it will not work! Should I have a contest to see who can guess all the things I did wrong when I first tried to upload a tee shirt design? LOL! Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have problems or further questions. This tutorial was featured in the Daily Wrap on October 4, 2008. / This tutorial was featured in the group, Tutorials, on February 3, 2009. CLICK HERE FOR ALL TUTORIALS BY PATRICIA* Add Buttons To Your Profile Page How to make a calendar Downsizing those example images on your profile page Adding Examples (Card, Laminated, Matted, etc) To Your Profile Add photos to your profile description Adding emphasis to your text
I have written this tutorial more for the new bubblers that have recently joined. But if you have been around the site for awhile and st…
I have written this tutorial more for the new bubblers that have recently joined. But if you have been around the site for awhile and still haven’t yet attempted to put a link in your profile, image description, or bubblemail, this should help. FOR THE COMPUTER SAAVY: Put quotation marks around the words you want to be the link. Then type a colon. Copy and paste the url address for the page, image, etc. that you want to link to. No spaces anywhere in the code. BEGINNER STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS: I would suggest printing these out to have next to the keyboard. It will be easier than switching back and forth to this screen. -Type the words you want to be the link: Bubblesite for Patricia -Put quotation marks around the words: “Bubblesite for Patricia” -Add a colon at the end: “Bubblesite for Patricia” : -Then add the url address for the page/photo you want to link to: http://patmonty.redbubble.com/ -It should look like this (without the space): “Bubblesite for Patricia”: http://patmonty.redbubble.com/ -I put a space after the colon so the html code would be visible in this journal. Take out the space and waa-laa! It becomes a link! Bubblesite for Patricia NOTE: In a bubblemail, it becomes a link after it is sent. In a comment, it becomes a link after the comment is added. In a journal or profile description, the clickable link is only seen in the public view. If you have problems or questions, please don’t hesitate to let me know. Patricia CLICK HERE FOR ALL TUTORIALS BY PATRICIA / Add Buttons To Your Profile Page / How to make a calendar / Downsizing those example images on your profile page / Adding Examples (Card, Laminated, Matted, etc) To Your Profile / Add photos to your profile description / Adding emphasis to your text / Plus more tutorials!
I typed all this out for Ben, who asked for some help, since he doesn’t live near any beach, and didn’t want to waste his time when he fi…
I typed all this out for Ben, who asked for some help, since he doesn’t live near any beach, and didn’t want to waste his time when he finally made the long trek. Thought others might appreciate the info. I use my Canon 5D with Lee ND grads, mostly the darkest ones, for sunrise. I’ve never tried to shoot the ocean much after an hour or so after sunrise, and not been all that successful, unless it’s a cloudy day. You’ll need a tripod and cable release. The tripod just needs to be stable, and the cable release working. Then I set my camera on AV and start shooting with aperture at around f/8 or so while it’s dark, and closing it down as the light gets stronger, with ISO mostly 50….. There’s no formula I use, other than using AEB, to see if I can snag one that gets the sky right, then I look for the one with the right wave patterns. Sometimes I combine the two, sometimes I run them through photomatix. Sometimes they’re perfect. I use my 16-35mm nearly ALL the time when shooting seascapes, very rarely I’ve used the 70-200, and that’s only if there’s a detail that’s worth getting, like the shipwreck or some waterfalls over rocks from the surf…. Here the light is generally best till around 20mins after the sun goes down, or 30 mins before the sun comes up. If you have clouds, wait longer after sunset….you’ll probably get better colours. If you have clouds in the morning, you might be able to shoot longer after the sun comes up too, especially if the light breaks through…. The IR filter can come in handy once the light is stronger….here in Qld we have strong light for 12 hours a day or more, even in winter….IR is a blessing! I’ve never used a yellow filter….and wide angle with polarisers just don’t give good results, imho. Just keep checking your screen and moving around for different viewpoints. Everything will depend on how much water movement you prefer. This is a case of personal taste, and with practise you will work that out. Setting your camera on AV and using AEB will give you the three different exposures to see which works best, then you just adjust your aperture to slow it down, or speed it up….or add more filters…the darker it is, the longer the exposure…. Be careful of getting too close to the waves, and watch out for slippery rocks, they can be extremely dangerous! Here the tide surges more dangerously an hour before high tide. Make sure of tide times before you go, and be certain you have a way to escape from the beach if the tide is coming up….Rogue waves can, and do cause problems….try to go with someone who has local knowledge…. Wash your tripod off when you leave the beach, and again when you get home. Other than that, have fun!
I can’t talk about these filters in any sort of technical way, but I can explain what I bought, and how good they are at allowing you to …
I can’t talk about these filters in any sort of technical way, but I can explain what I bought, and how good they are at allowing you to shoot dawn and sunset without losing all your sky detail. I started off with a set of Cokin P filters. The filters sit in a plastic holder, that attaches to the front of your lens by way of an adaptor ring. The ring needs to fit the front element of your main landscape lens. When I used the Canon 20D the Cokin P was fine, with no vignetting, but once I bought the full frame Canon 5D, my lens had to be closed down to 24mm wide. This was unacceptable to me, since I like wide landscapes. Looking into various other filters meant spending quite a bit more money, however, all the reviews showed Lee filters to be ideal. There are a couple of companies here in Oz that sell them, and after wasting time ordering and paying in advance to an overseas company, only to find that they were out of stock, with no idea of a delivery date, I asked for a refund and contacted Mediavision in Sydney. Geoff was very helpful, and gave me a quote for a foundation kit, wide angle adaptor ring, a set of 3 neutral density soft graduated filters, and a full 0.6 ND filter. Postage was only slightly extra, and I had them in my hot little hands within the week. Geoff also sent a Lee catalogue. / Mediavision Australia / Sydney Office:- 4 Monash Road,Gladesville NSW 2111 / Phone:(02) 9816 4055 Fax: (02) 9816 1661 / Melbourne Office :- 22 Yertchuk Avenue,Ashwood Victoria 3147 / Phone:- (03) 9807 5133 Fax:- (03) 9807 7814 When I go to the beach, I take a bag with just filters and holder. They all have their soft cloth or soft vinyl bags, and it’s easier to slip them in and out of there without having to take off my backpack. Before dawn I’ll generally just have the adaptor ring and holder on the lens, with no filter. As the sun gets closer to jumping up from under the horizon, the filters are brought into play. Usually I’ll add the 0.6 first, if there’s not much cloud around, and once the sun has risen, the 0.9 will be added on top. The soft graduation means that you can slide the filter up and down, even slightly below the horizon, and it doesn’t leave a solid line. I haven’t been in a situation where I think I’d need the hard grad, to be honest. The holder turns easily if you wish to switch to portrait mode, just remember to turn it back when you go back to landscape mode! Because I live in Queensland where the sun is especially bright, all year round, it’s important to have these filters to make the most of a good sky. It’s near impossible to capture sky detail AND foreground detail without them. I don’t shoot in the daytime if I can get away with it, usually we pack up and leave the beach within 30mins after sunrise. I believe that you can still make good use of the ND grads all through the day, but I don’t have any real experience of that. Even shooting waterfalls can be easier when using ND filters, because it cuts out some of the light that might otherwise over-expose your image if you’re trying for silky water. The only problems we’ve all had is when the sea mist is particularly bad. In that instance we are constantly looking for ways to clean the filters, and still haven’t come up with a satisfactory solution. If anyone can help, we’d be much obliged! I hope this helps, as I said, not techy, but may be helpful for anyone looking to know what to buy….. cheers This has also been added to the tips and advice forum of All Seascapes Group forum
Quite a few people have asked me how I do my textured work. / To be honest, everyone does it their own way, but it helps to have someone s…
Quite a few people have asked me how I do my textured work. / To be honest, everyone does it their own way, but it helps to have someone show you how to get started. / Nicole Goggins taught me, & I believe Mel Brackstone taught her. (apologies if I got that wrong) / Of course there’s always an alternative way of doing the steps, I’ve certainly changed my technique quite a bit since I wrote this, but this is as good a place to start as any. / So here’s the walkthrough that I’ve passed on to those who’ve asked. LETS GET STARTED : I use PhotoShop CS3, but this’ll work with any version. / If you’re not using PS, I’m confident you’ll be able to find your way through it in whatever program you’re using. I’d suggest printing this so you can follow it step by step. 1) Start by opening the image that you want to add a texture to. 2) In the layers palette on the right, (R) click on the background layer & select “Duplicate layer”. This layer will be called “Background copy”, & will sit immediately above the “background” layer. (This is to preserve your original copy) 3) Do whatever adjustments you would usually do until you’re happy with the image as it is. ( ie – levels, curves, hue/sat, curves etc ) 4) Flatten the image - / To do this, go to the Layers palette® click on a layer, & select “Flatten image”. 5)Now it’s time to apply the texture image. / First, you need to make sure that your texture image is the same size as your background image. / To do this :- / Go to your top toolbar & look for the “Image” tab, & click on it. / Then click on “Image Size”. / You’ll need to write down the following details : Pixel dimensions – Width & Height , & Resolution. / Click OK or Cancel to close that window. 6) Now go to your top tool bar, click on “File” & “Open” your texture image. 7)Now that you’re in your texture image, go to “Image”, “Image Size” again, & make sure “Resample Image” is checked, & “Constrain Proportions” is unchecked.. / In that same window, change the resolution & Pixel dimensions – Width & Height to the same details that you wrote down earlier. / Click “OK”. / Now your texture image is the same as your background image. 8) Minimize the texture image. Do not close it, just minimize it. / Now you should see your background image workspace again. 9) In your background again, go to your layers palette & create a “Background copy” like we did in step (2). 10) Go to the little toolbar on the bottom of the “Layers Palette” & look for the little icon that looks like a square with the bottom left corner turning up. / This is the “Create new layer” button. / Click on this & create a new layer, which you can rename to “texture”. / Make sure this layer is active. ( it’ll be highlighted in grey) 11) Go to “Image”, then “Apply Image”. / Now you’ll see a window with a dropdown box named “Source” at the top. / Look for your texture image in the dropdown box , select it, & click “OK”. / You’ll see the texture appear in the “texture” layer that you created in step (10). Now it’s time to get creative….. 12) In the layers palette double click on the little thumbnail image of your texture. / You’ll get a window called “Layer Style”. / Under “Blending Options”, “General blending” you’ll see that the current blend mode is “normal”. / Click on this dropbox & start experimenting with the different blend modes. / I usually use “overlay”, “soft light”, or “hard light”. / This whole “Layer style” window is one you can experiment with as much as you like until you come up with the look you want. / Click “OK” when you’re done. 13) You can change the blend mode of your background copy also. / At this stage you just need to be doing whatever you want to achieve the look you like. 14) For a bit more depth to your texturing, you can try duplicating each layer, & then alternate their order on the palette by dragging them up & down. / eg :- texture copy / background copy 2 / texture / background copy / background (this one is locked, so will always remain on the bottom) 15) In the Layers palette you can adjust the “opacity” of each layer for more or less of the effect. 16) Don’t forget to save as you go. / I like to save all my layers as a psd (Photoshop document) so that I can make changes to it at any time in the future. / When you have a final image that you like, flatten the image ( as in step 4), & “save as” a jpeg. (or your preferred format) 17) Upload to redbubble so that we can all see how well you’ve done!!!! And that’s it! Just remember that there’s no “rules” for this….. a lot of it is just experimenting as you go. What works for one image might look horrid on another, so trust your instincts! [ One last point : I put a lot of time & effort into creating these tutorials. Please don’t disrespect me by claiming them as your own.]
Workflow for rescuing “The Lamp” NB I am writing this for users of Photoshop – although most functions are available in Elements als…
Workflow for rescuing “The Lamp” NB I am writing this for users of Photoshop – although most functions are available in Elements also … I have been asked many times for tips on giving shots a nostalgic feel, and also for advice on rescuing a ‘dud’ shot. ( I seem to get some kind of perverse pleasure from making something from a photo which is apparently useless – maybe is it symbolic!!) So, I have combined both (a ‘rescue’ technique as well as some nostalgic processing) in producing “The Lamp” and, for those who are interested, outlined some of the steps below. Please note this is NOT a traditional tutorial – the process is different for every photo, and each step allows room for personal taste and interpretation – no two people would end up with the same result! Before image After image 1. I first processed the basic shot – curves, sharpening, cropping, cloning out any extraneous bits etc (I purposely chose a jpeg for those who may not be using fancy techniques yet, and one that was definitely quite washed out. Normally I would use a RAW file, and/or some HDR). / 2. Saved it as “The Lamp – basic PS” / 3. Duplicated the background layer / 4. On the copy went to Filter/Find Edges / 5. Right clicked on the ‘find edges’ layer and blended to give it a slightly illustrative look (ie having dark edges and colours a bit desaturated) / 6. Duplicated this layer (Ctrl J if you are using a PC) / 7. Went to Filter/Other/High pass (push the slider to maximum) / 8. In this case it gave the effect I wanted without any further blending. If I didn’t like the effect, I could have right clicked on the high pass layer, and again tried some blending … if at any stage you don’t like any effect you can hit Ctrl/Alt/Z and it will take you back – one step at a time … / 9. Flattened the image. At this stage it was still a little washed out and pale… so / 10. Duplicated the layer / 11. Right clicked on the copy layer and in Blend mode, went to Multiply in the drop down menu / 12. Blended this and toggled the opacity slider till I had a realistic richer looking image / 13. Duplicated the layer again / 14. Went to Edit/Fill – 100% black / 15. Slid the opacity slider back to about 50% / 16. Used the eraser tool, quite large, with feathered edges and about 20% opacity, to wipe across the image a few times and ‘paint with light’ at an appropriate angle (tricky – needs to compliment the lighting already on the subject in the image – I am still practicing this myself) / 17. When satisfied I flattened the image and did another “Save as” (you never know – it pays to have a few variations to come back to just in case!) calling it “The Lamp – high pass multiply” / 18. From here on it is even more “trial and error”! I duplicated the layer again and did a little burning on shadowed areas, a little dodging where I felt the light should be emphasized, and with an omni light in Filters/Render, finally added a tiny bit of light to the lampshade to give the impression of a glow. I don’t necessarily look on this final image as one of my masterpieces, but do feel it is a credible attempt at rescuing what would otherwise be left “on the cutting room floor”. I hate to throw anything out, and that includes washed out photos! With thanks, and dedicated to all who have helped me along the way … :)
Many moons ago when I was a young assistant to top London fashion photographer John Cowan, Frank Buck, John’s senior assistant introduced…
Many moons ago when I was a young assistant to top London fashion photographer John Cowan, Frank Buck, John’s senior assistant introduced me to a firm of photographers in the East End of London that specialised in weddings. Frank was making a few extra bucks (ha, ha, that was his name) and suggested I might do the same. This became my ‘Saturday job’ for a while. We had to go equipped with 2 and 1/4 square format cameras, no Nikons allowed here. Frank took our back up/fail safe/last resort Rolleiflex, and I took my Yashica Mat which was a cheaper Japanese copy of the same thing, and a couple of light tripods. We would split up at, or near our destinations which were separate weddings in separate churches, but usually fairly close together. As the Saturdays mounted up, I got to know the churches, the same four of them. Now this wedding photography firm was a factory. I never actually set foot in the place so I can’t tell you what the premises were like. Noisy, sparse, stinking of hypo crystals and full of busy cockney accents I would guess. That’s how I used to imagine it anyway. I usually started work right at the church and would get there about 20 minutes early. We were supplied with two rolls of black and white film each by a biker, and that gave us 24 exposures in total. If we were lucky, he dumped a couple of Metz electronic flashguns on us too. These had quite large battery packs and were about as unwieldy as the first ever mobile phones. On the first Saturday I ever worked, I was also handed a list. The List. This told me exactly what to do with the 24 exposures with no shots to spare and no room for error. If the bride blinked, too bad. See, I told you it was a factory. Yep, that it was. 24 exposures and we were expected to create 24 masterpieces according to The List! 1st shot, Groom and Best Man Walking to Church. 2nd shot Groom with Best Man Standing Outside Church. 3 Shot Bride Arriving and Getting Out of Car. 4th shot Bride Walking up Church Path with Father. The Bridesmaids fitted in here somewhere, shot number 5? This was in the days when weddings were a bit more solemn, so no pictures were allowed to be taken in the church, but 6th shot Signing the Registry was a must. After that, it was all breathe a sigh of relief, me especially if I had nailed it so far, throw some confetti, and get down to the serious business of taking the posed groups. First of all we shot exposure number 7 of the Bride and Groom Outside Church. Then it was The Bride and Bridesmaids – 8. Shot 9 was Bride On Her Own and then it was down to the Groups proper. First of all, do all the in laws and outlaws, in other words bride with her Mum and Dad. Groom with his Mum and Dad. Then bride and groom together with both Mums and Dads. Then one would start dragging in other relations. Grand parents were pretty high on the list, so Bride and Groom with their Mums and Dads and their Mum’s and Dad’s Mums and Dads. This was now the second roll of film and I would be checking the list to make sure I had not missed any shots on the first roll. It was nerve racking stuff. From here more and more relatives would join the affray, Shot 14, as 13 but with added bridesmaids. Shot 15 was as 13 but with added brothers, sisters, small children and the really small ones, ah yes babies. At each shot, I would be moving the camera further and further away, turning round occasionally to make sure I would not fall over a tombstone or worse still, into an open grave. Shot 16 is about cousin’s time with aunts and uncles next. There were usually still quite a few people standing on the side lines, so with the help of the best man, these are moved into the next shot according to rank. One would have to start checking things pretty carefully at this stage because as I said, only two rolls of film and you had to make sure you had saved a couple of frames for the reception. But before that, the grand group finale, Everyone! At this point, somehow or another, everyone would squeeze in to the shot, some sitting, some standing on steps, and some sitting on walls. Wherever you could put them, they would be put. This was the final shot with plenty of cheese and these group shots had to be good, because they were the ones that guests would buy later. Then hey ho everybody, it’s off to the reception and at this point I would usually bum a lift as I had no car of my own. As soon as we got there, there were two more shots to go. Shot 23 Bride and Groom Cutting Cake. This was mocked up of course, as the B & G were a long time from actually cutting the cake. Shot 24 wasn’t mocked though. Bride and Groom Raising Bubbly at last. That was it! Pack up quick and wait for biker who would whisk me back to the same church for the next wedding! The biker would take the exposed rolls of film for the darkroom staff back at the mill to process and print. Just over an hour later 10×8 proofs would be pinned up at the reception, ready for the bride, parents and all the guests to order. I rarely ever saw the pictures except on a couple of occasions. To my relief the exposures were about right and I had covered the lists. It was not my job to follow up with the picture orders. Somebody else did that. It was my job to make sure I didn’t mess up. A couple of essential shots missed were enough to make sure you were not asked to come back for more hire! These future invitations were relayed by the biker when the boss, who I never met, had seen what you produced and passed judgement. We got paid the princely sum of £3 for each wedding and I usually managed two each Saturday. £3 was a days pay at assistant rates, so to polish off two weddings in a Saturday afternoon was 2 days pay for half a days work in my eyes, and well worth the trip to Leyton. Frank and I would usually meet up and travel back together in his MG sports car, swapping details of our weddings and their guests on the way! Epilogue: This was never my idea of how to photograph a wedding. I was there for the overtime and had to do what the ‘firm’ required. It was pretty fast and rough but the formula was fairly standard in the mid sixties, and the whole idea was that prints were whizzed back to the reception to take advantage of guests being there for sales on the spot. All you needed was the shoot list and the ability to operate a 2 and 1/4 square roll film camera. However, the experience of handling people and believe it or not, the Wedding Photo List, were the foundations of far more creative wedding photography to come. Looking back, it really was a very good basic training ground that would earn me a lot more than £3 in the future. Next time – how to do the job properly!
First, from me . . . Some de-mystification: / .. / There are three basic physical controls on a camera, digital or otherwise: / 1.) Focu…
First, from me . . . Some de-mystification: / .. / There are three basic physical controls on a camera, digital or otherwise: / 1.) Focus / 2.) Aperture / 3.) Shutter speed. / .. / Of the three, Aperture and Shutter speed control exposure. Aperture also controls how deep the area is that will be in focus (depth of field) and Shutter Speed also controls how motion of the subject (and camera) is recorded. All the modes on a camera, Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Manual, Auto, etc. are just different ways of controlling Aperture and Shutter Speed. There are different modes for controlling focus too. / .. / Definitions: (from Camerapedia ) / 1.) Focus: to focus means to adjust a lens or its optical elements for achieving a sharp image of subjects in a certain distance from the camera / 2.) Aperture: An opening in a lens that controls the amount of light passing through it. (added by me – the aperture is variable in size and also controls depth of field / 3.) Shutter speed: The amount of time the shutter remains open. (from me: it controls not only exposure, but how motion is captured, i.e. blurred or frozen) / 4.) Depth of Field: The range of distances (from near to far) within which a scene will be considered to be “in focus” (several factors influence/control depth of field: aperture size, distance from subject, point of focus, focal length of lens) .. / Now, there are other aspects such as how sharp or how big an image can be made with a camera, or how much light is needed to make an image, or how colour will be represented. In film cameras we determine these with film format (such as 35mm, 6×6cm, 6×7cm, etc.), film type, colour balance, & speed (iso), colour temperature of the light source, and filter choices. In digital, colour temperature of the light source, white balance, sensitivity (iso), sensor size (you chose one when you bought your camera), color space, RAW vs. .jpeg, vs, .TIFF, etc. and other factors make these determinations. I’m trying to keep this brief, and I know it’s over-simplified. So, now some reading . . . / .. / I haven’t reviewed these word for word. They look good. / .. / How to use basic camera controls / Cambridge in Color’s Tutorials / Geoff Lawrence’s Free Photography Tutorials / Digital Photography School / Photoflex Lighting School (more of an advanced tutorial, and it’s aimed at selling their products, but I like it because it’s good!) / Tutorial9 (don’t know about this one, it looks interesting) / Short Courses – Using Your Camera (looks pretty basic) / About Com – Photography Basics (always a lot of info at about.com on just ‘about’ anything / Beginning Digital Photography (about SLR’s but applicable beyond that / Mark Raymond Mason’s Tutorials .. / Some other sites where you can post your work for review: / .. / Photo.net / Photocritiq / UseFilm / Betterphoto (now a paid site,but a first class one) / .. / Blogger (make your own photoblog, go solo, or allow co-authors to post with you) / .. / Some online photo-magazines I like: / .. / Shutterbug / Megapixel (English and French) / DPreview (included real-life photo samples from various cameras, many nice shots of London) / Steves Digicams / .. / Also see Sharon Mau’s Journal for a bunch more great links. (See comments below.) / ..
The following applications are free: / .. / G.I.M.P. The GNU Image Manipulation Program has a lot of the features f…
The following applications are free: / .. / G.I.M.P. The GNU Image Manipulation Program has a lot of the features found on high-end commercial photo editors such as Adobe’s Photoshop. It’s perhaps the best and most featured of the free image editors available, and as such will enable many artists on a budget to reach their potential. It’s FREE, people! / .. / Paint.NET A good basic image editor. Stable (at least on my systems). REQUIRES .NET Framework. (read the requirements) / .. / RealWorld Paint.COM A very basic,but competent editor. They have paid apps too. / .. / IrfanView “IrfanView is a very fast, small, compact and innovative FREEWARE (for non-commercial use) graphic viewer for Windows 9x, ME, NT, 2000, XP, 2003 , 2008, Vista, Windows 7.” As recommended by RB’er Frisson . Thank you. / .. / Blender Blender is the free open source 3D content creation suite, available for all major operating systems under the GNU General Public License. I haven’t tried it, but I know others who do use it. Get into 3D for free. / .. / Free AAA 8bf plugins Photoshop plugins that are well worth a look. Created by a fellow named Jim Clatfelter. He has a ‘buzzer’ which renders painterly effects on images. / .. / About.com’s Top 10 Free Photo Editors for Windows Check ‘em out, folks. There are some there I didn’t think of. (see also this list at Basic-Digital-Photography.com Paid applications worth a look: / .. / Topaz Simplify Plugin at this writing it’s $39.99 I tried the trial and it’s on my list of wanna haves. Topaz Simplify is a Photoshop plugin. Topaz sort of fills the gap left by the demise of BuzzSimplifier (see below). / .. / NeatImage Noise filtration software available as photoshop plugins or a standalone application. I have the pro version of the standalone application which, when I bought it several years ago was around $89. It is perhaps the state of the art noise reduction software available. They did have a fully functional free version of the standalone which was prohibited by licensing requirements from being used for any commercial uses (read for sale images). It was fully functional. If you sell your work, you must pay and register. / .. / Terragen Terragen is a 3d landscape generator capable of stunningly beautiful output. Like most 3d apps, it has a learning curve. From the website: “You are required to register your copy of Terragen if it is for commercial use, as specified in the License Agreement presented to you when you install or first use Terragen. If you only intend to use Terragen personally, on a non-profit basis, registration is optional and you may continue to use the unregistered version of Terragen free of charge.” Registration for Terragen Classic is $100. Still a lot less than Bryce, Hexagon, etc., which are high-end commercial apps. / .. / Other informational or service related sites: / .. / PlugsNPixels “where you can get one-stop, organized information about creativity and productivity software and related educational materials more quickly and easily than from any other source.” -quote from the site. / .. / MyFreeCopyright A copyright registration site that gives you a digital fingerprint of your work so you can prove infringement if it occurs. I don’t use this service, but I see it being used by others here on RB and elsewhere. Check it out and make up your mind. / .. / A couple of sites added by RB’er Syd Baker / .. / So sad, here are some very good things we have lost: / .. / optikVerve virtualPhotographer plug-in formerly at www.optikvervelabs.com this was a really ‘neato’ photoshop plugin and it was free. If anyone finds that this has been picked up (legitimately) by another vendor, let me know (no warez links, please!) / .. / Buzz Simplifier What a loss that Fo2Pix is out of business! I wanted this one and never ‘got around’ to buying it – my procrastination has cost me so much over the years…..(sighs…)
Open Photoshop and choose a photo. / Resize the pho…
Open Photoshop and choose a photo. / Resize the photo to 400 pixels (width) don’t worry too much about the length as you will be changing it. / Choose the crop tool and crop the image to the length you want and, if you choose, width. / Choose the T tool (text) and draw a text box. Add your text, resize text, colour etc and save your Banner!!
About 4 months ago my sister told me that one of her friends was looking through our photos from our 2008 Europe trip. Her friend works f…
About 4 months ago my sister told me that one of her friends was looking through our photos from our 2008 Europe trip. Her friend works for a publishing company, and was impressed by the shots she saw, and wanted to use them in a book on Paris she was publishing. While I was excited at the time, didn’t get my hopes up about it, until it was actually done. In true Parmi style, I totally forgot about this until today, when a copy of the book turned up in the mail for me! The book is set for release on Dec 1st I am currently in a state of shock that 6 photos (5 of mine and 1 of my sister’s) have been used in the book! I had to make a journal entry to commemorate the event :) Below are the shots from the book and the original photos that I took while in Paris. So fitting that the book itself is PARIS – A Personal Guide To The City’s Best. Given that Paris is quite possibly my favourite city I have visited so far, this was poetic in it’s own way. / Paris Underground / My sister’s photo / Notre Dame / Notre Dame / Notre Dame / Pantheon Link to the book online All book shots taken from Shannon Bennett’s PARIS – A Guide To The City’s Best. Published by The Miegunyah Press 2009, copyright to Melbourne University Publishing Limited. Edit: I left to make a cup of coffee and came back to a massive outpouring of encouragement and congrats from so many of you! YOU GUYS ROCK! I am so supported on here by all of you and I can’t even express in words how incredible that feels! Thank you just doesn’t cut it!!! :)
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