Neutral 

351 creative works found

  • Glennifer Church, NSW / © Sarah Moore 2007 / / Featured Image on the Art Page / / Title taken from a list of water-colour pigments. / See my JE for further details. / Christmas Beautiful People Bellingen Great Gifts Sport

  • Carbon Neutral / a green twist on the periodic table of elements – a tee to honour the groundswell of awareness about our impact on the environment! YEAH! check out the ingredients tee range /

  • the last to leave I only knew you / twenty-nine days

  • We lay up on the golden sands – I got my equipment out Sony A100 / Sony kit lens

  • OK pirate fans, here’s a lassie to shiver your timbers. She’s ditched the parrot in favour of a raven, she’s kept the traditional tattoo and she’s donned a tight little dress that’s sure to keep her crew on their toes. ..................♥ the fine print ♥…............... (c) scarlett 2008 / This artwork is protected by copyright which does not transfer with sale. In plain English – while you’re buying a piece of artwork, you’re not buying the right to copy, print or reproduce it in any way. xxx scarlett

  • The Silk Princess / from the Asia Series by Karin Taylor taken from an original pencil, ink and charcoal illustration and digitally coloured.

  • The Silk Princess / from the Asia Series by Karin Taylor ...from an original pencil, ink and charcoal illustration and digitally coloured.

  • Help for Redbubble members
    by Mel Brackstone

    Karin Taylor, Jo O’Brien, Stuart Chapman, Lance Jackson, Ragman, Mark German, Steven Lippis, Simone Byrne and myself have added some v…

    Karin Taylor, Jo O’Brien, Stuart Chapman, Lance Jackson, Ragman, Mark German, Steven Lippis, Simone Byrne and myself have added some very useful tutorials and links for those members who’d like some help in learning a few extra tricks to make their time on the bubble easier. I have this link in my profile, so it’s going to be easy to find. I’ll add to it as I learn of new helpful information. How to enhance your profile Text formatting Where to get help/critique/FAQ Help on how to sell your work How to TAG your work effectively Inserting image links easily with Stuart Add category lists How to make smoke photos Digital Infrared info Ragman’s excellent advice on all things arty farty Mark German’s fantastic photographic techniques Steven gives an explanation on how to utilise a flash modifier My experience with Neutral Density Filters My hints on shooting at the beach Explaning focal lengths for digital Polarisers – a visual experiment

  • Credit Crisis / 2008 Lessons to be learned… lets be positive :D Jump men in suits jump… /

  • Semi abstract acrylic painting of a young woman’s back and buttocks. Painted in neutral shades. Painted on40×30cm 300gsm canvas tecture acid-free acrylic paper. / The original is for sale. Painted in acrylics on 20×15cm 300gsm canvas texture acid-free acrylic paper. / The original is framed and is for sale. / / / ! ! / A selection of products in my Zazzle store: More choices from Zazzle: / Wear My Art – Check out Female Contemporary Art on Apparel here: See more of taiche at ZAZZLE / Baby Custom T-Shirts :dress that baby up with a special design on a custom t-shirt, long sleeve or onesize / Kids Custom T-Shirts .from organic t-shirts to long sleeve shirts, boys, girls, and toddlers can fill their fashion needs with a one-of-a-kind custom t-shirts for kids. Check out the latest organic t-shirts, sweatshirts, and girls shirts. And plenty of styles for toddlers too! Aprons / Bags / Buttons / Cards / Hats / Keds Shoes / Keychains / Magnets / Mousepads / Mugs / Postage / Postcards / Stickers / T-Shirt / Ties Do not forget to check out my range of fully customisable calendars. Simply let me know your choice of images and months to show them and I will create especaillly for you. You can choose from any of my images.

  • Semi abstract acrylic painting of a young woman’s back and buttocks. Painted in neutral shades. Painted on40×30cm 300gsm canvas tecture acid-free acrylic paper. / The original is for sale. My Images Do Not Belong To The Public Domain. All images are copyright © taiche. All Rights Reserved. Copying, altering, displaying or redistribution of any of these images without written permission from the artist is strictly prohibited / More products available / Why not follow me on ACRYLIC ART CALENDARS CARDS POETRY PHOTOGRAPHY – ANIMALS PHOTOGRAPHY -CANDID SHOTS PHOTOGRAPHY – CATS AND DOGS PHOTOGRAPHY – CONTEMPORARY WORK PHOTOGRAPHY – FLOWERS PHOTOGRAPHY – INSECTS PHOTOGRAPHY – TRADITIONALLY TURKISH PHOTOGRAPHY – TREE AND TREE PARTS T-SHİRTS DIGITALLY MODIFIED ART / ACRYLIC PAINTING 2009 PENCIL WORKS on PAPER 2009 ACRYLIC PAİNTING 2008 TAICHE’S TEASE DIGITALLY MODIFIED ART EARLY WORKS FROM MASTERPIECE:NOT FOR SALE See more of taiche at ZAZZLE / Baby Custom T-Shirts :dress that baby up with a special design on a custom t-shirt, long sleeve or onesize / Kids Custom T-Shirts .from organic t-shirts to long sleeve shirts, boys, girls, and toddlers can fill their fashion needs with a one-of-a-kind custom t-shirts for kids. Check out the latest organic t-shirts, sweatshirts, and girls shirts. And plenty of styles for toddlers too! Aprons / Bags / Buttons / Cards / Hats / Keds Shoes / Keychains / Magnets / Mousepads / Mugs / Postage / Postcards / Stickers / T-Shirt / Ties*

  • Trying out an ND 4 plus a CIR polariser in the middle of the day to see what I could get with wave flowing motion. Beachport South Australia, back beach. Only time I could get down there was the middle of the day so will need to go back early or late in the day to try and get one of these right. Canon 400D 18-55, Tripod with ND 4 and CIR Polarising filters. Processed in Photoshop.

  • Silk Painting inspired from a trip to Venice. Featured in All Things Italian Group .Featured in Dimensions Group / Featured in JPG Cast Offs

  • Some hints on shooting at the beach
    by Mel Brackstone

    I typed all this out for Ben, who asked for some help, since he doesn’t live near any beach, and didn’t want to waste his time when he fi…

    I typed all this out for Ben, who asked for some help, since he doesn’t live near any beach, and didn’t want to waste his time when he finally made the long trek. Thought others might appreciate the info. I use my Canon 5D with Lee ND grads, mostly the darkest ones, for sunrise. I’ve never tried to shoot the ocean much after an hour or so after sunrise, and not been all that successful, unless it’s a cloudy day. You’ll need a tripod and cable release. The tripod just needs to be stable, and the cable release working. Then I set my camera on AV and start shooting with aperture at around f/8 or so while it’s dark, and closing it down as the light gets stronger, with ISO mostly 50….. There’s no formula I use, other than using AEB, to see if I can snag one that gets the sky right, then I look for the one with the right wave patterns. Sometimes I combine the two, sometimes I run them through photomatix. Sometimes they’re perfect. I use my 16-35mm nearly ALL the time when shooting seascapes, very rarely I’ve used the 70-200, and that’s only if there’s a detail that’s worth getting, like the shipwreck or some waterfalls over rocks from the surf…. Here the light is generally best till around 20mins after the sun goes down, or 30 mins before the sun comes up. If you have clouds, wait longer after sunset….you’ll probably get better colours. If you have clouds in the morning, you might be able to shoot longer after the sun comes up too, especially if the light breaks through…. The IR filter can come in handy once the light is stronger….here in Qld we have strong light for 12 hours a day or more, even in winter….IR is a blessing! I’ve never used a yellow filter….and wide angle with polarisers just don’t give good results, imho. Just keep checking your screen and moving around for different viewpoints. Everything will depend on how much water movement you prefer. This is a case of personal taste, and with practise you will work that out. Setting your camera on AV and using AEB will give you the three different exposures to see which works best, then you just adjust your aperture to slow it down, or speed it up….or add more filters…the darker it is, the longer the exposure…. Be careful of getting too close to the waves, and watch out for slippery rocks, they can be extremely dangerous! Here the tide surges more dangerously an hour before high tide. Make sure of tide times before you go, and be certain you have a way to escape from the beach if the tide is coming up….Rogue waves can, and do cause problems….try to go with someone who has local knowledge…. Wash your tripod off when you leave the beach, and again when you get home. Other than that, have fun!

  • Neutral Density Filters
    by Mel Brackstone

    I can’t talk about these filters in any sort of technical way, but I can explain what I bought, and how good they are at allowing you to …

    I can’t talk about these filters in any sort of technical way, but I can explain what I bought, and how good they are at allowing you to shoot dawn and sunset without losing all your sky detail. I started off with a set of Cokin P filters. The filters sit in a plastic holder, that attaches to the front of your lens by way of an adaptor ring. The ring needs to fit the front element of your main landscape lens. When I used the Canon 20D the Cokin P was fine, with no vignetting, but once I bought the full frame Canon 5D, my lens had to be closed down to 24mm wide. This was unacceptable to me, since I like wide landscapes. Looking into various other filters meant spending quite a bit more money, however, all the reviews showed Lee filters to be ideal. There are a couple of companies here in Oz that sell them, and after wasting time ordering and paying in advance to an overseas company, only to find that they were out of stock, with no idea of a delivery date, I asked for a refund and contacted Mediavision in Sydney. Geoff was very helpful, and gave me a quote for a foundation kit, wide angle adaptor ring, a set of 3 neutral density soft graduated filters, and a full 0.6 ND filter. Postage was only slightly extra, and I had them in my hot little hands within the week. Geoff also sent a Lee catalogue. / Mediavision Australia / Sydney Office:- 4 Monash Road,Gladesville NSW 2111 / Phone:(02) 9816 4055 Fax: (02) 9816 1661 / Melbourne Office :- 22 Yertchuk Avenue,Ashwood Victoria 3147 / Phone:- (03) 9807 5133 Fax:- (03) 9807 7814 When I go to the beach, I take a bag with just filters and holder. They all have their soft cloth or soft vinyl bags, and it’s easier to slip them in and out of there without having to take off my backpack. Before dawn I’ll generally just have the adaptor ring and holder on the lens, with no filter. As the sun gets closer to jumping up from under the horizon, the filters are brought into play. Usually I’ll add the 0.6 first, if there’s not much cloud around, and once the sun has risen, the 0.9 will be added on top. The soft graduation means that you can slide the filter up and down, even slightly below the horizon, and it doesn’t leave a solid line. I haven’t been in a situation where I think I’d need the hard grad, to be honest. The holder turns easily if you wish to switch to portrait mode, just remember to turn it back when you go back to landscape mode! Because I live in Queensland where the sun is especially bright, all year round, it’s important to have these filters to make the most of a good sky. It’s near impossible to capture sky detail AND foreground detail without them. I don’t shoot in the daytime if I can get away with it, usually we pack up and leave the beach within 30mins after sunrise. I believe that you can still make good use of the ND grads all through the day, but I don’t have any real experience of that. Even shooting waterfalls can be easier when using ND filters, because it cuts out some of the light that might otherwise over-expose your image if you’re trying for silky water. The only problems we’ve all had is when the sea mist is particularly bad. In that instance we are constantly looking for ways to clean the filters, and still haven’t come up with a satisfactory solution. If anyone can help, we’d be much obliged! I hope this helps, as I said, not techy, but may be helpful for anyone looking to know what to buy….. cheers This has also been added to the tips and advice forum of All Seascapes Group forum

  • Mixed Media and Acrylic with foil and metalics

  • Looking out to sea at Llandulas at Colwyn Bay , North Wales.

  • This is an older artwork of mine (from 2006) that I had forgotten about but some people seem to take a shine to. Created with felt tip pen and gold paint pen on recycled paper. View more of my artwork or buy signed matted archival art prints on my website at http://www.lynnetteshelley.com View the T-shirt here!

  • The NDx1000 Filter
    by Karl Williams

    As some of you know, I make considerable use of the NDx1000 filter to enable me to shoot long exposures in normal light with a view to pr…

    As some of you know, I make considerable use of the NDx1000 filter to enable me to shoot long exposures in normal light with a view to producing images like these: A number of you have asked me about this filter (what they are, where they can be purchased, how they are used etc.) so I thought it might be useful if I wrote a few details down. Most of you will be familiar with the use of neutral density filters, which are essentially “sunglasses for cameras” in that their sole purpose is to reduce the amount of light passing through the lens. The most common types are the NDx2, NDx4 and NDx8 filters which reduce the light by factors of 2 (1 stop), 4 (2 stops) and 8 (3 stops) and are readily available from camera shops and online suppliers. Although these can be used in any combination to produce a combined effect of anything up to NDx64 (6 stops), stacking is not generally recommended because of the problems of vignetting with anything approaching a standard or wide-angle focal length. Apart from anything else, a bit of common sense, and a rudimentary knowledge of optics, suggests that one layer of filtration is better than 3! The NDx1000 filter (approximately 10 stops) is, as far as I’m aware, only produced by one manufacturer (B+W) and is available as the B+W ND-110(3.0) filter. It is not generally available from high street camera shops but can be purchased online in the UK from Warehouse Express. Because of its comparative rarity, however, it tends to be (occasionally) in short supply and it is expensive. Currently, the cost of a 77mm filter (which fits the Canon 10-22mm zoom and the Sigma 10-20mm zoom) is £79.99 from Warehouse Express .. so it’s something you need to think seriously about before committing yourself. If you’re anything like me, your camera bag and computer are full of expensive gadgets and software which, at the time, you couldn’t possibly live without but which, in hindsight, you could all too easily live without! As far as the use of the filter goes, the major problem arises from the fact that it is so dark that it has all the light transmission properties of a lens cap .. you can see the sun through it, but that’s about it! Not only can you not see through it, neither can your autofocus gizmo and, given the sort of exposure times you’ll be dealing with (100+ secs), your “live view” screen will struggle as well. This means that all your composing, focussing and exposure measurement have to be done before you put the filter on the lens, and a wee bit of calculation has to be done to convert the “unfiltered” shutter speed to the “filtered” shutter speed. OK, it’s a bit of a bind but into every life a little rain must fall, as they say .. the end result is well worth it. So .. on to the nitty gritty. Here’s what to do: 1. CHECK YOUR BATTERY .. believe me, you do NOT want it going tits up in the middle of a long exposure! 2. Remove the standard UV or protection filter from the lens (if you want to avoid the possibility of vignetting when the ND filter is on), set the lens to “manual focus”, set the exposure programme to “manual” and set the camera up on the tripod. 3. Do the “composing and focussing” bit and adjust the aperture until you get “correct” exposure with a shutter speed of 1/10 sec (bear with me, there’s a reason for this); 4. Put the filter on the lens! 5. Cover up the eyepiece (some cameras come with a wee rubber eyepiece mask for this purpose) to avoid stray light leaking through the eyepiece onto the sensor. 6. Activate your “live view” facility. Yeah, I know I told you it would be virtually useless but you’ll see enough to know that light is getting through to the sensor. Apart from anything else, it locks up the mirror (at least it does on my Canon) and that’s always good practice for tripod shots. 7. Connect up your cable release, set the shutter speed to BULB and expose for 100 secs (which is 1000×1/10 .. now you can see the reason for choosing an easy “unfiltered” shutter speed). For those of you new to long exposures, the time will count off on your LCD screen .. so there’s no need for all this “1 potato, 2 potato, 3 potato ..” stuff we used to do in the old days. 8. Check the result; if it’s under-exposed (as it may well be, in my experience), increase the exposure time by half a stop (multiply by 1½ ) or a full stop (multiply by 2) as appropriate and re-shoot. Ignore the warm tone of the result .. this is something which is an inherent feature of the filter and can easily corrected at the processing stage. 9. If you’re planning to take bracketed shots for subsequent HDR processing (as was the case in both of the above shots), take further exposures at 4 times the exposure time in steps 7/8 and at ¼ that time. Do the latter one still on the BULB setting .. it’s easier than resetting the camera and a fraction of a second either way will make damn all difference. Finally, some rememberable “unfiltered/filtered” exposure conversions if the light is too bright (in step 3) to get an “unfiltered” exposure of 1/10 sec: 1/15 sec ~ 60 secs (more or less) / 1/20 sec ~ 50 secs (exactly) / 1/30 sec ~ 30 secs (more or less) GOOD LUCK! LATE AMENDMENT: I’ve added an extra step, which I’d forgotten in the original: putting the filter on the lens! “FOF (forgetful old fart) syndrome” strikes again!

  • It is such a crappy feeling to think you can have somthing, anticipate having it, and then finding out it is just out of your reach. Somthing we all can relate to every now and then. / Stock credits / Cat here / Bird here

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