Nd
147 creative works found
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taken on my way to the Stuibenfall near Umhausen Canon EOS 350D / Canon EF-S 18-55 / f/16 15s plus ND2.0 filter
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0.9 nd grad used for the sky
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The most amazing mist appeared as the sun rose. The air was very cold, and the water was warm…..thank goodness, since I was barefoot…Rainbow beach Canon 5D, 16-35mm at 26mm, f/7, three bracketted exposures blended in photomatix, ISO 100, Singh ray reverse grad 0.9 and Lee ND grad 0.9 Seascapes New Zealand Frogs Lensbaby Infrared Industrial Spam Panorama Landscapes Real Estate Series People Plastic People
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Dark Motions Convoluted images forming in my brain, intoxicated by the mental distortions of complex visions, finely interwoven in the cadence of emotions and thoughts that I feel as being only mine, even knowing they aren’t. The sea, the elements, the strength of nature, the perfect stir that most perfectly symbolizes our inner turbulence…. A study on movement and chaos shapes…. José Ramos / http://www.joseramos.net / ___ / Azenhas do Mar – Sintra – Portugal
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Canon 40D + Canon 10-22 + ND Filters
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Abundance – The Fountain http://www.joseramos.net A different approach, shot in the same day and place where I made the “The Infinity Fountain Photo”, capturing the same essence and feeling… Once more, standing alone in front of another memory, I harvest my thoughts from the infinity fountain ahead. The cycle repeats, as I find myself pulled away from the tedious life of today, feeling I could grab the source and remain there silently… After one hour of search and 20 minutes waiting under a rock for the intense rain to stop, the skies finally opened to let the sun set in and show it’s strength. The beach was absolutely desert, and the next 30 minutes were made of pure photographic pleasure… I came home wet and cold, but my inside was warm and soothed… José Ramos / http://www.joseramos.net / ____ / Shot in Algarve – Portugal
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Canon 40D + Canon 10-22 + Lee Filters (ND + Tobacco) at Sunset
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Rainbow beach – hmmm….is there an “oversaturated” group? lol Canon 5D, 16-35mm at 16mm, f/13, 1.3”, ISO 100, tripod, cable release, Singh Ray 0.9 reverse grad Seascapes New Zealand Frogs Lensbaby Infrared Industrial Spam Panorama Landscapes Real Estate Series People Plastic People
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Long-exposure captured near Idaho Springs – Colorado – Nikon D80 – +2ND filter
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Went down to Ricketts Point at sunset and was given a pretty good show shortly after the sun went over the horizon, how can that happen the sun doesn’t move? It got pretty windy and my remote decided to stop working but it was worth the 10 second wait for the self timer :) Taken with a Canon 400D and polariser as well as an ND4 grad filter, worked on in Adobe Lightroom 2. Click here for my other seascapes Featured in the Mornington Peninsula & Port Phillip Bay Group in Janurary 2009
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Trying out an ND 4 plus a CIR polariser in the middle of the day to see what I could get with wave flowing motion. Beachport South Australia, back beach. Only time I could get down there was the middle of the day so will need to go back early or late in the day to try and get one of these right. Canon 400D 18-55, Tripod with ND 4 and CIR Polarising filters. Processed in Photoshop.
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Early evening shot at the Port Fairy outflow pipe, Port fairy Victoria. The outflow goes beyond rock outcrops on Griffin Island, out through the cement structures that reach out into the ocean. Long exposure image taken with the Canon 400D, 18 -55 lens, CIR Polarising filter topped with an ND4.
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Forest fires and heat throughout Alaska have obscured the Chugach range and limited opportunities to practice landscape photography. I learned much after posing the query, What makes a good landscape photo?, but must wait to work on better foregrounds. However, upon reflection, ahem, other photographic opportunities exist. Nikon D200, Nikkor 70-300mm VR, f/5.6, 1/250, -0.67 exposure compensation, 85mm focal length, ISO 100, 2-stop ND grad, Speedlight SB-800 with diffuser bounced off white wall, Manfrotto tripod. Oh, and a patient poppy plucked from the wilds of Alaska. (If that’s not too anthropomorphic for you.)
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So here’s one of my first tries with the HiTech filter system (similar to Cokin, Lee etc). ..... and my first set of shots after nearly a month of not being able to get time to shoot. HELP / I ran into a little trouble with it on my 10-20 and other lenses – light seepage – light seems to enter between the gap formed by the front element and the filter holder and bounces around inbetween causing ghostly reflections (and in some cases perfect reflections of my front element) – could do with some advice on how to deal with it (here, I dealt with it by shooting with my back to the sun as far as possible – and blocking the gaps with my fingers) Nikon D80 / Sigma 10-20 at 15mm (it vignettes a bit even after I sawed off the front two holders – so forced to use 12mm and above) / 10-stop ND filter (HiTech) / f/11; 10 Secs; ISO 100
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I was fascinated by this green seaweed growing on these rocks by the shore – just had to capture them and so scaled down to an area I really shouldn’t have been near to get this shot. Nikon D80 / Sigma 10-20 – 14mm / f/11; 15 sec; ISO 100 / ND Filter – 10 Stop (HiTech) / 200+ views
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Update 21-July-09: Retitled the pic from “Salt flats on the horizon” to “Infinity over and over”. I got the title from a comment by Vicki Ferrari – Thanks Vicki! Miles of nothingness. At the far end the little glistening bits are mounds of salt. Till a few years back, the extent of the salt-flats was restricted to only that part. This area still had a little water. Now nothing. Nikon D80 / Sigma 10-20 @ 12mm / f/8; 1/90; ISO 100 / 2-stop Grad ND HiTech (0.6)
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A series about square formats with the horizon exactly in the middle. There’s a man standing on those posts… / Underexposing the sky while slightly over-exposing the water. / Shot at Domburg beach in The Netherlands. 10 stops ND filter / f/22 / ISO100 / 15mm / 79s (1min20s) exposure / A few miles further down the beach I captured this: /
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Cucumber Falls located on Cucumber Run in Ohiopyle State Park, Pennsylvania. Nikon D80 ~ 18-135mm ~ ISO100 ~ f/16~ Tripod ~ CPL, Split ND filter
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Fine art black and white print – available matted or framed.
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The NDx1000 Filter
by Karl WilliamsAs some of you know, I make considerable use of the NDx1000 filter to enable me to shoot long exposures in normal light with a view to pr…
As some of you know, I make considerable use of the NDx1000 filter to enable me to shoot long exposures in normal light with a view to producing images like these: A number of you have asked me about this filter (what they are, where they can be purchased, how they are used etc.) so I thought it might be useful if I wrote a few details down. Most of you will be familiar with the use of neutral density filters, which are essentially “sunglasses for cameras” in that their sole purpose is to reduce the amount of light passing through the lens. The most common types are the NDx2, NDx4 and NDx8 filters which reduce the light by factors of 2 (1 stop), 4 (2 stops) and 8 (3 stops) and are readily available from camera shops and online suppliers. Although these can be used in any combination to produce a combined effect of anything up to NDx64 (6 stops), stacking is not generally recommended because of the problems of vignetting with anything approaching a standard or wide-angle focal length. Apart from anything else, a bit of common sense, and a rudimentary knowledge of optics, suggests that one layer of filtration is better than 3! The NDx1000 filter (approximately 10 stops) is, as far as I’m aware, only produced by one manufacturer (B+W) and is available as the B+W ND-110(3.0) filter. It is not generally available from high street camera shops but can be purchased online in the UK from Warehouse Express. Because of its comparative rarity, however, it tends to be (occasionally) in short supply and it is expensive. Currently, the cost of a 77mm filter (which fits the Canon 10-22mm zoom and the Sigma 10-20mm zoom) is £79.99 from Warehouse Express .. so it’s something you need to think seriously about before committing yourself. If you’re anything like me, your camera bag and computer are full of expensive gadgets and software which, at the time, you couldn’t possibly live without but which, in hindsight, you could all too easily live without! As far as the use of the filter goes, the major problem arises from the fact that it is so dark that it has all the light transmission properties of a lens cap .. you can see the sun through it, but that’s about it! Not only can you not see through it, neither can your autofocus gizmo and, given the sort of exposure times you’ll be dealing with (100+ secs), your “live view” screen will struggle as well. This means that all your composing, focussing and exposure measurement have to be done before you put the filter on the lens, and a wee bit of calculation has to be done to convert the “unfiltered” shutter speed to the “filtered” shutter speed. OK, it’s a bit of a bind but into every life a little rain must fall, as they say .. the end result is well worth it. So .. on to the nitty gritty. Here’s what to do: 1. CHECK YOUR BATTERY .. believe me, you do NOT want it going tits up in the middle of a long exposure! 2. Remove the standard UV or protection filter from the lens (if you want to avoid the possibility of vignetting when the ND filter is on), set the lens to “manual focus”, set the exposure programme to “manual” and set the camera up on the tripod. 3. Do the “composing and focussing” bit and adjust the aperture until you get “correct” exposure with a shutter speed of 1/10 sec (bear with me, there’s a reason for this); 4. Put the filter on the lens! 5. Cover up the eyepiece (some cameras come with a wee rubber eyepiece mask for this purpose) to avoid stray light leaking through the eyepiece onto the sensor. 6. Activate your “live view” facility. Yeah, I know I told you it would be virtually useless but you’ll see enough to know that light is getting through to the sensor. Apart from anything else, it locks up the mirror (at least it does on my Canon) and that’s always good practice for tripod shots. 7. Connect up your cable release, set the shutter speed to BULB and expose for 100 secs (which is 1000×1/10 .. now you can see the reason for choosing an easy “unfiltered” shutter speed). For those of you new to long exposures, the time will count off on your LCD screen .. so there’s no need for all this “1 potato, 2 potato, 3 potato ..” stuff we used to do in the old days. 8. Check the result; if it’s under-exposed (as it may well be, in my experience), increase the exposure time by half a stop (multiply by 1½ ) or a full stop (multiply by 2) as appropriate and re-shoot. Ignore the warm tone of the result .. this is something which is an inherent feature of the filter and can easily corrected at the processing stage. 9. If you’re planning to take bracketed shots for subsequent HDR processing (as was the case in both of the above shots), take further exposures at 4 times the exposure time in steps 7/8 and at ¼ that time. Do the latter one still on the BULB setting .. it’s easier than resetting the camera and a fraction of a second either way will make damn all difference. Finally, some rememberable “unfiltered/filtered” exposure conversions if the light is too bright (in step 3) to get an “unfiltered” exposure of 1/10 sec: 1/15 sec ~ 60 secs (more or less) / 1/20 sec ~ 50 secs (exactly) / 1/30 sec ~ 30 secs (more or less) GOOD LUCK! LATE AMENDMENT: I’ve added an extra step, which I’d forgotten in the original: putting the filter on the lens! “FOF (forgetful old fart) syndrome” strikes again!
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Canon 50D / 52secs / AV / f13@16mm / ND 400 / ND grad / CS3 sorry another jetty shot, it was a cold and windy, winters evening, i hope this image conveys that i was bloody freezing whilst taking this one.
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I searched the internet for a really long exposure of Tahquamenon Falls but couldn’t find one. So I figured that my first real shot with my new 10 stop filter would be of this amazing falls. This is a blend of 3 long exposure shots. The first one was 4 minutes, the correctly exposed one was 5 minutes and the bright one was 6 minutes. / Black and white to come soon. / Canon xsi / B+W nd 1000 / B+W CPL
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Converted the color long exposure to LAB color and used the lightness channel as a base. Added a cooling filter to give it that icy cool. / Canon XSi / B+W nd1000 / B+W CPL
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