Australia
Australia
Australia
SOLD: Laminated Print / / / / /
SOLD: 3 Laminated prints / 6 cards Taken on the Hunter River. This is my most popular image….and it’s my best ever infrared. / / / / / /
Last one for the series. Similar to Fluid but different. / / I really liked the darkness at the top and bottom of this one. / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /
An infrared capture taken on Lake Macquarie, Newcastle, Australia. / / It was a really overcast day and a huge storm was rolling in. I managed to get a couple of shots off before the rain arrived. / / Camera: Fujifilm FinePix S7000 / ISO200 / f/4.0 / 1.3 sec exposure / R72 Filter / Tripod / Shutter Release SOLD: As a small laminated print to a Redbubble member / As a mounted Print to ? / 4 x as a card / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /
ISO200 / f/8 / 5.0sec exposure / R72 Filter / Shutter Release / Broken Tripod / / Processed in The Lightroom and Photoshop Elements 0.4 / Location: Tumut, NSW, Australia. / My Husband’s Great Grandparents Homestead / / I wanted this one to have an “old’ feel to it, considering the home was built in the 1920’s.
Newcastle Canoe Pool, NSW, Oz. Camera: FujiFilm FinePix S7000 / Date: 23/01/2008 8:16PM / ISO200 / f/8 / 6.5sec exposure / Cir Polarising Filter / ND4 / Bloody sensational tripod / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /
Was out trying some ‘different’ stuff with the infrared filter today. Went to the train station to catch a train (not literally of course) This was one of the results.. Camera: FujiFilm FinePix S7000 / ISO200 / f/5.0 / Focal Length: 7.8mm / Exposure: 3.0sec / Filter: R72 / Tripod
Sold: 1 small mounted print =-)
Back to infrared. Taken on the farm in Tumut on the Canon 450D. I promise I’ll think of a better title.
Infrared Canon EOS450D / HOYA R72 filter / ISO200 / f/5 / 15sec exposure / tripod / Gorgeous weather with fluffy white clouds. Hunter River, Newcastle NSW.
This started out as a fairly average snap….I think it’s turned out OK. I think I used about 5 layers of texture.
Taken in the grounds of Morisset Mental Hospital…yes, I felt quite at home =-)
This is an old infrared shot. I’ve been doing lots of portraits lately and haven’t had the opportunity to shoot much infrared . I found this one on the hard drive and had a little play with it. It was taken at a place called Little Pelican, down near Swansea. It’s part of Lake Macquarie.
Tonights Sunset at Warners Bay, Lake Macquarie, NSW. Long exposure: f/22, ISO100, 124sec. FEATURED in the “Light & Reflection” and the “Dawn & Dusk Light” groups
Another from this mornings sunrise.
Newcastle Beach. Canon EOS450D
Taken from inside Newcastle Canoe Pool at Newcastle Beach, Australia at 6:20AM.
An accompaniment to Going Nowhere / It is a combination of two photographs and four textures…from memory. / The main location was Edgeworth, Newcastle, NSW. (the shed is from the farm in Tumut)
I posted this a while ago but had to put it away until it was published in a magazine…well that magazine (Australian Digital Photograph…
I posted this a while ago but had to put it away until it was published in a magazine…well that magazine (Australian Digital Photography & Design) comes out next week (I think) so here you go…this is what I do….. HOW TO Shoot INFRARED IMAGES Characteristics of infrared photographs are deep black skies, bright white foliage and sometimes bright blue skies. Often quite mundane scenes can be transformed into extraordinary images when captured with infrared. / To achieve the effect, you need to use a lens filter that can block visible wavelengths of light, while allowing infrared (IR) light to pass through. The most readily available filter that can do this is an R72 screw-type filter. HOYA is the most popular but you can also purchase Lee and Cokin filters which act in the same manner. / All DSLR cameras are capable of detecting varying degrees of infrared light but manufacturers put permanent infrared blocking filters over the sensor to stop the infrared light penetrating. However, they still let some light through, so by placing an IR filter over your lens you will be able to capture these escaping wavelengths and thus a surreal image. / The downside to these IR filters is that they actually let in very little light of any kind so long exposures are necessary. Some cameras are more sensitive to IR than others but because you will have an exposure that it several seconds long a tripod is a necessity and a shutter release is optional. / Your IR filter will cut all visible light so the viewfinder will be rendered useless when it comes time to compose a shot. All images will need to be composed before the filter is attached. Point and shoot Digital Cameras are usually capable of seeing through the filter as the filters used to block the IR wavelengths are not as strong as those of the DSLR. So in many cases the filter can be attached when composing the image. As you will have a long exposure (of up to 20secs perhaps) still subjects are the easiest thing to shoot. Most successful IR shots are of landscapes. / An unedited IR imaged will take on a red hue and look un-useable, but this is just because you have not set a Custom White Balance (CWB). By attaching the filter and taking a shot of green grass and setting this as the CWB you will vastly improve your image. In doing this you will allow for mid-tones and whites to appear. Of course you can always adjust the white balance in Photoshop later. / All infrared images will need some post processing in Photoshop to get the best out of them. The simplest technique is to convert the image to Black and White and increase the contrast a little. This will achieve the classic infrared look achieved by infrared film. However, digital cameras can create false colours and can produce a surreal effect. Trees can be blue, the sky can be yellow and the ground red. .................................................................................................................................................... HOW TO PROCESS AN INFRARED IMAGE TO GET A SURREAL WINTERY FEEL. Step 0 — Bringing your file into Photoshop / Download your images – if RAW, convert (to tiff or jpeg) and bring into Photoshop. Note: Exposure and White Balance will make a difference on your final result, so there might be some trial and error – in general I set a Custom White Balance by attaching the R72 filter to the camera and shooting green grass. / Step 1 — Auto Levels / I always adjust the levels before progressing further. This will swing the colours significantly. SHIFT+CTRL+L is the shortcut for this process. If you have a good shot, tree leaves and clouds will appear close to White in colour and the sky will take on a yellow tinge. / Step 2 — Channel Mixer (Swap Red & Blue Channels) / From here on it is about shifting colours. If you want Blue sky you will need to swap the Red and Blue colors in your image. It is easiest to do this with the Channel Mixer. Image>Adjustment>Channel Mixer. / Set Red to 100% Blue / and set Blue to 100% Red. Leave Green 100% Green. / You could probably get a similar effect using Hue/Sat function to shift Hues, but Channel Mixer is MUCH easier. Step 3 — Levels (Clip Back and White Points) / Select IMAGE>ADJUSTMENTS>LEVELS and adjust the White and Black points. It seems beneficial to clip the Black point a bit and perhaps even the White point a little depending on the image exposure. Boosting midpoint may help as well (or may not). Input might be something like: 15, 1.10, 250 (for Black, Mid, and White) but this will be image dependent and you will have to tweak the settings. Experiment! / Step 4 — Hue/Sat (Adjust Sky & Cloud Color) / At this point your image should be pretty close, but you will probably want to further adjust Hue and Saturation. IMAGE>ADJUSTMENS> HUE & SATURATION. You can change individual colours by using the drop down menu in the EDIT box. To make the trees look whiter I reduced the saturation of all REDS in the image. / Step 5 — Brightness/Contrast / Now adjust the brightness/contrast of the image to bring out the colours just a bit more. IMAGE>ADJUSTMENT>BRIGHTNESS/CONTRAST. In this image I increased the contrast by 5. / Step 6 – Noise Reduction / A feature of classic infrared film images is the film grain. If you are not a fan of the noise produced by your long exposure then use a NOISE REDUCTION FILTER to remove any excess noise. / Step 7 – Burning / If some parts of your image are not as dark as you would like use the BURN TOOL to bring them out a bit. In this image some of the tree trunks are a bit pale for my liking so I am going to burn them slightly, especially the ones reflected in the water. Make sure that you set the Range to SHADOWS and the Exposure should be set very low. I have set it to 5. / And there you have it – a fully processed Infrared image.
I went to the beach today. It was hot. I got sun burnt and took this. Mererwether Beach ISO200 / f5.6 / 13sec exposure / lots of sun. I have now discovered that the Canon450D will actually focus with the IR filter attached….imagine that! Comes in bloody handy!
These are the oldest baths in NSW. About 1820, a natural pool was enlarged by convicts or soldiers, on the orders of Major James Thomas Morisset, Commandant of the Newcastle settlement from 1819 to 1822. Its original size is estimated as 15 feet long, seven feet wide and six feet deep. Initially reserved for military use, these baths apparently served for a time as Morisset’s private bathing place and were for many years known as the Commandant’s Bath.
This was taken at a place called Swansea which had these terrific pebbles on the beach. This was the sunset on my first day in Tassie. I managed to get awesome weather the whole time I was there.
Been doing lots of portraits lately. This was taken at “ABC Teralba Laundromat”. Thanks to my gracious model, Kim.
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