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• From Camera to Upload - Workflow
  by davoid

  Updates: 11th-Nov-07 added Pixel Dimensions, table of contents. Contents / Introduction / Compression / Pixel Dimensions / Workflow / Asp…

  Updates: 11th-Nov-07 added Pixel Dimensions, table of contents. Contents / Introduction / Compression / Pixel Dimensions / Workflow / Aspect Ratios So you’ve come to Red Bubble and like everyone else you want to upload some of your images. But how should I go about getting my camera’s images ready to upload? Firstly, most people have compact cameras and most of these create compressed JPEG (pronounced: Jay Peg) images in the 4:3 ratio. So I will start from this assumption. Compression / Your camera has settings for quality such as: fine, superfine, medium etc. This controls how much JPEG compression is applied to your camera’s images once a picture is captured. / The highest setting such as superfine has the least amount of compression applied to images so the image quality will be the best possible. The resulting file size will also be the largest of all the compression settings. / This is due to the fact that JPEG is a ‘lossy’ compression. Lossy compression removes data from the image and it is never replaced. So minimal compression means less of your image is thrown away resulting in a better quality image but more information to save. Three popular image editing software programs use a lossless compression for their native file formats: / Adobe Photoshop – PSD (e.g. imagename.psd) / Corel PaintShop – PSP / GIMP – XCF Lossless compression, removes data on saving but replaces it on reopening, so you can work on a file indefinitely without loss of quality (or information). Pixel Dimensions / Along with the compression settings your camera will have pixel dimension options. These often start with 640×480 and move up to the maximum that your camera is able to take ie. if the camera is a 7mp camera then the maximum pixel dimensions it will take will be around 7mp. Why ‘around’ 7mp? There is actual pixels and effective pixels. The actual pixels may be 7,300,000 but the pixels that are actually used to create an image might be 6,850,000 or similar; these are the effective pixels. / The effective pixels could also be 7,100,000, rather than, lower than 7mp as above. / Camera makers just round off to the nearest mega pixel. Some camera makers state the actual pixels on the camera casing and advertising rather than the effective pixels which is misleading and dishonest. If there is a possibility your photos will be uploaded to Red Bubble and you want to be able to get the biggest prints possible then you should set your camera to the highest pixel dimensions and the best quality. / On the other hand if you know you are only going to get 6” x 4” or 5” x 7” photolab prints then you can set your camera to the appropriate pixel dimension: Print size…..Pixels….............Megapixels…Camera Setting / 6” x 4”..........1800×1200….....2.16….............3mp / 5” x 7”..........1500×2100….....3.15….............4mp To cover both sizes just set your camera to the 4mp setting. If you never get 5” x 7” prints then set your camera to 3mp. / Not sure how to tell how many pixels your camera settings are? Just multiple both figures: ie. 1800×1200 = 2,160,000 pixels which is 2.16mp. How is the 1800×1200 pixels used by photo labs arrived at? 300DPI resolution is considered photographic quality so: Why bother to set your camera to a lower setting than the maximum? The size of files. 7mp images are bigger than 4mp images, so if you are taking a lot of images you can fit more 4mp images on your camera’s memory card than 7mp images. / Memory cards are large and cheap so why bother? Eventually your images will be transferred to your computer and 7mp images take up more disk space than 4mp images. If you have plenty of disk space and don’t mind larger files then just leave your camera at its highest setting. / The benefit of larger images is you can crop them and still create a 6” x 4” photo prints, and you have the option of larger prints at a good quality. Workflow / Take a photo with a digital camera / Camera compresses image into a JPEG file / Camera’s JPEG file is transferred to a computer / JPEG file is opened in an image editor such as Photoshop. / JPEG file is saved as PSD, PSP or XCF depending on your software. Now you have: / original.jpg – the original compressed JPEG file / original.psd (or psp, xcf) – the uncompressed version that is of the exact same quality as the original JPEG file. The difference is: you can open the PSD, PSP or XCF file and resave it without loss of quality, but if you open the JPEG file in an image editor and save it (JPEG as default), then you are compressing the file again. Overtime the file will degrade in quality if resaved as JPEG each time. Next: / PSD, PSP or XCF file is opened and adjusted for tone etc. / Image is cropped to from 4:3 ratio to 3:2 ratio (see section at the end) / Adjusted PSD, PSP or XCF file is ‘saved as’ another copy. Now you have: / original.jpg / original.psd / adjusted.psd Call the adjusted file something like: imagename 2 or imagename final. Next: / Adjusted PSD, PSP or XCF file is ‘saved as’ JPEG. If you want to upload your image it must be in the JPEG format so ‘save as’ again but this time change the file format to JPEG and choose the least amount of compression (highest quality) setting and choose either Baseline (Standard) or Baseline Optimized (optimized colour and slightly smaller file size) for the Format option. / You can name the file whatever you like at this point such as the title of the image but just make sure you can track back to the original JPEG and the PSD, PSP, or XCF files if you need to alter anything later. / I suggest renaming the original JPEG and the first PSD, PSP or XCF file to match the final title of the ‘upload’ JPEG, name the original JPEG from the start, or keep a Notepad or similar type file with a list of the Red Bubble JPEG and their corresponding files with names and locations on your computer. Now you have: / original.jpg / original.psd / adjusted.psd / adjusted.jpg You are ready to upload the adjusted.jpg to Red Bubble to be made into products. Aspect Ratios / As mentioned before, most compact cameras record their images in the 4:3 ratio but photo prints at a photolab or on Red Bubble are printed at the 3:2 ratio. / Something’s gotta give. Part of the 4:3 image must be removed by cropping (setting a dimension selection on an image and discarding anything outside this; like a biscuit (cookie) cutter and dough. This example uses Photoshop but should be similar in other image editors. See parentheses for generic terms. Marquee Tool (Selection tool) / - Style: Fixed Aspect Ratio / Enter height and width of 3 and 2. Transpose these numbers depending on portrait or landscape format. Now you have a selection tool that will default to a 3:2 ratio. Click and drag from outside of the image area (increase the document window if you can’t see any space surround the image area). E.g. click and drag from the right bottom corner outside of the image area until the selection (dashed lined box) won’t go any further. Now you have a 3:2 ratio selection at the maximum size for this image. As we will have to crop the image we want to lose the least amount of the image as possible. Your selection should be at the bottom of the image with a strip of image outside the selection across the top. If you crop the image now, that strip outside of the selection will be removed and you will have converted a 4:3 ratio image to a 3:2 image. But what if the best part of the image is at the top in that strip outside the selection? We have to move the selection. Using the keyboard: / the arrow keys will ‘nudge’ the selection at small increments but if you hold down the Shift key and use the arrows and the same time, the nudge will be in bigger increments. You can then release Shift and use just the arrows to be more precise. Once you have positioned the selection where appropriate you can crop the image. / Image>Crop For further information: / see my guide: Resolution, Pixel And DPI / Topics covered: / Terms Used / DPI / Digital Camera Resolution / Aspect Ratios / Screen Resolution / Scanning & Resizing Images / ...100% Reproduction / ...100% Plus Reproduction – Enlarging / ...Less Than 100% Reproduction – Reducing / Red Bubble Products

• HOW I HANDLE RAW IMAGE FILES
  by Steven Love

  Since there are a lot of opinions on how to work with RAW files I thought I’d write a journal entry explaining what I know about RAWs and…

  Since there are a lot of opinions on how to work with RAW files I thought I’d write a journal entry explaining what I know about RAWs and how I work with them. / . / This is a direct quote from my Olympus Camera manual; “RAW data is the unprocessed data from the camera’s sensor that has not undergone any changes or modification in white balance, sharpness, contrast or color.” / . / Generally speaking RAW is uncompressed relative to a compressed format such as JPEG. / However, RAW is compressed relative to TIFF (tagged image file format). / The difference between RAW and TIFF is that TIFF is completely uncompressed. When I shoot in RAW the file size is 13.5 megabytes. When I convert this to a TIFF the file size balloons to 23 megabytes. The reason for the size difference is because RAW uses what is called a “Lossless” compression algorythm similar to a compressed zip file. This method of compression preserves all image data with no losses. / . / JPEG ( joint photographic engineering group) uses what is called “Lossy” compression in which data is discarded or deleted in order to make room for the file compression. This results in loss of quality. Even at the highest quality setting there is still some loss of quality when converting a RAW or TIFF into a JPEG. / . / TIFF is the absolute best format for printing. In a TIFF all image data is there and there is no loss of quality when converting from a RAW to a TIFF. But TIFFs consume a lot of space on the Hard Drive relative to RAW. So TIFFs are not practical if you have a large number of TIFF images to store. / Another disadvantage is that TIFF is not uploadable on some websites and not all web browsers can read TIFF. / . / One solution is to use another format known as PNG (portable network graphic). / The PNG format uses the same lossless compression algorythm as a RAW making a PNG identical to a RAW in terms of file size and image quality preservation. / The main difference between a RAW and a PNG is that not all photo editing programs can read RAWs, but PNGs can be read by all photo editing programs including Photoshop. And some sites, such as RedBubble will accept PNG files but not RAWs or TIFFs. / . / It should be noted that Photoshop can read a RAW if you obtain what is called a “Plug-In” from the manufacturer of your camera and install it in the Photoshop Plug-Ins folder. This is necessary because one of the attributes of a RAW file is that there is extra data from the camera manufacturer in the RAW file that acts like a lock to prevent other programs from opening a RAW file. The Plug-In to Photoshop acts like a key that enables Photoshop to open the RAW file. Only then will you be able to use Photoshop to edit RAW files. / . / Some newer versions of Photoshop such as CS2 and CS3 may already have the Plug-Ins while older versions will have to be manually installed. I got the Plug-In when I logged onto the Adobe site and updated my CS2 version. / . / Now, the way I work with the RAWs is first I open it with Photoshop and then make all the necessary adjustments such as white balance, sharpness, contrast and so on. / Once all the adjustments are complete I then save the adjusted RAW as a PNG. This preserves the image quality of the RAW but as a PNG I can now upload it to internet sites that accept PNGs such as RedBubble. / . / By using PNG instead of JPEG your prints will be superior in color and clarity. / . / As an experiment I made a pair of prints off of my own printer to see if there was a visual difference. The result was interesting. / The print made from the PNG had brighter and more vivid colors than the version printed from the JPEG. / . / The JPEG version seemed more subdued in terms of overall brightness and color saturation. This is probably due to the compression of a JPEG. Even at the highest quality setting the JPEG has to discard some data to compress the image file. / It would appear that image brightness and color saturation is the first data to be discarded even with the JPEG quality at its highest setting. / . / My conclusion is the following; / If you want superior prints but also need to save space in your computer save your RAW as a PNG. / Use JPEG only if you have a slow dial-up connection or if the site your uploading to will only accept JPEG, otherwise PNG is the best. / . / Well, that’s how I handle RAWs. / . / If any of you have any additional information about RAWs that I did not cover here feel free to add them as a comment. / . / Thanks for taking the time to read this.

• Self-expression via blurry jpegs of material possessions
  by Grant Bissett

  I have a vintage stylophone, and a Sonic Youth poster. What? This is a journal.

  I have a vintage stylophone, and a Sonic Youth poster. What? This is a journal.

• If you're bored....
  by Brian Puhl IPA

  and only if you’re bored… come support me at JPG Magazine! I’ve submitted my piece ‘The End of a Voyage’ for their theme “Surroun…

  and only if you’re bored… come support me at JPG Magazine! I’ve submitted my piece ‘The End of a Voyage’ for their theme “Surroundings” Come vote for me! Don’t forget to add me if you’re already on there as well! Thanks to everyone for all the support you’ve given me in the past, I really couldn’t be where I am now without it!!! -Brian http://jpgmag.com/photos/362645

• 

  High Street Fashion
  by Andrew James McNulty

  US$3.14–US$83.60

  Taken in south Kensington, Greater London. 23/10/07 This image is up for submission at DIGITAL CAMERA MAG so please help me get this photo published and vote!! thanks you everyone.

• 

  fan leaf
  by Samantha Van Stralendorff

  US$4.13–US$110.20

• Using "Apophysis"
  by erinhagen

  Hello, Can anyone tell me if the program “Apophysis” will recognize PNG and JPEG files? I am having trouble importing these files. Do…

  Hello, Can anyone tell me if the program “Apophysis” will recognize PNG and JPEG files? I am having trouble importing these files. Does this program only recognize certain files, or am I doing something wrong? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Erin

• I need help please
  by Nina1962

  I have just brought myself my fisrt slr camera a canon 400D and today i took my some of my grand children to the beach. We had a great ti…

  I have just brought myself my fisrt slr camera a canon 400D and today i took my some of my grand children to the beach. We had a great time and of course I took heaps of photos, I finally worked out how to view a raw file but what I dont know and cannot work out is how to save a raw file as a jpeg file can anyone help me please Nina

• Help Please
  by dawnskaggs

  Ok I have a great idea for a t shirt and I cant get the file into the correct format. I am working on a MAC and have jpeg images and I c…