Journalism new 

381 creative works found

• New stuff: Ordering, blogs, community...
  by RedBubble

  More new stuff for you, and a few hints on what’s on the way soon… 1. Change the order of your art and designs! And check out the st…

  More new stuff for you, and a few hints on what’s on the way soon… 1. Change the order of your art and designs! And check out the stats on how many views, comments, favourites and sales each has received. 2. The Portfolio in MyBubble has been split into Art and Clothing sections. This is a precursor to giving art, writing, and clothing their own separate public areas. 3. “Journal entries” have been renamed blogs. We are working towards separating out “written work” (e.g. poems, stories, articles) from blogs, which should make a big difference to all you writers! 4. The old “people” page has been upgraded to community . Find out what’s happening on RedBubble, see which work is popular right now, meet featured people, and get involved in activities and competitions. Phew! It’s been a big week, but there is plenty more on the way soon…

• 

  Wave
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  Riding on Float, Gay Pride Parade, Summer 2006, New York City SOLD Challenge Finalist / Strike a Pose: The Human Position Analyzed Copyright

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  Wave Portrait - Black and White, New York City
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  Riding on a Float, Gay Pride Parade, Summer 2006, New York. Featured / MAJOR EVENT – Photography/Journalism Featured / The Woman Photographer SOLD Copyright

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  Motion
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  Candid, Washington Square Park, New York Featured / Men Appreciation group SOLD Copyright

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  Balance
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  Candid, Washington Square Park, New York City

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  Riding a Red Corsette
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  Candid, Folsom Street East Leather Festival, NYC SOLD Copyright

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  Banned Art
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  View across East River, New York Copyright

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  Skate Shoot - Street Scene, New York City
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  East 28th Street between Lex and Third, NYC HOME PAGE FEATURE / CHALLENGE WINNER / Motion Blur – People CHALLENGE WINNER / Urban Scene Challenge Finalist – 2nd Place / Fun in Black and White Copyright

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  Gray Skies Empire State Building
  by Judith Oppenheimer

  View from my deck facing west, looking at the Empire State Building in New York.

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  Hole in the Wall
  by Alison Johnston

  Located in Booderee National Park, Jervis Bay.

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  Shark Net Beach II
  by Alison Johnston

  Another shot of Shark Net Beach

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  After The Rain
  by Alison Johnston

  Taken at Plantation Point after a couple of days of heavy rain

• Dodging and Burning
  by Alison Johnston

  For some reason, people go a funny shade of green when one starts talking about Dodging and Burning …. nothing to fear at all. I’ve ju…

  For some reason, people go a funny shade of green when one starts talking about Dodging and Burning …. nothing to fear at all. I’ve just realised that I haven’t got any little images to insert in this tutorial …. I’ll make them later. Dodging and Burning is not difficult at all, when you realise that 20 low opacity strokes are better than one huge Dodge or Burn stroke. D&B is used to create precise shadow/highlight and can certainly add enormous amounts of lift/punch to an image. Most people would duplicate the layer to do some D&B on, and this is fine until you are working on a 10/15/20mb file and everytime you duplicate the layer the image size doubles. Unless you have a huge amount of RAM, your computer will slow down and sometimes even freeze. Is there a solution …. of course there is, its photoshop. So you’ve been working on an image, and naturally taken snapshots along the way. Now you decide that you would like to do some D&B. Click on the new layer icon on the bottom of the layers palette. Go to Edit>Fill>50%gray>click ok and that’s it LOL, nah, only kidding. Change the blend mode of this layer to soft light. Go grab the Burn tool (example), select whether you want to burn the highlights, midtones or shadows from the top menu and I would suggest quite strongly that you use a very low opacity – around 10% to start out with. I usually use a very soft brush for this and set the size according to what I’m going to be doing. The sheer beauty of using the 50% gray layer set to soft light is that you can simply turn the layer on and off to view your progress – don’t like what you’ve done … trash it and start again. Use exactly the same principle for the Dodge tool. Yet another way to D&B. Click on the new layer icon on the bottom of the layers palette, change the blend mode to soft light (without filling it with 50% gray), select your brush tool and make sure the foreground colour is set to black. Lower your brush opacity in the top menu bar to round about 10% again and start brushing where you want to Burn (darken) the area. Do exactly the same thing, only with white as the foreground colour to do some Dodging (lighten). Yet another interesting take on the above is that you can D&B with colours. Try it … grab your f/ground colour as red (example), check the opacity is down and Dodge or Burn away with that colour. Perhaps even pick a dark red (example) from the image itself to use as the Burn colour. Have fun, and don’t be afraid to roll up your sleeves and get stuck in. The sheer joy of photoshop is all the fun you can have with it.

• Lets make it rain with Photoshop
  by Alison Johnston

  Perhaps you want to composite some images together to make a scarey, stormy image. Or maybe you have an image that has storm clouds, is …

  Perhaps you want to composite some images together to make a scarey, stormy image. Or maybe you have an image that has storm clouds, is dark and overcast and would benefit with some rain added to it – or maybe some snow for that winters scene. Start and Finish Images Using a couple of filters and a blend mode in PS you can create away to your hearts content. The image I’ve used in the tutorial is 800×600 @ 72 dpi You will have to adjust some of the settings that I am going to use to compensate for a larger image and dpi, but I know you like to play in Photoshop :-) Firstly, open your chosen image, duplicate it and close the original. If you just want an image to practice on, you will find the start file HERE I’m using PS3, so my next step was to use a B&W adjustment layer to convert this particular image to B&W, I then used a Curves adjustment layer and then a Levels adjustment layer. You don’t have to convert to B&W, I just chose to do so because the original image sucks :-) How you want your image to be is fine, it is not going to affect what we are going to do next. So, whatever it is that you have done make sure that the top most layer is selected then I want you to create a new layer above. You can click on the new layer icon in the layers palette, or you can press shift+ctrl+n to bring up the new layer dialogue box and name the new layer. Now I want you to fill the new layer with black. If your f/ground and b/ground colour are set to the default you can press alt+backspace on your keyboard for window users and I’m not sure for mac users LOL probably option backspace. Now is starts to get fun. Making sure that you new black layer is active, I want you to go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise – below are the settings that I have used on this image, so punch in the same settings if you like. Go straight to Filter>Blur>Motion Blur and you can apply the settings that I have by punching in the same figures as the image below. If you want the rain to go straight down, or from a different angle altogether, just rotate the little angle wheel around till you get want you want. Next I want you to go to Image>Adjustments>Levels. In the image below you can see what the starting point will be for this particular image. I have made no adjustments as of yet. By bringing in the black slider toward the middle of the bar we start to creat the rain. The rain will be the white lines that you see in the image. You can see in the image below that I have taken the black slider in toward the middle and I have also moved the white slider in toward the middle slightly. How much you move each slider is entirely up to you. It will depend on how much rain you want in the image etc., So that’s the part where you get to play around because each image will require slightly modified settings. Right, so thats a mess LOL But, here comes the great part. Go to the Blending Mode option at the top of the layers palette and I want you to change it to Screen ….. look at that ….. magic! :-) Screen mode knocks out any black pixels and the multiply blend mode is the exact opposite to Screen if you want to knock out white pixels. All that is left to do now is change the opacity slider if you want. I’ve changed the opacity to 50% in the image below. And here is our completed image. View large file HERE

• Making Fog/Mist in Photoshop
  by Alison Johnston

  You may want to add some atmosphere to an image in the form of fog/mist and we can do this quite easily in Photoshop. First I’d like t…

  You may want to add some atmosphere to an image in the form of fog/mist and we can do this quite easily in Photoshop. First I’d like to thank MARK GERMAN for letting me use his Silence Lane image in this tutorial. If you don’t have an image to try this tutorial out on, you will have to contact Mark to ask his permission to use it. Here is our start image Our image with one application of fog/mist And I added another layer of fo/mist because I wanted to cover the bottom right of the image a little more. A larger view of the finished image is available HERE So lets get started. Open your image, duplicate and close the original. I want you to click on the new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette, or you can go to the top menu bar and go Layer>New>Layer, or press Ctrl+Shift+n. Making sure the new layer is active and that your foreground/background colours are set to the default of black/white (press d on the keyboard if they aren’t, or if white is the f/ground and black the b/ground, press x on the keyboard) go to the filter menu in the top tool bar and choose Render>Clouds. In this tutorial I have applied Render>Clouds once, if you would like some variation on this press Ctrl+f on the keyboard to repeat but you will also notice that the clouds appear differently each time. To get some rather different effects, instead of pressing Ctrl+f – press Ctrl+Alt+f ....... try it and see :-) So now we’re going to give the clouds a little blur. Go to Filter>Blur>Motion Blur and you can set the same amounts as I have in the image below. Most of what you do from now on will vary according to each image, and what it is you are trying to achieve. At the bottom of the layers palette you will see a little icon with FX on it, 2nd from left, I want you to click on that and choose Blending Options from the menu – alternatively you can go to the top menu bar and choose Layer>LayerStyle>Blending Options – and a dialogue box will appear like the one in the image below, I’ve highlighted the part of the dialogue box that we will be using next – ‘Blend If’ Make sure that ‘Blend If’ in the highlighted red area is set to gray. You’ll notice that the sliders have a triangle at each end (black and white) we will be concentrating on the black end, so don’t worry about the white slider. You’ll also notice that the triangle shape has a small white area in the middle of the slider, this is so that we can split the slider, which we are going to do now. Hold down the alt key (option for mac) and put your cursor to the right of the white area then click and drag the slider, it should now have split into a half triangle. Looking at the image below, move this half of the traingle to 125, then come back and move the left part of the half triangle to 25. When you’ve done that, click ok. Now I want you to press Ctrl+t on the keyboard to bring up the Transform tool, or you can go to Edit>Transform>Scale – you will have to decide at this point where you want the fog/mist to be and bring the top down accordingly, as I’ve done in the next image. What you will have to do next is throw in a gradient to take away the harsh transition. Making sure your f/ground and b/ground are set to the default, select the gradient tool and on the top menu bar make sure that black to transparent is selected. You need to do the gradient from the top to the bottom, BUT not from the top of the image, from above the harsh line of the clouds layer. You may have to do this more than once, just keep trying until you get a nice transition. In the image below I did the gradient 4 times till I got it how I wanted it. I then took the opacity of the layer down to 70%. I then duplicated the clouds layer by dragging it to the create a new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette and with that layer selected I grabbed my move tool from the side menu bar and moved it up until it was were I wanted it. Now I have a harsh transition at the bottom of this clouds layer, so do the same as above except start at the bottom of the harsh line and work upwards with your gradient. A bit of practice will make this a very simple task. I changed the opacity of this clouds layer to 60%. The image below shows the final work, which btw is different from the image at the top of this tutorial because I couldn’t remember what I had done LOL :-) And the larger image HERE Remember that all of these steps can be used in various ways on different images, not just to create fog/mist and they can be adapted to create the type of fog/mist you want – it is the process that is important.

• Grunge Text/Type
  by Alison Johnston

  So lets make some grungy text. You may never need this, but it’s simple to do … so why not! The image below is the only image we ar…

  So lets make some grungy text. You may never need this, but it’s simple to do … so why not! The image below is the only image we are going to be using today, but you will need the larger file, so clicky on THIS link. Copyright is mine – yada, yada. Open Photoshop and create a new file 800px X 600px, background set to white. Open the larger image (which you will have saved to your computer) and with your move tool selected and the shift key held down, drag the tree image over to your new file. Holding down the shift key will centre the image for you. Working on the trees layer Go to Image>Adjustments>Threshold and I want you to take the slider to the left until it reaches 80 (see image below). We’re aiming to get a lot of white in the image. Next we’re going to add the type. Select a foreground colour, I used Red. Grab your type tool and select Horizontal type – then go ahead and type something, I used RedBubble. (Arial Black > Regular>100pt>Sharp – for those who may be interested) Move your text to where you would like it to be, you can place it similar to where I placed, but it will need to be over some of the black. Once you’ve played around with this a couple times you’ll get a general idea of where the text should go. Before we go any further, we have to rasterize the text. You can either right click on the text layer and choose rasterize type or go to Layer>Rasterize>Type. Now the fun begins :-) click on the trees layer, the one you did the threshold adjustment on and select your magic wand tool, check that the contiguous box on the top menu bar is unchecked and select some of the black. Because you have the contiguous box unchecked, the magic wand tool will select all of the black areas. Now, hide the trees layer by clicking the little eye icon and click on the type layer, then press the delete key. Go to Select>deselect or press ctrl D on the keyboard. And there you have it, some grungey type text. Use your move tool to position the text wherever you want and you can drag the trees layer to the little garbage bin icon … cos you don’t need it anymore. I’ve cropped my final image. Larger file is HERE Enjoy playing, and if I haven’t made anything clear just ask me.

• 101 Photoshop Tips in 5 Mins with Deke McClelland
  by Alison Johnston

  I posted this in the Learning Centre thread over on the main forums, but thought it might be handy to make a journal entry so it doesn’t …

  I posted this in the Learning Centre thread over on the main forums, but thought it might be handy to make a journal entry so it doesn’t get lost in the soup. Surprisingly, I have learned more from this man about Photoshop, than anyone else ….. you’ll understand why I said that when you watch the podcast. Just a bit of fun on a Friday evening, all the tips are valid though :-) 101 Photoshop Tips in 5 Minutes And the text from the podcast. 101 Photoshop Tips in Five Minutes / The actual tips from 1 to 106 and back to 101 / by Deke McClelland Time it: Time: 00:00.00 / #1: Wanna copy a layer? I say jump it: Ctrl+J. / You a Mac user? Awesome. / #2: When I say Ctrl, press Cmd, the one with an apple on it. / #3: For a new layer, press Ctrl+Shift+N (Cmd-Shift-N on the Mac). / #4: To delete a layer, get the move tool and press Delete (or Control-Delete). / #5: Every letter selects a tool. / #6: Except F for full-screen, / #7: Q for quick mask, / #8: and D / #9: and X for default and switch colors. / Who knew X stood for “switch”? / #10: Press a number to change the opacity. / #11: Or two numbers for better control. / #12: Press Shift+plus to advance a blend mode; / #13: Shift+minus to back up. / #14: Press Shift and Alt with a letter for a specific mode. / #15: Mac folks, Alt means Option. / #16: Ctrl+plus zooms in. / #17: Ctrl+minus zooms out. / #18: Spacebar gets the hand so you can drag the image around. / #19: There’s also Ctrl+spacebar in / #20: and Alt+spacebar out. / #21: Ctrl+spacebar-drag to zoom way the hell in. / #22: Ctrl+Z undoes. / #23: Ctrl+Alt+Z backsteps. / #24: Ctrl+Shift+Z steps forward. / #25: Ctrl+Shift+F fades an edit. / #26: F12 reverts, / #27: Itself an undoable operation. / You hear that? You can undo a revert? That’s a hell of a tip! / All that pasteboard stuff works too: / #28: Ctrl+X cuts. / #29: Ctrl+C copies. / #30: Ctrl+V pastes. / Dan Gookin of DOS For Dummies fame joked that V stood for “vomit,” as in vomiting up the Clipboard. His publisher refused to print that. They actually refused to print that! Time: 01:15.43 / #31: Photoshop’s most essential command? Image Size: Ctrl+Alt+I. / #32: It’s partner, Canvas Size, Ctrl+Alt+C. / #33: Ctrl+F repeats the last filter. / #34: Ctrl+Alt+F for different settings. / #35: Using a selection tool? Drag to start a new selection / #36: Or move a selection outline. / #37: Shift adds to the selection. / #38: Alt deletes. / #39: Shift and Alt finds the intersection. / #40: Press the spacebar to move the selection on-the-fly. / #41: Ctrl+A selects everything; / #42: Ctrl+D selects nothing. / #43: Ctrl+Shift+I selects what’s not selected and deselects everything else. / #44: Ctrl+Alt+R brings up Refine Edge. / #45: Alt-click with the lasso tool to draw straight-sided selections. / #46: Shift-click with a brush to paint straight lines. / #47: Press Alt with a brush to get the color-lifting eyedropper. / #48: Press Ctrl to get the move tool. / #49: Ctrl+H hides selections and other “extras.” / What’s an extra? Press Ctrl+H and find out? / I gotta quicken the pace. Shit! / #50: Ctrl+1, / #51: 2, / #52: 3 to switch channels. / Hell yeah, I’m counting those as three! / Here’s another one: / #53: Ctrl+tilde for full-color composite. / #54: Ctrl+L for Levels, / #55: Ctrl+M for Curves, / #56: Ctrl+B for Color Balance, / #57: Ctrl+U for Hue/Saturation. / #58: Add Alt to bring up the last settings. / #59: Mash your fist on Ctrl, Shift, and Alt and press B for Black & White. / #60: In Levels and Curves, Alt-drag that white slider triangle to preview the clipped highlights / #61: Or that black one for clipped shadows. / Want to duplicate an image? Don’t choose this [Duplicate]; / #62: Just click here [Create new document from History state]. / #63: Press Ctrl+W to close an image. / #64: Y to save changes, / #65: N to abandon them. / #66: On the Mac, that’s S and D. / #67: Either way, it’s Esc for Cancel. / You know, Esc. C’mon, Esc! Time 02:48.36 / #68: Press Ctrl+T to invoke Free Transform. / #69: Press Enter to apply or Esc to skip it. / #70: Ctrl+Alt+T transforms a copy. / #71: Ctrl+Shift+T repeats the last transformation. / #72: Ctrl+Shift+Alt+T plays a transformation sequence. / #73: Press a bracket key to change the size of a brush. / #74: Press Shift+bracket to change its hardness. / #75: Caps Lock for precise cursors. / #76: Alt switches dodge to burn and burn to dodge. / #77: The comma and period keys cycle through gradients. / See this tool [sharpen]? Worthless. Look at this. You want this? Worthless! / Yes, that’s a tip: Don’t use the tool! / #78: Bang, there’s another one! / #79: Ctrl-click a thumbnail in the Layers, Channels, or Paths palette to load a selection. / #80: Press slash to lock a layer’s transparency. / #81: Press tilde to hide the image while viewing a mask. / #82: Press backslash to view the layer mask. / #83: Ctrl+Backspace fills the background color; / #84: Alt+Backspace: foreground color. / #85: Add Shift to fill just the opaque pixels. / #86: Press Shift+Backspace to get the Fill dialog box. / Hey, look at that! / #87: That’s trans lock’s opposite [Behind mode]. It locks opacity. / What the hell is it doing here? / #88: Ctrl+bracket moves layers forward and back. / #89: Add Shift to go all the way. / #90: Alt+bracket selects layers. / #91: Press Shift to select multiple layers. / Press Ctrl+Shift+A to select all layers. / #92: That’s wrong. It’s Ctrl+Alt+A! / I don’t even know what Ctrl+Shift+A does. / It doesn’t, Adobe, it doesn’t do anything! I don’t think it does anything. / #93: But Ctrl+G, that groups layers in a folder. / #94: Ctrl+E merges selected layers. / #95: Ctrl+Shift+E merges visible layers. / #96: Ctrl+Alt+E stamps a layer onto the one below. / #97: Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E merges everything on a new layer. / #98: Ctrl+Shift+C copies a merged version of the layers. / #99: Ctrl+Shift+V pastes an image in a selection. / #100: Alt-click here [Add layer mask] / #101: Or here [Cancel to Reset] / #102: Or here [trash without warning] / #103: Or here [color ramp to switch background color] / #104: Or here [eyeball to hide all others] / Yeah! / #105: Or here [horizontal line to make clipping mask] / #106: Or here [color swatch to delete]. Time: 05:08.16 / Holy crap, I just went over! 106 tips! No! No, no, no. / [to off-screen director] / You should’ve stopped me, you should’ve let me know. That’s your fault. / [to viewer] / That’s his fault. I do not fail. Remember, I do not fail! / Alt-clicks out. I want them all out. Gimme that time back! Time: 05: 27.92 / [clock rewinds] Time: 04:56.73 / Okay. Nicely done, me. For those wondering why I left out your favorite tips, / #100: Like Tab to hide all palettes / #101: Or Shift+Tab to hide just the right-side palettes. Time: 05:00.00 / I didn’t! Ha ha! I just mentioned ’em. Works for me!

• Etched Glass Effect in Photoshop
  by Alison Johnston

  You can make this an etched glass effect, or, by inverting the filter, make it appear as though the shape/type/whatever is moulded in the…

  You can make this an etched glass effect, or, by inverting the filter, make it appear as though the shape/type/whatever is moulded in the glass. Because my glass is light, I will be using a black filled shape. If your bottle or glass is dark, the type/shape/whatever, would need to be white. So lets get straight on with it. You can click through on my glass image below to get the larger start image, or you can use one of your own. Just remember that any settings I use are relevant to this file 720 X 1000 @72dpi. Your first step will be to create a new layer above the b/ground layer and then fill it with white … turn off the visibility of the layer by clicking on the little eyeball icon next to the layer. I’ve chosen the ‘Flower Oranment 2’ which is a Photoshop default shape, and I’ve drawn it on the glass …. see image below. Make sure that you are working on the Shape Layer (or type – making sure the spelling is correct) and go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur, a small dialogue box will appear asking you to rasterize the shape or type, click OK to make that happen and then choose a small amount of blur. I have used 2 pixels on this particular image … which might be a tad too much …. we’ll see. Next you are going to create a flattened copy of the image and save it to your desktop…or somewhere that you will remember, because we are going to be using it shortly. Go to Save As and when the dialogue box appears, make sure that your uncheck ‘layers’ and check ‘copy’ See image below. Now, duplicate the original b/ground layer and turn off the visibility of the shape layer and the layer you filled with white. Working on the duplicate b/ground layer go to Filter>Distort>Glass and the Filter Gallery dialogue box will appear. Look at the right hand side of this box and notice where it says Texture, click on the small arrow and a small box will appear that says load texture, click on this and load the file that you previously saved. As you can see, I called mine Flowerdistort. You can fiddle with the Distortion and Smoothing, but you will have to leave the Scaling as is. You can also check and uncheck the Invert box to see which variation you prefer. Once you have the settings as you like click OK to make it happen. And here is the image with Inverted checked. And that’s it. Fiddle around with the settings a bit till you get what you want, and remember that if the bottle, glass etc., is dark you will need to reverse the colours i.e. the layer will be filled with black and the shape or type would be white.

• Making Eyes Shine In Photoshop
  by Alison Johnston

  I’m all about the easiest way to get from A to B and the process in this tutorial of making the eyes sparkle and shine in a portrait, is …

  I’m all about the easiest way to get from A to B and the process in this tutorial of making the eyes sparkle and shine in a portrait, is definately easy. You could use this on animals as well if you wanted. You can download the image below to practise on if you like, just click through for the larger image. Open the image in Photoshop, and click on the little ying yang symbol at the bottom of the layers palette to create a curves adjustment layer. Do not adjust any setting, just click OK, then change the layer blend mode to Screen. Click on the mask, and then press Ctrl + i on your keyboard to invert. Or you can go to Image>Adjustments>Invert. Double click on the writing (Curves 1) to change the name of this layer to Iris. Click on the ying yang symbol again and click on curves, don’t change any settings just click OK. Change the blend mode of this layer to Multiply, click on the mask and hit Ctrl + i on the keyboard to invert the mask. Rename this layer Pupil. You should end up with something similar to the image below. Making sure that the foreground colour is white, that you are working on the ‘pupil’ layer mask, go and grab the pencil tool making sure that you are using a hard edge. You can simply press B on the keyboard to access the brush tool and to further scroll through to select the pencil tool use Shift + B on the keyboard. You’ll probably have to zoom in on this image to about 200%. Place the pencil over the pupil and use the right bracket key on the keyboard to increase (or the left bracket to decrease) the size of the pencil till if is covering the pupil and then click once. Go and do the same thing on the other eye :) Still using the pencil and adjusting the size accordingly, go over the outside band of the iris – the dark bit – I don’t know what they are called :) Look at the image below for an idea of what I am doing. At the moment this will look really dark, but we haven’t finished with it yet. Still on the Pupil Mask go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and perhaps use a radius of 1 on this image ….. it will be different on a larger image of course. Then take the opacity of the layer down to whatever suits you. I used about 25% which I can go back and change at any time because I have used an adjustment layer. Lets work on the Iris Mask now. With your f/ground set to white and a soft edged brush (adjust with the bracket keys to suit) and making sure that you are working on the mask by clicking on it – we’re going to look at the specular highlights first. This image has quite a few and I’ve chosen to leave the largest ones alone, just click once on some of the smaller ones. This is going to look pretty weird when you first do it :-) Just remember that you are working on a mask and by pressing X on the keyboard you can paint out any of the work you want to change – just remember to press X to switch back to white :) Still working on the layer mask, go to the top option bar and reduce the opacity of the brush to 50%. Now zoom in and paint over the Iris, because of the layer stack it won’t make any difference if you paint over the darker adjustments you just did. I took the opacity of the layer down to 50%. You could go ahead now and sharpen the eyes with your favourite method, or you could continue to adjust and enhance the eyes. I went ahead and added a bit of depth to the eyelashes. There is a tutorial on it HERE Once I was happy with the eyelashes I merged the layers … then I decided he might look nice with different coloured eyes :) I used a Selective Colour adjustment layer to turn his eyes green and finally flattened the image, duplicated the b/ground, set the blend mode to overlay used Filter>Other>High Pass to do some sharpening, and took the opacity of the layer down to 50%. And here is the end result – have fun :) EDIT – Here is a comparison image. 1st is the original – 2nd the enhanced – 3rd the colour change.

• 

  Paris Fashions of 1894
  by Marilyn Harris

  Blossom’s_Photo_Gallery Paris Fashions of 1894 A picture of The Young Ladies Journal – Paris Fashions of 1894 that adorns the wall of Craigmoor, Hill End, New South Wales. Craigmoor – Built for James Wiseman Marshall in 1875 Craigmoor is reputably modelled on the Duke of Gordon’s hunting lodge in Elgin Scotland, where James W. Marshall’s father was a tenant farmer on the Estate. James Wiseman Marshall was born in Scotland in 1828 (died 1905) and travelled to California in the 1850’s where a gold rush was beginning and from there came to Australia where gold had also been discovered, Hill End being one of the gold fields. James married Sarah Langshaw Adams (born 1836 died 1926) in 1858 at Tambaroora and they moved to Hill End in 1860, living in a wattle and daub hut on site. They had eleven children!!! The house was kept intact by the family and is now managed and maintained by the New South Wales National Parks & Wildlife Service and is periodically opened for public viewing.

• Another Portrait Effect In Photoshop
  by Alison Johnston

  I think this is one of the quickest and easiest ways to get a nice portrait in Photoshop. Again, it isn’t beauty retouching. Unlike the…

  I think this is one of the quickest and easiest ways to get a nice portrait in Photoshop. Again, it isn’t beauty retouching. Unlike the Dreamy Glow effect this should :-) be a little more realistic. You can use the image here to start with or use one of your own. Once you have the image open, duplicate it and then you are going to run the Surface Blur filter. If you are working with a version of Photoshop prior to CS2 you are going to have to use the Median filter, this filter isn’t quite as good as the Surface Blur filter but you should still be able to achieve a similar result. I’ve divided my image into two so that you can see what is going on – don’t you do this :-) unless you want to of course. You are looking to keep the lips, teeth, eyes to a certain degree – see image below. If you are working on the same image you can just punch in the same numbers. Still working on the blurred layer, hold down the Alt key and click on the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the layers palette. This will make the mask black (hide all) which is exactly what we want, because we are going to brush back in the Surface Blur. Make sure your f/ground colour is set to white and you have a comfortable size soft edged brush – start painting back in the face avoiding the eyebrows, eyes, mouth and teeth. If you make a mistake, just switch your f/ground to black by pressing x key on the keybaord, fix it, press x again to switch back to white. If you want to make sure that you have painted back in every bit of blur, Hold down the Alt key and click on the mask this will give you a B&W version – see below – and you can fix it from there. Alt click on the mask to take it back to the normal view. I’ve taken the opacity of the surface blur layer down to 80%, you can choose whatever you want. Normally, this is the time where you would start evening out the skin tones, but you’re not going to do that :-) Before you go any further, rename the layer you just did the surface blur on to ….. hmmm …. Surface Blur. Making sure that layer is active, hold the Alt key and click on the new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette – a small dialogue box will appear. If you don’t change the mode in the dialogue box, you won’t get the ‘Fill with soft light neutral colour 50% grey’ Now you’re going to pick a colour from the original b/ground to use on the face – so, with a soft edged brush selected hold down the Alt key and the brush will change to the eyedropper tool – once you have the colour selected just release the Alt key to go back to the brush. I used R-192 G-141 B-121. This is going to look terrible when you first brush it on – panic not – just dial the opacity of the layer down to about 40%. You will have to be quite careful with this layer, remember you are not working on a mask. The image below has the opacity at 100% and is not completely covered so that you can see what is happening. Turn the opacity down and complete the skin. The image below shows the completed colour with the opacity at 40% You can try some things now, like reducing the opacity of the surface blur layer … if you are using this image try about 55% and you could stop here if you wanted to – but there is more. Leave the opacity of the surface blur layer at 80% for the moment and the colour layer at 40%. All skin has some texture in it and you are going to replace some of the texture that was wiped out with the surface blur filter. Hold down the Alt key and press on the new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette – fill out the little dialogue box as you did earlier. Now go to Filter>Noise>Add Noise and use 5, Uniform, Monochromatic – press OK to accept. Now go to Filter>Stylize>Emboss and try an angle of -90, height 15, amount 100%. Next go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and on this particular image try a radius of 0.5 pixels. And there you have the texture for the new skin. Once you are happy with the portrait, flatten the image duplicate the layer change the blend mode to overlay and sharpen with the High Pass Filter – Alt click on the layer mask icon to get an inverted mask (black – hide all) and with a soft edged brush, brush back in the areas you want sharp. Try different opacity levels for the surface blur layer and the texture layer. I’ve gone ahead and lowered the opacity of the colour layer to 20%, left the blur and texture layers at 80% then used seperate layers created in the same way as you did before but without clipping them with the previous layer, to burn the eyebrows, eyelashes, eye makeup and hair – then did the same to use some dodge on the eyes and hair. You could also use another layer to slightly sharpen the image overall to give the skin a less blurred look, as I have in the image below.

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  p i n k
  by newyorknancy

• Use the impact of a new SHARE BUTTON to promote your work...
  by Nuh Sarche

  The best way to spread and promote your work is to add a SOCIAL BOOKMARK BUTTON to your profile and your artwork or t-shirt sites… A…

  The best way to spread and promote your work is to add a SOCIAL BOOKMARK BUTTON to your profile and your artwork or t-shirt sites… And there is a new and powerful one to do this, called ADD TO ANY… It has a lot of new undreamed-of possibilities for everyone to share and spread the news… Don’t wait until someone finds your work between all the great RedBubble artworks! Just add the button (remove the free space between the excalamation mark and the http) and spread it around….. ;) ! http://static.addtoany.com/buttons/share_save_171_16.png!:http://www.addtoany.com/share_save I wish you a lot of visitors, spreaders -> and many sales! With a lot of greetings Nuh Read also: Make it easy to share your work at the web!!! or Marketing strategies and photoshop tutorials at STOREROOM… or 7 Tools and 3 Essential Skills Every Artist Needs to be Successful Online

• Great free and cool new website for everyone: Flavors.me...
  by Nuh Sarche

  Join www.flavors.me and create a free professional website… !http://images-3.redbubble.net/img/art/size:lar…

  Join www.flavors.me and create a free professional website… / See mine as an example… Flavors.me allows everyone to create an elegant website using personal content from around the internet. Ideal for personal homepages, lifestreaming, splash and microsites, celebrity fan pages, commercial promotion, brand marketing – and everything in between… (Watch demo) Still as Beta (notify your e-mail to be one of the first using it!), but soon for everyone… You can create your site in 5 minutes, very easy and cool… I really recommend it for everyone… Greetings Nuh