‘The Ekka’ is the commonly used name for the Royal Queensland Show, formerly known as the Brisbane Exhibition. It typically runs for ten days each August, with a turnout of approximately 600,000 visitors. Taken with an Horizon 202 on Fuji Superia 100
Bored, so I got a Allen to come around and did the standard walk around in low llight. All these shots are straight out of the camera….
Bored, so I got a Allen to come around and did the standard walk around in low llight. All these shots are straight out of the camera. They’ve been cropped cus I didn’t want to upload the full size picture. No editing, no noise reduction. 1 ISO3600 f/2.8 1/60 / Allen (whoalse on RB)... / 2 ISO4000 f/5 1/60 / Mmm chicken rice for dinner. / 3 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/50 / Spice girls reunion tour… errgh / 4 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/40 / 5 ISO5600 f/2.8 1/60 / Some waiter in a restaurant. / 6 ISO4000 f/2.8 1/60 / 7 ISO2200 f/2.8 1/60 / 8 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/30 / 9 ISO4000 f/2.8 1/30 / 10 ISO2000 f/2.8 1/25 / 11 ISO1100 f/2.8 1/25 / 12 ISO3600 f/2.8 1/125 / 13 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/30 / 14 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/30 / 15 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/25 / 16 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/20 / Really pushing available light here…! / 17 ISO900 f/2.8 1/20 / 18 ISO6400 f/2.8 1/40 / 19 ISO500 f/2.8 1/6 / Leant the camera on a post so I could use lower ISO. / 20 ISO3200 f/2.8 1/20 / 21 ISO1400 f/2.8 1/5 / Another leaning-on-the-post one… / 22 ISO1000 f/2.8 1/30 / 23 ISO1250 f/2.8 1/30 / 24 ISO4000 f/2.8 1/30 / 25 ISO640 f/2.8 1/30 / 26 ISO900 f/2.8 1/30 / 27 ISO1000 f/2.8 1/30 /
I picked up my new Nikon D300 on Friday morning! and so far its everything I expected and more! I took it out for a test run that night…
I picked up my new Nikon D300 on Friday morning! and so far its everything I expected and more! I took it out for a test run that night to try some high ISO lowlight freehand shots and it was fantastic lived up to everything I had been told hardly any noise even at 3200 ISO !!!! Cant wait to test it out at my next wedding shoot!
... and even then its still a stop underexposed … and you have to wait another 16 seconds for dark frame subtraction … Digital SLR…
... and even then its still a stop underexposed … and you have to wait another 16 seconds for dark frame subtraction … Digital SLRs can be used for infrared photography, but they don’t necessarily make it easy (though its easier than trying to find rolls of films that haven’t been made for a few years!). The silicon sensors in digital SLRS are naturally very sensitive to infrared, but a very strong filter is added to drastically reduce the amount of infrared that gets to it. We need to work with the tiny amount that gets through! / And this results in the above exposure being needed with a Sony Alpha 700 when using a Wratten 87 equivalent filter. here’s the shot of a corner of my garden to show the result (exposure and whitebalance adjusted!): / (click for larger image) More information is available on my website
Thanks everyone for the huge wave of comments and favortings, it’s been a real lift. I grabbed my new camera this week, and got out a…
Thanks everyone for the huge wave of comments and favortings, it’s been a real lift. I grabbed my new camera this week, and got out and about to take photos of it. I’ve got a huge few weeks coming up, so I’m cramming in as much camera time as I can to prepare. Tomorrow, I’m off to the Cherry Rock festival in Melbourne, as a photographer for www.fasterlouder.com.au… it’s my first press pass type gig, so it’s nerve racking. The fact that it’s been moved from a laneway festival, into a series of shows at the Palace due to last minute mayhem makes it more challenging. I was on “band & social” shots, but that is goig to be tough as heck in there. We’ll see how she goes. Next week is my first planned photoshoot, that might be used for a magazine cover… more on that later though, I’m to scared to think about that at the moment Back to the D300… here is some of my favorite shots so far Chord – f1.8 1/500 ISO3200 Unimaginable ISO from my D80, I knew it was going to be better…. but that image has processing no noise reduction at all City Lights – f1.8 1/50 ISO3200 This came from fooling around in burst mode. The photo was taken outside the now infamous Spleen Bar at around 2am. I was annoying Seana by holding down the shutter release, and reeling off 6 frames per second… incredibly, 10-15 excellent photos came out of it, more due to her natural grace than my skill City Lights 2 – f1.8 1/160 ISO3200 (seeing a trend here?) This is my favorite, simply due to how impossible this photo would have been for me previously. Without a flash, and only a street light to work with, the D300 made this look like I knew what I was doing. Hopefully Seana reads this, so she finds out that this was the first jump she did…. the next 4 I made her repeat was more to amuse myself than to get another shot – the candid impromptu ones always look better ;) Focused – f1.8 1/30 ISO1600 Not the most action packed or energetic shot of the night, but one that I love. I’ve always had to dull the colours with high ISO shots from the D80. This came out clean and warm, without any of the colour bleeding I’m used to seeing A bigger collection of some of th band shots taken from the night are here So Cherry Rock tomorrow, which will be an awesome opportunity to catch some seriously rocking bands and fans in action. Prepare for another wave of ISO3200 photos then… for anyone 50/50 on upgrading to a D300 from a D40/D70/D80/D200… you have to do it.. now. Hopefully I’ll come to grips with it a bit more in the coming weeks, and really start to show what it can do
I’ve been trying my hand at nighttime photography and realized I have a lot of practice ahead of me, achieving just the right settings to…
I’ve been trying my hand at nighttime photography and realized I have a lot of practice ahead of me, achieving just the right settings to capture the picture that you want is not easy at all. While the highest ISO captures more light it creates more noise in the picture so I’ve been trying to get what I need with a lower ISO. But given I don’t have a tripod you can imagine the frustration. Ah well, in time hopefully someone can offer some tips and pointers. I have more features to brag about! / United States Group / Butterfly #3 And in the Toys and Puppets / 2 features – Betrayed and Rolling along
The Nikon D3 has changed photography forever! Being able to shoot at ISO’s far above what you would with film or digital and still retaining image quality!!! Awesome!!!!! Of late I have tried to push the boundry a little, by shooting at night or in dark places, hand held. Having the freedom to move around and shoot candid at night is something new. Nikon D3 / 55mm f1.2 MF Nikkor / ISO 3200 f1.4 1/640sec
The Nikon D3 has changed photography forever! Being able to shoot at ISO’s far above what you would with film or digital and still retaining image quality!!! Awesome!!!!! Of late I have tried to push the boundry a little, by shooting at night or in dark places, hand held. Having the freedom to move around and shoot candid at night is something new. Nikon D3 / 55mm f1.2 MF Nikkor / ISO 3200 f2 1/200sec
The Nikon D3 has changed photography forever! Being able to shoot at ISO’s far above what you would with film or digital and still retaining image quality!!! Awesome!!!!! Of late I have tried to push the boundry a little, by shooting at night or in dark places, hand held. Having the freedom to move around and shoot candid at night is something new. Nikon D3 / 55mm f1.2 MF Nikkor / ISO 3200 f2 1/40sec
The Nikon D3 has changed photography forever! Being able to shoot at ISO’s far above what you would with film or digital and still retaining image quality!!! Awesome!!!!! Of late I have tried to push the boundry a little, by shooting at night or in dark places, hand held. Having the freedom to move around and shoot candid at night is something new. Nikon D3 / 55mm f1.2 MF Nikkor / ISO 3200 f2.8 1/10sec
The Nikon D3 has changed photography forever! Being able to shoot at ISO’s far above what you would with film or digital and still retaining image quality!!! Awesome!!!!! Of late I have tried to push the boundry a little, by shooting at night or in dark places, hand held. Having the freedom to move around and shoot candid at night is something new. Nikon D3 / 55mm f1.2 MF Nikkor / ISO 6400 f5.6 1/5sec
Exposure is a combination of the amount of light and time that the light hits the sensor (or film). Exposure is controlled by aperture an…
A description of exposure and ISO that I created in response to a question in the Photography 101 group. I thought it might be of general interest.
When I first started with DSLR photography in 2007 I was obsessed with sharpness and depth of field using aperture priority at f/11 and a…
When I first started with DSLR photography in 2007 I was obsessed with sharpness and depth of field using aperture priority at f/11 and above I found I could get super sharp photography with my Nikon D80 and Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 as long as there was enough light or I used a tripod. Using the D80 with my Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 I found I almost always needed a monopod and to get best results, a tripod. As a result; on a 2007 Canadian holiday, I carried my tripod and 80-200 lens everywhere (sad I know.) I found that the D80 did not handle high ISO’s very well, hence the need for good light or a monopod / tripod. / / When I sold the D80 and Sigma and bought the D300 and Nikon 18-200VR lens my approach to my travel photography changed. I found that the high ISO abilities of the D300 to be superb and that the VR lens allowed me to go down to 1/15s and still get decent results. Clearly they were not as super sharp but I had found a balance between quality and convenience. Noise I can deal with in either Capture NX2 or Photoshop. Noise can be fixed, but images that have been spoiled by camera shake simply can’t. That is why I love the balance that is available by using a camera that has decent high ISO ability and a lens with image stabilisation. While I use Nikon, many modern cameras offer really good high ISO performance. And while I just love my Nikon 18-200VR, Sigma also makes a very impressive alternative. / / So; for travel photography I no longer bring a tripod and carry two lenses. I leave the tripod behind and use my 18-200VR for almost everything. (Although I always carry my Nikon 50mm f/1.8 as it weighs next to nothing and is arguably the sharpest and cheapest Nikon lens available!) I use my camera in ‘P’ for program and leave it there, unless I want to do something specific. When light is low I just ‘bump up the ISO’ in the knowledge that even at 1/15s it will still be sharp. / / This is good balance between quality and convenience. Whilst I know that full frame cameras (D700, D3, etc.) offer even better low light (high ISO) performance, I would be lost without my 18-200VR!
Another test shot standing on millenium bridge with full 300mm {12x zoom}
Dark image of a child’s carousel using grainy high-iso film, a Holga camera, and a blue flash. It’s doubtful that the manufacturer of this ride intended the horse to be shown with this scared expression on his face. (c) Paul Lavallee 2007 /
The Sunny 16 rule t-shirt..now inverted for more comfortable reading!! THANKS TO DAVID CHU / http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_blue/ / Wonderful photos!
Taken with: LCA+ / Film: Expired Fuji Sensia iso 400, cross processed
A simple guide on moving from snaps to something else …… or at least some casual reflections on how that might be possible. As a pre…
A simple guide on moving from snaps to something else …… or at least some casual reflections on how that might be possible. As a preamble, you may already know these, but they are keystones always worth remembering ….. 1) See 2) Shoot 3) Edit 1) First of all you need to see the shot, grasp the potential. It has to have narrative and not be too “busy”, unless, that is, you want to take a busy shot. But even images full of detail have to have a focussing theme or subject. When you look at that great view from the top of the mountain, or down a busy street in Taiwan, what do you want the viewer to see? Where do you want their eye to be drawn? What’s the story? / And then, what is there in the image that will distract the viewer from your artistic creation? Don’t just look at the thing that interests you, look around the viewfinder and pick out all the bits that distract and then move, zoom, reframe, do anything until it looks the way you want it to. And try looking first at the scene with one eye closed. It’s amazing how different the world looks in two dimensions – a bit like listening to music in mono rather than stereo (sounds “noisier”, doesn’t it – same with photos). 2) Set your camera to aperture-priority (except for those who shoot manually). Check the ISO speed (image sensor light sensitivity). Shoot RAW •You want to control depth of field (there are far too many shots around with areas in focus that shouldn’t be – they distract, big time). Everything should only be in focus if you want it that way. • Adjust IOS speed to a) give aperture options, especially in low light, when it may be essential, but also, in lower light a higher ISO speed will let you shoot with a smaller aperture – the smaller the aperture, the greater the depth-of-field. High ISO settings can produce lots of image noise (like film grain, or colour distortions – e.g. pink speckles in a blue sky), so watch for this. Top-end cameras have less, but it is always a possibility. This can be edited to varying degrees in software (see below). • But, in the end, ignore rules and play around with your camera and settings until you find what works for you – an aesthetic is a personal thing. The main thing is to know what is going on when you fiddle with all the controls on your camera – a professional dancer may make it look effortless, but they practiced a lot first! • One rule not to ignore is SHOOT RAW. This means that you capture all the info the camera can read, so you can edit it into a perfect shot! If you shoot jpgs, you really can’t edit anything much at all. 3) Learn how to edit. An image out of the camera is not a “true” record of what you saw, it is only one version, determined by the settings on the camera. To make it look like what your “mind” saw, you need to edit, and the best way to do this is by starting with as much “information” as you can – you need to record as much of the scene as you can. This means shoot RAW, if your camera has this setting. If is doesn’t and you are ambitious as a photographer, buy a new camera. Seriously, without this option you are like a painter being restricted to just a few colours. / Then, learn how to edit. I’ve seen so many great compositions on sites such as Redbubble taken by people with a great eye for a shot that unfortunately lack tone, contrast, depth etc. They look washed-out and flat. Learning to edit doesn’t, though, mean getting involved with heavy photo manipulation with Photoshop, there is free software given away with most mainstream cameras, so you can use that. But, if you want to buy software that will make your life a bit easier, try Adobe Lightroom and practice until it becomes second nature and your own particular aesthetic comes to the fore. You may be surprised how easy it is to get started and make significant progress. One last tip – only ever make public your very best work. Your portfolio will often be judged on your worst piece of work, not your best.
This was taken in almost complete darkness, with only 2 small lights on the wall. A flash was not used. Canon 7D with 17-85 lens. ISO was H, which is over 12,000. See in larger view. This is where the flowers go over the winter months.
A recent new release from Hassleblad has got me kind of excited so thought I might share my musings for all you gear freaks out there. / ...
A recent new release from Hassleblad has got me kind of excited so thought I might share my musings for all you gear freaks out there. The new camera is the Hassleblad H3dII-50 (link is to the 39 megapixel version). It has a 36×48mm 50 megapixel sensor which is kind of impressive but the thing that excites me is the multi shot mode “the ultimate choice for still life studio photography. Moiré free images that exhibit a level of sharpness, resolution and color fidelity that you have to experience to believe… High precision piezo motors control movements of the sensor in one pixel increments. By combining four shots, each offset by one pixel, the true colours, Red, Green and Blue of each point are obtained. The result is full colour information from the sensor with no artefacts like moiré, common with single shot capture.” Impressive huh, unfortunately I don’t have a spare AU$47,000 to buy one but if history is anything to go by, innovation happens at the top then works its way down so hopefully within a few years this technology will find it’s way into DSLR’s. I figure this huge market is so competitive between brands that competition will hopefully make this development inevitable. There is certainly evidence that the megapixel race is nearing the end if it isn’t in fact already over with major manufacturers now dropping megapixels in top models to increase ISO range (an amazing ISO 102400 in the latest models). I don’t think the full frame market will go much past 30megapixels. Being a fan of the quality of large format photography however the resolution possibilities of a 30mp multi shot would be quite exciting indeed. The other big feature development I’m hoping to see is in the area of dynamic range. It is said that 35mm slide film has a dynamic range of about 5 stops, 35mm negative film about 7 stops, digital about 10 stops, medium format about 12 stops. One specialist camera the blinc digital camera claims a 17 stop dynamic range. As the eye goes well beyond this again having a camera which could ‘see’ this way would be an amazing boon to photographers so it will be interesting to see how this area develops in the next few years. Much to the shagrin of my fellow Canon users and the ‘I told you so’s’ of my Nikon devoted friends I’ve recently started developing some Nikon feature envy. Unfortunately I’ve invested so much in Canon glass that I won’t be moving any time soon but the features I’d love to see incorporated in future Canon releases would be: • 5, 7 & 9 shot auto bracketing options. / • Ability to use mirror lock up and auto bracketing together. / • Crop frame option on full frame sensors (for wildlife shot, telephoto reach) and for that matter it would be kind of cool if a panorama crop option could also be incorporated while they’re at it. / • Ability to expose frames more than once. Guilty as charged I’m a gear freak. Ultimately of course the gear in your head is more important than the gear in your hand but it’s interesting to dream and speculate on the future from time to time. Cheers Trav
During a Workshop near Chamonix. / A very High ISO experimentation at night with a clear sky at 2200 m / This is the chesery lake , the ‘mont blanc’ lightened by city lights.
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