Ilford
52 creative works found
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Too close to the performer to get any full length shots and virtually no light, this was a bit difficult, but came out better than I could have hoped. Shooting Ilford Delta 3200.
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This was shot on on my Nikon FM2 with Ilford Delta 100 B&W Film. It is the first roll I ever developped myself, as part of my Black & White Course at the ACP. Random shots of my life in Como. Scanned of the negative. There will be heaps more to come over the next few weeks. I hope you like them. Please also visit my website alexkess.com and my photoblog . Cheers, Alex
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So you want to try film?
by Steven LippisNowadays, a lot of people have taken photos only with digital cameras, but I’ve seen more than a few express an interest in film, wonderi…
Nowadays, a lot of people have taken photos only with digital cameras, but I’ve seen more than a few express an interest in film, wondering what the fuss is all about and why people still use it. Which then raises the question, “should I try film?” I have to say, the answer is, “YES!” But Uncle Stevie, the man in the camera shop told me film is dead. / Of course he did! They make more money selling a $2,000 digital camera than selling a roll of film. A lot of consumer level films have been killed off, but for the most part the pro ranges are intact, and these are the films you want to be playing with. In fact, they’re far from gone. Fuji has continued to develop its portrait films, has introduced a brand new slide film, and has reintroduced the discontinued Velvia 50 due to high demand. But Uncle Stevie, film is too expensive! / It really depends on what you’re doing. Shooting a two day event on film is expensive, hell yeah. That’s the sort of thing where digital comes into its own. But going out on the town, taking some artistic shots, it’s not so bad. / 36 frames is plenty. No, you can’t check the viewfinder and retake the shot 100 times until you get it. But what you can do is think about what you’re doing. Really look at the surrounds, see what’s in the viewfinder, think about your aperture and shutter speed, and just nail the shot the first time. / You can buy a brand new Nikon FM10 with lens for $200US. Plenty of fully automatic cameras are for sale second hand for next to nothing. Even with buying the film and getting it processed, even getting a high res scan done, it’s a lot of rolls before you match the cost of a digital, which you’ll probably replace after 18 months in any case. I’m worried I’ll get the exposure wrong, and I won’t know without an LCD! / You know how your digital camera has that awesome built in meter that gets the exposure just right every time? / Guess what. They were around before digital cameras. Film cameras have built in meters as well, there’s very little that will go wrong. dSLR cameras are designed after film SLR cameras, you just have a lot less buttons to worry about with your film camera! What film should I use? / You have three options. Slide/transparency film, colour negative and black and white negative. The colour negative is the typical film most people use/used which you take into the shop and get your photos in an hour. They all use the same chemical processing (C-41), these can be processed and printed in virtually any minilab. While you can get consumer films in this, I’d suggest going for something a little more. My personal favourite are the Fuji portrait films. There’s a huge range available and each with its own characteristics. Slide, or transparencies are just that. Often mounted and projected straight from the processed film, this is the product of choice for landscape photographers. Very fine grained, these tend to cost a bit more both to buy and process, but the results are well worth it. Films such as Velvia are highly saturated, making colours just pop out of the image, which is why it’s most often used for landscapes. You can have prints done from slides as well. This is the Ilfochrome/cibachrome process, with often stunning results. Like the film, it’s more expensive, but well worth it. Black and white is probably the easiest option for doing it all yourself. Films, developers, papers and whole darkroom set ups are readily available so you can be a part of the process from start to finish. This is where the magic of photography comes from, seeing an image appear in the dim light of the darkroom. It’s something special. / This is where the most fun is to be had as well. Unlike the other two film types, there’s not one single process to use. There’s a multitude of film developers, each giving a different result with different films. Variable development times also give different results. This continues with a range of different papers, each with different qualities to fine tune your final image. It sounds difficult, but you just need to start with one film, one developer and master that before trying other products and getting a look which suits. You can experiment and develop your own look, or learn what each result gives and apply the best one to the particular image. If this doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, there’s always photo labs which will do it for you! While the answer to should you try film is ‘yes’, there’s no definitive answer to any other question with film. It’s a matter of using the product which best suits what you want to get out of your image making. If at all possible, DO find a good pro lab. In my experience the staff are often very friendly and helpful, and provide a much better service than a minilab. The APUG forum is a great place to find information about film and processing, and it has regional forums too, so you can find people in your local area. Fuji’s film range and information can be found here Kodak here and Ilford’s website is a great resource not only for black and white photo products, but it also has a forum and other helpful information. So why not give film a go. Who knows, you might fall in love with the magic of film.
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Taken on Ilford FP4+ 125 with a Lomo Lubitel 166B. / /
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A view with the dark inside of a tunnel forming a silhouetted outline to the jagged roof line and distant cliff-tops beyond, taken at Dunnottar Castle. From the first roll I developed in Moersch Tanol, a staining developer with gorgeous tonality and low grain.
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Leo and Saturn rising behind trees at Woodland Waters, Lincolnshire. / / Taken on Ilford FP4+ 125 with a Lomo Lubitel 166B. Approximately 30mins at f8. / /
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Every major city I’ve been in has its own prominent neon Coke sign and Buenos Aires is no exception. The coke sign in Sydney is the gateway to Kings Cross and all that goes on there and the coke sign in the city of Buenos Aires seems to be located in a fairly equivalent part of town. Shot with a tiny Russin lomo camera with Ilford HP5 b/w film on my recent visit to this amazing and vital city in Argentina.
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Sun behind clouds over Billingborough, Lincolnshire. / / Taken on Ilford FP4+ 125 with a Lomo Lubitel 166B. / /
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Looking along the length of the gorge just to the south of the approach Dunnottar Castle. From the first roll I developed in Moersch Tanol, a staining developer with gorgeous tonality and low grain.
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Photo taken in 1956, Ilford box camera, ex girlfriend of my Husband
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View over a bridge on a public footpath in a field on the outskirts of Billingborough, Lincolnshire. / / Taken on Ilford HP5+ 400 with a Lomo Lubitel 166B. / /
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La Recoleta in the centre of Buenos Aries, is a vast and extraordinary necropolis that has become relevant historical and artistic monuments of the country. Its were the remains of Eva Peron lie. And its just staggeringly beautiful and massive. Its a world class expamle of funeral architecture and has been declared a heritage site. Still using film here. Ifford HP5. Then given its dark sepia cast to intensify the nostalgic and removed qualities in the image.
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SETS. / / FINE ART / LANDSCAPES / SUNSETS / FINE ART PORTRAITS / ANIMALS
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As I enjoyed my cappocino and fiddled with my Bronica Zenza 6×6 (80mm f2.8) camera, I noticed this interesting character. The man sat there almost motionless. I motioned to him if it was ok for me to take the photo and he seemed to agree. I had to guess the exposure as I didn’t have my light metre out of my bag. The exposure came out fine (F2.8, 1/60th) and the focus is not bad considering the medium format and how clumsy the camera is in street photography. I processed the negative myself and scanned the image in on a Nikon film scanner. I have left the edge of the negative as it frames the image well and it appeals to my purist tendacies. This is one of my fravorite examples of my documentary work, it makes me think of how times have changed and how society changes and some people feel they can’t keep up.
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I waited and waited, for the crowded O’Hare airport to part for a second so I could take this photograph. I love it so much. Holga / Ilford 400 / negative scan Buy this print! Thank you for any comments and fav’s!
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Yeah i´ve got my new scanner, so i was able to scan some of my old work, / this picture was shot on ilford HP5plus, developed in rodinal 1+25 scanned with an epson v700 and overworked in photoshop (worked out the grain so its more visible).
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Standing on the shores of Loch Rannoch one evening, looking past submerged trees over to Schiehallion in the distance.
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Waterfalls in the River Etive; the flow was sufficiently fast and choppy that this blur occurred at only 1/8s exposure. Shen-Hao 5×4” camera, Ilford FP4+, Rodinal (APH09).
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Fitzroy, Melbourne. currently available for sale in the melbourne silver miners redbubble page
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Another random images taken while I was in Buenos Aries recently with my little Russian Lomo failed spy camera that I just love to bits and bits. Shot with Iford HP5 super real b/w film and with a touch of post processing.
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Protection for a tree in a field in Billingborough, Lincolnshire. / / Taken on Ilford FP4+ 125 with a Lomo Lubitel 166B TLR camera. / /
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Taken with an Olympus OM-10 with 55mm 1.2 on Ilford Pan F+.
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Shot with the Holga 120N in New York, on Ilford XP-2
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Yeah, one of the most photographed motives in Berlin, but i thought it would be nice to take one of it, with the creepy holga loaded with ilford xp2. / thanks for looking!
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