Hey! Just uploaded some pics that were taken by Caterina, a good friend of mine. She wanted to borrow my Canon 400D to learn some more…
Hey! Just uploaded some pics that were taken by Caterina, a good friend of mine. She wanted to borrow my Canon 400D to learn some more about using digital SLR cameras. This was her second attempt at using the camera. The first time was when she came along with myself and Shane Walker for a trek to the Lemonthyme forest. (She took some great shots then too!) So yeah, basically the new photos are the result of a night playing around in the dark by the Mersey River in Devonport. Some serious work was done, as well as a lot of experimenting with a green laser light, capturing weird ghost like images. Heaps of fun!
Hello there. I haven’t really been very creative of late, which has been pretty shit; been having mental problems and life trauma, but it…
Hello there. I haven’t really been very creative of late, which has been pretty shit; been having mental problems and life trauma, but its pretty okay right now. But yes, Im back baby! Back with my camera, reunited and uploading onto RB. It’s all good! Yesterday, I effed around with some light painting, and I got this result. / cropped / And today, well tonight, I done some more. My brother :P and this was taken using a strobe light :P / cropped / Im really looking forward to experimenting more, achieving new effects. Hoping you are well Lots of love, Craig xx
The 3rd challenge is being hosted by the ‘Calendars R Us’ group and this time it’s something more specific and should result in some exci…
The 3rd challenge is being hosted by the ‘Calendars R Us’ group and this time it’s something more specific and should result in some exciting images to grace the Long Exposure photography calendar!
Thank you very much for my feature in this group I appreciate it a lot!. !http://images-1.redbubble.net/img/art/size:large/view:main/1…
Thank you very much for my feature in this group I appreciate it a lot!.
Please come visit and join our group all artists with “High Key” images you would like to submit. High Key Group...
Please come visit and join our group all artists with “High Key” images you would like to submit. High Key Group High Key Wikipedia definition: High-key lighting is a style of lighting for film, television, or photography that aims to reduce the lighting ratio present in the scene. This was originally done partly for technological reasons, since early film and television did not deal well with high contrast ratios, but now is used to suggest an upbeat mood. It is often used in sitcoms and comedies. High-key lighting is usually quite homogeneous and free from dark shadows. Submitted Images should show the classic High Key look. White background, high contrast, high exposure, almost all white. Thank you!!
After seeing the community post on light pain…
After seeing the community post on light painting yesterday, I thought I’d throw up some of the work I have been doing with LEDs. It’s actually for a stop motion film idea I have, except it’s going to take until 2046 to complete, I expect, so to feel like something is being achieved I have made some colourful wavy stills to please the occipital. I recommend this as a way to pass dark winter evenings. / / / / / / / / /
Night photography introduces new challenges, low light levels make exposure difficult, harsh lights add reflections, the slow shutter s…
Night photography introduces new challenges, low light levels make exposure difficult, harsh lights add reflections, the slow shutter speeds means difficulty in steadying the camera. Often night scenes lack the details needed to give depth to a photo so try adding a distinctive foreground object to give the shot some depth Night guard was shot with a Nikon D2H 14mm lens EI200 30sec f4.0 manual settings on tripod / Mounting the camera on a tripod usually eliminates the shakiness common to slow shutter speeds. Without a tripod brace yourself and experiment. Try holding the camera on a fencpost or wall for support. Use a remote shutter release to reduce vibration. / Compensating for bright lights in the scene will make for better exposures. Bright lights shining in the camera will fool your light meter so you may need to underexpose. Lightning shot with Nikon D2h 14mm lens EI400 4 sec. f5.6 aperture priority, minus 1.7 stops / When metering any night time scene remember that your light meter is trying to make everything 18% grey. So without exposure compensation the black night sky may look grey. To compensate I usually do a test of under exposures to find one I like. Shoot the scene at 1, 2 and 3 full stops under exposure then check the histograms or previews. / When shooting in automatic or program modes your camera will tend to choose wide open apertures. These large f stops reduce the resolution of many lenses so you might want to use manual modes. Shooting at f5.0-f11 will add sharpness and increase depth of field Special effects / Time exposures with action, A 1-2 second exposure during a fireworks grand finale will capture some rockets trailing skywards while other are exploding at elevation. Riverside fireworks was shot with a Nikon D2H 70mm lens EI200 1 sec f5.0 aperture priority, minus 1.3 stops / / Shooting over water adds the reflection of the rockets’ red glare. Zooming in during the exposure. / Boom was shot with a Nikon D2H 35-70mm lens EI400 1 sec f5.0 aperture priority, minus 1.3 stops zoomed in during exposure / Remember to stabilize your camera and experiment, make many exposures and check your results. “Fireworks and other things that light up the night sky” was featured in MAJOR EVENT 7/30/09
First let’s discuss lighting. Most of our photos are made under existing light conditions. This can be natural sunlight or moonlight. W…
First let’s discuss lighting. Most of our photos are made under existing light conditions. This can be natural sunlight or moonlight. While the rest of our photographs are made under artificial light, candles, room lamps, flash, stadium or city lights. Most of our stored imagery is of scenes lit from above. So we often associate natural light as coming from above the subject. Let’s do a little experiment go outdoors and hold your hand out, palm toward you, see the effect of sunlight on your hand. Now turn your body so the sun is on your back and directly on your hand. Look at the detail and color of your hand in “direct light”. Now turn so the sun is from the side move those fingers and look at the shadows created by “side light”. Now turn again until your hand is between you and the sun to see the effect of “back light” note the difficulty adjusting between your eyes on the backlit hand and the rest of the scene. You camera will have that same difficulty in capturing backlit subjects. This example uses strong side light coming through the windows to increase the drama of the scene. / Nikon FTN/F36 with 105mm lens Kodak Tri-X 125sec/f5.6 / A camera mounted flash would have exposed the photo but would also ruin the effect of the strong side light. A camera mounted flash tends to produce a flat lighting, eliminating the shadows that give a feeling of depth to your photos. A flash could be bounced off of a side wall however to simulate window lighting. And a flash can be aimer upwards to bounce light off of the ceiling giving us that familiar down light look. Exposure / In the days of film the manufacturers would include an instruction sheet with each roll of film. On these information sheets would be rudimentary exposure information an example is inside this box of Kodak Ektachrome film ASA 200 / / Kodak box courtesy of Rick Bender A general rule of thumb for handheld shooting was to use a shutter speed no slower than the films ASA and shoot at F16 on a bright sunny day. In the past a photographer would have to make adjustments to shutter speed and aperture, while looking through the viewfinder, to align arrows, make dots appear or receive some other indication of correct exposure. This allowed awareness to prepare the photographer for shooting a slow shutter speed or give us an indication of depth of field. After shooting tens of thousands of rolls of Kodak Tri-x film I got to anticipate exposures. If entering a building my camera would be preset to 1/60sec f4, a home would be 1/30sec f2.8 and outdoors 1/250 @ f11. If I had to make a grab shot without setup I knew I would capture a useable image. We now have sophisticated light meters built into today’s modern cameras Exposure programs give the photographer many choices of exposure profiles to apply. Aperture priority lets you select an aperture to use and the camera selects a shutter speed to expose the image. Shutter priority allows the photographer to choose a specific shutter speed, to stop action for example, while the meter selects an aperture for correct exposure, Program modes and Auto are other common profiles that select both the shutter speed and aperture to use. Many of today’s cameras allow programming under or over exposure compensation and some even allow shooting bursts at several different exposures. The result of all of this automation is that many photographers have no idea what settings their camera is using. So when “The picture doesn’t turn out” we have no idea what went wrong. So pay attention, shoot and review what you do. Oh yes and have some fun-Larry Grayam /
Here is a selection of my favourite work in my folio, and would all make great Christmas gifts, and look great hanging on any wall! A…
Here is a selection of my favourite work in my folio, and would all make great Christmas gifts, and look great hanging on any wall! All my work is available in different styles and formats available through redbubble, and here is a preview: Farm Windmill Mosman Bay Boatshed At Dusk Jetty At Dusk Water Under The Bridge Cygnets Mobile Home Crawley Edge Boatshed Swan River Jetty At Sunset Thunderstorm At Dusk Bathed In Light Bathed In Gold Moody Morning Crepuscular Rays Sunshine After the Storm Reflections Kwinana Grain Jetty At Dusk Crawley Edge Boatshed Panorama Pink Cherry Blossom Flowers Standing out in a crowd Lake Clifton Thrombolites Lake Clifton Thrombolites Lily flower Mammatus clouds Honey Bee Lancelin Sand Dune Dusk At The Dunes Lancelin Sand Dune Three Of A Kind Path Of Shadows Sand dune / / Decoy At Sunrise Peaking through the window Kalbarri Beach / / Kalbarri Beach / / Kalbarri Beach Pinnacles / / Boat on the beach DNA Tower at Sunset Perth City Dusk Kings Park Lights Kings Park Lights Peak Hour Traffic Noble Falls Panorama Collie Dam Bird on a branch / / Black Swans Farm Trees At Sunset Chinese Meal Chinese Noodles Chinese Noodles Having trouble choosing a single artwork? Maybe My 2010 Calendar Is what your looking for! “
I’m coming up to Sydney later in December for various reasons including a couple of night and day shoots, centrally and perhaps around so…
I’m coming up to Sydney later in December for various reasons including a couple of night and day shoots, centrally and perhaps around some of the icons and also to do some exploring away from the typical Sydney based icons. I’m interested in anything architectural or design related, people, cityscapes, laneways and alleyways. It’s basically a short trip to gain some inspiration and remove myself from my comfort zone in Melbourne. If there is anyone based in Sydney interested in joining me, you are more than welcome. Any suggestions or ideas for some places to go, shoot or experience are also welcome. Please feel free to reply here or bubblemail if you are interested in joining me.
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