I’m not sure what type of flower this is, but it looks very spring like in the middle of a Minnesota March snow storm. This was taken from a bouquet in my Fathers dining room. Enjoy, Coop
Untouched macro photograph. Best viewed LARGE
The patch tool is often a very underutilized tool in Photoshop. Hidden under the Spot healing brush and 2 other tools, the Patch tool i…
The patch tool is often a very underutilized tool in Photoshop. Hidden under the Spot healing brush and 2 other tools, the Patch tool is similar to a combination of the lasso tool and the healing tool. You select an area, click the appropriate button (source or destination- mine is usually on source) and then drag the selection to another area that has characteristics that fit your needs. For example, in one of my photos, “Fall in the Hills”, the photo was dotted with houses and roads that didn’t add to the composition. I simply drew around the houses and roads with the patch tool and drug them into an area with trees. The result is no more houses/roads, that simple. The patch tool is often superior and easier to use than the clone tool, especially for large areas, achieving better results. Another example, if someone has black rings under the eyes, you trace around the area that needs work on, select “source” in the Tools Option Bar right above the Tools Palette), and drag it to an another area of skin that has a more likely color. Make sure that the area you are dragging to is blemish free, as you will pick up any blemishes that are in the destination area. The best way to see how this tool works is to practice with it. Easy to use, you can cut your work time way down by using this over the clone tool. I rarely use the spot healing tools any more as well, finding this faster and easier. For most general use, it is easy to use. It takes a little more practice to use when there are lines in the area that needs to be fixed. You must drag it to a destination that has the lines at the exact same angle. / The patch tool goes all the way back to Photoshop 7, and has been improved on in the newer versions of Photoshop.
I haven’t gone all fancy like Danny with sunsets and bunnies … but I think I did good :B
Leather riding jacket
Hey all, / Below are a list of easy keyboard commands for Photoshop. I’m using a regular PC (Windows) but if you use a mac, all of the con…
Hey all, / Below are a list of easy keyboard commands for Photoshop. I’m using a regular PC (Windows) but if you use a mac, all of the controls will be different…and because I don’t have a Mac within reach, I can’t get the commands for that. Sorry Mac users! Control + N = Opening a New Canvas / Control + O = Opening a new project from a different file (such as a photo) / Control + Z = Undo very last action; nothing past that. / Control + Alt + Z = Undo past actions; infinite. / Control + Shift + Z = Redo an action (that is, if you have already undone an action.) / Control + Shift + F = Fade… (This is a VERY useful tool that I just discovered about 2 minutes ago…For example, you draw something a little too light…do this command then you can make the brush stroke’s opacity darker! Again, VERY useful!) / Control + X = Cut / Control + C = Copy / Control + V = Paste / Control + Shift + V = Paste Into (Don’t know exactly what this does for sure yet but, apparently it’s useful?) / Control + I = Invert (makes a negative [or positive] of the image selected) / Control + A = Selects the whole canvas / Control + Shift + D = Reselects the part that was once selected, then deselected. / Control + D = Deselects the canvas / Control + – = Zoom Out / Control + + = Zoom In And there’s plenty more but these are the basic necessary keyboard commands for Photoshop. -Brittany
All The Materials Contained May Not Be Reproduced, Copied, Edited, Published, Transmitted Or Uploaded In Any Way Without My Permission. / © 2008 Forest Friends Photography: using this image for any purpose and in any way, without prior permission, may lead to legal action. This beautiful Bengal Tiger is demonstrating the softer side of his personality by rolling over to show off his tummy just as a domestic cat or dog would do.
A wise man once uttered the words, pimpin’ aint’ easy. Well, let me tell you that zombie pimpin’ aint’ any easier. There aint’ a ho in town that’ll give you more guff than a zombie ho. Not to mention the fact that they often use too much teeth on occasions when the concept of very little teeth is preferred. (Try collecting money from a john after a mess like that.) Even in death though, the one thing the zombie pimp never looses is his undeniable sense of style. You wish you owned a bright purple, silky velvet jacket and the zebra stripped undershirt that compliments it like no other..admit it.
Do you know about words called “homonyms”? / This is an example of it… Have fun! / p.s. If you like to have it in any other color theme do not hesitate to ask me:) Another Style of This Tee: / More Photos: / /
The most recent addition to my family….Thoroughbred gelding Dingo (A.K.A “Damigos”)....enjoying his new life off the track. xo
little mitchell runs and plays in the fountain at Glenelg South Australia
Add Beve to Your Watchlist
touch me and find out! / ha!
Ladybug climbing a rose bush. / Camera: Canon Rebel XT (DSLR) / Lens: 75-300mm zoom @ 300mm / Cropped and enhanced With MS Picture It and Noise Ninja.
wouldn’t it be nice? / / . /
A unique & lovely night time image of a sunset as seen with palm tree silhouettes in the foreground….nice & soft! Enjoy this picture I took while on vacation with my lovely daughters in Perdido Key, Florida! Smiles Leilani
Just a quickie for now guys. Several people have asked me how I did the following shot of my son Lee and the one of me (if you can remem…
Just a quickie for now guys. Several people have asked me how I did the following shot of my son Lee and the one of me (if you can remember) as the six amigos (now taken off the bubble) It was originally just for a bit of fun as I wanted to try out a technique I’d seen in a photo magazine and to be honest, it is fairly easy really and you should be able to do it with two or more shots. For example; a landscape shot of rolling hills and add a photo of you in front of them. I used Photoshop Elements 7 for this. This shot is a combination of several shots I took of Lee in our back garden, * LOL The hardest part is working out the continuity and the scenes have to be spot on even though in my shot if you look really close you will see discrepancies. However, it was just for a bit of fun and in this shot it was only the third time I have tried it. It helps if you have a tripod to stop the camera from moving and it is YOUR subject which moves to different positions NOT the camera. The camera stays in the same position always, fixed on the tripod. So think of the final shot you want to achieve first and then work backwards taking several shots of what you feel you can use even if you don’t use them all. I think I took 12 or 15 shots and just used the five you see here. In Photoshop open one of the shots, preferably a copy. Now open another one from the sequence you want to use. It helps if you do the background ones first, you’ll see why as you go along. Go to Layers Duplicate Layer then OK Then go to Lasso Tool and drawer around what you want, ie, YOU. I am saying YOU as an example to make it easier as we go along, in my case it was LEE. Go to Edit and then Copy which copies YOU to the clipboard. Then Paste onto the first photo – the YOU clip you copied will be placed anywhere on the photo when it is pasted so to move it into place click onto the move tool. You will be able to slide the clip of you into place now. Go to Layers Flatten Layers Go to Layers again Duplicate Layer then OK Now close the photo you copied YOU from and open another one and go through the same process as you did before. It helps when you do the photo shoot especially if it is outside if you can do the photos all at the same time frame to keep the sky, lighting, shadows etc the same in each shot. After you have copied all the shots of you and saved it as one photo, you will want to check; Any discrepancies in the shot and tweak it if needed, then go to; Layers for a bit of extra Contrast if needed. Then Huh and Saturation. Flatten Layers. Save as usual and there you have it *A fantastic work of art Even if you never use the combined shots (which would be a shame) it really is a lot of fun. And it may seem hard here as I have explained it (and there may be other ways of doing it) but give it a go you’ll see your creativeness go up a notch. Thanks for reading and good luck and most of all remember, HAVE FUN.
Open Photoshop and choose a photo. / Resize the pho…
Open Photoshop and choose a photo. / Resize the photo to 400 pixels (width) don’t worry too much about the length as you will be changing it. / Choose the crop tool and crop the image to the length you want and, if you choose, width. / Choose the T tool (text) and draw a text box. Add your text, resize text, colour etc and save your Banner!!
I often have photographs I have taken with my tilt+shift lens mistaken for post-processed images, for the simple reason the replication o…
I often have photographs I have taken with my tilt+shift lens mistaken for post-processed images, for the simple reason the replication of the blur effect (tilt) and the perspective straightening (shift) is more commonly done by the latter means than through actual use of this rather special lens. In recent months I have been using my Canon TS-E 24mm f3.5L Tilt+Shift Lens more and more, both as a prime and with its specialist functions engaged, which includes the ability to rotate the lens 180 degrees in 30 degree increments. After 18 months of using it, I am beginning to revel in its creative possibilities in camera. In fact, the more I use it, the less inclined I am to spend the $700 needed to have my 24-70 f2.8L repaired after a fall onto rocks at Crescent Head. But to serve as an answer as to how the functions of a tilt+shift lens work their magic, I have created this guide. All the photographs below were shot using the Canon 5D Mark II on a tripod and with mirror lock-up engaged. All were shot at ISO 50. First, below is an image shot with the above tilt+shift lens. The Canon TS-E 24mm f3.5L Tilt+Shift Lens is a manual-focus only lens, but even so the Canon 5D Mark II camera recognises it and provides AF assist. No filters on this occasion. Aperture at f4 and speed 1/40th of a second. No post processing. As you can see, a tilt+shift lens can be used as a normal prime lens, and this particular lens gives excellent results used in this manner. The image was shot in Monochrome because when the tilt function especially is engaged, the absence of colour can enhance the effect and give the image that olde-worldly look, which I am happen to enjoy creating in-camera. The first trick to engaging tilt or shift or rotate on the lens is that you need to focus the image before any of those functions engaged. I mostly then take a shot anyway, as with this one. The Tilt Effect Manipulated photos that look miniatures or toy sets are all the rage, for example here. The image is usually described as an example of tilt-shift, when in fact it is a replication of the tilt effect. The best replications are those taken from high above looking down at the subjects, using a long focal length. As my tilt+shift lens is only 24mm I don’t both trying, nevertheless sometimes I do achieve that miniature look. The replication of the effect in Photoshop et al is achieved by blurring selected parts of an otherwise in-focus image. The tilt effect using a tilt+shift lens is the opposite – I use it to concentrate the focus achieved onto one part of the image: The thing to note is the area of focus. The camera was left untouched in horizontal mode, but the focus is a vertical area from the top of the image to the bottom, which is why the plant in the foreground is just as focused as the middle of the tree trunk behind it. Recall, this image was shot at f4 and yet I have focus from foreground to midground. This is one reason why a tilt+shift lens can be used to achieve focus throughout the focal range of, say, a park or coastal shot. Awesome. How was this done? Here is the lens with the tilt function set at -8 degrees, which is what I set for the above image. As you can see the focus plane is no longer parallel to the sensor plane. I can tilt the lens to the left to a maximum of -8 degrees or the to the right to a maximum of +8 degrees. Another way of imagining how it works is to think of focusing on a flat surface in front of the lens. Keeping the centre of the surface still, if you turn the surface to the left a bit you are bringing that side closer to the camera lens and hence out of focus, and you are taking the right hand side further away from the lens but also out of focus. Maximum blur is achieved at -8 or +8 degrees. Another thing to note is that you can rotate the lens with tilt engaged to turn the focus from line vertical to horizontal. With the newer Canon TS-E 24mm f3.5L Mark II Tilt+Shift Lens, I understand you can turn the Tilt function without having to rotate. But on this occasion I turned the camera to vertical mode and took another shot. Now look at the focus line: Even though, again, this image was shot a tf4 I have focus, now horizontal, throughout the focal length as it follows the fence line. Imagine the possibilities of this feature! The Shift Effect This is the shift function engaged on the lens at -11mm: As you can see, the shift function does what it says – it shifts the lens parallel to the sensor plane. When I look through the viewfinder and turn the Shift knob, I can be suddenly looking at the ground or sky. Sometimes I will then move the entire lens to bring the subject back into frame and this will result in perspective being changed. For example, I can use the shift function to straighten the lines of a building I am shooting, and this is why the tilt+shift lenses are popular with architectural and interior photographers. Indeed, I acquired mine from one of them. The shift function also allows for panoramas of 3 images or more to be shot without moving the camera. If you’ve ever tried multiple image panos you’ll understand the benefit of using a tilt+shift lens. For example, my most popular image on RB, with over 5100 views and 235 favouritings and in the top 100 of all-time popular images on RB, is a merge of 3 shots using my tilt+shift lens and shifting it for each shot at maximum shift -11mm, 0mm, and +11mm: Two reasons why this image “stands out” is the seamless merge, given the camera was not moved for each shot, and the almost 180 degrees of tree showing in the image without it looking like a wide angle, and hence distorted, shot. The roots at the base of the image were basically at the foot of the tripod, for example, yet the camera was pointed directly on a horizontal plane at the tree. You can replicate the shift function, to some extent, in Photoshop, by selecting Correct Camera Distortion from the Filter drop-down menu, like so: then adjusting the Perspective Control in the toolbox which then opens, like so: The Tilt and Shift Effect Last, but by no means least, you can shoot an image with both the tilt function and the shift function engaged, like so: Compare the above with another shot using the 24mm f3.5L Tilt+Shift Lens as a prime and you will see how the shift version, at +11mm, has slightly “straightened” the waterfall: So, hopefully the above explains how a tilt+shift lens works and how creative it allows you to be! Cheers
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