Depth of field
713 creative works found
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Enjoy!
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Water drops caught in a Mottlecah flower. Shallow depth-of field. Kings Park
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© Claire McAdams / ALL RIGHTS RESERVED I took some advice I got on my studio flower shot and shot another picture of the same flower using ambient lighting and a shallow depth of field. Any thoughts?
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Okay well this morning I felt the urge to get out and finally take some new pics and the first thing that caught my eye was a bunch of dandelions that were starting to break apart.. However I didn’t feel like just taking a plain shot of a dandelion, I felt like doing something a tad more artistic, so today I have a series of three dandelion shots that I have processed in an artistic way to break free of the standard flower macro bounds.. I am open to all feedback because I will only keep shots uploaded that people think are worth being on the sight.. Thanks for having a look! This would have to be the least artistic shot of this morning, as the only real major treatment here was implementing a monochromatic filter and then a sepia filter over the top of that.. As per usual the exposure, contrast and levels were played with to bring the image to what I believed worked best.. / I liked this image as it seemed to “pop” and it looks almost as though the dandelion is lurching forward in an attempt to break free from its flowers. I think that this shot and Season’s End both really captured the moment that the dandelion begins to lose its flowers and disappear from existence.
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Exposure - for beginners/ intermediate photographers.
by Mark GermanI just answered a question in a certain group forum, and it occurs to me that it may be useful to others. Feel free to ask any questions….
I just answered a question in a certain group forum, and it occurs to me that it may be useful to others. Feel free to ask any questions. So here goes: General rule-of-thumb: expose to the right. What that means, is – use your histogram and get your exposure to the right half without hitting the far right edge. Anything clipped (blown, over-exposed) will be data lost for good. The same goes for black clipping (under-exposed). The reason exposing to the right is better then to the left, is that recovering data/detail from dark areas creates noise – whereas the reverse does not. A little rule that may help you with exposure: / Sunny 16 Basically what this catchy-named rule means, is this: / Given a bright and sunny day outdoors, correct exposure for any scene will be f/16, 1/100 SS, ISO100 (also known as ASA) Working up and down with this you can adjust to suit. For example – a slightly overcast day: / f/11, 1/100, ISO100 (1-stop wider aperture) / or / f/16, 1/50, ISO100 (1-stop slower SS) / or / f/16, 1/100, ISO200 (1-stop more sensitive film/sensor) If you have a specific requirement with SS (stop motion, blur, etc), adjust the other parameters to compensate. To stop your hand motion blur, use the reciprocal of your focal length. Example: 100mm needs at least 1/100th SS. Crop bodies need to be multiplied by the crop. (ask if confused) / If your subject is moving, double SS. If you are also moving, triple it. / Of course using a tripod (and you should whenever feasible) changes this. With photography, each numerical value doubles. / ISO: 100/200/400/800/1600/3200 / SS: 25/60/125/250/500/1000/2000/4000/8000 Aperture can be remembered by using this system: / Use two numbers (f/1 & f/1.4) and double them as you go. f/1, f/2,f/4,f/8,f/16,f/32 / f/1.4,f/2.8,f/5.6,f/11,f/22 Now put them together and you have your full range of full-stop apertures :) Some cameras will list 1/2 or even 1/3 stops. f/1, f/1.4,f/2,f/2.8,f/4,f/5.6,f/8,f/11,f/16,f/22,f32,f/44 Aperture effects Depth of Field (DoF), which is the distance between the closest area in acceptable focus, and the furthest. Choose your aperture to suit your subject/scene. Adjust the other two parameters accordingly. A larger aperture number means a tighter aperture – which means less light. If you ever come up to a situation that has a very high dynamic range (DR) and can’t wait for better light – bracket your shots. That is, expose +/- from the above settings. You can then either decide what you like best, or even combine exposures. (ask how). Of course – if you are a street/candid/journalistic/wildlife style photographer, then you may only get one chance. Which is more the reason to learn the above. There are various filters available to help shoot skies and landscapes – or any scene that has defined high dynamic range. Circular polarisers, graduated neutral density filters – ask. Using additional lighting such as flash adds another element to the equation, and other rules apply. The above is a basic guide to correct exposure for everyday and natural conditions. Hope this helps some people. Feel comfortable in asking anything, or contributing.
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Hosier Lane in Melbourne, Australia. A result of 9 images (3 HDR’s) done in Photomatix. Merged the HDR’s in photoshop using automate > Photomerge. Took the photos quick as it was around midnight in a dark alley… Sales 1 Greeting Card 1 Framed Print 2 Canvas Prints 1 Greeting Card 1 Mounted Print 1 Laminated Print 1 Poster This work has had over 6000 views :) Click here for my other images of laneways and graffiti Click here for my other images of Melbourne !
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Surprise the gerbera makes yet another appearance :)
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Although a common wildflower of Western Australia, this species (Cut-Leaf Banksia – Banksia praemorsa) is only to be found around Albany. Equipment: CANON 5D, SIGMA 105mm f2.8 MACRO Framing suggestion: / © aabz-imaging / ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
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this is part of my “Variance Collections 2009 -Pi” catalogue. / many other variations of colors are available. this is just a little idea of this one as most of them have such different moods / feelings / . / it was hard to choose which one to upload here. I was hesitating with one very warm yellows and browns. But I finally chose this one for its special night vision and ambiance. / I don’t want to annoy you by duplicating works in my folio, so I’ve just added the preview on the right side here. / which one do you prefer ? / If you’d like to see it full size or purchase a card or print, just leave a comment here and I will change the view / make it available. / . / / . /
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Featured / Photography 101 Featured / Mood & Ambience Copyright
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This one’s for Robin Nikon D700, 105mm macro lens FEATURED IN PHOTOGRAPHY 101 /
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Hi there! ☺ Yes…it´s me…..Andreas Stridsberg. Why am I opening a new account you ask? Well the answer is simple: Because i´m under contract with various publishers that demand they have “first dibs” on my work i can´t go around selling them left and right. I first have to wait for them to either accept or reject any of my new work. And because that´s usually a looooong and slooooow process i then use my other account to simply showcase my work. While on this account i can make those i know for sure my publishers have rejected available as prints to whomever may be interested. Does it make sense to you? :-) I´m sorry for possibly posting duplicates of something that i might already have posted at my original stridsberg-account But i need to keep them separeted due to above mentioned reasons. :-) Thanks for stopping by! And as always…keep an eye on my own website for my most recent work and my pointless blog: Sincerly Andreas Stridsberg www.mystic-pic.com P.S. I´m also sorry for repeating this message on my every single upload tonight…i just thought i´d be as clear as possible. Godness how i´m apologizing right now…i´m sorry about that as well. :-/
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Just thought I would introduce everyone to Finn, the newest member of our family. He’s an abyssinian that we got from a breeder in Kilsyth. After losing all our other pets in the bushfires it left a bit of a hole in our lives. This little fella is making things a lot easier :) Settings Canon 40D, 50mm prime 1/80th @ f1.4, ISO 200 As is…
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An image from the Astor Theatre Melbourne Meet Up modeled by the stunning Lisa Defazio of Landell Fashions / / / Art Folders… / / Entire Portfolio / Born From This Earth – Series / Hearts At War / Vehicular works / Architecture / Travel / B&W Photography / Transitional Industrial Utopian Series / Abstract / Models and Fashion Photography
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Revisiting On Depth of Field
by Larry GrayamDepth of field (DOF) refers to that part of a photograph that appears to be in focus. It exists within a plane perpendicular to the ax…
Depth of field (DOF) refers to that part of a photograph that appears to be in focus. It exists within a plane perpendicular to the axis of the cameras viewpoint. The photographer chooses which affect of depth of field to choose. Narrow DOF tends to separate the subject from an out of focus background, in this image notice how a line of sharpness moves through this photograph of a tray of sewing bobbins. / / While greater DOF incorporates the background as an essential element in the photo. Increasing the light allowes for a stopped down aperture and a greater depth of field. / / A photographer has three tools to manage the DOF, choice of lens, aperture and focal point. The focal length of a lens affects one element of the DOF available from that lens. Generally speaking the shorter the focal length of the lens, the greater the DOF. When set at the same aperture and focal point a longer lens will always have a shallower DOF then a wide angle lens will. A focus point 2 feet from the camera will have less DOF than a focus point of 10 or 100 feet. Aperture selection is the third tool. When a lens is stopped down to, let’s say f22 it will always have greater DOF then if shot wide open at f2.8. / An example of a depth of field chart illustrates the concepts of managing DOF. The cells give two distances the first is the closest distance to the camera that the subject will be in acceptable focus. The later number is the furthest distance from the camera that the subject will be in acceptable focus. / / Hyperfocal distance is a focus point that will give the greatest range of DOF keeping acceptable focus only to infinity but not beyond. / Example / 24mm lens aperture of f11, focused to 9’ gives a DOF of 4’4”/infinity / 200mm lens aperture of f11, focused to 550’ gives a depth of field of 282’6”/infinity / So as the chart points out if you were shooting with a 200mm lens at f11 and the main subject is 290’ from the camera focusing on infinity would put the prime subject out of focus. But focusing to 550’ moves your DOF forward so the subject and background will be sharply focused. / So have fun and happy shooting-Larry “Revisiting On Depth of Field” was featured in TUTORIALS 11/05/09
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I’ve been buying these beauties at the weekly Bloemfontein Farmers’ Market, decided they would last longer if I immortalised them like this ( : This is the last in a series of four. Canon 400D, f4 @ 1/200, ISO 100, EF100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
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Taken with a Canon 5D Mark II, 100 mm macro lens. / Featured in ‘Super Macro Photography’‘ / Featured in ‘That One Great Shot’ / Featured in Made By Nature / 1st in Floral and Faunal Macros challenge This photo and many more are in my Raindrop calendar. Click on the photo below to view it.
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We found this beautiful creature in one of the remotest jungles in the world while on an expedition for the BBC. The ancient volcano, Mt Bosavi is home to some of the rarest and most amazing wildlife I’ve ever seen.
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more of my lil one
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Another of my mom’s marvellous roses – her whole garden was just so beautiful after the rain that I couldn’t stop taking photographs, everything was so magically enhanced by the strings and strings of water drop beads. Camera Model Canon EOS 500D / Shooting Date/Time 2009/10/31 11:16:21 AM / Shooting Mode Manual Exposure / Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/125 / Av( Aperture Value ) 6.3 / ISO Speed 100 / Auto ISO Speed OFF / Lens EF100mm f/2.8 Macro USM / Focal Length 100.0 mm Processed using photoshop CS2 and Topaz DeNoise
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