Cs3
105 creative works found
-
Dodging and Burning
by Alison JohnstonFor some reason, people go a funny shade of green when one starts talking about Dodging and Burning …. nothing to fear at all. I’ve ju…
For some reason, people go a funny shade of green when one starts talking about Dodging and Burning …. nothing to fear at all. I’ve just realised that I haven’t got any little images to insert in this tutorial …. I’ll make them later. Dodging and Burning is not difficult at all, when you realise that 20 low opacity strokes are better than one huge Dodge or Burn stroke. D&B is used to create precise shadow/highlight and can certainly add enormous amounts of lift/punch to an image. Most people would duplicate the layer to do some D&B on, and this is fine until you are working on a 10/15/20mb file and everytime you duplicate the layer the image size doubles. Unless you have a huge amount of RAM, your computer will slow down and sometimes even freeze. Is there a solution …. of course there is, its photoshop. So you’ve been working on an image, and naturally taken snapshots along the way. Now you decide that you would like to do some D&B. Click on the new layer icon on the bottom of the layers palette. Go to Edit>Fill>50%gray>click ok and that’s it LOL, nah, only kidding. Change the blend mode of this layer to soft light. Go grab the Burn tool (example), select whether you want to burn the highlights, midtones or shadows from the top menu and I would suggest quite strongly that you use a very low opacity – around 10% to start out with. I usually use a very soft brush for this and set the size according to what I’m going to be doing. The sheer beauty of using the 50% gray layer set to soft light is that you can simply turn the layer on and off to view your progress – don’t like what you’ve done … trash it and start again. Use exactly the same principle for the Dodge tool. Yet another way to D&B. Click on the new layer icon on the bottom of the layers palette, change the blend mode to soft light (without filling it with 50% gray), select your brush tool and make sure the foreground colour is set to black. Lower your brush opacity in the top menu bar to round about 10% again and start brushing where you want to Burn (darken) the area. Do exactly the same thing, only with white as the foreground colour to do some Dodging (lighten). Yet another interesting take on the above is that you can D&B with colours. Try it … grab your f/ground colour as red (example), check the opacity is down and Dodge or Burn away with that colour. Perhaps even pick a dark red (example) from the image itself to use as the Burn colour. Have fun, and don’t be afraid to roll up your sleeves and get stuck in. The sheer joy of photoshop is all the fun you can have with it.
-
The call has been made. The gathering has began. The swords and shileds have been returned to their rightful owners. They await, They await for the word, the order. They await for the toll of the bell. The call has been issued and it is being answered all over the world. Those who never knew for sure are hearing the call, do not ignore it, do not run from it. He will find you and he will never give up. The call is has been made, The gathering is taking place, old brothers are reunited and soon, very soon, he will unleash them upon this evil that surronds us.
-
TIP: A very useful colour adjustment tip
by Alan RodmellI am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to s…
I am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to share this one with you. Regarding Hue/Saturation. When you overdo this on an adjustment layer in your photos your detail is lost and it looks really blocky. Sometimes you just can’t get the saturation adjustments you need. Here’s how its done – Thank you to Chris Orwig for this one. 1) Open you image and convert it to LAB colour using: Image – Mode – Lab Colour 2) Create a curves adjustment layer 3) In the Curves dialog box ALT-click the grid to get a more detailed display 4) Go to the a – channel 5) Pull the black slider on the bottom of the grid into the right just one grid line (in this example although you can play!) 6) Pull the white slider opposite into the left by the same one grid line 7) Switch to the b channel and repeat. 8) Check out your image. This method actually increases saturation in tones you couldn’t even see that you had. Its excellent for autumn leaves or rivers and waterfalls. 9) When your done exit Curves dialog and convert your image back to RGB (select to Flatten in the pop up prompt) 10) Your all done. This is by far the best tip I’ve discovered so far. I tried it out of interest on a shot from this afternoon and it brought out lovely greens in Autumn leaves and a lovely hazy blue on water and waterfalls. Try it – I think you will like it! :D
-
The Power of love, let me tell you how powerful it can be. It’s not the fact that the two wives are pissed off because of broken glass from the beer they were drinking. The one wife has the broom sweeping it up. Its not because the blonde dread head husband is so high he is sitting in his own piss at the table where they eat dinner. The Power of love is not the fact that the husband with the cigarette has a devilish smirk on his face, with no care in the world. The POWER OF LOVE is the fact that these women love these two men, who just happen to have a prostitute sitting in-between them telling her she is beautiful. Look very closely at this image, you will see her hand right between them on her lap, and a small part of her maroon blouse at the edge of the husbands back. THE POWER OF LOVE. And no, the words “LOVE” on the doorway was not added by me, its actually on the doorframe. / This image was taken by me in Yugoslavia a few weeks ago. I used Photomatix Pro 3 and Photoshop CS3 to create this image in HDR format. Thanks for any and all positive comments. Enjoy the image.
-
Grunge Text/Type
by Alison JohnstonSo lets make some grungy text. You may never need this, but it’s simple to do … so why not! The image below is the only image we ar…
So lets make some grungy text. You may never need this, but it’s simple to do … so why not! The image below is the only image we are going to be using today, but you will need the larger file, so clicky on THIS link. Copyright is mine – yada, yada. Open Photoshop and create a new file 800px X 600px, background set to white. Open the larger image (which you will have saved to your computer) and with your move tool selected and the shift key held down, drag the tree image over to your new file. Holding down the shift key will centre the image for you. Working on the trees layer Go to Image>Adjustments>Threshold and I want you to take the slider to the left until it reaches 80 (see image below). We’re aiming to get a lot of white in the image. Next we’re going to add the type. Select a foreground colour, I used Red. Grab your type tool and select Horizontal type – then go ahead and type something, I used RedBubble. (Arial Black > Regular>100pt>Sharp – for those who may be interested) Move your text to where you would like it to be, you can place it similar to where I placed, but it will need to be over some of the black. Once you’ve played around with this a couple times you’ll get a general idea of where the text should go. Before we go any further, we have to rasterize the text. You can either right click on the text layer and choose rasterize type or go to Layer>Rasterize>Type. Now the fun begins :-) click on the trees layer, the one you did the threshold adjustment on and select your magic wand tool, check that the contiguous box on the top menu bar is unchecked and select some of the black. Because you have the contiguous box unchecked, the magic wand tool will select all of the black areas. Now, hide the trees layer by clicking the little eye icon and click on the type layer, then press the delete key. Go to Select>deselect or press ctrl D on the keyboard. And there you have it, some grungey type text. Use your move tool to position the text wherever you want and you can drag the trees layer to the little garbage bin icon … cos you don’t need it anymore. I’ve cropped my final image. Larger file is HERE Enjoy playing, and if I haven’t made anything clear just ask me.
-
© 6point1 Photography 2008
-
© 6point1 Photography 2008 / My first collaboration attempt : / Thank you to Darren Sharp for providing the fire for this picture!!! / Darren also has some fine art check it out here> / Darren Sharp
-
A Tip for You - Smart Sharpening in Photoshop
by Alan RodmellI have just learned a really useful little tip for Sharpening images in Photoshop which I thought I should share with you all. Until n…
I have just learned a really useful little tip for Sharpening images in Photoshop which I thought I should share with you all. Until now when I sharpened an image in CS3 with Smart Sharpen I used to sharpen and then leave it at that. As you may well know over sharpening can produce exaggerated noise and produce “halo” effects on your edges which look plain nasty. Here’s a few useful tips to help you improve the quality of your sharpening. – Always sharpen to a NEW LAYER (Merge all to new layer using SHIFT+CTRL+ALT+E on PC’s) – I always convert this layer to a smart object to allow me to modify any applied filter effects. – Always change the blend mode on this layer to LUMINOSITY. This massively reduces the halo effects on your sharpened image. (Try over-sharpening an image and then changing the blend mode to luminosity just to see this in action) – Follow these guidelines for smart sharpening for the best results For STANDARD SHARPENING – Amount 100, Radius <=2 / For SOFT IMAGES – Amount 140, Radius <=1 / For PORTRAITS – Amount <=5 Try these guidelines out and see what you think.
-
Vector Illustration
-
180 Degrees of Gosfords Waterfront. Process / 1. I mounted my SLR on my tripod and tilted it to portrait. / 2. Set auto-bracket to 3 exp 2f/s apart. / 3. Shot 3 images, then turned the camera around roughly 1/3 of the image and shot another 3 images and repeated until I had enough. / 4. Uploaded the photos and created a file and put them in it. / 5. Opened Photomatix Pro and clicked Batch Processing, then I selected the file I had just created as the one to be processed. (Photomatix automatically merges the images together in groups of three, so as long as they’re all in correct order it will merge all the images automatically.) / 6.Once Photomatix had done its bit, I opened all the freshly processed HDRs up in Photoshop CS3. I then went to Photomerge adjusted the settings and clicked go. / 7. It churned away for a few mins and then once it was finished there was a nice fresh panorama. However there was still more stuff to do. / 8. The just created pano is still uncropped and in multiple layers, so I Flattened the image, and cropped to the desired size making sure the ppi was set to a high number (400). / 9. Then I adjusted the Levels, Curves and Color Balance. / 10. I then opened the panorama up in Lightroom. I adjusted the Clarity almost to max to give a crisp look, gave it a slight Vignetting and adjusted some of the Levels. / 11. I then opened it up in good ol’ CS3 again. To get rid of some noise in the sky I duplicated the image twice, so I now had 3 layers of the same image. I then selected the middle layer and applied a Gaussian Blur of about 10. Then I selected the Top Layer and used the Eraser Tool with opacity set to 20 and started to erase some of the noisy areas in the sky to reveal the softer Blurred image underneath. / 12. I resized the image as It was absolutely huge and saved it. / 13. The End… This was done on Mac OS X. This is my 4th ever attempt at a panorama. / Let me know what you think…
-
Photoshop CS3 (and CS2) Brushes
by bchrisdesignsI just wanted to share some really cool brush resources for those of you interested in adding some plugins to your Photoshop software. I…
I just wanted to share some really cool brush resources for those of you interested in adding some plugins to your Photoshop software. I have used some of them and they rock! All are freeware and some cite that you must give a link back to them in order to use them. The following is a comprehensive list of ALL of the website where I have downloaded brushes from. Any of my pieces that feature a brush from one of these sets will be linked back to this journal for proper crediting. Brush gurus: 50ml Brushes Seishido Pixel Chick Damned in Black Dubtastic Juuichi Aquired-taste Photoshopsupport.com’s Brush Page I hope you all find these as useful as I have! If you need help installing these, check out my Photoshop Tip #1: Where to get brushes? journal entry.
-
Illustrator CS3 / —-—-—-—-—- Ta-Da… it’s me~!! / This version is without text / For a version with text click here
-
I wonder who Ian Lloyd is, this is a rework of an old image
-
A different crop and perspective on a favorite image Original :
-
I couldn’t help playing with this shot in photoshop, i added some water colour textures, but i love the results and it really was a welcoming bench, with a great view.
-
Congratulations to Mel who rode this Horse competitively and came fourth out of hundreds of riders
-
A train car spotted in a siding at Queenscliff, now used for workers accommodation. / Processed using 3 bracketed photo’s loaded into Photomatix, then massaged in CS3. 30D 24-70L 2.8 @ f6.3 and 1/100,1/200 and 1/400, iso 400
RedBubble is a great place to find art, design, photos and writing from over 50,000 talented people.
You can buy their stuff
On stunning greeting cards, awesome t-shirts or beautiful prints to hang on your walls.
Risk Free Returns
It’s really simple. If you’re not happy with your purchase for any reason, we’ll fix it.
About RedBubble
Since February 2007 we’ve shipped over 96,500 items to more than 70 countries around the world.
Join In
Sign up for your free account, upload your work, join some groups and share your creative genius with the world.