Adjustment
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157 creative works found
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Through lifes daily struggles we are faced with many obstacles to overcome.We can figure out how to over come them on just give up and crawl in a shell.The stream flows on over the top or around its hindrances.It finds the way around any obstacle in its path.We need to be the stream an not give up,but overcome the many trials that we face….......image © Gary L. Suddath
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more medium format Holga goodness / untouched by an Adobe product
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TIP: A very useful colour adjustment tip
by Alan RodmellI am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to s…
I am currently working through my third CS3 tutorial and I picking up a ton of useful tips for my photographic workflow. I just HAD to share this one with you. Regarding Hue/Saturation. When you overdo this on an adjustment layer in your photos your detail is lost and it looks really blocky. Sometimes you just can’t get the saturation adjustments you need. Here’s how its done – Thank you to Chris Orwig for this one. 1) Open you image and convert it to LAB colour using: Image – Mode – Lab Colour 2) Create a curves adjustment layer 3) In the Curves dialog box ALT-click the grid to get a more detailed display 4) Go to the a – channel 5) Pull the black slider on the bottom of the grid into the right just one grid line (in this example although you can play!) 6) Pull the white slider opposite into the left by the same one grid line 7) Switch to the b channel and repeat. 8) Check out your image. This method actually increases saturation in tones you couldn’t even see that you had. Its excellent for autumn leaves or rivers and waterfalls. 9) When your done exit Curves dialog and convert your image back to RGB (select to Flatten in the pop up prompt) 10) Your all done. This is by far the best tip I’ve discovered so far. I tried it out of interest on a shot from this afternoon and it brought out lovely greens in Autumn leaves and a lovely hazy blue on water and waterfalls. Try it – I think you will like it! :D
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this was a beautiful clematis that i played with and adjusted
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An ‘adjusted’ version following the Living Christianity critique forum submission. / / © photogenique (dave peddie): using this image for any purpose and in any way, without prior permission, may lead to legal action.
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Working Smarter Using Adjustment Layers In Photoshop
by Alison JohnstonAdjustment layers are a great way to work in Photoshop, they give you the flexibility to go back and alter adjustments on the fly – makin…
Adjustment layers are a great way to work in Photoshop, they give you the flexibility to go back and alter adjustments on the fly – making sure that you don’t have to lose any of the work you have done by undoing steps to correct an error. Another positive about adjustment layers is that they add very little size to your file, which is a bonus if you don’t have 8 gigs of RAM at your disposal :-) I’m going to give you a kind of example here using a Hue Saturation adjustment layer to add colour back into an image. What you need to bear in mind is that it applies to all of the adjustments that are available under adjustment layers. Adjustment layers can also be useful when using blending modes on a single image without having to duplicate the image and add to the file size. Try this one yourself. Open an image, duplicate it of course :-) and close the original – now go to the little ying yang looking symbol at the bottom of the layers palette and click on it to bring up the menu – click on levels for now. When the dialogue box opens, click OK without making any adjustments, then pick a blend mode …. lets say multiply …. your image will now have used itself, to darken itself …. or you could say that you have used the image to darken the image without having to duplicate the background and then apply a blend mode. Take a look at your file size ….. You can also turn the adjustment layer on and off, reduce the opacity, add a mask to darken certain areas, use a gradient to edit the mask or perhaps a brush. There are several ways that you can do just about anything in Photoshop, and bringing back colour into an image is no exception. By default photoshop has the history set at 20 states of undo, so if you reach 21 states any previous work will not be available to go back and edit without losing all of the work you have done. You can change the amount of history states available to you by going to Edit>Preferences>Performance and at the top right hand side you will see History States | Cache Levels – just change the history states to a higher amount if you like. Using adjustment layers, rather than permanent adjustments, will give you much more flexibility in your editing capabilities. Getting into the habit of saving your image as a .psd file right from the outset and then remembering to ‘save’ along the way … press Ctrl + S or go to the top menu bar and press ‘save’, will make sure that you are never disappointed if PS freezes or your computer has a hissy fit and dies. Lets get back to the tut :-) I’m going to add some colour back into an image that I have used a Hue/Sat adjustment layer to desaturate. Why not just go to the top menu bar and use Image>Adjustment>Desaturate you might be asking – because it is a permanent adjustment – one that I may decide that I don’t want there in the future and doing this change with an adjustment layer gives me the option of turning it on and off using the little eye icon, going back in and adding some saturation back into the image etc., If I try to do that 25states later using the permanent adjustment I will lose all of my later work. There are also several ways to add colour back into an image. You can start with your B&W image, place a new layer above that, choose a colour and fill the layer, change the blend mode to colour, soft light etc., add a mask, invert the mask, and then start adding back in the colour – but what if you decide that you don’t like that colour ? You then have to choose another colour, lock the transparent pixels of the layer, then fill with the new colour. You can also create a new blank layer, choose a colour to paint with, change the blend mode of the brush from the top menu bar and paint away – but still, if you decide you don’t like the colour then you will have to go through the process for the first method. What if you could just move a slider to create a different colour ? Now wouldn’t that be a whole lot simpler ? Here is our start image, just click through for the larger image. The first adjustment layer we are going to use is a hue/sat and we are going to desaturate the image. What you’ll notice in the below image is that I forgot to take a screenshot of the desaturated image and had to go back and take one after I had made several adjustments. Its as simple as turning off the adjustment layers. Next you are going to use a hue/sat adjustment layer again, but this time you are going to check the colorize button when the dialogue box comes up. Then go and adjust the sliders till you get a colour that you like. This is probably the most time consuming part of this adjustment until you become familiar with where the colours lie, and using the saturation and lightness adjustments. I chose a blue colour that was similar to the original image, you can choose whatever colour you like. Obviously that isn’t quite what we want to happen here :-) Adjustment layers come with a mask – that’s the little white box on the right hand side of the adjustment box – click on the mask to make it active and then press Ctrl + i on your keyboard to invert the mask to black (hide all) white is reveal all. You could also go to Image>Adjustments>Invert – just make sure that the mask is active. Grab your paintbrush and start painting back in the pants. You should now have something similar to the image below. I haven’t painted back in all of the pants, I’m just showing you how to achieve the adjustments. Just say that you had taken this image in B&W originally, and I pop over to your place and notice what you’re doing and say ….. the pants on that scarecrow weren’t blue :-) The easy way to choose another colour is to double click on the adjustment box itself – not the layer mask – and the dialogue box will open and you can adjust the colour to something new. What I would normally do when re-colouring an image is duplicate the blue layer, turn off the visibility of the original blue layer and then make the adjustment to the copy. This way you will still have the choice of reverting to the blue copy if you decide you want that one instead. In fact, you could make as many different coloured trousers/pants adjustment layers as you wanted. When doing something like this it is wise to get into the habit of naming the adjustment layers. You can do this by double clicking on the text next to the mask and renaming this what you want. You can see in the image below that I have carried on with a few more adjustment layers and named them. I’ve also done 3 different shades of red for the jacket, shoes and pocket on the pants. I would then do a different red for the scarf. I’ve also done the hair and the flowers, both of these more need more refining to make them look realisitic but I would do the refinements on adjustment layers. I’ve highlighted the file size at the bottom of the image. You may also notice as you progress with your design, composite, colourising etc., that the adjustment layers can start to get out of hand. This is where Grouping layers together can come in very handy. Select which adjustment layer you would like grouped together i.e. in this particular image you might group together the clothing as I have done – although I accidently added the hair and shoes to the group and couldn’t be bothered going back and grabbing another screenshot – so just ignore those 2 layers :-) Click on an adjustment layer then hold down your Ctrl key to select the next one etc., If your layers are one above the other you can click on the top one, then shift click on the bottom one to select them. Next go to the little downward triangle near the top right hand side of your layers palette, and from the menu select the option ‘New Group From Layers’ Each of the layers you chose will now be in a folder which you can name, I used Clothing in the example below. All you have to do now is open that folder using the little arrow to the left of the folder to have access to the adjustment layers, but more importantly you can still edit each of those adjustment layers. And that’s it really. Remember to save often while you are working on a file, as I said at the beginning of this.
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The picture was taken using a Powershot G9 on manual setting. The lighting was done using 8 low energy Daylight bulbs in photographic reflectors shot against a black backdrop. Image was adjusted in painter 9 to give the extra contrast. She was a little self conscious and distracted at the beginning of the shoot. I don’t think the small crowd she brought with her helped really. It included her ex-lesbian girlfriend, her 6 year old daughter, and some guy. This shot was taken while she just relaxed and adjusted her skirt. In the end I got a good few shots that worked really well. This is one of the best. Please visit my website for painted artwork and information on how to become one of my models wwww.arts-fine.co.uk Art Gallery Online
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ThIs girl is FACING into the sun. The original photo, now altered, is a dramatic cloudscape that I took in Folsom, California, taken in Northern California. Jesus loves the little children. / All the children of the world. / Red or yellow, black or white, / They are precious in His sight, / Jesus loves the little children of the world… Canon Digital Rebel Xsi, 12.2 mp / / Cloudscape with Corel edits of various kinds.
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An old infrared image – just tried some new processing things I’ve picked up over the last year or so. Location: Little Pelican, Lake Macquarie, NSW.
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Here’s the Kiama Lighthouse. / The shot is taken from the Blowhole just below it. All the usual levels & curves adjustments, & finished with a smidgen of Clarity in Topaz Adjust.
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On the NSW South Coast is a gorgeous little village called Central Tilba. / Tilba is a heritage listed village full of quaint little galleries & craft shops. / The Grocery Store (which sells divine home-made fudge) has a bicycle hanging above the front door. I thought this an odd place to hang such a thing, but I also found it something that I couldn’t resist…...
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Model : NIKON D80 / ExposureTime : 1/25Sec / FNumber : F2.8 / ExposureProgram : Aperture Priority / ISOSpeedRatings : 100 / DateTimeOriginal : 2009:02:10 14:04:21 / ExposureBiasValue : EV0.0 / MaxApertureValue : F2.8 / MeteringMode : Division / FocalLength : 200.00(mm) / ExposureMode : Auto / WhiteBalance : Auto / Lens : AF-S VRZoom-Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 IF-ED
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Used Topaz Adjust to get it even more shiny than it was :-)
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FRACTAL SAFETY NET / Best viewed large. / / / / FRACTAL SAFETY NET was FEATURED on / RED BUBBLE’S HOMEPAGE / on November 2, 2009. / / Fractal “Safety Net” was created out of Chaos with the Quaternion Julia Set, with use of Incendia software, based on five conditions. / / / With special effects rendered in skylight, I then proceeded to apply a little ambience, then I closed the program out and re-opened the image a second time in Photoshop. / / Lighting, luminosity, and colors were now added, along with embossing. After a few more adjustments with brightness and contrast, Fractal “Safety Net” was now complete. I do hope you like it!! / / /
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Selections, Adjustment Layers and Effects
by Alison JohnstonThis isn’t going to be a start to finish project, but rather a couple of different ways you could be using selections and adjustment laye…
This isn’t going to be a start to finish project, but rather a couple of different ways you could be using selections and adjustment layers that you may not have thought of. You can borrow my image below to practise on if you like, copyright is mine etc., Lets look at doing dodging and burning with some very loose selections and a bit of mask blurring. Open the image and grab the Lasso tool. You can press L on the keyboard or access it from the side tool bar. Select the road area – see image below – when you get to the straight parts of the image, hold down the shift key to so the Lasso Tool draws a straight line. Hold down the Alt key on the keyboard, then go to the bottom of the layers palette and click on the ying yang symbol (new fill or adjustment layer) and click on Curves. A small dialogue will appear (you can name it burn if you like), change the blend mode to Luminosity and click OK – the Curves dialogue box will then appear. Try to keep part of the road in view, then you can pull the line down to where mine is if you want. See image below. Click OK to accept the change. You can fix up the mask at this stage if it needs a little adjusting. Grab a white brush and paint :) There is an obvious transition line, so it needs fixing. Click on the layer mask to make it active, and then go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur I punched in 20 pixels for this image – that will vary of course depending on what size image you are working on. Click OK to accept your blur settings and then you can switch the adjustment layer on and off to see what you have done. If you don’t like it, click on the curves adjustment thumbnail (not the mask) and the Curves adjustment dialogue will appear and you can change the settings to suit. Duplicate the adjustment layer and click on the eyeball of the ‘Burn’ layer to hide it. Double click on the adjustment layers thumbnail and when the Curves Dialogue box reappears hold down the Alt key of the keyboard and you will notice that the cancel button changes to ‘reset’, click on that to reset the line. Reference the image below to see where I have moved the line to and voila – some instant dodging. You would normall do that on 2 different parts of the image and on 2 curves adjustment layers. After you have finished the burn process, grab your Lasso (or any selection tool) and select another area and go through the process again. So this gets the mind moving to think …. how else can we use this to do interesting things to our images. What about some colour ? Lets have a look at doing something like that :) With the same image open, go to View in the top toolbar and make sure that “snap’ is ticked, and then in the view menu go to ‘New Guide’ and in the small dialogue box check either Vertical or Horizontal and in the ‘Position’ box type in 50% – a guide will appear. Do the same again, only make sure that if you checked horizontal the first time, that you check vertical this time. You should end up with something like the image below. Grab the Rectangular Marquee tool and draw around one of the 4 sections in the image. The selection should ‘snap’ to the guides. see image below Hold down the Alt key and click on the ying yang symbol at the bottom of the layers palette and choose Solid Colour from the fly out menu. Change the blend mode in the ‘New Layer’ dialogue to soft light and click OK. Now go ahead and choose a colour in the Solid Colour box …. I chose Red. Click OK to accept the colour. Remember that you can change this at any time simply by double clicking on the adjustment layer thumbnail – change the blend mode of the layer if you like, or take the opacity of the layer down. Grab the rectangular marquee tool again and select a different section of the image and run through the whole process again until you have all 4 sections with a different colour. see image below To clear the guides go to View>Clear Guides Whether you do any blurring on those layer masks is entirely up to you. I didn’t on the image above. So can we do something with type in a similar way …. course we can :) Grab the Type Tool from the sidebar, or press T on the keyboard, and type something – I chose ‘A Road’ LOL Hold the Ctrl key on the keyboard and click on the type layer thumbnail, that will load the transparency of the type – grab the type layer and drag it to the little garbage bin at the bottom of the layers, or make sure the layer is highlighted and then click on the little garbage bin at the bottom of the layers palette and then click yes in the dialogue press that comes up or hit enter on the keyboard. You should be able to guess what is going to happen from here :) Hold down the Alt key and click on the ying yang symbol at the bottom of the layers palette and choose solid colour from the fly out menu, change the blend mode to soft layer in the new layer dialogue box that appears and then choose a colour. You might end up with something like the image below. What you’ll notice, is that you can see the road texture through the type. You could do a similar thing with a shape layer. Draw out the shape, select the transparency and then delete the shape layer. Continue on with the usual procedure. You can also use this to produce a coloured vignette around the image. Select the Elliptical marquee tool and draw out an oval kind of shape. To position the oval in between drawing it out, hold down the spacebar and move the mouse to drag it where you want. Release the spacebar to continue enlarging it. Go to Select>Modify>Feather and 50 pixels for this particular image. Go to Select>Inverse or Shift + Ctrl + i and then follow the usual procedure – hold down the Alt key and select whatever adjustment you want from the adjustmet layers fly out menu. I chose solid colour and changed the blend mode to Overlay and picked a dark brown colour. I also chose to give it some more blurring, using Gaussian Blur with a radius of 50 pixels. See image below. You can use any of the adjustments on your images, so don’t just stick to the ones I’ve shown you here. I chose a Pattern Fill layer with Green with Fibres at 300% on the image below and changed the blend mode to Darken. Have fun !
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Taken today April 29/09 of this pretty bench close to the accountants where my friend and I went to do our taxes – I thought htis bench was really pretty / we waited 5 and a half hours before we got to see him and left just before 7 p,m,!!!!! mind you it was worth it, lol / Taken with the Fuji then slightly adjusted in Picasa / Focal 6.3mm / exposure 1/450 / aperture f/8.0 / ISO 100
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Captured with my Canon EOS 5D Camera and Canon EF 17-40mm Wide Angle Lens….a 3-exposure image.. -2, 0, +1, handheld, processed in Photomatrix, tone mapped, and also a used a touch of Topaz Adjust for added spice! / Convict Lake located near Mammoth Lakes, California in the winter time…the lake is frozen over
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Canon PowerShot A520 Topaz adjust filter used to get this effect Featured in The Woman Photographer … / Mood & Ambience – Stric…
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my son….. cross processed & textured in PS / Canon 1000D Featured – Canon DLSR – June 2009 Featured – The Woman Photographer – June 2009
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Sometimes the most vibrant skies appear when you least expect them. This range of dramatic sunset hues suddenly appeared on a heavily clouded horizon in south-east Melbourne just before the Easter break in 2008. As luck would have it, I had my 70-300mm lens on my camera, so I had to make an instant decision. I knew it would only take me three or four minutes to get in my car and drive to the top of a hill for a clear shot of the colours. But I knew that in that short span of time, the brilliant colours could have disappeared completely. So I decided instead to use the lens to its fullest reach and try and eliminate as much suburban clutter as possible. I shot nineteen frames very quickly, using different objects as silhouettes. This, the third image in the sequence, had the most dramatic colours and things dissolved quickly to grey after that. The skyshow lasted less than five minutes …. had I driven, I would have missed capturing the colours! I do not crop, enhance or post-edit my images in any way. Shot with a Pentax K100D, using a Sigma 70-300mm lens. F5.6, 1/60 sec, ISO 800, focal length 300mm. 76-4193
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Fine art black and white print – available matted or framed.
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The killer whale or orca (Orcinus orca), or less commonly, blackfish, is the largest species of the dolphin family. It is found in all the world’s oceans, from the frigid Arctic and Antarctic regions to warm, tropical seas. / Although the killer whale is not considered to be an internationally endangered species, some local populations are considered threatened or endangered due to depletion of prey species, habitat loss, pollution by PCBs, captures for marine mammal parks, and conflicts with fisheries. In late 2007, the killer whales known as the “southern resident killer whales,” were placed on the U.S. Endangered Species list / Info here Topaz simplify
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