Creating super-wide panoramas

jiashu xu
Author: jiashu xu
Word Count: 744
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Creating super-wide panoramas

Creating super-wide panoramas
The digital technology offers easier methods to create super-wide panoramic photos. I could essentially create a 180-degree view scene using digital applications such as Photoshop CS3. Through much experimentation, I have created some perfect super-wide panoramas, merged by more than 10 frames.

In my opinion, a separate view points need to be implemented to judge such an image. Due to its unusual width and height, one is difficult to fully appreciate the work with a small sample. If one views a proper sized print of super-wide panorama (a usual size of such image will be around 2-3metres long), the viewer can get a dramatic impression as if he/she is facing a 180 degree real landscape. You will be able to see all the details and the different parts of the scene from on side to the other.

Another advantage of super-wide panoramas is the super large size files around 200MB. This means the possible creation of large professional quality prints. It is impossible to achieve such a file size or high definition of the print from cropping a single frame image taken by a super-wide angle lens.

Basic Equipment
1. A good sturdy tripod with separate motion controls to keep each frame in the same horizontal level. (Ball heads may be difficult to control, but I use a ball head and through some practice I could manage it well.)
2. Digital SLR. 28mm-300mm lens.
3. Image-editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop CS2-3; Element 5; or RealVIZ Stitcher Unlimited 5.6 (this one can create 360 degrees images.

Optimal Settings
1. Manually set shutter speed and aperture.
2. Set the white balance on manual to suit the scene.
3. Set the ISO to the lowest setting.
4. Use manual focusing.

Shooting sequences images
1. I normally set up camera to aperture priority and the best metering to suit the location. (Set the aperture between f8 to f22). Shoot three or four test frames: the left end and right end and two frames in the middle area instead of shoot all the sequence to same time.

2. Look at each frame and exposure data. Set the shutter speed to the average reading in the test shoots. Pay more attention to the highlight area details. I always set up -0.3 to -1.0 underexposure. Make sure to capture the details in the highlight areas.

3. Set up my position and place the tripod on a level spot. Look through the viewfinder and using the horizon or other lines for your reference swing the camera through left to right while looking at the horizon to make sure the alignment is correct.

4. Shoot the first frame then pan the camera to shoot the next images, overlapping the previous image by at least 20-30%. Once completed, check each image on the review screen.
5. Take a second row of frames at a slightly different shutter speed to break the images.

Merging Images
1. Start up Adobe Bridge to view the all RAW files and label each sequence of images with same colour for easy reference.

2. Open each RAW image in the set and adjust their colour temperature, so that all images in the same set have same colour temperature. I feel it is easier to adjust the colour balance in Bridge than in Photoshop, as you can set the actual number of colour temperature instead of check colour in Photoshop.

Save images in TIFE format and label them in another colour. This group of the images will be used for merging in Photoshop and all the RAW files will be kept intact.

3. Start up Photoshop CS > File > Automate> Photomerge. This will open the file selection window.
If the numbers of the image in the sequence are less then 4, you could select all the images and click open Photomerge now and go into automatic mode and open the Photomerge editor screen to view the panorama.
4. As super-wide panoramas may be stitched by more frames, I usually select only first 2 images to merge first, then save the first temporarily merged image as “merged-1”. Then select “merged_1” and third image from the sequence to merge a second temporarily file, and name it merged-2 and so on until all the frames is merged. By using this method there will be less trouble and speed up the workflow.

  • Winslow357

    Winslow357

    An awesome and detailed tutorial! Thanks for sharing!!!!

  • jiashu xu replied

    Thanks Charles!

  • Crespuscular

    Crespuscular

    Cheers!
    You may interested in this.

    It’s an old work where I was experimenting with pushing photo stitching to extremes. This is dozens of shots taken in a semi-spherical pattern.

    I’d also like to mention that Autopano Pro is much much better at handling stitching than Photoshop, and now that AP can also stitch bracketted idenitical shots at different exposures) into an HDRi file, you can get better dynamics than with RAW.

    Although bear in mind that when you bracket for true HDR and photostitch large images your process time could easily fall into many hours (unless you are willing to downscale the image, which defeats teh purpose of the large photo stitch so some degree).

    Oh, and also, it’s good practise to take a ‘slate’ picture at the end of a series of shots for stitching. I usually just stick my hand in front of the lens and snap that… makes it easier to identift the end of a series without having to make notes (which can get lost).

    :-)

  • jiashu xu replied

    Thanks for your comments Crespuscular and your tips on panorama. Your image of ‘Careful with that Fly Agaric’ is great. I have not used Autopano yet, but I tried to use Stitcher Express 2, Stitcher Pro and Stitcher Unlimited. I will experiment Autopano. Your idea of taking a ‘slate’ picture at the end of a series of shots for stitching is great. I will use this method for my next trip. I are planning a trip with my friends from Adelaide through Quorn, Flinders Ranges, Lyndhurst, Montecollina Bore, Innaminka, White Cliffs and back to Adelaide.

  • Al Neaimi

    Al Neaimi

    Great work Jiashu , I did this one of cape town , I was on holiday there had to take this image along one side of the beach , this is my first large panorama , whaat i like here is you can still see each frame , like the sky would be darker in one shot than the other , I left that in , with all this Info you give I sure would like to have a go again , Thank you again for the Info.

  • jiashu xu replied

    Thanks for your comments Al. You image of the Cape Town is great. Actually I think that the way of seeing each frame is a good idea. Because when you do any cropping the image will become very narrow. I think that seeing each frames makes the image more interesting and more artistically. Regarding the density of the sky of each shot, maybe you can use menu exposure to solve this problem.

  • Al Neaimi

    Al Neaimi

    you are welcome , glad you like it , I do like the sky as it is , again it adds somthing to the work i feel.

  • Sharon Mau

    Sharon Mau

    Mahalo for your wonderful informative tutorial, thank you so much!

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