Surfing in a barrel is an experience that can’t ever be completely described. It is quiet, adrenaline pumping, and yet unable to be compared to anything else in life.
This photograph is my impression of surfing inside a barrell, and the emotions experienced while doing so.
I have this photo enlarged in my room to remind me of the adrenaline rush I felt from my first barrell. It keeps me stoked when I surf, and even if you don’t surf, you can still feel the emotion the photo creates when you get inside it.