sabosha

This was my fist trip to Pamir and it was wonderful.

Below is sort of overview of what I was able to observe.

The people there are very friendly and hospitable. They are also really simple and in far villages not really educated. So the knowledge that “There is Afghanistan” and showing in direction across the river is most popular there :) On the question – how old is your village (Langar) – “I don’t know, but when I was born, was small it is already been here” or why this place is “holy”? – “It was holy before and people gave honor, so we also respect to this place” :) So if you really want to know something about place that you are going to, it is better to Google and read about it before. The most funny thing was when we were told about Bibi-Fatima hot spring, but I wouldn’t tell you this, it is better if you’d sometime hear it yourself.

Community aspect: after talking with people who are working in this region and do community projects the feedback about community is that the self-organization is on high level and once the duties are assigned among members no reminders are needed for the people to implement them (to the contrast of the people we met in our project districts of Varzob and Yavan).

The micro-credit projects run very effectively. Return of loans is 100%.

The water sources there are abundant: mineral water sources, hot springs, and simple clean water springs and streams. The lasts are available in every village, but no piped systems (I’ve visited villages in Ishkashim district: Ymchun, Yamg, Vrang, Langar). And of course, still women and girls are taking care about water carrying to their houses, even when men have nothing to do during non field work seasons.

Construction material: The good stones (of flat form) are available everywhere, so putted one on another even without glue (cement or dust) creates stable construction. This material is used since time of Silk road functioning, which is proven by saved fortresses on its way. And what is interesting: the parts connected with dust (like with cement) are saved worse rather then not connected.

Employment: The main occupation of people (basically men) in villages is teachers in schools or drivers and per one for each village seller in shop :) As I can conclude during field seasons all are involved in field works (cultivating, yielding), the rest time they just stay on the main street and talk to each other about big politics :) And another type of activity is keeping guest houses and providing guiding to local sightseeing. But this source of income is good only during summer time. The standard cost for 1 night is $10/person without food… but they would offer you food anyway due to the tradition of meeting guests :-)

Children’s activity: all are attending school, starting 2nd year they study English, so they all are relatively good in conversational English (even better then with Russian). And during non-school hours they help with livestock and wood collection.

Students: Students from non-Khorog area are mostly going to Dushanbe as no dormitory available in Khorog, and this is main obstacle for applicants if they don’t have relatives in Khorog to live with. The scientific activity is very “modern” among students so many are going abroad to Moscow or States, or Canada for continuing their study and getting higher degrees. Some are coming back and continue working at the University.

Private/Public sector enterprises: Public enterprises are still often on Pamir, and this creates problems with development of the organizations: like there are good opportunities for fruits and milk processing, but dues to “old” system of management these opportunities are not used and additional income is lost. While private sector develops rapidly: transport inside city, shops, cafes, handicraft workshops, etc.

Nature: I didn’t have an interest in the famous “chemical” issue of Pamir, and looked on mountains just as on “beauty” :-) Besides the Botanical garden of Khorog is unique. They were able to collect many of various sorts of plants, and keep on taking care about them, while not planting anything new. The most attractive is collection of “eatable” part: apples, pears, berries (like barberry, hedge roses, and many others the names of which I don’t know).

Health aspect: Due to high altitude (Khorog – 2.1-2.5km, Langar Petroglifs – about 3.5km) the blood pressure is getting higher so it is recommended to drink lot of water (and once a day in morning little salt and 0.5l of water) otherwise the headache is secured. Also it is really hard to go up with little of oxygen in air, so don’t behave arrogant and don’t try to make up 7km up to Bibi-Fatima hot spring without car :-). The good thing if you have holidays there – as there was no electricity in villages we went to sleep at 7-8pm and sleep till 6am… seems like too much, but that is true, may be it is also because of lower level of oxygen.

Weather: The weather was much better then in Dushanbe, when we left (mid of Nov) – sunny and warm, and only the last day, Saturday – everything was covered with sudden snow around Khorog, the rest part of the way was again with only little rain till Kalai-khumb.

Road: condition of road is relatively good (much better then to the north from Dushanbe), and it is continued to be repaired/built, so there was no dangerous parts, the only problem is that it is really long – about 20 hours (also depend on number of stops and wishes to eat – very popular for local people traveling, and driver). But still don’t try to save money on the car and choose good driver and some kind of jeep as the road is still mountainous.

Hope you would have a chance to walk on the roof of the world in Russian Pamir sounds like walk through the the world :-)