Travelogue: Upper Yarra Valley

ALL’S WELL IN WARBURTON

Brett visits the Upper Yarra Valley in search of the concept of
relaxed indulgence and discovers that yes, real men do cry.

In a world where the pace of living grows exponentially it is more important than ever to take quality time out. Normally I would do that by taking off for a weekend with the boys – fishing or golf – but it was pointed out to me that not everyone is so suave and sophisticated. I was asked instead to consider the concept of relaxed indulgence, something that would return me to the rat race feeling refreshed and reinvented. Remaining predominantly a country boy I had to look it up but I eventually identified a few key elements. Six, actually.

1) Laidback Environment.
The destination needs to be far enough from the hustle and bustle to inspire a laidback sense of pace but close enough so as not to waste precious indulgence time. I chose Warburton. A quiet, attractive and very charming old goldmining town, Warburton is one of our states’ true gems and still surprisingly undiscovered when compared with the likes of Daylesford. Only an hour from most areas of Melbourne, Warburton is the focus of the Upper Yarra Valley, a vast collection of native rainforests and mountain ranges which form an ideal backdrop for a weekend of indulgence.

My first concession to this new concept was to take Friday afternoon off. The accommodation I chose recommended a check in time of 3:00pm so what can I say, I made the sacrifice.

2) Opulence.
Epara Luxury Resort is something of an enigma. In a region dominated by cottage style Bed & Breakfast accommodation, focusing on quaint and homely and hidden, Epara bucks the trend with a modern opulence that seems on first glance more suited to Sydney bay side living. Rather than looking out of place however, owner and architect Demir Mersini has cleverly designed a building which curves itself into the landscape, taking full advantage of the mountain slopes and multilevel views.

The house itself is immediately impressive, with four levels of interesting, angled architecture in tune with the distant ridgelines beyond and a veritable wealth of glass. The grounds are open and extensive yet surrounded on all sides by towering trees and bushland which provide a real sense of privacy and seclusion.

At the foot of the drive Demir gestured me directly in to the double garage, smoothly conveying ownership on me and positively reinforcing my intent for the weekend – that it’s all about me!

We began with a guided tour. With everything that opens and shuts, Epara requires a minute or two of instruction. How to operate the large screen plasma TV and entertainment system, the coffee machine, the sauna, the hot tub, the two spa baths, the gym equipment, the water temperature controls and climate control system, etc. In every way you can imagine Epara has been designed for ease of use and convenience, making guest comfort the ultimate priority.

If you’re anything like me however, paying attention will have to wait until you’ve stopped ogling the surroundings. “Wow.” Is the very first thing I said and I went on to utter that little pearl of eloquence at almost every turn. In general I dislike modern décor but Epara is different. The pleasing use of quality timbers, sensitive planning and rich, earth based colour schemes give the place an unexpected warmth whilst windows large enough to be termed glass walls have the effect of bringing the natural environment inside. The furniture and décor further enhance this appeal, combining art, fashion and comfort on each of the four levels, turning every room into an individual show piece that invites use.

The ground floor contains living, lounge and dining areas that made me feel as though I had just fallen into the pages of Home Beautiful and an amazing semi-commercial timber kitchen with every appliance imaginable.

Two impeccable double bedrooms form the sleeping arrangements on the second floor, each with access to a paved, patio style balcony with a barbecue and outdoor setting for six. The spa bathroom on this level has a unique internal window which looks out over the same view. Towards the back, glass doors open out onto a walled play area for kids featuring a complete jungle gym.

The top floor was mine though, no contest. An enormous master bedroom suite with an abundance of wardrobe space, a spa bath built into the picture windows with views of Mount Donna Buang and one special feature that simply blew me away – the shower. In a room of its own and exposed to the outside world, the shower has been designed for two with large roses on either side of a glass wall which offers spectacular views down the valley.

Downstairs from the ground floor I was introduced to the gymnasium, complete with gym equipment, massage table and sauna. Outside from this point were various levels of timber decking leading down to the hot tub and grounds beyond, as well as an office with internet facilities and even a private beach with freshly raked sand!

Undoubtedly opulent, Epara nevertheless manages to capture a homely atmosphere. In large part this can be attributed to an intricate attention to detail I have rarely witnessed before. If you need something, you’ll probably find it at your finger tips.

Discovering a complimentary bottle of Chandon in the fridge I happily discarded any thoughts of responsibility and began my research on the concept of indulgence in earnest. Hmmm, hot tub first I think!

3) Reasonable Exercise
The Upper Yarra Valley is a paradise for hikers and cyclists. The Warburton to Lilydale Rail Trail is one option, meandering through beautiful landscapes along the disused railway built in 1901. If you haven’t done it before I highly recommend it.

I had something a little closer to nature in mind though so I headed for the Warburton Water Wheel and Visitor Centre for some information. Manned by locals with an obvious enthusiasm for their unique part of the world there is no better place to seek advice and believe me, you’ll need it. With literally hundreds of walking tracks available ranging from a few hundred metres to over 80 kilometres it is difficult to know where to begin. Remembering my goal I left with maps for three rather simple walks and threw in a couple of scenic drives for good measure.

Walk One: The Ada Tree Walk is located about 20 kilometres south east of Yarra Junction. The objective of this walk is the Ada Tree, a gigantic Mountain Ash considered to be one of Victoria’s largest living things. It towers over the surrounding rainforest in the headwaters of the Little Ada River and is estimated to be well over 300 years old. Standing 76 metres tall with a circumference of 15 metres it’s an impressive sight as it is but keep in mind that before an altercation with lighting this proud giant once topped over 120 metres.

From the car park the Ada tree can be reached by walking 1.6 kilometres along the delightful Island Creek path which winds its way through cool temperate rainforest featuring ancient Myrtle Beech, Sassafras and Tree Fern. The bird and animal life in this area is plentiful so keep your eyes open, be quiet and take your time. In so doing you may be as fortunate as I was to come across a Superb Lyrebird standing right in the middle of the track!

Walk Two: The Warburton Riverside Walk constitutes a leisurely 5 kilometre return circuit along the river as it flows through Warburton. Without doubt Warburton sets the benchmark when it comes to caring for and maintaining it’s riverside environment, providing a stunning example of how man and nature can co-exist harmoniously. Picnic facilities and park benches dot the river bank, quaint old bridges cross it, ducks and geese call it home and people both swim and fish in it’s waters, all within shouting distance of the town’s shops and superb eateries. And when you realise this is all largely due to the efforts of old Ted Chisholm and a volunteer “River Crew” of older locals, it makes the walk all the more pleasant.

The final walk comes later because it is now midday and I have more important things to do.

4) Pampering
I entered ‘Warburton Wellbeing’ harbouring a certain trepidation. Okay, as a bloke I must reveal that the closest I have come to a relaxation massage is a rub down after a Horsham V Ararat football match. So as I sat on the wicker lounge, surrounded by an incomprehensible exhibition of treatments, tonics and feel good products, I initially felt somewhat out of place. But the feeling didn’t last. There is an ubiquitous tranquillity about Warburton Wellbeing that is inescapable. Soothing music, mysterious yet calming aromas and a pervasive sense of peace all worked their magic on me.

My therapist was Donna Fowler, who made me feel even more at ease as we chatted about the ensuing massage. At Warburton Wellbeing they consider wellbeing to be more than simply the eradication of illness or a simple combination of mental and physical fitness. They focus on the belief that whilst our capacity for wellbeing is intrinsic to the human condition, the art and skill of remaining connected to the source of our own vitality is something most people have lost touch with. Okay, why is everyone looking at me? Actually I find the notion strangely compelling.

We decided I should try the Hot Rock Massage and I was lead to a private room where I was instructed to remove all clothing and cover myself with a rather thin Sarong. Was that all clothing? Yes, the particular massage chosen for me includes the gluteus muscles and the hot rocks are hindered by underwear. Perhaps I should have read the fine print! Of course, had I booked normally over the phone all would have been explained in advance.

Well I’m not shy, much, so while Donna waited outside I acquiesced, arranging myself face down on the table and spread the Sarong across my back with an unfamiliar thought. “Does my bum look big in this?”

It was only a minute before Donna returned but any thoughts of vulnerability had passed and I was actually drifting towards sleep. I don’t know if it is the same with all therapists but as Donna moved around the room preparing her oils and boiling the rocks I sensed a kind of slow dance, a defined purpose in her actions that was reassuring.

The massage, firstly by hand, was amazing, hitting all the right spots and working my tired and knotted muscles into blissful submission. Then came the hot rocks. This is a sensation that has to be experienced to be appreciated. As the smooth rocks slide up and down your oiled body the heat allows the massage to penetrate to a deeper level and in those moments your entire awareness is focused on the sublime feeling and nothing else. I gave myself up to the palpation, letting Donna work her magic while I drifted in another realm. The full body attention lasted an hour with a myriad tiny delights but I swear, you haven’t lived until you’ve had warm, oiled pebbles placed between all your toes!

When the massage was concluded it took me several minutes to return to the here and now and although I dressed reluctantly, I felt extraordinarily renewed. I left with a wonderful lightness in my step and a promise to return – regularly.

Before leaving, I recommend you take a moment to explore the retail side of Warburton Wellbeing. Donna manufactures her own comprehensive range of natural oils, balms and wellbeing potions under the name “Warbortanicals”. I guarantee you will find something to tempt you.

Far too relaxed to contemplate any further exercise for the day I floated across the road to Crundish Café for a late lunch. I sat for an hour or more on the sunny rear decking enjoying a tasty Italian Focaccia, a good strong Latte and enchanting views of the Yarra River.

Getting a good grasp on the concept of indulgence now, I spent the evening relaxing at Epara, reading my book in the hot tub, and went to bed as the full moon rose to fill my bedroom with a silvery glow.

5) New Experiences
Balloon Sunrise flights begin at Balgownie Estate Winery north of Yarra Glen where excited passengers meet at 5:00am for the debriefing. Our pilot for the day, Peter Gill, gave welcome and reassuring instruction before ushering us into waiting vehicles. In thick fog we set off, searching for a likely launch site. A short drive, a good deal of radio chatter and the release of a weather balloon determined the location and we all got out to assist with preparing the balloon for flight. With the basket on its side and the gas jets primed, Peter began to fill the balloon with controlled bursts of hot air and when it was perhaps half inflated I was offered a unique experience. Walking inside the balloon, very cautiously, I went to the “top”, turned and took a few photos back towards the basket while Peter fired the burners at me. It was a truly surreal moment I will never forget.

Before long the enormous balloon was perpendicular, fully inflated and ready for flight. Passengers were then instructed to board each of the baskets’ four compartments according to a weight distribution plan while staff held it in place. I’m not sure what I expected but the smoothness of the launch surprised me. I had to watch the ground slowly receding to appreciate that we were actually moving. In fact it might best be described as the absence of sensation as I had no perception of force or gravity working on me at all. We simply ascended, floating through the fog layer into a boundless pre-dawn sky.

Reaching an altitude of 2000 feet we drifted peacefully to the south, each of us lost to the experience, too busy watching the land and its oceans of fog pass below us to speak. With the silence punctuated only by the occasional burst from the gas jets we gazed in awe as the sun rose over the Upper Yarra Ranges to greet us. And then we found voice, our introspection becoming a desire to share this wonder with others.

I was curious to know why there was no turbulence and Peter explained that unlike traditional aircraft which fight against air currents, balloons go wherever the prevailing winds dictate, ensuring a completely smooth ride. Of course this begs the question: How do you determine where you are going? The short answer is, you don’t.

I tried not to think about that and concentrated on enjoying an experience which has no comparison in my mind. An amazing hour later, despite assertions of no control, Peter guided us in to a perfect landing where the pick up crew were waiting. All hands were enlisted to repack the balloon and the tour concluded back at Balgownie Estate where passengers shared a delicious breakfast and their wondrous impressions of the flight.

6) Spiritualism
I spent the remainder of the morning utilising the facilities at Epara and at midday I bid sad farewell before a leisurely drive to Upper Yarra Reservoir where I had a picnic lunch with the kangaroos. Note to self: Upper Yarra Reservoir Park is the most picturesque camp site I have ever seen – add to list of future camping holidays. Then it was time for my final walk and the journey home.

Walk Three: The Rainforest Gallery (Mount Donna Buang Road) shows you through an old growth forest of venerable Mountain Ash and Beech Myrtle. It is a damp and diverse environment showcasing various plants, mosses and ferns around Cement Creek and you can view it all from an impressive observation platform which takes you 15 meters up into the forest canopy. What sets this walk apart however is the inherent spiritualism of the place. As I descended below the canopy onto the 350 metres of elevated walkways I passed into a Cathedral of Nature where the cool aura is one of ageless nobility and I sensed a primordial dignity which was both humbling and protective. It may have been my heightened sensitivity after the past couple of days or the fact I was alone, or both, but I felt I was walking in a sacred place. Despite being a very short walk an hour disappeared whilst I lingered here.

From here I recommend you continue on up the road to the Summit of Mount Donna Buang and scale the observation tower. I found it reassuring to see such a vast portion of our state still forested. Just below the summit, Mount Donna Buang Road continues on to Healesville and this is my recommended route home. A small portion of this road is unmade but suitable for all vehicles if taken slowly and the vistas are spectacular. Do yourself a favour and take this road less travelled.

I returned to Melbourne via Yarra Glen and Kangaroo Ground in order to prolong my indulgent experience and as I drove into Eltham I must admit to wiping away a few tears.

Relax guys, I had something in my eye!

Words and Images © Copyright. Brett Foster.

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