Loosen Up Your Style Of Painting...Illustrated.

This Post is by David Kessler, regular contributing writer for FineArtViews…I thought I might share it with you…Most of his ideas are totally in sync. with the way I paint, except I never do value studies... Janis

Everyone wants to know how to loosen up and paint in a loose fresh style. Painting loosely is my natural approach, however there are many elements of a loose technique that can be taught. Through my years as an artist I have developed a series of notes and observations on what it takes to “loosen-up” your paintings. Nearly all of these tips have a common denominator – simplification. The more you simplify what you do, the more it frees your mind to concentrate on staying loose. These are very simple techniques that anyone can do, so read and enjoy!

Painting Loosely is a State of Mind. Before beginning a painting you must consciously think about loosening up. Tell yourself that this time you will approach the subject matter with reckless abandon. Clear your mind, do a few warm-up sketches, and jump in.

Always Create a Value Study. One of the best tips I can give you is to always plan your work using a value study. A value study forces you to work out the composition and the values before you paint. Once the composition and values are clearly thought out and put on paper, all that is left to focus on is the application of fresh, juicy color.

Do a Loose Pencil Sketch. This loose sketch of your subject matter on your paper or canvas will begin the loosening-up process. Use loose, free lines. Remember that the pencil sketch is the genesis of the painting, it is the first thing you put on the paper. A good pencil sketch will usually still be seen under you watercolors. This helps the viewer to participate in the genesis of the painting, to be a part of it’s beginning. For this reason I never erase my pencil lines from my paintings.

Stand Up. Stand up to paint if you are able. Standing keeps you at arms length from the paper or canvas, and forces you to move your arms and shoulders as you paint, thus encouraging the loosening-up process. Make big, bold strokes across the paper or canvas and feel the exhilaration that it brings. Eric Wiegardt states that this is also the first step in showing the paper who’s boss!

Always Paint with Large Brushes. This is an absolute must. It is much easier to loosen up if you are using a large brush (1-1/2 inch or larger). A large brush makes you focus on painting the large shapes and discourages you from painting details. To help yourself loosen up further, hold the brush very lightly by the very tip – you will be amazed at the difference in your painting. You should use a large brush until the painting is nearly complete. At this time your large shapes should be in and you should be ready to place any smaller shapes and calligraphy by using a small flat brush, round brush, or a rigger brush.

Forget the Details. Be willing to forget the details so you can focus on the larger parts of the painting. Once the larger parts are in place the details will take care of themselves. Don’t get carried away with painting blades of grass or leaves on trees. A few peppy bright colors and some snappy calligraphy should be all you need to create just the right amount of detail in a painting.

Compose with Large Shapes. Your composition should consist of 5 to 7 large to medium sized interlocking shapes that form the building blocks of your painting. This simplification process will help you create paintings that have greater clarity and visual impact. Large shapes are also easily painted with a large brush.

Compose with Fewer Values. Nature provides us with thousands of different values. As painters we cannot match thousands of values, so we must simplify them so they read with clarity in our work. It is up to you to simplify your value pattern down to 3-5 values. I try to always use a 4 value system: whites, light mid-value, dark mid-value and darks. This approach will greatly simplify your value patterns and strengthen the contrast in your work.

Limit Your Color Palette. Just as limiting your values will strengthen your painting and free your mind, so too will using fewer colors. The fewer colors, the fewer color decisions to be made as you paint. I try to limit my palette to between 3 and 5 colors per painting. If you really want to have fun, try using only 2 colors!

Use Plenty of Water and Pigment. Don’t skimp on the paint! Don’t be afraid to use plenty of water and juicy wonderful paint when you are painting. I can’t tell you how many students are afraid to squeeze the paint out of the tube. You can’t get color on the paper if it is in the tube! When you add paint to your palette you should squeeze an entire tube into each paint well. Saturate your large brush with juicy pigment and splash it across the page. You will be amazed how it automatically frees your mind and loosens up your approach. Plus it just feels good!

You’re Not Painting a Masterpiece. Nothing can hinder painting loosely more than trying to paint a masterpiece every time you put brush to paper or canvas. Some of my best pieces have been created when I was just experimenting. Painting is a journey to be loved, not a collection of masterpieces. Learn to love painting for the act and process of painting, not just for the product of the effort. If you make a big mistake, turn the paper over and begin again – it is only paper. If its canvas, paint over it with gesso and begin again. Frank Webb says “it takes acres of paper to make a painter”. PS: The Mona Lisa has already been painted!

Accept What it Gives You. When painting, especially with watercolor, you must be willing to accept what the paint and paper give you. You must literally go with the flow. Watercolor sometimes does what it wants to do and you have to be willing to accept it and move forward. Sometimes the mixtures that you didn’t mean to let happen, or the extra water that dropped on your paper can be the best parts of the work. Remember that the greatest glory of watercolor is in it’s spontaneity.

My paintings above, chronicle an imaginary journey and are all painted in watercolour on a single sheet of MDF…each time the previous painting was removed and a new one created on the same surface. Janis

This article appears courtesy of FineArtViews.com by Clint Watson, a free email newsletter about art, marketing, inspiration and fine living for artists, collectors and galleries (and anyone else who loves art) .

  • Belinda "BillyLee" NYE

    Belinda "Billy...

    Thanks I need that! Or so my art teacher tells me…I HAVE TO LOOSEN UP!

  • Janis Zroback replied

    Nice to see you Billy…glad you liked the article… :)))

  • Linda Callaghan

    Linda Callaghan

    Thank you so very much Janis for sharing this!! such wonderful advice and info. I paint sitting down for starters and tend to overkill on detail! I do like realistic paintings but also want to learn how to create something from inside myself – and let the paint do the talking…just like it describes above. One question (hope this does not sound silly) how do you do watercolour on MDF – I thought watercolour had to be painted on paper….I want to move to canvas as there is a trend towards that. Sooo many questions so I may bubblemail you soon if you do not mind. Thanks again…going to read it again later – off out now!

  • Janis Zroback replied

    I stand for the most part and sit for the last details….watercolour can be painted on anything that will accept it, but, and this is a big but, watercolour paper and specially coated canvases and boards will give you predictable results and are archival. MDF is hard and the paint does not get absorbed…it slides around…but it stays bright…however you can’t layer without removing the one before, so everything keeps changing…
    I don’t advise using it, unless like I did, for fun and for the special effects…if I wanted to keep any painting on MDF, I would have to make sure it had several coats of a finishing varnish…that being said MDF is perfect for tempera and oils, provided they are coated first with the proper mediums…these are special ones sold at the art store..
    I just bought mine at a lumber store and primed it first, then painted, then removed the painting with water and did a new one….it was all for RB prints and not meant to be permanent…there are no originals except the last one…also they are heavy as they are meant to make cupboards etc…
    RE your remark about canvas…I assume you are talking about acrylics…I do all my acrylics on canvas…however watercolour on canvas, even the specially coated ones ( called watercolour canvas), are not as good as the best paper…cotton or linen paper and watercolour are meant for each other…
    I’m glad you like the article…thanks so much…

  • Euan  Thorburn

    Euan Thorburn

    thank you janis
    xxx

  • Janis Zroback replied

    You are very welcome Euan…it’s so nice to see you again…

  • Jim Phillips

    Jim Phillips

    Not only are you an excellent painter, but more over, a true student of art. You are quite a smart lady. Oddly enough, I enjoyed your answer or reply to Linda as much as I did the article you posted. Learned from both.

  • Janis Zroback replied

    I am re-reading my reply to Linda, and I think it’s a bit disjointed as I was in a hurry..if there is anything you want me to clarify let me know…thanks Jim…

  • GloriaDK

    GloriaDK

    Thanks for the article Janis, I have always loved detail that is why I took up silver-smithing. When I paint I love to do so with large canvases standing at a distance and finish a Jackson Pollock.

  • Janis Zroback replied

    That’s good Gloria…I would like to see your Pollock canvases and hope you don’t, like him, use house paint…his paintings are all starting to rot… :))

  • Linda Callaghan

    Linda Callaghan

    thank you so much Janis for the advice and info. it all helps….I have paper, canvas and also wood sitting here waiting for me to use right now… the only thing with paper is you have to buy the frames or get them framed! I have a lot of my paintings hanging on my wall in frames at the moment. I must get myself a decent easel…the one I have it too light and tends to move too much. Anyway Jim is so right you are a great teacher of art! thank you again and better let you go…

  • Janis Zroback replied

    I use a good desk top easel for smaller works…you can see it HERE when I have to do detailed work on canvas I use it…for all large paintings I use a good quality large easel with a sturdy plywood board that I stained and varnished…I clip the paper to it, with bull dog clips…at the beginning stages of a watercolour, I stand with the paper flat on the table…if I want the paint to run, I prop it slightly…frankly I find watercolour canvas pretty useless in comparison to paper like Arches, the paintings never look as good…and you would still have to frame it under glass as watercolours should not be exposed to air….varnishing is not done on watercolour….

  • Alison Pearce

    Alison Pearce

    Wonderful article!! Thanks for sharing Janis and what stunning pieces you have chosen to illustrate the piece!

  • Janis Zroback replied

    You are very welcome Alison..I’m glad you enjoyed it… :))

  • Fee Dickson

    Fee Dickson

    great article. I have got nuhg up on trying to ‘paint masterpieces’ this week, with disastrous results – a nice reminder that that is a bad idea ;p

  • Janis Zroback replied

    I’m glad you enjoyed it Fee…I think sometimes the best paintings emerge when we don’t try too hard…

  • Fee Dickson

    Fee Dickson

    And I wish you could edit comments for typos! apologies for my terrible spelling

  • Anna D'Accione

    Anna D'Accione

    I;m inspired, I am going to start painting again, I usually do oils but will try a bit of water colour.
    Thanks Janis and I agree with all of the above RB lers. They are so great and a lot is learned every day

  • Janis Zroback replied

    You are very welcome Anna…if you scroll through my writing, you will find many articles like this one… enjoy…

  • Vickyh

    Vickyh

    Thank you Janis and Linda !!! I have learnt a lot from your article and conversation !!

  • Janis Zroback replied

    You are so welcome Vicky…I try to post how-to articles as often as possible…have a look at the others…you might find something of particular interest to you… :))

  • Linda Callaghan

    Linda Callaghan

    Hi Janis …yes already looked at your easel etc. have commented a while ago now but you prob. missed it…I do spray my watercolours now with Crystal Kote which someone told me about..I did not use anything at first and they were fading…thanks again!!! I also have a small desk top easel that I do use from time to time but yours does look sturdy!

  • Janis Zroback replied

    No I didn’t see the comment…they sometimes miss the overview page…
    The colours in your paintings should not fade…it means they were not lightfast…when you are replacing them stick with a brand like W/N, but not the student grade which I don’t think is lightfast….watercolours were meant to be placed under glass only for protection from dust etc, as they cannot be cleaned, once they get dirty…
    I own watercolours that are over 100 years old and they are still as bright as when they were first painted…that’s one of the strengths of the medium…unlike oils, watercolours never change…that being said if they are framed with non archival mats, the paper will yellow from the acid in the mats, and if they are placed in direct sun, the glass will affect the painting, but all the top quality pigments are lightfast, with the exception of certain shades like carmine red which can be fugitive…Crystal Kote will eventually affect the painting….very few of my paintings are framed, but all are protected from dust… sorry Linda…it’s the teacher side of me coming out….but you aren’t a student, so feel free to ignore me… :)))

  • Linda Callaghan

    Linda Callaghan

    LOL :-D….no Janis I will not ignore you …I am soaking it all up like a sponge…so really the proof is in the paints you use …Windsor and Newton seem to be the ones to buy! I must invest in better quality paints when I can…even if I get one now and then as I really do not like using the little tubes which are cheaper than the bigger ones but the large ones would keep better. The small ones tend to dry up for some reason and I cant get the tops back on etc and then have to cut them open! thanks so much Janis keep on teaching as you keep teaching then I keep learning! ....

  • Pam Hunt-Bromfield

    Pam Hunt-Bromf...

    Thanks for this Janis. Much appreciated.

  • Janis Zroback replied

    You’re very welcome Pam.. :))

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