A Surfing Story (not about sharks)

Hiking deep into the Kohala Coast of the Big Island’s north shore , coming off the far ridge into this hidden gem steamy and glowing in its very private reality.

This is a hidden secret on the Kohala (very north most point of the Big Island of Hawaii) coast called Light house point

…almost got killed there and didnt even know it.
I paddled out(no one else there) it was 3-5 foot swells
its a ravine between two cliffs
and by the time I got in the water(after climbing down the cliffs)
the swell had just arrived,

Once I got in the water I knew it was too late to turn around
I had to get outside before the waves knocked me into the cliffs
paddled as hard as I ever could for 15 minutes straight trying to get out
just barely making it over the last one only to see a bigger wave
coming in more outside,
every time I punched through the top it knocked me back two meters and
the rip was taking me in front of the cliffs of no return.

Must have been 40 waves bigger and farther out all the time,
my arms were cramped about to die kept my wits made it outside
sat there shaking afraid to catch a wave
for fear of the inside (and what I just gone through)
knowing just one more wave and I would not have made it.
Now the whole place was jumping coming so alive
The fear of staying there got the best of me

Finally got up the courage before the waves
got even bigger and it would be too late
let the next set knock me for a loop
went in on boulders from the other side of the break
a quarter mile down the slide among
boulders the size of elephants
getting washed in…but never felt so good

now close to shore got a few scratches on my legs
which were still shaking
….so glad I was in shape surfing every day
I made it in/went home safe to surf another day
another chance encounter with death and to survive
feels so good to feel the sun so good to be alive!
-jyruff

…oh the cliffs are several hundred feet high
concave from the waves hitting its base
no way i could have survived if the waves
had knocked me in there.

(Only a handful of surfers surf here ( literally less than ten)
we all know each other I always surf by myself
cause I got use to doing/going just where I want
when and for how long -so easy that way,

in all my years this is the closest to dying I came…
on such a sunny pleasant blue sky tropical day too lol!
Talk about intense concentration!

Never had I talked to myself so much at one time,
thinking every moment , every action so I wouldnt die
(not even in war).
Never can tell when its your time,
But you sure can do something about it if you really have to and want to survive.

14″ × 30″ original oil on 3x prime canvas hand painted by Hawaii seascape artist Joseph Ruff

A Surfing Story (not about sharks)

jyruff

Kaneohe, United States

Artist's Description

Getting so use to danger you forget where you really are untill it all goes wrong

Tags

surfing alone

Artwork Comments

  • Diane Johnson-Mosley
  • jyruff
  • Lynda Robinson
  • jyruff
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