Hiking deep into the Kohala Coast of the Big Island’s north shore , coming off the far ridge into this hidden gem steamy and glowing in its very private reality
This is a hidden secret on the Kohala (very north most point of the Big Island of Hawaii) coast called Light house point
…almost got killed there and didnt even know it.
I paddled out(no one else there) it was 3-5 foot swells
its a ravine between two cliffs
and by the time I got in the water(after climbing down the cliffs)
the swell had just arrived,
paddled as hard as I ever could for 15 minutes straight trying to get out
just barely making it over the last one only to see a bigger wave
coming in more outside,
every time I punched through the top it knocked me back two meters and
the rip was taking me in front of the cliffs of no return.
Must have been 40 waves bigger and father out all the time,
my arms were cramped
sat shaking outside afraid to catch a wave
for fear of the inside
finally got up the courage before the waves
got even bigger and it would be too late
went in on boulders from the other side of the break
a quarter mile down the slide among
boulders the size of elephants
getting washed in…but never felt so good
now close to shore got a few scratches on my legs
which were still shaking
….so glad I was in shape surfing every day
I made it in/went home safe to surf another day
…oh the cliffs are several hundred feet high
concave from the waves hitting its base
no way i could have survived if the waves
had knocked me in there. – jyruff
(Only a handful of surfers surf here ( literally less than ten) we all know each other I always surf by myself cause I got use to doing/going just where I want when and for how long -so easy that way, in all my years this is the closest o dying I came…on such a sunny pleasant blue sky tropical day too lol! Never can tell when its your time)14″ × 30″ original oil on 3x prime canvas hand painted by Hawaii seascape artist Joseph Ruff : http://www.redbubble.com/people/jyruff/art/7288...
by jyruff”: http://www.redbubble.com/people/jyruff/art/7288...