Jason Daley

Ahh surfing. It takes you places, introduces you to so many friends, teaches you a new language, lets you see the world through a different perspective. What else can give you such stoke that your sitting in a boardroom meeting and as the drabble goes on you start drifing off thinking of that cracking barrel you got at dawn while most were still sleeping. Your brought back to attention by drip of saltwater coming out your nose because you didn’t quite make it out! Then you can’t help but grin like a cheshire cat. “Only a surfer knows the feeling!”. Its like a nod and a wink. A secret club only evident to those who know what to look for. Look for the tired people with salty red eyes every time theres a major swell event.