It’s 5am and sleeping is not an option. I’m way too excited, way too anxious. I have been rolling around in the car seat for he past three hours because I have no excuse for not being here, now. As I hope that it was all worthwhile, I’m wondering how everything can be so perfect up until now. I have checked the weather forecasts continually and there is no room for error. Big swell, light offshore winds and my wetsuits dry. I have been waiting a whole year a not once have I seen it perfect. Just one hour left until it all unfolds as I sit here writing this journal, not aware of the next step. The three hours seem like a day but we eventually pull into the parking lot that we found on this exact day, one year ago. we get out the car just in time to see two dolphins swimming along a blue cave of water waiting for permission to explode onto a shallow shelf in what seemed like slow motion. Then it happened, pooof! Time stopped and all I could see was a big white cloud erupt out of a barrel as wide as a street. it was over. Finished, kla, as I put down my now blunt pencil and retreat into the blue for what seemed to me like a never-ending dream.
a story about a perfect surf adventure that could be taken as a dream