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“…And Catherine took her cooks to France with her. They were probably the first great chefs de cuisine in the land, and galling though the fact may be to those Frenchmen who mix patriotism with their love of fine food, they were Italians, every one. / Paris seemed harsh and boorish to the lonesome Florentines. They moped for the gay lightness of their own banquet-halls. There ladi…