I was going through some old mail this morning and found a piece written to me by my friend Cody about 10 years ago. He was a keen surfer and loved to tell me about his adventures. I think this one in particular rocks. Warning: Some coarse language.
Late arvie we were about wrapping up, and decided to get the last set ride-in. It wasn’t a big wave, but big enough – I reckon about 4-5 feet. I was in the right spot, and Steve saw me take off [so it shoulda been my wave]. The lip was already peeling off where he was and [he] musta thought, “To hell with it”. I thought he was gonna go over the falls, but he dropped down clean about half way in fronta me. Now, if that hada been some other dude I woulda shot my board into his ass. I shouted to Steve to fuck off, and he shouted back, “Follow me, wussy boy!”
We were shouting so loud to be heard [above the roar of the wave] that I reckon everyone in the surf musta heard us. So I followed him. We took a straight, clean line cos the wave had already progressed so damn far, and I hadta move up quick to get as close to him as possible – or get nailed by the wave breaking up cos of his ride.
I reckon we both watched as the peak folded over us, and the wave closed in behind us, and the roar became a distant rumble. And there we were. Both in the green room. And there was a rushhhhhhhhhh of our boards slicing the wave. We screamed, we were so fucking stoked.
Steve looked over his shoulder to see if I’d made it into the green room, and he fucking beamed. The whole tube had this dark green glow to it cos the sun was going down already, and it was like the world had gone silent ‘cept for the sound of our boards and a distant rumble.
Steve went into a crouch, and pushed, and shot through the other side of the wave as the vacuum spat him out. I was right there but the wave closed and I ended up in the washing machine. I knew it would happen, though. There was no fucking way both of us would get outta there.
I’ve never ever seen two guys in a tube before. Other guys in the surf who saw it all happen were screaming! And the little grommet was screaming like he was at a pop concert. And all that musta taken less than half a minute.
That was our last wave. We decided that we would sleep with that wave in our heads.
Anyway, just imagine in slow motion a wave peeling. The sun is setting, and in the dark part of the wave two shadows disappear under the breaking peak – then – silence. “Hello darkness, my old friend, I’ve come to talk to you again”, from Simon and Garfunkel, I think. My dad has the music.
An account of a rare ride by my friend Cody.