Mark German

Exposure - for beginners/ intermediate photographers.

I just answered a question in a certain group forum, and it occurs to me that it may be useful to others. Feel free to ask any questions.

So here goes:

General rule-of-thumb: expose to the right.

What that means, is – use your histogram and get your exposure to the right half without hitting the far right edge. Anything clipped (blown, over-exposed) will be data lost for good. The same goes for black clipping (under-exposed). The reason exposing to the right is better then to the left, is that recovering data/detail from dark areas creates noise – whereas the reverse does not.

A little rule that may help you with exposure:
Sunny 16

Basically what this catchy-named rule means, is this:
Given a bright and sunny day outdoors, correct exposure for any scene will be f/16, 1/125 SS, ISO100 (also known as ASA)

Working up and down with this (and your histogram displays 8 stops of light) you can adjust to suit.

For example – a slightly overcast day:
f/11, 1/125, ISO100 (1-stop wider aperture)
or
f/16, 1/60, ISO100 (1-stop slower SS)
or
f/16, 1/125, ISO200 (1-stop more sensitive film/sensor)

If you have a specific requirement with SS (stop motion, blur, etc), adjust the other parameters to compensate. To stop your hand motion blur, use the reciprocal of your focal length. Example: 100mm needs at least 1/100th SS. Crop bodies need to be multiplied by the crop. (ask if confused)
If your subject is moving, double SS. If you are also moving, triple it.
Of course using a tripod (and you should whenever feasible) changes this.

With photography, each numerical value doubles.
ISO: 100/200/400/800/1600/3200
SS: 25/60/125/250/500/1000/2000/4000/8000

Aperture can be remembered by using this system:
Use two numbers (f/1 & f/1.4) and double them as you go.

f/1, f/2,f/4,f/8,f/16,f/32
f/1.4,f/2.8,f/5.6,f/11,f/22

Now put them together and you have your full range of full-stop apertures :) Some cameras will list 1/2 or even 1/3 stops.

Aperture effects Depth of Field (DoF), which is the distance between the closest area in acceptable focus, and the furthest. Choose your aperture to suit your subject/scene. Adjust the other two parameters accordingly.

If you ever come up to a situation that has a very high dynamic range (DR) and can’t wait for better light – bracket your shots. That is, expose +/- from the above settings. You can then either decide what you like best, or even combine exposures. (ask how). Of course – if you are a street/candid/journalistic/wildlife style photographer, then you may only get one chance. Which is more the reason to learn the above.

Using additional lighting such as flash is a different matter, and other rules apply. The above is a basic guide to correct exposure for everyday and natural conditions.

Hope this helps some people. Feel comfortable in asking anything, or contributing.

Jo O'Brien, 2 months ago

Even I understood that… gosh. and thanks :)
Julie Langford, 2 months ago

Ohh shite – I have a headache now :)

Ok Mark – again, in little girl have no clue language please :)

On a more serious note – I know some of this, but where the hell is the histogram? I dont think I have one of those [or maybe I do and I just dont know it]
Jessica Tremp, 2 months ago

Thanks Mark, that’s a great summary
Taylor Jury, 2 months ago

Even though I knew almost all of this it was very detailed and would be able to help almost anyone. Nice job.

Taylor
Mark German in reply to Julie Langford’s comment, 2 months ago

On a more serious note – I know some of this, but where the hell is the histogram? I dont think I have one of those [or maybe I do and I just dont know it]

Julie, what camera/system are you using?
Brett Foster, 2 months ago

Nice one man. Do you use this system exclusively on AP and/or Manual mode? Or do you find it mode independent? Cheers.
Julie Langford, 2 months ago

Canon EOS 350 D [but I generally just point and shoot unless I want to photograph something thats moving or water etc.]
Mark German in reply to Brett Foster’s comment, 2 months ago

I use this when I shoot in manual, which is 80% of the time.
Mark German in reply to Julie Langford’s comment, 2 months ago

Ok Julie – you have a 1.6 crop sensor in your camera. Multiply your SS rule by 1.6.
Mark German in reply to Julie Langford’s comment, 2 months ago

Oh…and – your histogram can be found by viewing your image and pressing ‘info’ a few times :)
Julie Langford, 2 months ago

Thanks Mark – I will need to fav this to keep coming back to it – so dont remove it ok :)
Lauren O'Keefe, 2 months ago

i’m so printing this out and putting in my camera bag. :)
Mark German in reply to Lauren O'Keefe’s comment, 2 months ago

Does that mean I’ve become obsolete?
Jules Campbell, 2 months ago

Arhhh Mark you are truly after my heart …LOVE the technical language of cameras! nicely worded…. if only people could appreciate the fine meaning of F22 125 or the beauty (and availability) of ISO/ASA 1600 60 no flash in low light.
Music to my ears!
And no I’m not taking the piss LOL Cheers Jules
Lauren O'Keefe, 2 months ago

mark – NO!!
Courtney Goddard, 2 months ago

Julie i find my historgram by rotating the main dial (the one near your thumb) when the image is up on the screen – i think i rotate it two stops to the right.
good luck x
Mark – thank you i have printed this off and put it in my workbook.
x
Ben Hughes, 2 months ago

If anyone’s interested in a more in-depth discussion on why you should expose to the right, check of this

Ben
David Haviland, 2 months ago

Great article, would be cool if you posted in photography 101 forum.
David Haviland, 2 months ago

Sorry see that you already have, my bad.
mick8585, 2 months ago

Nowadays I am training myself to shoot Aperture Priority and let the camera supply SS to suit. This is a learning discipline Im forcing on myself to rid my use of Program.
Just trying to establish Fstop needed by judging the light at hand and what I want in an image and then bracket your shots to suit. Of course this remains difficult for ‘quick takes’ but remains a simple learning exercise for anyone to try.
Good article Mark.
Caroline Gorka, 2 months ago

You are a hero … excellent !
Mark German in reply to Caroline Gorka’s comment, 2 months ago

Nice avatar ;)
Caroline Gorka, 2 months ago

Yes…good shot eh? ;)
Hien Nguyen, 2 months ago

you’re doing good mark :)
jerry alcantara, 2 months ago

very helpfull tips,thanks mark!
Matthew Stewart, 2 months ago

Awesome stuff Mark!!!

In regards to the crop rule with a 1.6 sensor (I have the 400D) your example would thus be for me – “Example: 100mm needs at least 1/160th SS” ?
Mark German in reply to Matthew Stewart’s comment, 2 months ago

Yes, exactly, Matthew.
That is a rough guide only. Take into consideration all movement, and any image stabilisation you may or may not have in body/lens.
Bruce Watson, 2 months ago

Very clearly explained Mark. Has enabled me to DC my PCRL (digitally contextualize my prior celluloid-related learning). Helps to demystify the esoteric. When’s the book coming out?
Mark German in reply to Bruce Watson’s comment, 2 months ago

Hahaha :)
It’s all been said before, mate. I do get a lot of people asking me though, so I thought I’d write it down while I was in the mood. Now I just have to link ;)
DanielaK, 2 months ago

Hi Mark, can I just say how fantastic your work is! I didn’t know which photo to comment on first because so many of them are just so beautiful. I am assuming this requires many years of practice and a keen eye. What a talent -only my piano playing skills could possibly match your photographic skills. Amazing!
Mark German in reply to DanielaK’s comment, 2 months ago

Ahmmm…thanks, Daniela – but you are making me blush :)
Christina Martin, 2 months ago

mmm didn’t understand any of it guess one day I’ll read the book I must be doing a lot wrong LOL I just point and shoot. Will try thanks Mark.
Melissa Kirkham, 2 months ago

Mark I think I am going to have to hire you for face to face tutorial….. reading this confuses mejust as much as reading through the Photography second edition by Bruce Warren :(
Mark German, 2 months ago

Well, we are going shooting together sometime soon, are we not?
Jan Piller, about 1 month ago

I hate numbers…...
berndt2, about 1 month ago

Cool stuff – very succinct and complete
Melanie Dooley, about 1 month ago

Looks too much like maths to me!
Stephen Colquitt, about 1 month ago

Photo sensai – Thank you for the excellent tips.

When I can grab the camera from the palm of your hand I will be ready to leave your dojo. – We need to go and do some more shooting again soon!
Mark German in reply to Stephen Colquitt’s comment, about 1 month ago

Nicely exposed :)
demon, about 1 month ago

Holy shit Mark…I might go put my head back in the sand…lol

Will try and work out some of these tips and finally start learning how to use a camera…thankyou for the info…
Rosalie Dale IPA, about 1 month ago

Excellent – thank you!
ragman, about 1 month ago

Useful stuff Mark
Christine Wilson, about 1 month ago

how good is this :) I will even go as far as printing it out, I get most of it and remember you telling me about the histogram thing which I have been using ever since lol your always so helpful

cheers chris
Mark German in reply to Christine Wilson’s comment, about 1 month ago

You are one of the reasons I wrote it, Christine, since you asked me on that weekend :)
Christine Wilson, about 1 month ago

:)) oh good and its good to know that I’m not the only one who doesn’t know this stuff :) anyway thats the reason we belong to this group to learn form each other – I love it
Patricia Moore, about 1 month ago

Thank you so much Mark, now I can slowly come out of the auto mode, been playing some with manual mode and with these lessons, which help tremendousely, I will be makeing the decisions before long. Pat
Mark German in reply to Patricia Moore’s comment, about 1 month ago

Thanks, Patricia. Just remember that once you have practiced and memorised these basics, your brain is many thousands of times more powerful then the teeny computer in your camera :)
jianina, about 1 month ago

great advise>>>i will be getting a camera soon so hopefully i can use this as a referance and still take you up on the “feel free to ask questions” comment you made in the beginning>>>that doesn’t expire right!!>>?<<
Mark German in reply to jianina’s comment, about 1 month ago

Haha – no, it does not expire :)
Happy to help out if I can, anytime.
igo boing, about 1 month ago

great stuff thx gee i could rattle your ear for hours got any more tips
Mark German in reply to igo boing’s comment, about 1 month ago

Lots – but may not all be good ones :)
Tamela Wall, about 1 month ago

Mark, I am rather new to DSLR or SLR’s in general. I use a Nikon D80, how do i use a histogram and where can i find it on my camera? Thanks for the advise!
Mark German in reply to Tamela Wall’s comment, about 1 month ago

Hey Tamela :)

You can access the histogram on your camera when in ‘playback’ mode.The thumb wheel should allow you to scroll through various information screens.

The D80 has a standard histogram, and also red/green/blue split histograms. The ‘white’ histogram is essentially a diagram/graph showing you how many pixels in your image are exposed to a certain level – basically – brightness. The more pixels to the right of the screen, the more exposed the photo is. Once these graph bars hit the right hand side and start to climb up it – the photo is over exposed in some areas, and there is unrecoverable data. The reverse – graph showing the bars over to the left and bunched up against the side means the photo is under exposed. Your goal is to not touch either end. This is a little arbitrary – sometimes you have no choice (a dark area under a bridge with a very bright reflective river, for example) and you choose what you want to expose correctly.

‘HDR’ stands for ‘high dynamic range’. There are technical limitations on what level of HDR can be exposed perfectly, depending on your camera. Our eyes have this problem also. Sometimes specialised filters need to be used to capture the entire range of available light from brightest to dimmest.

The D80 also has red/green/blue histograms. These work just like the above, but seperate these three colours (which together make up white) for your inspection. Most important is the red graph. A histogram that has very high peaked red bars that are far over to the right is likely to be an over-saturated and incorrectly white balanced shot. Unless it is an over exposed shot of a a bright red subject :)
Stephen Mitchell, 15 days ago

Mark this is all great information that is excellently written! It’s amazing how many books and tutors simply don’t make it this easy to understand. I am printing a few bits of this for future reference.
^{PS. Weapon of Choice: Canon EOS 400D, nearly always in Manual Mode}
Simon Gottschalk, 1 day ago

Brilliant point of reference Mr. German. Of course we need to be creative and think a little outside the box from time to time as well, as you have mentioned before.
A subject I’d like your opinion on (and think that other may benefit from) is the pros and cons of shooting in JPEGs & RAW formats. Perhaps 3 of each would do. Thank you kindly for the heads up thus far.