I just answered a question in a certain group forum, and it occurs to me that it may be useful to others. Feel free to ask any questions.
So here goes:
General rule-of-thumb: expose to the right.
What that means, is – use your histogram and get your exposure to the right half without hitting the far right edge. Anything clipped (blown, over-exposed) will be data lost for good. The same goes for black clipping (under-exposed). The reason exposing to the right is better then to the left, is that recovering data/detail from dark areas creates noise – whereas the reverse does not.
A little rule that may help you with exposure:
Sunny 16
Basically what this catchy-named rule means, is this:
Given a bright and sunny day outdoors, correct exposure for any scene will be f/16, 1/100 SS, ISO100 (also known as ASA)
Working up and down with this you can adjust to suit.
For example – a slightly overcast day:
f/11, 1/100, ISO100 (1-stop wider aperture)
or
f/16, 1/50, ISO100 (1-stop slower SS)
or
f/16, 1/100, ISO200 (1-stop more sensitive film/sensor)
If you have a specific requirement with SS (stop motion, blur, etc), adjust the other parameters to compensate. To stop your hand motion blur, use the reciprocal of your focal length. Example: 100mm needs at least 1/100th SS. Crop bodies need to be multiplied by the crop. (ask if confused)
If your subject is moving, double SS. If you are also moving, triple it.
Of course using a tripod (and you should whenever feasible) changes this.
With photography, each numerical value doubles.
ISO: 100/200/400/800/1600/3200
SS: 25/60/125/250/500/1000/2000/4000/8000
Aperture can be remembered by using this system:
Use two numbers (f/1 & f/1.4) and double them as you go.
f/1, f/2,f/4,f/8,f/16,f/32
f/1.4,f/2.8,f/5.6,f/11,f/22
Now put them together and you have your full range of full-stop apertures :) Some cameras will list 1/2 or even 1/3 stops.
f/1, f/1.4,f/2,f/2.8,f/4,f/5.6,f/8,f/11,f/16,f/22,f32,f/44
Aperture effects Depth of Field (DoF), which is the distance between the closest area in acceptable focus, and the furthest. Choose your aperture to suit your subject/scene. Adjust the other two parameters accordingly.
A larger aperture number means a tighter aperture – which means less light.
If you ever come up to a situation that has a very high dynamic range (DR) and can’t wait for better light – bracket your shots. That is, expose +/- from the above settings. You can then either decide what you like best, or even combine exposures. (ask how). Of course – if you are a street/candid/journalistic/wildlife style photographer, then you may only get one chance. Which is more the reason to learn the above.
There are various filters available to help shoot skies and landscapes – or any scene that has defined high dynamic range. Circular polarisers, graduated neutral density filters – ask.
Using additional lighting such as flash adds another element to the equation, and other rules apply. The above is a basic guide to correct exposure for everyday and natural conditions.
Hope this helps some people. Feel comfortable in asking anything, or contributing.
Jo O'Brien
Even I understood that… gosh. and thanks :)
nannajul
Ohh shite – I have a headache now :)
Ok Mark – again, in little girl have no clue language please :)
On a more serious note – I know some of this, but where the hell is the histogram? I dont think I have one of those [or maybe I do and I just dont know it]
Mark German:
On a more serious note – I know some of this, but where the hell is the histogram? I dont think I have one of those [or maybe I do and I just dont know it]
Julie, what camera/system are you using?
jetsta42
Thanks Mark, that’s a great summary
Taylor Jury
Even though I knew almost all of this it was very detailed and would be able to help almost anyone. Nice job.
Taylor
PhotoBloke
Nice one man. Do you use this system exclusively on AP and/or Manual mode? Or do you find it mode independent? Cheers.
Mark German:
I use this when I shoot in manual, which is 80% of the time.
nannajul
Canon EOS 350 D [but I generally just point and shoot unless I want to photograph something thats moving or water etc.]
Mark German:
Ok Julie – you have a 1.6 crop sensor in your camera. Multiply your SS rule by 1.6.
Mark German:
Oh…and – your histogram can be found by viewing your image and pressing ‘info’ a few times :)
nannajul
Thanks Mark – I will need to fav this to keep coming back to it – so dont remove it ok :)
Lauren O'Keefe
i’m so printing this out and putting in my camera bag. :)
Mark German:
Does that mean I’ve become obsolete?
Jules Campbell
Arhhh Mark you are truly after my heart …LOVE the technical language of cameras! nicely worded…. if only people could appreciate the fine meaning of F22 @ 125 or the beauty (and availability) of ISO/ASA 1600 @ 60 no flash in low light.
Music to my ears!
And no I’m not taking the piss LOL Cheers Jules
Lauren O'Keefe
mark – NO!!
Courtney Goddard
Julie i find my historgram by rotating the main dial (the one near your thumb) when the image is up on the screen – i think i rotate it two stops to the right.
good luck x
Mark – thank you i have printed this off and put it in my workbook.
x
Ben Hughes
If anyone’s interested in a more in-depth discussion on why you should expose to the right, check of this
Ben
David Haviland
Great article, would be cool if you posted in photography 101 forum.
David Haviland
Sorry see that you already have, my bad.
mick8585
Nowadays I am training myself to shoot Aperture Priority and let the camera supply SS to suit. This is a learning discipline Im forcing on myself to rid my use of Program.
Just trying to establish Fstop needed by judging the light at hand and what I want in an image and then bracket your shots to suit. Of course this remains difficult for ‘quick takes’ but remains a simple learning exercise for anyone to try.
Good article Mark.
Caroline Gorka
You are a hero … excellent !
Mark German:
Nice avatar ;)
Caroline Gorka
Yes…good shot eh? ;)
Hien Nguyen
you’re doing good mark :)
jerry alcantara
very helpfull tips,thanks mark!
Matthew Stewart
Awesome stuff Mark!!!
In regards to the crop rule with a 1.6 sensor (I have the 400D) your example would thus be for me – “Example: 100mm needs at least 1/160th SS” ?
Mark German:
Yes, exactly, Matthew.
That is a rough guide only. Take into consideration all movement, and any image stabilisation you may or may not have in body/lens.
Bruce Watson
Very clearly explained Mark. Has enabled me to DC my PCRL (digitally contextualize my prior celluloid-related learning). Helps to demystify the esoteric. When’s the book coming out?
Mark German:
Hahaha :)
It’s all been said before, mate. I do get a lot of people asking me though, so I thought I’d write it down while I was in the mood. Now I just have to link ;)
DanielaK
Hi Mark, can I just say how fantastic your work is! I didn’t know which photo to comment on first because so many of them are just so beautiful. I am assuming this requires many years of practice and a keen eye. What a talent -only my piano playing skills could possibly match your photographic skills. Amazing!
Mark German:
Ahmmm…thanks, Daniela – but you are making me blush :)
Christina Martin
mmm didn’t understand any of it guess one day I’ll read the book I must be doing a lot wrong LOL I just point and shoot. Will try thanks Mark.
Melissa Kirkham
Mark I think I am going to have to hire you for face to face tutorial….. reading this confuses mejust as much as reading through the Photography second edition by Bruce Warren :(
Mark German
Well, we are going shooting together sometime soon, are we not?
janpiller
I hate numbers……
berndt2
Cool stuff – very succinct and complete
Melanie Dooley
Looks too much like maths to me!
Stephen Colquitt
Photo sensai – Thank you for the excellent tips.
When I can grab the camera from the palm of your hand I will be ready to leave your dojo. – We need to go and do some more shooting again soon!
Mark German:
Nicely exposed :)
demon
Holy shit Mark…I might go put my head back in the sand…lol
Will try and work out some of these tips and finally start learning how to use a camera…thankyou for the info…
Rosalie Dale
Excellent – thank you!
ragman
Useful stuff Mark
Christine Wilson
how good is this :) I will even go as far as printing it out, I get most of it and remember you telling me about the histogram thing which I have been using ever since lol your always so helpful
cheers chris
Mark German:
You are one of the reasons I wrote it, Christine, since you asked me on that weekend :)
Christine Wilson
:)) oh good and its good to know that I’m not the only one who doesn’t know this stuff :) anyway thats the reason we belong to this group to learn form each other – I love it
Pat Moore
Thank you so much Mark, now I can slowly come out of the auto mode, been playing some with manual mode and with these lessons, which help tremendousely, I will be makeing the decisions before long. Pat
Mark German:
Thanks, Patricia. Just remember that once you have practiced and memorised these basics, your brain is many thousands of times more powerful then the teeny computer in your camera :)
jianina
great advise>>>i will be getting a camera soon so hopefully i can use this as a referance and still take you up on the “feel free to ask questions” comment you made in the beginning>>>that doesn’t expire right!!>>?<<
Mark German:
Haha – no, it does not expire :)
Happy to help out if I can, anytime.
ADuDeWiDaCaMeRa
great stuff thx gee i could rattle your ear for hours got any more tips
Mark German:
Lots – but may not all be good ones :)
fromtheheart
Mark, I am rather new to DSLR or SLR’s in general. I use a Nikon D80, how do i use a histogram and where can i find it on my camera? Thanks for the advise!
Mark German:
Hey Tamela :)
You can access the histogram on your camera when in ‘playback’ mode.The thumb wheel should allow you to scroll through various information screens.
The D80 has a standard histogram, and also red/green/blue split histograms. The ‘white’ histogram is essentially a diagram/graph showing you how many pixels in your image are exposed to a certain level – basically – brightness. The more pixels to the right of the screen, the more exposed the photo is. Once these graph bars hit the right hand side and start to climb up it – the photo is over exposed in some areas, and there is unrecoverable data. The reverse – graph showing the bars over to the left and bunched up against the side means the photo is under exposed. Your goal is to not touch either end. This is a little arbitrary – sometimes you have no choice (a dark area under a bridge with a very bright reflective river, for example) and you choose what you want to expose correctly.
‘HDR’ stands for ‘high dynamic range’. There are technical limitations on what level of HDR can be exposed perfectly, depending on your camera. Our eyes have this problem also. Sometimes specialised filters need to be used to capture the entire range of available light from brightest to dimmest.
The D80 also has red/green/blue histograms. These work just like the above, but seperate these three colours (which together make up white) for your inspection. Most important is the red graph. A histogram that has very high peaked red bars that are far over to the right is likely to be an over-saturated and incorrectly white balanced shot. Unless it is an over exposed shot of a a bright red subject :)
Stephen Mitchell
Mark this is all great information that is excellently written! It’s amazing how many books and tutors simply don’t make it this easy to understand. I am printing a few bits of this for future reference.
PS. Weapon of Choice: Canon EOS 400D, nearly always in Manual Mode
Simon Gottschalk
Brilliant point of reference Mr. German. Of course we need to be creative and think a little outside the box from time to time as well, as you have mentioned before.
A subject I’d like your opinion on (and think that other may benefit from) is the pros and cons of shooting in JPEGs & RAW formats. Perhaps 3 of each would do. Thank you kindly for the heads up thus far.
picketty
Mark i am not using RAW becuase I can’t get RAW files to open. canon 350d and photoshop. What is going wrong?
Mark German:
What software are you using to import your files?
picketty
Normally windows Explorer….then I get a window asking me if I want to install so that I can view RAW but the program wont install. Is it a Vista problem???
Mark German
There is a fix to view RAW files in Explorer:
Link
But this is not really what you need.
You need a program to import your raw files, and then process them.
Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture, Bridge and others will do this.
I use PS/LR in combination, with LR being an excellent file management tool, along with general development facilities. I believe that earlier version of PS need the Adobe Camera RAW plugin.
The Canon CD that came with your camera also contains software to import RAW files, and if you do not have it, it should be a download from the website.
Carmel Harty
This is brilliant Mark and so great to read after you very generously took me through all these areas the other day. Will also be favouriting so can read and read….until is just like driving a car!! Thanks :)
BettinaSchwarz
this is wonderful! can’t quite thank you enough! – I’ll be favouriting this as well as printing it out … Thank you so much!!
Bellavista2
Thankyou so much this information has really helped:):)
chijude
Will print this out. So much to take in … and yet so well put. I’m new … and have a Nikon D90 … and so much to learn it can be overwhelming.
Your input is so so appreciated!!
Rachel Stickney
Very useful information! Printing and favoriting this. Thanks, Mark!
lcbirder
This is great info, Mark, but not quite sure what SS (stope motion, etc) actually means. Bit confused on that. It’s something I see in photos I admire, but haven’t done it. A photographer friend of mine just showed mehow to use my manual settings on my Canon 40D, so I’m excited about that. Just sitting in my house and practising with lighting I find there is such a variety of what you can do, I’m not sure what is the best to do? Some of it looks good to me and it might be alittle unconventional. I have settings on my camera that are 0"4, or 1"3. I notice a lot of lighting variations with these settings, but not sure what they mean. Probably should read my manual, heh. Any help will be great!
Mark German:
Hi there :)
With regards to your shutter speed question -
The shutter in your camera opens and closes to allow light to pass through your lens and onto your camera sensor (or film).
How long the shutter is open, is one of the factors that effects the total exposure (high bright/dark) your capture is. But it effects more than that. A fast shutter speed can be so fast, that it stops vibration from your hands to the camera. It also can stop ‘action’ – like a person running, of a bird flying. The faster your shutter opens and closes, the less time light has to affect your sensor, and therefore the less light in your photo.
Slow shutter speeds let in more light (or, light for longer – same result) but can have the effect of blurring your subject. It may take 1/200th of a second to freeze a person walking quickly down the street, or 1/2000th of sec to freeze a hummingbird’s wings. These subject will be blurred if the SS is too slow for them.
You hands transmit vibration to the camera, no matter how steady you are, and how still your subject is. There is a simple guideline to counter this. In simple terms – at 100mm focal length, 1/100th SS, and then add the crop factor of your sensor. In your case, it is a 1.6x crop sensor (field of view), so 100mmFL (focal length) gives you 1/160th shutter speed – for a static subject.
The other two parameters – ISO and Aperture also effect exposure (see above, or ask further)
Mary Campbell
This is really good information for shooting right to begin with, but all is not lost if you shoot in RAW mode as it records everything the camera sees. Later you can adjust exposure compensation as well in programs like PS. Better to do it right to beging with though as the rest is more work for you.
danielborden
great info, what is the relation between f/ stop and exposure comp. i use a Nikon D60 and it’s range is -5.0~ +5.0
Mark German:
Your D60 EC is in 1/3 ‘EV’ steps. ‘EV’ stands for Exposure Value – a ‘standard’ measure of ambient light. Consider one EV to be one stop of light, in relation to any of the other three parameters for exposure: ISO/SS/Ap.
The relation between Ap & EC (exposure compensation) is that they both effect exposure – but not necessarily in the same way. Exposure is adjusted depending on your shooting mode at the time.
If you are shooting in ApPriority (controlling aperture, and not SS), your SS will be automatically slowed down to half the value at ‘correct exposure’. So, if it was metering at 1/500th, EC+1 stop, would bring SS down to 1/250th (1 full stop of light).
If you are shooting in ShutterPriority (controlling SS, not aperture), then doing the above would open your aperture by one full stop of light. So if it metered correctly at f/11, aperture would widen to f/8.
If shooting in manual – you adjust both (all) to wherever you consider exposure to be important. Say – a subject’s face, rather than the dark pair of pants. In that case, you might choose to ‘over-expose’ to whatever your camera meter is telling is the ‘average correct exposure’. If you were using spot or partial metering, this would a finer control.
That help you any?
(don’t forget the ‘side effects’ of aperture and SS adjustment)
danielborden
Thanks for clearing that up,much appreciated.
Mark German:
Just re-reading what I said above. In the examples, I failed to point out that they are based on a +EC of 1 stop.
jwinman
best explanation I have ever read… great job of simplifying!
maxy
very helpful!!! I will work on those – thank you for the wonderful tips! xoxo!
Jim Sugrue
Great stuff Mark – thanks for taking the time!
DragonFlyer
So clearly explained! Thanks! I shoot 95% on manual and expose for what I want… (Now – after a year of ‘learning’…lol) though – i don’t know where my histogram is either (Sony Alpha 350)! Will need to re-check my manual – would help to have that available to view!
Kelly Cavanaugh
Wonderful! Thank you!
Jeannie Peters
Thank you this is great
HouryPhotoArt
Thanks, this is a great tutorial and comments!!