BYRON

TRIPODS AND HEADS by BYRON

Posted on June 04, 2010

GENERAL INFORMATION

The one piece of equipment that every photographer should have in their cupboard is the tripod.

They do one thing and they do it really well – they hold your camera steady.

They are usefull for Landscapes, very very handy for Studio Portraits, and absolutely mandatory for Macro & Close-up photography.

As a general rule with tripods – you get what you pay for. You will be entrusting your prized & expensive camera equipment to a stand … spending a bit of money now will save you a whole lot of heartache later.

Quality tripods have six main features:

1. Weight.
A tripod needs some weight to it otherwise it will vibrate in the wind, or when traffic passes by.

2. Metal joints.
All joints should be of strong solid metal construction – these are the parts of the tripod which will take the most stress.

3. Metal or Carbon Fibre legs.
Plastic legs tend to flex and bend ever so slightly which will add to the vibration. Metal or Carbon Fibre is also more durable.

4. Rugged Feet.
Your tripod should have large rubber feet to cushion the tripod from external vibrations. Many tripods also have rubber feet which screw back to expose a metal spike for grip on ice or similar surfaces.

5. Screw-Type Locking Clamps.

Screw-Type Locking Clamps are the style of Leg Locking Clamp where you have to manually rotate a bolt to clamp the legs into place. Sure they take a bit of time to screw and unscrew, but they also never slip no matter how much use they get because you just keep screwing the bolt until it is tight. This is always preferable to the alternative…

Flick-lever or Quick-release lever-type clamps.

These operate a small cam which will eventually wear out from use and not hold the legs in place. Nothing is quite as terrifying as watching your beautifull camera nose-dive into the concrete as one of the quick-release locking clamps on your tripod gives way. Do not buy a tripod with quick-release leg clamps.

6. Sliding / non-geared centre column.
The centre column of your tripod should be a manually operated column, ie… you dont have to wind a geared mechanism to make the column go up and down. Geared mechanisms never lock in place properly which means the centre column is never truly stable. The more use they get the worse they get. Not that it counts for anything, but amongst tech-snob photographers it is considered that only “noobs” use tripods with a gear-activated centre column. Not that that counts for anything, right?


TRIPODS

Of the brands I would recommend there are really only two that I would buy: Manfrotto and Benbo.

The BENBO TREKKER MK3 sells for about $350AUD

Check out the range available online in Australia here: VANBAR IMAGING

The MANFROTTO 190XPROB

The reason these tripods are so good [especially for macro and close up work] is that you can position the camera in any plane not only the vertical plane.

In fact you can position the camera upside down under the universal joint.

As you can see in the above photo – you could position the camera at 2 inches off the ground with complete stability to do a macro shot of a blade of grass. There is no better tripod for this kind of work. These are also great if you are doing macro work indoors [ie… on a table] because [again] you can position your camera in any plane.

Sure, they may be a bit heavy, but heavy is gooood for this work where stability is a prime concern [any slight movement during macro work is magnified out of control].

If you need a tripod for use while hiking then you buy a light-weight easy to carry unit, or get a monopod.

I would buy one in a second now, unfortuneatly they weren’t available 14years ago and I bought a Manfrotto, which has been and continues to be an excellent unit.

I, personally, would avoid “SLIK” brand tripods – my experience with them is that they are a bit light weight and not as sturdy in constuction. However – I have not seen their full range, and my perception of SLIK is from 14 years ago.

See what this guy has to say about his Benbo Trekker


MONOPODS

These are great for fast action photography where you are constantly on the move, however they only provide stability in the vertical plane – its upto you to hold it still in every other direction.

These tripods suit sports photography and wildlife photography.


GORILLA PODS

The Gorilla Pod is one of the most useful gadgets ever.

Light, easy to carry, and they can be adapted to suit any surface, or fixed to any surface quickly and easily. Prices range from $15-$240.00AUS


HEAD UNITS

Pistol Grip / Joystick Heads

The Manfrotto 222:

The Manfrotto 322RC2:

The Manfrotto 324RC2:

Pistol Grip Heads are great for quick fast changes and are especially usefull on monopods where you can only use one hand to adjust the head [because your other hand is holding the monopod!] But they are not as good for fine precise control.

3-way Heads:

Make sure they have big easy to grip handles with soft grip texture – they can get quite stiff especially if you are using a camera of any substance. These heads are the best for fine acurate control in all three planes. The reason they are so good is because when you adjust one plane – you don’t effect the other two planes.

Video Heads:

Video heads are recognisable by their long rear-mounted handles. Typically they will rotate left-right, tilt up down, and tilt to the left but not left-right.

Don’t buy Video Heads for your SLR – they are completely useless because the long arm gets in the way preventing you from looking through your viewfinder. The lack of movement in all 3 planes is also anathema when using these heads with a SLR.

The Manfrotto 390RC:

These types of Video Heads are fine for your average cheapo home video camera where you don’t want to move the camera once filming has started. Their mechanisms are not really designed for super smooth movement.

If you do need a Video Head that allows for smooth movement, then spend the money and get an oil-damped Video Head. These heads have super smooth movement due to oil-filled hydraulic mechanisms. Once you have tried one of these you will never use anything else for your Video Camera.

The Manfrotto Pro 501HDV with oil-damped mechanism:

Ball Joint / Ball Lock Head:

These are ok but not as accurate or as flexible to use as a 3-Way Head. Definitely not for macro work! I have known a couple of photogs who have these, and they both found them to be good quality heads, but annoying to use. They are not as flexible-in-use as a 3-way head, and they tend not to hold their position as well with heavy cameras.

Generally, all manufacturer’s heads will fit onto all tripods as they are industry universal connectors, but always check first!

One last thing… all decent Head Units have a little brass locking pin that when activated prevents the release lever from releasing your camera. You can see it on the right-hand side of the Ball Joint Head shown above. They look the same on all Head Units.

ALWAYS ACTIVATE THIS SAFETY DEVICE AFTER ATTACHING YOUR CAMERA TO THE TRIPOD


  • robpixaday

    robpixaday

    WOW! Fabulous!
    I didn’t know they could do things like this…mine’s very basic so I didn’t know they could do such cool stuff! Will try some of the moves up there!

  • robpixaday

    robpixaday

    Well, not the leg-bending ones…LOL

  • Dawn OConnor

    Dawn OConnor

    Byron thanks for this but if you only had less than £100 GBP is there a suitable alternative?

    Ive even seen some on amazon that sell for less than £50 and the reviews for them are great?
    link

    link

    link

  • BYRON:

    Dawn, the first and last tripods are for Video Cameras [check the long handles] the 2nd one may be a bit light and possibly 2nd hand.

    You can use light tripods, but they are prone to vibrations especially outdoors.

    You really want metal construction especially for all the joints. Plastic legs can be a bit flexible which adds to the vibration.

    It all depends on your purpose.

  • Dawn OConnor

    Dawn OConnor

    ok thanks, i did have my eye on the 2nd one, there are 3 left on that link so not second hand i think, also many others of the same model but ill keep looking and bear in mind your advice about a metal one, cheers

  • Dawn OConnor

    Dawn OConnor

    ps weight is a factor for me as im not as strong as i was once lol x

  • BYRON:

    Dawn, even the “heavy” ones aren’t all that heavy. You would be able to carry one just fine. Maybe not if you were hiking over mountains all day, but for any other purpose you really wont have a problem.

    A lightweight tripod serves no-one anygood if it doesn’t hold your camera steady.

  • DragonFlyer

    DragonFlyer

    O – how absolutely timely Byron! My most urgent ‘need to acquire’ piece of equipment right now is a new tripod!!!
    The one I have is what I was originally sold as a ‘decent average’ sort of tripod that was not too expensive (which is always an issue!) – a Velbon something-or-other. Well, though I’ve used it to death for about a year and a half, it most definitely no longer (if it ever was) is ‘good enough’ and IS most decidedly ‘average’.

  • Mel Brackstone.com

    Mel Brackstone...

    This is great, Byron, I agree with everything you’ve put here, I LOVE the pistol grip head, and loathe the ball head (but it packs better for travelling). I try to preach the “get the good quality tripod” thing all the time, but my students seem to ignore me and buy the cheaper, lightweight ones more often than not. Only after trying to use them outside do they discover how useless they are….lets hope that this helps people make some right decisions….

    The other thing I’d mention is do NOT get one with a wind up centre pole, and generally do not use the tripod with the centre pole extended any way…..cos it makes it too unstable. Look for one with a hook or similar so you can add a weight to keep it still in wind….

  • BYRON:

    Yeah, do not get the wind up centre pole – they never ever lock properly. Thanx I will edit that bit in.

    Yeah, I love it when noobs buy lightweight tripods. When I use mine, my camera stays permanently attached [and locked] to the head and I sling the tripod over my shoulder when walking about. You want a strong solid tripod for this type of use.

    Also… quick release locking clamps always wear-out and fail. Always get screw-type locking clamps.

  • BYRON:

    Journal edited to include your suggestions, thanx Mel.

  • Virginia McGowan

    Virginia McGowan

    ooh I’m a noob! I’m a noob! sigh…..LOL!! always wanted a title !! ((() thanks for this info!

  • BYRON:

    I have a tripod with a geared centre column too [but let’s just keep that between you and me, ok?]

    I haven’t used it since I bought the Manfrotto.

  • Marjolein Katsma

    Marjolein Katsma

    Thanks, this is a really useful overview.

    Of course, like you say, it all depends on your purpose! I very recently bought a lightweight tripod because I wanted one for some things (like architecture shots and posed portraits (not studio, I don’t do that), and I’m never using my old tripod precisely because it’s just too heave to carry along. Of course, having essentially no budget at all, cost was also a factor (a nice carbon tripod that weighed about the same but cost 800% of the one I got was very definitely out…)

    I bought a National Geographic tripod (by Manfrotto): the last one shown on this page (bought locally, I just searched for an online description) and I must say I’m very happy with it. It’s small lightweight and compact enough that I might even take it along when traveling (when I always have to carry my own luggage!) but for city shoots where I carry only the camera, an extra lens and spare battery (apart from stuff like money and ID), it’s light enough for me for hiking around for several hours. And it’s perfectly stable enough for this type of photography.

    There’s absolutely no way I would have bought a non-lightweight tripod – not because I’m a noob, but because I have one and don’t use it because it’s too heavy for me to carry around, let alone take on a trip! It’s just a matter of what you use a tripod for. My old heavy one is good enough for studio work – except I don’t do studio work. And when I’m out hiking, I don’t take a tripod anyway (even though it might come in handy at times – on a hiking day I’m hiking first, and photographing second).

  • BYRON:

    yeah Marjolein, if you are into hiking you need to go with a light-weight carbon fibre or aluminium tripod. Good materials and good construction is the key, I guess.

  • Jan Timmons

    Jan Timmons

    Great work, Byron. We have two Manfrotto tripods (one for use at home/studio, and one for hiking), and I loathe that Ball Joint / Ball Lock Head. But the pistol grip adds more weight for hiking. Assume you’ll add this to the alphabetized Tutorials Library forum!

  • BYRON:

    ooh, forgot to add it to the Library…. off I go now!

  • BYRON:

    done!

  • Kymie

    Kymie

    I just got a new tripod (heavier lens now) and after looking at the above photos of what it can do ohhh I am so going to have a good session with it today WOW. Love reading your tutorials :-)

  • BYRON:

    Thanx Kymie.

    What tripod did you buy?

  • Ben Herman

    Ben Herman

    you
    did
    good

    cheers!

  • BYRON:

    heh
    heh
    heh,

    thanx Ben!

  • Richard G Witham

    Richard G Witham

    Wow: Thanks for all the great information here Byron. I have the Trekker MK3, and it’s been my favorite. I’m in the market for a new ball head now, and this information is very useful to me.
    Thanks again,
    Richard

  • BYRON:

    You’re welcome Richard.

    Gotta love that Trekker MK3, huh.?

  • Naia

    Naia

    I just lean my camera against the nearest wall, but y’all can tell that mmm.
    some of those small desktop bendy doovies can’t handle any weight at all, sadly, only good for puny point and shoot.
    the trekker looks ULTIMATE, seeeeriously very cool
    cheers fine info

  • BYRON:

    you can get a very chunk Gorilla Pod for bigger cameras, its around $240AUS, but obviously it aint going to be super duper stable.

    Yeah the Trekker MK3 is pretty sexy!

  • eoconnor

    eoconnor

    wonderful info I am looking to get a good tripod som this is timely !LIZ

  • BYRON:

    It is always worth spending some good money to get a good tripod – a quailty ’pod will last you the rest of your life!

  • Kymie

    Kymie

    I haven’t got the name in front of me (at work) BUT it looks like the Manfrotto and it is so much better that what I had, but I need to really read the instuction manual LOL

  • Linda Bianic

    Linda Bianic

    wow Byron,, these are fantastic tips, I am in the ;market for a tripod, and reading this will help greatly,, thanks heaps!!♥

  • BYRON:

    Glad to help, Linda.

    Let us all know which one you end up buying!

  • Dean Messenger

    Dean Messenger

    one brand not mentioned and may not be well kknown is redsnapper.
    ive been after a tripod for a couple of months now for my eos1000d ( with tamron 70-300 being my biggest lens) and i do alot od macro shots so wanted soemthing flexible too that allows the camera to be mounted close to the ground.
    my budgt was limited to say the least and after months of scouring ebay and reading a million and one reviews and either discarding the tripod as to flimsy, not having the features i wanted or being to expensive for my i came across redsnapper tripods. hunted around for various reviews expecting further disappoinment only to be surprised at what i read. superb quality, well built, full featured , can hold upto 8-10kg etc. I thought ok but waht about price its bound to be out of my range as they were compared to some manfrottos and velbons and beat both hands down.
    imagine my suprise when this christmas redsnapper did ( and are still doing a special promotion on 2 of there tripods where they are including the 3 way head for an amazing £49.95.. so i put in my purchase and its on its way to me as we speak. will update once i have it and played with it but so far looks promising.
    you can find more info here
    http://www.redsnapperuk.com/camera-accessories/...

    the difference between the RS-283 and RS284 is simply weight and height. the 283 is slightly heavier and longer when folded and extends slightly higher. both come with the same 3 way head and are almost identically specced.
    if anyone else has the redsnapper would be nice to hear there thoughts

  • rodeorose

    rodeorose

    Great to see this shared in one place so generously.

  • Corri Gryting Gutzman

    Corri Gryting ...

    Thank you Byron.
    This will help a lot.
    I especially needed an explanation of the head types, and I see from your illustrations what I need to look for. Thanks again.

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