They are usually sitting at the entrances of the large mosques, waiting for customers – the perfume seller. Also they are often to be found at the Beyazıt Square in one of the old quarters of Istanbul. Opposite to the portal of the university the 65 years old Ibrahim has his main place at the inner yard of the old Ottoman Beyazıt Mosque, which was built in the early 16th century. Ibrahim offers strongly sweet smelling perfumes and oils in small scent-bottles, which he keeps in a portable glassbox to male mosque visitors.

Muslim men like to use perfume when visiting the mosques, especially for the friday noontime prayer. Ibrahim holds different sorts ready, from rose water to amber and he is giving to each prospective customer a small sample on the wrist.

Waiting for customers from the morning to the evening, he is every time ready to have a small talk. For this he order Black Tea (Cay) from the nearby teegarden. Beside different perfumes Ibrahim sells also Tespih, the prayer chains with 33 or 99 pearls, which are used at the end of the prayer or with meditation practice like Zikr.

Ibrahim seems satisfied with his life, but selling is not always easy, because he is not the only perfume dealer at Beyazıt Mosque. Sometimes it comes to small vivacious disputes with his competitors, but afterwards they are usually again friends, he says, while turning the tulip glass with black tea in his hand.

The Beyazıt Mosque and a complex with madrassa (Islamic Theology Highschool), hospital, hamam (bath), caravanserai and a soup kitchen for poor people was built under the reign of Ottoman Sultan Beyazid II. (1481-1512). The buildings were completed in the year 1506. Beyazid II. is buried in a tomb near the mosque.

Sultan Beyazid II. was the son of Fatih Sultan Mehmet, the conquerer of Constantinople 1453. Quarrels with his brother Cem and war with the Safavid Shah Ismail of Persia belongs to his reign as well as that he saved many muslim arabs and jewish people from the Spanish Inquisition in 1492.

1512 followed his son Yavuz Sultan Selim on the Ottoman Throne, who became Caliph after his troups conquered Egypt and some arabic countries with the holy cities Mecca and Medina. The Beyazıt Mosque, located in the centre of Istanbul’s old bazaar quarter is still in use, it has a wonderful decoration inside and a great silent atmosphere.

Beside Beyazıt Mosque every day a second hand market take place. Men are selling watches, prayer chains and used photo cameras. And of course it is a good location to meet friends and share news.

The passage to the old book seller bazaar beside the complex of Ottoman Beyazıt Mosque is sometimes a busy place and sometimes a quiet place. Near to the tea garden in the shadow of the historical building from the early 16th century and wonderful chestnut trees, artists and second hand seller are waiting for customers. It is one of my favorite places in Istanbul.

© Photos and writing by Jens Helmstedt

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