The threatening thunder clouds quickly gathered, turning the sky an ominous grey. Late afternoon and timely, the tropical downpour descended, washing the streets of people, huddling them into doorways, others taking refuge in old tea shops where smoke billowed out from under the pouring zinc roofs.
The light grew dimmer and shop lights were soon reflections on the rain filled street where garbage clogged up drains and gutters unable to swallow the gushing flow of the rainstorm.

I was in Kuching in the Malaysian state of Sarawak on the island of Borneo.
I had just arrived from Johor Bharu in West Malaysia and with no pre booked arrangements still had the task ahead of finding a bed for the night.. When the rains did subside I dashed off ankle deep through lukewarm puddles and splashes and got a comfortable room at a somewhat decaying but very welcoming Rest House .

Later I found my way to Kuching’s Waterfront, the great feature and focal point of the city, where at sunset, people meet, stroll and linger on a long sweeping esplanade, beautifully landscaped and dotted with seating benches ,food stalls and restaurants. I sat there soaking up the unwinding properties and visual delights of the surroundings and as the river stilled, reflections grew longer and the calm evening faded on into dusk.
In the half light Sampans, (water taxis) lazily plied to and fro across the river serenely gliding along through the ever increasing shadows of the warm night.
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Kuching lies on the river Sungai and is the capital of Sarawak, the largest state in Malaysia occupying about 1/3 of the island of Borneo.
A short 1 hour 40 flight from Singapore takes one to this mystical and mysterious land, the name Borneo, for many, conjures up images of untamed jungles and strange unique indigenous peoples.

Next morning I set off to explore more of the city. The capital has a population of around 450,000 which is predominantly Chinese and Malay with other ethnic groups including Bidayuh and Ibans.
I began along the main bazaar, a great place to browse where rows of handicraft shops are crammed high with antiques and curios, colourful textiles and tantalizing wood carvings.

Kuching means cat in Malay and there are numerous cat statues dotted around the city some reaching a height of 12 feet or more. Other impressive landmarks apart from the modern towering white Hilton at the waters edge, are the Kuching mosque with It’s golden cupolas gleaming in the sun and the Astana palace on the north bank of the river.

Back off the waterfront and through the street of Jalan Padungan where the pace slips back some decades and where old men sip tea on marble top tables within the cool whitewashed walls of traditional Chinese shophouses.
These old weathered shuttered buildings were constructed around the 1920’s and 30’s during Malaysia’s rubber boom. Then on to Jalan Carpenter with it’s dimly lit coffee shops, tailors and ornate temples.

The streets around the bus station bustled with the frenzied banter of vendors, the pungent aroma of hawker food hung thick in the air, tapping pavement cobblers beat out their trade and bicycle menders with tyre tubes spread heedlessly over the footpath were all vivid reminders that one was very much in the heart of Asia.

Sarawak’s famous traditional Longhouses are a must see and with an organised tour I set off to see one of the oldest at Annah Rais some 20 miles to the south.
I was joined in the mini bus by Rob and Karen, a chirpy middle aged Australian couple and we set adventurously on a smooth undulating road into the jungle clad hills.

These Longhouses are a unique structure erected on stilts where the entire population live under one roof with separate rooms leasing on to a communal veranda made of lengthy strips of bamboo. This in itself is akin to the village street. The whole concept is based around a compact communal lifestyle with emphasis on harmony and self sufficiency.
However we did see reminders of a more sinister past when we entered a hut where headhunting rituals had once been performed, and skulls of the ill fated still hung from above in bamboo baskets. Heady stuff! as is the Tuak, a locally made rice wine with a laden volume which is usually complimentary on all Longhouse tours.

On the way back to Kuching our congenial guide Hassan took us to see the Orang Utan at the Semengoh Rehabilitation Centre where young and orphaned Orangs are nurtured in this semi wild reserve. The famed ‘Wild Man of Borneo’ was quite sedate and almost oblivious to our gaping gawks and clicking cameras as he got on with his banana basket breakfast.
A short time later we pulled in at a roadside shop and restaurant.
Here the four of us decided to dine and amidst great snigger and laughter we sampled from the menu among other things ‘Monyet Punya’ which translates ‘Monkey’s got one’- Well! you may never look at a monkey the same way again!!

In the cool of that evening I sat in the James Brooke Inn just beside the Tua Pek Kong Chinese temple where hoards of worshippers gathered below countless crimson red lanterns set against the backdrop of a glorious pink sunset.
Yong couples came and sat together as a nearby fountain sprayed upward in splendid illumination. A Sting CD played out from behind the bar and when the right track came along I was lost in Fields of Gold!.

I awoke to a beautiful sunny morning and with beach thoughts on my mind I had intentions of travelling to the north to visit the Santubong peninsula and the Damai beach Resort.
My bus left around midday ,a local crammed and stuffy ride ensued but soon the air got fresher as passengers were dispersed and we left the suburbs behind passing through roundabouts as big and green as cricket pitches and speeding along beautifully manicured roadside verges scented with the fragrance of small colourful blossoming trees.

Looking ahead one could see Mount Santubong , a high imposing rock rising more than 800 metres from the sea. At Damai I made my entrance through the grounds of the Holiday Inn onto the bright white sands of Damai beach.

I couldn’t say that I chilled out here as it was boiling hot but after a dip in the waters of the South China sea I took refuge in the shade of the overhanging palms and let a funnelling cool breeze drift like ice over my hot skin.
From here I walked over to the nearby Sarawak Cultural Village. This is a very popular tourist destination. A living museum introducing all aspects of local culture set on a sprawling 17 acre site with live performances from the various ethnic groups.

Returning to the Holiday Inn I booked a place on the shuttle bus for my return to Kuching.
and sat and waited in the luxurious lobby. Suddenly the competitors of what turned out to be a Fun Jungle Run began to arrive outside. With race completed and gasping heads hung low, dripping sweat to their toes, some were almost at resuscitation point. Laid on for these middle aged plus energetic enthusiasts was a copious supply of a locally mixed shandy.
In the sweltering heat I was unable to resist and helped myself with no remarks passed to a share of the local refreshment. Then it was back to town, quick shower, change and off to find a new location to dine.

I boarded a Sampan with it’s quaint little tilley lamp hanging from the roof .The evening was coming down like a warm heavy blanket as we drifted slowly into the darkness and onto to the far riverbank. Here I sampled another of the local specialities, Pomfret fish and Sambal prawns, deliciously cooked and presented and with no “monkeying” about this time, I was totally immersed in gourmet satisfaction.

The following morning I crossed the Sungai once more to see Fort Margheita, a small castle like white fort named after Charles Brooke wife Ranee Margaret, it’s ramparts offering a fine vista out over the river and beyond.
Brooke was the famous White Rajah of Sarawak who came to fame here having quelled a revolt and ugly guerrilla war in 1839.

That evening , small world that it is, I encountered once more my two Aussie fellow travelers and shared a few beers and stories together.

There is much to see in Sarawak but my time was short. I had to return to Johor to pick up on previously made plans and then on to Singapore. But the short sojourn was well worth it.
I really enjoyed Kuching, laid back ,hassle free and pleasant and the Tuak is not bad either!