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♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ series . Senza una Donna . Brown Sugar Story. Tribute to Helmut Newton . F** Views (3678). Favs (14) Muchas gracias ! Danke Schön ! Dziękuję, Ole!  by © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D
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♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ series . Senza una Donna . Brown Sugar Story. Tribute to Helmut Newton . F** Views (3678). Favs (14) Muchas gracias ! Danke Schön ! Dziękuję, Ole! by 


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Senza Una Donna . Tribute to Helmut Newton.
“Miami Beach, Florida” .
Born in Berlin in 1920 to a wealthy Jewish family, Helmut Newton was a delicate child prone to fainting. When he was around 8 years old his brother began showing him the ‘gutter’ of Berlin, a red light district which was inhabited by prostitutes like the ‘Red Erna’, who wore thigh boots and carried a whip. Helmut remembers, “my eyes were poppin’ out of my head.” But the Newtons lived at the other end of the social scale, vacationing at posh European spas and hotels that would later become his backdrops. At 12 he saved his money to purchase his first camera at a five-and-dime. The first roll of film he shot was at an underground subway. The whole role came back black except for the one image he shot above ground. A few years later he decided to travel abroad and become a famous photo reporter. “In 1936 I arranged to have myself thrown out of school as a hopeless pupil,” says Helmut. With the help of his mother Helmut began working as an apprentice for Else Simon, a female fashion-and-portrait photographer who operated a studio under the name of Yva. His father’s prophetic response to the chosen path was, “My boy, you’ll end up on the gutter.”

His first job as an assistant lasted for two years and was abruptly ended in 1938 when the Nazis stepped up their attack on the Jews. Yva was forced to close her studio, and later died in a concentration camp. Helmut fled Germany to Singapore and worked as a photojournalist for the ‘Singapore Strait Times’. “The next few years had little to do with photography; I was busy keeping my head above water and trying to avoid starvation. I rarely gave the paper the kind of photos they were hoping for,” he recalls.

In the early 1940’s Helmut moved to Australia, where he enlisted in the Australian Army and served for five years. He then moved to Melbourne, opened a studio and was determined to make a living as a photographer. Meanwhile, his family had fled to South America. Helmut would meet an Australian actress named June Browne, whom he’d marry. He would take any job that he could get doing wedding photos, baby books, and mail-order catalog assignments. In 1952 he began working for Australian Vogue, which led to a short-term move to London in 1957. “My years in Australia were wonderful. I met June, we married, but photographically, much as I loved this country and it’s people, it did not form me as a photographer nor did my work there amount to anything.” London would be “equally sterile and unproductive. The moment I hit Paris I knew this was it for living and taking photographs. The life was in the streets, in cafes, restaurants. Beautiful women seemed to be everywhere.”

In the late 1950’s he found work at ‘Jardin des Modes’ and in 1961 began a long-running and fruitful association with French Vogue which would last until 1983. During this period he would also work for Elle, Marie Claire, Queen, Nova, Playboy, Stern,US and Italian Vogue.

In 1971 while in New York for a Vogue assignment, Helmut suffered a major heart-attack which would change his life and transform his photography. With the encouragement from his wife June, Helmut pursued overtly sexual themes in his photos, deriving elements from his own history to instill a menacing edge to his works. This edge brought him to the forefront of fashion photography and possibly made him the most influential figure in his field during the 1970’s. Women were pictured bolder and more aggressive, usually in disquieting situations, photographed in a a realistic reportage style. While the bulk of his models were depicted as members of the social elite, they would be ‘caught’ in seedy environments exploring kinky fantasies with prostitutes and cross-dressers. And then alternating this juxtaposition showing members from the margins of society engaged in fetish driven meetings with the social elite, surrounded by sumptuous hotels and ancient midnight streets, all of them saturated with decadence, luxury, and privilege. While American Vogue would only published distilled version of this period, his most risqué photos were accepted by European magazines. “The term ‘political correctness’ has always appalled me, reminding me of Orwell’s ‘thought police’ and fascist regimes,” he comments on censorship in America.

Helmut published his first book ‘White Women’ in 1976, which featured the most radical selections from this period. Despite negative American reviews it sold some 1500 copies in a week there. ‘The Eyes of Laura Mars’ was a Hollywood film inspired by the photos by Helmut Newton. Ironically the photos he contributed to the film were not satisfactory. The director wanted scenes of blood and corpses which were of no interest to Helmut. He defended his fashion photos as erotic rather than violent.

Since 1976, he’s received a number of awards, including the Tokyo Art Directors’ Club Prize; American Institute of Graphic Arts awards; and Germany’s Kodak Award for photographic books. In 1989 he was named ‘Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres’ by the French Minister of Culture, and in 1992 he was awarded the ‘Grosses Bundesverdienstkreuz’ by the Federal Republic of Germany and the ‘Chevalier des Arts, Lettres et Science’ by Monaco. Life magazine gave him the ‘Life Legend Award for Lifetime Achievement in Magazine Photography’ in 1999. Recently Taschen publishing and designer Philippe Starck teamed together to create 20×28 inch, 66-pound, 480-page monolith of Helmut’s work entitled ‘Sumo’. Currently offered at $1,500, the collection is issued in a limited edition of 10,000 copies worldwide, numbered, signed by Newton, and is accompanied with it’s own specially designed table.

Since 1981 Helmut and his wife June has resided in Monte Carlo. At the age of 79, he continues working for advertising clients and publications, including Vogue and Vanity Fair.

Countless essays have attempted to deconstruct the elaborate and heavily coded world depicted in his photographs. His photos are tough, polished, aggressive, cold, and disconcerting. They reflect an internal world that generates a sense of unease. He achieves a delicate and difficult balance between flattery and caricature. There’s a lot going on in his narrative photos. “What I find interesting is working in a society with certain taboos – and fashion photography is about that kind of society”, says Newton. “To have taboos, then to get around them – that’s interesting.” The ironic thing is that he’s made taboos more acceptable, at least to some segments of the population.

In many ways Helmut mocks the fashion industry as he strengthens it. He blatantly exposes a side of it that is difficult to detect or absent in other fashion photography. Take for example one of his better known works ‘Sie kommen!’ (‘Here They Come!’), which copies are sold for more than $55,000. It is a two part image, one image depicts the models clothed and the other they are in the exact same position, but nude. In a strange way the nude depiction lacks much of the sexuality you’d expect, due to aggressive posturing. Their nudity has become dress, they are in essence fashion warriors. They say, ‘Look, but don’t touch. Look, we are coming… but not for you.’ They send the message, as with fashion, ‘Look and die with desire.’ While this may not be the desire of the beholder, it is definitely that of the fashion wearer.

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I first got interested in photography when I was about 6 years old, about 53 years ago. I remember when father has bought me my first camera Zorki 4.
Russian Leica copy.


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Comments

  • Petehamilton
    Petehamiltonabout 4 years ago

    Beautiful image, beautiful lady and great story! Great work here!

  • Thank you so much !!! so appreciated and so glad .Many many thanks :x xoxoxoxoxo Ole!!!!! Andrew (Brown Sugar) :d

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • Deborah Lazarus
    Deborah Lazarusabout 4 years ago

    Andrew,
    This is YOU AT YOUR BEST! Brilliant and truly fascinating story. Isn’t wild how some of the most brilliant minds of our time have managed to get themselves thrown out of school? Anyway, I enjoyed the wonderful story. This is a beautiful lady, and I applaude my very favorite photographer on this site….YOU!!! Fantastic piece here. xxxxooxxxx

  • Oh!!!!! wow!!!!! Dear Debi !!!!! so fantastic recension thank You sooooomuch . Your complimants warms me deeply !! Your Andrew with great greetings and very…very…very..happy :)……!!!!!!!!!! cheers !!!!!!! Ole!!!!!!!

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • Al Bourassa
    Al Bourassaabout 4 years ago

    Great shot and wonderful tribute to an avant-garde photographer.

  • Dear AL xxx:) so appreciated and grateful xxx:) Your Andrew with cheers :)

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • Shulie1
    Shulie1about 4 years ago

    Beautiful portrait – and thank you so much for the history – I had never heard of Helmut Newton

  • Antonello Incagnone "incant"
    Antonello Inca...about 4 years ago

  • Mille grazie Antonello !!!! cordialissimi saluti anche abracio forte com amicitia Tuo Andrea . Ciao …cioo .. Sono molto felice di nostro bello contacto xxxx:)

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • myrbpix
    myrbpixabout 4 years ago

    Wow! What a beautiful shot of gorgeous lady!!! :o)

  • M xxx:) thank you soooooooooooo m…:d

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • kutayk
    kutaykabout 4 years ago

    Congrats on your feature mate! very well-deserved!

  • How nice thank so much xxx:…. see you again !!!! many many thanks :)

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • vaggypar
    vaggyparabout 4 years ago

    Great Shot..!!

  • So happy thank you my mate :D

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • zdepe
    zdepeabout 4 years ago

    beautiful woman, lovely portrat..

  • So appreciate and so glad xxx:) Hvala…hvala….lepo x:)

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

  • artisandelimage
    artisandelimageabout 4 years ago

    please add the location in the description area to be accepted in the All Around Florida !
    thank you !
    my best, your host (francis).

  • Ok!!!! cheers :)

    – © Andrzej Goszcz,M.D. Ph.D

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