When the big waves would come, we’d go, as a group, out the back, beyond the break, and wait for the 20 footers. Then, all together we’d body surf, down the front and drop off into the wave. There is a long time before the body starts to float and then you can swim up to light and air. We’d all come to shore, alone, with distant looks and no urgency to start over.
Karin Taylor, 4 months ago
ah, know the feeling :)
beautifully put AffectMachine…
takes me back to those salty sunny days
when we had hot chippies for lunch after a big morning at the beach :)