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Swimming at Evans Head in the 60s

When the big waves would come, we’d go, as a group, out the back, beyond the break, and wait for the 20 footers. Then, all together we’d body surf, down the front and drop off into the wave. There is a long time before the body starts to float and then you can swim up to light and air. We’d all come to shore, alone, with distant looks and no urgency to start over.

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Swimming at Evans Head in the 60s by 


Comments

  • © Karin  Taylor
    © Karin Taylorover 6 years ago

    ah, know the feeling :)
    beautifully put AffectMachine…
    takes me back to those salty sunny days
    when we had hot chippies for lunch after a big morning at the beach :)

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